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| September 26, 2008 | ||
| 6:00 pm |
Now, I thought I knew Bergerac and its wines pretty well, having imported their wines from the earliest days of Allez Vins!, and numerous visits over the last 20 years or so. But truth be told, I probably know about a dozen vineyards in any detail, and I am a fan of the wines of the region which tend to be consistently good (with the exception of some cheap supermarket versions) and usually great value.
However, my knowledge and passion for the region is completely overshadowed by Phil Hargreaves and his new book The Wines of Bergerac. This is a comprehensive and authorative guide to the 13 appellations (including Montravel, Pecharmant, Rosette, Monbazillac and Saussignac)and to ove 90 producers, each of which has a full page full of details of location, opening times, the nature of the “terroir”, how the grapes are grown and how the wine is made - plus details of UK stockists, contact details and tasting notes!
This has clearly been a labour of love, as I cannot imagine that anyone could do justice to more than a couple of vineyards a day to produce this amount of reliable detail -as always I checked out his entries on domaines which I know well such as Chateau Grinou, Chateau Haut Garrigue and Chateau Beauportail, and the entries are spot on! I share his affection for the Merlot and Cabernet reds, Sauvignon and Semillon dry and sweeter whites. His secret has been his career as a linguist and wine merchant - but also his sheer enthusiasm for the wines of Bergerac.
“..my love affair with the Dordogne started some 40 years ago when I was a student in Perigueux in
1968 . A few years later, my late father-in-law introduced me to the wines of Cahors and Bergerac and the seed was sown for an interest in wines that would lead to twenty years in the wine trade and ultimately, this little book.
1 have personally visited the vast majority of the producers in this guide and wines from every
winernaker included have been tasted by myself and my tasting team, drawn from friends and
colleagues at the Hengate Wine School and the Premier Cru Wine Club, based in Beverley,
East Yorkshire. I have resisted the temptation to give wines a star rating as I recognise that
taste in wine is a very personal thing and it does not pay to be too dogmatic. However, I hope
the tasting comments will help you establish which wines will most appeal to you.
There’s plenty of background to the region and its wines in addition to the individual producers’ pages, which makes the book both readable and an indispensible guide to visiting the region and its vineyards - I will certainly be taking a copy with me on my next trip to the Dordogne!
For more info on Phil Hargreaves, Hengate Wine School and the book “The Wines of Bergerac” see www.hengatewineschool.co.uk
The official launch of new guide “The Wines of Bergerac” will take place on Friday 26 September at 6 p.m. at Beverley Arms Hotel, Beverley, East Yorkshire. Book signing and free Bergerac tasting - see www.hengatewineschool.co.uk
I am a great fan of the Lot département (46 Midi-Pyrenees), initially from wine-hunting around the town of Cahors, and more recently further upstream on the Rivers Lot and Célé, where the landscapes get even more enticing. A recent trip was greatly enhanced by having Helen Martin’s book Lot: Travels Through a Limestone Landscape in SouthWest France
It was her recommendation which led us to the stunning view at Reilhaguet (46 Lot) (see above) which she accurately describes as “the view to end all views, a roof of the world view, a heart-stopping, aching, yearning view” (about 25km north of Cahors just east of the N20).
But one of the undoubted joys of the region has to be its gastronomy and the richness of its markets, and with Helen’s permission we can share an extract from her chapter on “Food and Drink in the Lot”
Eating and drinking in the Lot is not so much gastronomy, it is more a way of life. Simple pleasures like early-morning mushrooming results in gastronomic treats at meal times.
