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As northern Europe settles into an unwelcome late autumn/early winter, memories of a balmy French summer  fade. Which is why a missive from the Aveyron is so welcome – evoking some of the magic of the region – and making the prospect of a winter break in the warmer climes of the Lot Valley almost irresistible especially with a tempting special offer at Sweet French Cottages self-catering neat Entraygues-sur-Truyere:-

SPECIAL HOLIDAY OFFER-BOOK A COTTAGE BY 1 DECEMBER 2009 FOR CHRISTMAS OR NEW YEAR’S 2009 & RECEIVE 15% DISCOUNT

Rain Heron, the Americal owner of the cottages writes:-

Autumn has arrived. The decades-old chestnut trees in the ancient forests are dropping their huge copper-colored leaves, followed dutifully by their fruit, the spiky chestnut. In just a few days time, the almost-fluorescent lime green of the chestnut husks will fade into a fantastic shade of gold sienna, making the fallen chestnuts resemble a huge colony of sea urchins. In contrast, the shiny, smooth dark chestnut brown of the nuts will become strewn about on the forest floor and along the country roads, making them quite easy to harvest. The acorns follow suit, although the forest animals, including the red squirrels like the original ‘Squirrel Nutkin’ of Beatrix Potter fame, seem to scavenge them with great gusto.

The fall weather is truly heavenly in the microclimate that we enjoy near the Lot River in the Lot Valley with its crisp, chilly mornings giving way to warm, sunny days reaching up to 80º F in the afternoon sun. The sun becomes lower in the sky at this time of year and the cooler evenings are perfect for pulling on your favorite jumper and gathering around the fireplace with the smell of fragrant woods on the fire (I also like to throw a handful of rosemary in the flame for an extraordinaire, herbal perfume). You can also roast chestnuts right in the open fire with one of the chestnut pans with their heavy perforated bottoms, which gives off a heavenly and distinct aroma.

The change in season here is clockwork. The trees begin turning cheerful shades of yellow, gold and orange right on cue. The garden follows suit with the regional harvest of nuts including walnuts and hazelnuts with the delightful fruits of late summer becoming ripe for the picking, such as figs, apples and pears followed closely by the most gorgeous eating grapes at all the market stands. With the advent of the season, the geraniums and roses are still in full bloom and the hydrangeas are stubbornly holding onto to their summer blooms, now turning the most gorgeous shade of burnished red and the palest of pinks.

The banks of the rivers are laden with freshly fallen heart-shaped birch leaves and the leaf bed is soft and colorful. The silhouettes of the birch trees — particularly the silver birches — are quite dramatic against the clarity of the fall skies. The rivers change from their summer greens to deeper shades of blue, contrasting beautifully with the still green hillsides.

This is my favorite time of year to go on long walks through the French countryside. I enjoy walking along country roads where the pavement looks inky and the crushed granite shines likes diamonds in the gravelly parts in the bright, crisp afternoon sun and the clouds billow effortlessly. The gentle autumn wind caresses my face and the sound of the rustling leaves captures my imagination. The vistas of the patchwork-colored pastures and vineyards and stone farmhouses along the river are postcard-perfect. I marvel at the way the autumnal light accentuates the myriad of colors, particularly late in the day when the landscape resembles the painting, “Chestnut Tree in Bloom” by Renoir. The late afternoons turn to sunsets that are softer and subtler, with their signature corals, pinks and lavenders unique to this time of year.

Once again, it is “Au revoir” to summer and “Bonjour” to autumn. Autumn is here in its full regalia and I, for one, find it an unforgettable, comfortable and insightful time of year.

More details on Sweet French Cottages

Part of our series featuring places to stay and explore for a weekend or longer with recommendations on where to stay, eat, visit etc – recommendations from personal knowledge of people who know the local area well.

Why Entraygues-sur-Truyere? Entraygues-sur-Truyere is a picturesque riverside village, where two rivers meet, the Lot River and the Truyere.  Entraygues was founded in the 10th century and its fortified castle was built between 1278-1290.  Entraygues is located in an area with 10 of the, “The Most Beautiful Villages in France,” more than any othe region! (and rightly so! (Ed))

Sweet French Cottages

Where to stay: Sweet French Cottages,enchanting stone cottages for rent in the Lot Valley Southwest France

SPECIAL HOLIDAY OFFER-BOOK A COTTAGE BY 1 DECEMBER 2009 FOR CHRISTMAS OR NEW YEAR’S 2009 & RECEIVE 15% DISCOUNT

Nearest Town: Entraygues-sur-Truyere, 12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees

Where to eat (recommended by Raine Heron of Sweet French Cottages): Le Mejanessere, a beautiful rustic restaurant with stunning views. Also a vineyard and an organic farm.  Food is farm fresh and set menus often feature roasted pig, sausage in walnut oil, potatoes with wild mushrooms, green salad with edible flowers and herbs and dessert.  Delicious bread baked on premises.  Wonderful apéritif menu and local wines from vineyard.  Mostly open during high season (some mid season hours).

