Since the 1970s the Bergerac Appellation has been revitalised and has now established an identity, character and style of its own. As elsewhere this has been led by the emergence of a younger generation of winemakers such as Guy Cuisset (and now his sons), and to some extent also by the arrival of foreigners (Hugh Ryman from the UK and various flying winemakers from the southern hemisphere). There are a number of British-owned and run vineyards in the area.
If you go to Monestier, you will look in vain for a Chateau – there are the remains of a wall of a house which once stood on the site. The winery is in a modern barn – insulated from the sun and heat, and easy to keep clean. There is no fancy tasting room (or caveau) – although your welcome in the cellars will be warm and informative. (always check first to ensure that they are not all out in the vines. some of which are a few kilometres away.
Grinou’s vineyards are on the slopes and hills above the river valley (Dordogne) – allowing for good drainage and exposure to the sun – so important in producing ripe grapes for wine. When we first met, we found he was one of the first to pick his grapes for white wine at night, so that they avoided the heat and could be transported to the cellars to arrive as fresh and fruity as possible. Now he not only does that but he also immediately blankets the fresh grape juice in inert gas to stop oxidation and retain fruit character and freshness as much as possible.
He believes that the trend is towards concentrating the flavours of wine to produce more sensation on the palate, whilst still retaining the essential character of the grape.
In recent years the Chateau has pioneered the move towards organic wines and environmentally-friendly practices in all aspects of vineyard management. The focus is on “terroir” rather than classication and reinforces the point that the winemaker and his/her domaine and practices are a key determinant of wine quality.
The red wines are certainly more concentrated than many Bergerac reds, with the Réserve red being 100% merlot aged in new oak, and the GRAND VIN (also Merlot) being specifically vinified for ageing.
Chateau Grinou produces red and white wines (Tradition and Cuvée Réserve wines which are vinified and/or aged in oak), as well as the sweeter Côtes de Bergerac and sweet Saussignac AC wines.
I look forward to visiting Chateau Grinou every year – I know I will learn something new and be delighted with the development of Guy’s wines.
South of the Dordogne river. south-west of the town of Bergerac (24 Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine) and just to the east of the border with Aquitaine, Chateau Grinou is situated in the hamlet of MONESTIER. When his father gave up the vineyard Guy and his brother both inherited half of the land, caves and equipment. Unlike his father before and his brother then, Guy decided not to continue to sell wines in bulk to one of the local cooperatives but instead to develop his own domaine and make a name for himself and his wines. Previously he was an expert in international wine law, but then relished the prospect of getting to grips with a vineyard in an area which at that time was dominated by the co-operatives and lived under the shadow of neighbouring Bordeaux.
CONTACT –
Guy et Catherine CUISSET, Chateau Grinou, 24240 Monestier
Tel: (F)05 53 58 46 63;
In the UK a selection of Chateau Grinou wines are available from:-
- Corney and Barrow (www.corney-barrow.co.uk)
- Vintage Roots (www.vintageroots.co.uk)
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