The food used to revolve around the polyculture practised by the small propriétaires, less so today. But fruits are still bottled, geese are still stuffed, pigs are fattened, påtés are tinned, ducks are turned into hunks of confit, and yellow chickens, dotted with oil and butter and legs akimbo, are forced into ovens to emerge an hour or so later, tasting simply sensational. It is a day-in, day-out, year-long occupation. Tout es bou per sa sason ‘To everything there is a season’ takes on new meaning. ©Helen Martin
Helen Martin writes more about the Lot in her blog at http://lotbook.blogspot.com/
To read more about Food and Wine in the Lot see……… Read more on this…
The Montmartre vineyard in the heart of Paris is well-known, but the BK Wine Blog reports that a new vineyard has been established in the grounds of the Brettoneau Hospital in Paris’ 18th arrondisement (also within Montmarte on the north side of the city - see map). Designed in part as therapy for patients (in tending the vines and making the wine rather than just imbibing it) the intriguing question is why Malbec - a grape variety which needs a lot of sun for ripening and which can produce quite big, tannic wines and is mainly grown 400 miles further south in the Cahors AOC. I had expected something more like a Pinot Noir or Gamay which tolerate cooler climes and which are the predominant grapes at Clos Montmartre,
The selection of Malbec is down to Fabrice Durou, the winemaker from Chateau de Gaudou in Cahors, a well-respected domaine at Vire-sur-Lot. So here is a man who knows his grapes and has made a “micro-cuvee. It all shows a rather different approach to the marketing gimmick which Australian producer McGuigan put on in London recently when they created a temporary vineyard in the heart of the City of London - a fun idea, admittedly, but ephemeral! (see www.ukwinesonline.co.uk)
For more about the Cahors wines of Chateau de Gaudou see www.chateaudegaudou.com
Guy Cuisset at Chateau Grinou in Bergerac is an extraordinary winemaker - for years his wines took pride of place on the Allez Vins! wine list both with his “Tradition” wines for superb everyday drinking and his “Reserve” wines, oaked red and white wines of a premium quality but keenly priced (not to mention his oaked dessert Saussignac which is stunning) So I was keen to taste the latest addition to the range - a pure, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, which has all the hallmarks of a Grinou wine - intense fruit character, crisp and clean but with surprising depth of flavour.
A visit to Chateau Grinou (Monestier, 24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) south west of Bergerac, always takes longer than planned, and I always learn more than I expect.
On this ocassion it was to discover that Chateau Grinou is going organic! Now, whilst Guy Cuisset has a genuine concern for the well-being of the local environment and takes seriously his responsibilities as the current steward of the land and the flora and fauna of the domaine, he is no “tree-hugger”. His primary passion is to produce excellent wines. He does not compromise that objective, especially as there are so many other obstacles (weather, pest, disease) and constraints (bureaucratic, legal, financial) in the way. He is convinced that this approach, whilst being a good investment in the future health and viability of the vineyard, will produce better wines - wines which are more intense and show more of the real fruit character of the grape. The wines will evolve over the next few years as new techniques and fewer artificial interventions make subtle changes to the resulting wines.
The latest visit also included a walk through the vines, which demonstrate the complexity of the challenge. Every year is different, and every one of the 365 days of the year will be distinctively different from this year to last or next. This Spring was seriously wet with heavy downpours and sodden soil. This was followed by some very hot dry weather which dried the topsoil to an almost impenetrable concrete layer - making life very difficult when trying to get rid of the weeds between the vines - esepcially now that he can no longer apply selective weedkillers to deal with the problem.
Further on, he shows me his latest innovation - an organic water treatment plant - which collects all the waste water from the winery and treats it organically and aerobically before letting it flow into the local water course. It’s impressive with its bubbling air pumping through the water and the reed bed to filter the run-off. It may be a requirement of the EU, but few other vineyards are following his example.
It is easy to forget amongst all the hype, marketing and packaging that wine is an agricultural product, and that the winemaker is a farmer with his roots in the soil and environment of his domaine - he can see the benefits to local wildlife (some welcome, others not so), and recognises that his future and that of future generations is intimately invested in the “terroir” which makes his wines what they are.
Unfortunately the new Sauvingon Blanc (Bergerac Sec AC) is not yet available in the UK, so all the more reason to pay a visit to the domaine. English is spoken, but do not expect a fancy tasting room with award certificates, old barrels or ancient vineyard equipment - a plastic table in the middle of the stainless steel cuves is all you’ll get - plus a chance to taste some excellent wines and a small slice of Guy’s enthusiasm to take away!
For more info on Chateau Grinou and UK stockists - see www.frenchduck.co.uk/grinou.html
| July 19, 2008 | ||
| July 20, 2008 |
Sigoules (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) (see map) south of Bergerac celebrates local wine production on the weekend of 19/20 July 2008 with its Foire aux Vins with all the usual activities including ceremonies, a church mass, banquets, folk music and dancing, concerts - and opportunities to taste the wine and food of the local area which includes the wines of Bergerac AC and the Cotes de Duras AC.
It promises to be fun - plus there are plenty of good winemakers in the area.