Where to eat (gourmet): Auberge du Fel.  Delicious, fresh, often regional food beautifully presented.  The Executive Chef, Mme Elisabeth Albespy, is the Mayor’s wife and the Sous Chef is their son, Mathieu.  The Mayor is often on hand to serve up their traditional as well as inventive dishes, including a vegetarian prix fixe menu.

Where to eat (value for money): La Casa.  Oven-fired thin crust pizza, pasta dishes and fresh salads.  Make your own pizza (our favourite is goat cheese, chestnuts and fresh tomatoes) or try the duck and Roquefort pizza, among many others on the menu.  Good table wine and tasty desserts.

Local food: Aubrac beef, duck, lamb, trout, foie gras, charcuterie, aligot (whipped potatoes with cheese), truffade, cabecou, fouace, honey, walnut oil, fresh chestnuts as well as chestnut vinegar, flour and chestnut butter, farcous, wild mushrooms

Local wine: Entraygues– Le Fel wine, which has recently had a come uppance when one of our Entraygues wines made it s way onto the menu at Michel Bras, a regional restaurant which ranks one of the top ten restaurants in the world.  There are also several local aperitifs including “Pelou,” consisting of chestnut liqueur and local white wine and “Rascalou,” consisting of walnut liqueur and local white wine.  Both are wonderful.

Local markets: Farmer’s Markets are held every Friday morning throughout the year.  In high season, there are two Farmer’s Markets, on both Tuesday and Friday mornings, and a local producer’s market (Marche des Producteurs de Pays) on Wednesday evenings with banquet style dining and live music.  All of the markets are held in the village square or along the river in Entraygues.

Must see: Poterie du Don, a museum-quality contemporary ceramic center in an architecturally-significant building.  Ceramics include traditional salt glaze tableware and ceramic creations by the gallery owner, Suzy Atkins, to ceramic sculpture and flatworks by many well-known European ceramic artists.

A bit of culture?: Since the  area is unspoiled and rather timeless, you definitely feel immersed in the French culture on a daily basis, particularly if you frequent the butcher, the baker, Farmer’s Market and mill around the villages.  With regard to museums, one that stands out is the Musee Fenaille in Rodez with the oldest and largest collection of statues-menhirs in France (think small, carved Stone Henge).

Shopping?: There are charming shops in Entraygues, as well as many lovely shops and cafes on pedestrian-only streets in the old town section of nearby Aurillac.

Somewhere for a walk? – There are 10 “Petites Randonrres” (small walking paths) in Entraygues totaling more than 100 km.  There are also longer walks, some taking 2-3 days, and more than 250 km of trails in the area.  There is also a 30-45 minute historic walk through the medieval streets of Entraygues, guided by sign posts.

Something for the kids? – There is kayaing, canoeing, river rafting and horseback riding in Entraygues, as well as several animal parks and farms open to the public in surrounding areas.  Also, the Micropolis (insect) museum and the Millau Viaduc (the highest bridge in the world) is not far from us.

Getting there?:– Driving across France is always a scenic pleasure.  By air, our nearest airport is Rodez-Marcillac Airport (only a short 1-hour flight from Paris) Ryanair fly from Stansted to Rodez.

Other airports in the area include Toulouse International Airport, Montpellier Airport and Limoges Airport.  Trains arrive at either Aurillac or Rodez stations

Getting around:– Buses and taxis are availabie in town, and the area is frequented by cyclists (including the Tour de France!).  There are train stations in both Aurillac and Rodez – and tickets direct from the UK can be booked through Rail Europe

When to come?:– There are festivals every weekend in mid and high seasons in Entraygues or nearby villages.  The better known festivals, however, are “Les Mediaevales” (Medieval Days) on 12 and 13 Sepetember 2009 featuring jugglers, musicians, medieval costumes, banquet-style lunch, wine, beer and several artisan booths. “Fete des Champignons” (Mushroom Festival) is held the last weekend in September and features folkloric museum, dancing, costumes, lunch and everything mushroom.  “Foire de la Chataigne” (Chestnut Fair) will be held on 24 and 25 October 2009 and is large festival with music, food, wine and everything chestnut.