For more info see www.pays-de-bergerac.com
The trouble with writing about “hidden” corners of France, is that you run the danger of sharing the secret with too many others. Places which I felt were “real France”, quiet, peaceful and unspoilt, have often changed in the last 20 years, becoming commercialised, crowded and bland. But, somehow the location and geography of the upper Lot Valley probably make this less likely.
Although I have made many visits to the lower Lot, especially around the town of Cahors and the Cahors AC vineyards, I had only ventured up-river once - and that was to the picturesque village of St Cirq-la-Popie - perched high on the limestone crags overlooking the valley about 20 miles distant. The valley even here is quite different to the lower Lot where the river, although still pleasingly curvaceous, tends to be wider.
Few vineyards are to be found upriver from Cahors, but the countryside of the Upper Lot and Célé valleys is spectacular - and quieter. The limestone crags and cliffs dominate the landscape offer breathtaking views - and although the roads are often narrow and distinctly bendy, this tends to have the effect of entering a land where time runs more slowly, where nature makes itself felt - and that is miles away from the tourist centres of the Dordogne. And the journey keeps unfolding as you head on up the valley - another 90 miles in our case.
Our objective was to get to meet with Americans Lance and Rain who have 3 cottages to rent near Entraygues-sur-Truyere ( 12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees). Although we had been in contact by email, I was intrigued to discover how and why 2 Californians had settled in one of the lesser-known parts of France.
The journey up the valley provided at least part of the answer - this is a truly beautiful part of France - the valley becomes narrower, but still offers delightful villages, stunning views and plenty of opportunity to enjoy the river - whether just sitting on the bank in the shade or being more energetic with canoes or kayaks. Entraygues-sur-Truyere, which translates as “between the waters” - i.e. the river Lot and its tributary the Truyere - is everything you expect of a small rural French market town - with its bridges over the river and narrow streets - and the essentials - a bank, boulangerie, hotel, bar etc - and the quiet air of a place at peace with itself - especially on a hot summer afternoon.
The other reason for Lance and Rain choosing this spot also became clear when we found the “Sweet French Cottages” up a narrow track above the river a few kilometres out of town. We discovered a haven of tranquility - with delightful hosts and some wonderful holiday cottages - well, appointed, cleverly and carefully restored - but above all secluded and deep in the countryside - yet just a few miles from all the conveniences of the town - and in an area rich with local artisans producing wine, cheese, wine. pottery…… The local wines, Vins d’Entraygues et du Fel VDQS, had to be tasted of course (along with some wonderful goats cheese made by one of the neighbours)! The vineyards are often terraced high on the sides of the valley, and production is small - mostly drunk locally. The white we tasted from Domaine de Mejanassere was a blend of Chenin Blanc and Mauzac grapes - a light, refreshing dry wine with a pleasing floral nose and exotic fruit finish; the red (Gamay, Fer Servadou, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Savignon), whilst being a tad “rustic” was perfect with some local saucisson. Somehow these uncomplicated straightforward wines were a great match for the time and place!
Whilst many might aspire to the Californian lifestyle, these Californians have clearly found their home in the depths of France, and whilst they remain ambitious, they are relaxed and welcoming - a long way from the stereotypical loud American we’ve all met. Indeed, there is something about the place that seems to instill some sense of peace and contentment - the world of autoroutes, big business and conflict seems, and is, a long way away - whilst nature imposes its own sense of order to things - whether it be the landscape, the river or the weather.
It is certainly an area I intend to return to - there is so much to explore, especially guided by two people who know the area well, and are keen to share it with others. Their ambitions include developing artists retreats (with a studio planned) and themed stays based on the local food etc.
For more about Lance and Rain’s SWEET FRENCH COTTAGES - see www.frenchduck.com/latest OR to enquire about availability and rates etc, complete the form below:-
cforms contact form by delicious:days
which provides an entertaining insight into the geography and history of this wonderful region.
| August 10, 2008 |
The Bristol Wine and Food Fair (11-13 July 2008) seems to have been a great success - lots of interest and many interesting exhibitors, including the English-owned vineyard at Domaine Chater in the Côtes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine):-
Domaine Chater is a small vineyard that nestles in the rolling hills around the historic town of Duras in South-West France. We are passionate about making great wines and no compromises are made in the vineyard or the winery. Our white wines are refreshing and full of fruit while our reds are complex with layers of fruit and spice. Our range of wines has already won a huge amount of international recognition.