For a longer stay?:– Take a day trip (and perhaps, stay one night) in Cahors or Gaillac or Cordes sur Ciel, or just take cat naps, go for walks down to the river or next to the local vineyards, through the historic villages, or just sit on the terrace while reading a good book and sipping wine, taking in the fresh air, views and sound of the flowing river.

Recommendations kindly supplied by Rain Heron at Sweet French Cottages

For more info on the local area see the local tourist office website

Sweet French Cottages

SPECIAL HOLIDAY OFFER-BOOK A COTTAGE BY 1 DECEMBER 2009 FOR CHRISTMAS OR NEW YEAR’S 2009 & RECEIVE 15% DISCOUNT

Two of the lesser-known wine appellations of Southwest are Marcillac AOC and Entraygues-et-Fel VDQS are in Aveyron departement (12, Midi-Pyrenees) in the Upper Lot Valley. One way of getting to know the region (and its wines) is by renting one of three charming 200+ year-old restored cottages nestled on the hillsides near the Lot River. These rental cottages offer beautiful interiors, lovely views and relaxing ambiance.All of the “Sweet French Cottages” are located in the area that boasts 10 of “The Most Beautiful Villages in France,” more than any other region so you can just imagine how beautiful it is!

Many historic sites, castles, forests, walking paths, hiking trails, wine tasting, restaurants, horseback riding, kayaking, canoeing and golf or just sit and enjoy the views! Gorgeous village of Entraygues-sur-Truyere offers full services and is only minutes away.

Sweet French Cottages in the Aveyron

All cottages are newly renovated to a high standard by the owner-designer, and are fully outfitted for self catering. Each has beautiful, comfortable interiors with antiques and quality furnishings. Many original features including stone exteriors, slate roofs, wood beam ceilings, fireplaces, handmade terracotta tile floors or pine floors. Delightful river, castle and forest views.

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One of our favourite discoveries has been the Upper Lot Valley, where Americans Rain Heron and Lance Odeja have a number of lovely holiday cottages in the captivating area around Entraygues-sur-Truyere ( 12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees). We last visited on a superb hot summers day in late June, so it was interesting to receive the following update from there, especially in the middle of the worst British winter in 20 years. The author, Rain Heron, charmingly evokes the promise of Spring in this beautiful area:- By Rain Heron, Cottage Owner Sweet French Cottages

Winter is on the wane. The fall of snow has become almost a distant memory and cold, wintry days are now gleefully interspersed with blue skies and sunshine. In recent weeks, some days here in the Lot Valley have reached up to 80 degrees Fahrenheit in the height of the afternoon sun! The change in weather stirs the soul and incites the garden with the promise of spring. My garden is already enthusiastic about the proposition. My leafless hydrangeas have the pledge of generous flowers adorning its branches; my roses have a concert of rosebuds waiting patiently along its otherwise gangly branches. My lilac bushes – one of my favorite springtime flowers – already hints at its heady perfume. Another scented beauty, my specimen magnolia tree, augurs in its lush pink tinged blossoms. My camellia is heavy with buds, and my narcissus and tulips have already broken ground and are busy rising to the impending occasion. Growing up in Southern California, I was nothing less than, “seasonally deprived.” Not that I was fully aware of my deficiency at the time. However, since moving to the Lot Valley in Southwest France a few years ago, I have discovered the depth of my seasonal impoverishment. I look forward to all the seasons with childlike wonder and relish the distinguishing characteristics of each one. There is certainly no going back now! I had planned to read at least ten good novels, write several letters and organize photo albums during the introspective winter months. Yet, now in only a few weeks, the winter shall be old news and the spring will be the new seasonal star in all of its budding glory. The Spring Equinox shall once again make its appearance and take the cyclical stage. Yet, I don’t want to shortchange winter before its formal conclusion. In my mind, our winters are the model winter, with just an occasional dusting of snow to decorate the tree boughs and to add sparkle and ambient light to an otherwise gray and shadowy landscape. I truly delight in the sculptural beauty of the leafless trees, when the color of the bark is front stage with its smudge-like colors of eggplant, chocolate, burgundy and orange. These colors are nothing less than transcendent while they comingle with the inky greens of the evergreens and incandescent lime green moss that paints the hillsides along the Lot Valley. In the wintertime, the Lot River is a snake that changes color like a chameleon…from russet at times of heavy rainfall to a plush or tropical green color on a sunny brisk day. The amplified sound of the rushing river from the melting snowfall of the Massif Central offers up a winter concerto. The stream just below us — a tributary leading to the Lot River — chimes in with its undertones, adding to the fullness of the fluid, watery music. So, for me, it is quite sad to see winter waning, quietly and softly bowing out and graciously introducing the renewal of spring. On the other temperate hand, spring is a tremendously restorative season that speaks of replenishment and good cheer, and holds a special place in my seasonally nascent heart.

For more info see Sweet French Cottages

Green and Blue, winners of Decanter’s Small Independent Wine Merchant of the Year Award 2008 stock two wines which are seldom seen in the UK – Entraygues et du Fel AC and Marcillac AC. These wines are really from deepest Southwest France coming from the upper Lot Valley and the Aveyron

2005 Laurent Mousset Entraygues et du Fel’ (£9.10) Like the wines of Marcillac, the dominant variety here is Fer Servadou although Laurent Mousset chooses to add some Cabernet Franc for a bit of added weight and texture.  It is a wine typical of the reds from the southwest corner which we love so dearly.  The red fruit is bright and zippy and although there is some rustic grip (these are not slick, glossy wines), they are essentially light and fairly soft.  These are wines to refresh body and soul and indeed, they used to be drunk instead of water (which sounds like a recipe for a far more entertaining day than those we spend sipping piously on Evian).   Although there is fabulous earth and stone flavours underlying the red cherry and raspberry fruit, this is not a wine to be studied with reverence, rather knocked back with gusto.

2006 Domaine du Cros Marcillac ‘Lo Sang del Pais’ (£8.75) Marcillac is rarely seen outside its own little part of SW France between Rodez and the beginnings of the Auvergne. It’s not because the wines can’t be good, but there’s just so little to go round – only eight independent winemakers exist and the number can’t expand because all the best sites (particularly the incredibly steep south-facing slopes with their dramatic terracotta coloured soil) are already taken.  It’s the combination of soil and the mansois grape that gives Marcillac it’s particular taste, a sort of wild, vibrant, leafy, raspberry and bramble fruit that’s fresh and moreish.

Philippe Teulier makes two styles of wine, his basic, traditional style (which this is) and a oaked version from older vines.  While we love both, the purity of the gamey fruit in this swung it for us on this occasion

South London’s Green & Blue won Independent Wine Merchant of the Year in the Under 12 staff category. The judges praised the tiny two-shop chain run by former Conran sommelier Kate Thal, for its attention to detail, noting the fact that ’staff will even print out a tasting note’ if the wine is for a gift!

Green & Blue Lordship Lane, 38 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich London SE22 8HJ T: 0208 693 9250 F: 0208 693 9260

Green & Blue Clapham, 20 – 26 Bedford Road, Clapham. London SW4 7HJ   T: 0207 498 9648 F: 0207 498 9649

Website: http://www.greenandbluewines.com

If you are ever lucky enough to get to the Aveyron, we can recommend some excellent cottages to rent owned by a couple of Californians – see wwww.frenchduck.com

Now here’s an opportunity to spend several months in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt parts of France next summer – near Entraygues-sur-Truyère (12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees) in the upper Lot Valley. The American owners of Sweet French Cottages are looking for some help in setting up and running their gites in return for board and lodging.

Lance and Rain would like to “hire” some young and able individuals – or possibly a couple — to come and live for free in France (room and board including most meals) for 3 months during the spring/summer 2009 in exchange for working with us.

We’re looking for individuals or a couple that can help us get our properties ready for high season 2009. From maintenance such as painting, staining, planting, gardening to cutting/stacking firewood and moving rocks to helping with dinners for our cottage guests, laundry, cleaning, etc.

We’re asking for 6 hours per day of work, 5 days per week. Some knowledge of French would be great, but is not entirely necessary.

I could be tempted myself, but may not qualify as “young and able”. Seriously though, you could pay good money to spend time in such a place – almost a “retreat” from the hustle and bustle of the modern world and a long way from the nearest MacDonalds. Wonderful landscapes, river valleys and natural splendour but with easy access to a charming little town with all the important facilities such as shops, cafés, banks etc good food and very drinkable local wines – and the owners are really “cool” in the nicest possible way – and in no way “typical Americans”.

For more info contact rain.heron@orange.fr

For more about these Sweet French Cottages see Sweet French Cottages