Although they only began producing wine in 2004, they have enjoyed significant success in gaining recognition for the quality of their wines. The Cotes de Duras is particularly renown for its Sauvignon Blancs, which they do indeed produce good Sauvignon, but unusually for the region their Cabernet and Merlot reds have drawn most praise:-
….two styles of red wines are produced at Domaine Chater; traditional (a majority of the wine aged in our stainless steel tanks) and oak aged (made from old vines and aged in 100% French Oak). Our traditional wines have the emphasis upon rich fruit flavours with subtle tannins and are great with red meat dishes. Chater oak aged wines are made with 40-year old vines and barrel-aged for 12 months in French oak barrels with one-third of the barrels being renewed every year - producing complex wines with layers of fruit, liquorice and spice. Great with red meat and rich sauces.
Importantly their wines are consistently rated by the Guide Hachette des Vins de France - what many consider to be the French wine bible, as entries are secured by blind tastings rather than paid adverts.
You can order online direct from France as they have a UK warehouse - and you can visit the domaine in St Sernin-de-Duras - just give them a call beforehand to ensure someone is around.
Domaine Chater
Vignoble de la Lègue, 47120 St Sernin de Duras, France (see map)
T:0033 553 64 67 14
Email: info@domainechater.com
For more info on the Côtes de Duras wine region see www.cotesdeduras.com
For the diary; Domaine Chater will be at the Duras Wine Festival on 10 August 2008 - see www.paysdeduras.com
| August 3, 2008 |
The small appellation of Saint Sardos, (82 Tarn-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) some 50km west of Toulouse and south of Montauban is unique in having a blend of Syrah and Tannat as the principal grapes supplemented by Cabernet and Merlot. As such it reflects its geography between the Languedoc (where Syrah is important) and Madiran (where Tannat is king) with a dash of classic Bordeaux varietals. The result is a fruity, spicy red or rose wine, which for the best cuvees needs a couple of years to mature.
The wine fair takes place in the town of Saint-Sardos (82 Tarn-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) on Sunday 3 August 2008.
For more info see www.cave-saint-sardos.com (in French)
In the UK some of the wines of Saint Sardos are available from Devigne Wines in Edinburgh
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| July 14, 2008 | ||
| August 13, 2008 | ||
| August 14, 2008 |
The two appellations of Madiran AC (red) and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh AC (white) were created in 1948, and will be celebrating n July and August 2008.
These 2 appellations are typical of the South West of France - producing distinctively different styles of wine from lesser-known grape varieties - predominantly Tannat for the Madiran, Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng for the usually sweet Pacherenc-du-Vic Bilh. These are not necessaily “fashionable” wines but they are interesting, characterful, honest wines, which are no longer just rustic curiousities. Modern wine-making techniques enable skilled winemakers to produce more approachable wines whilst retaining the essential character which distinguishes them from the mainstream.
Didier Barre produces wonderfully rich and smooth Madiran at Domaine Berthoumieu - his sweet Pacherenc is a delicious, complex perfumed dessert wine. Another top producer is the Laplace family at Chateau d’Aydie.
The excellent co-operative Producteurs Plaimont produces good examples of the regions wines.
In August the Fete des Vins de Madiran takes place on the weekend of 14 and 15 August 2008 in the village of Madiran (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees).
From 4-14 July there are a series of events to celebrate, including daily “introduction to wine tasting” sessions at the Maison des Vins in Madiran, guided walks amongst the vineyards, music and barbecues - see www.civso.com (in French).
| July 24, 2008 | ||
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| July 26, 2008 | ||
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| July 27, 2008 | ||
| August 1, 2008 |
The departement of Gers (32 Midi-Pyrenees) in the heart of Gascony has built a reputation for creating its musical summer festivals – principally the internationally renowned Jazz in Marciac (1–17 August 2008) and Tempo Latino (24–27 July 2008) in Vic Fezensac.
These otherwise quiet small towns vibrate with music, and the streets are filled with people – and the events are also sponsored by the Cotes de St Mont VDQS wine co-operative (Plaimont) just to ensure that the atmosphere is convivial.
AMongst tge artists appearing at Marciac are Diana Krall and Herbie Hancock, whilst Tempo Latino has a latin jazz theme.
| August 8, 2008 | ||
| August 9, 2008 | ||
| August 10, 2008 |
The Gaillac AOC appellation celebrates the local wines over 3 days (8–10 August 2008) in the town of Gaillac (81 Tarn, Midi-Pyrenees) Famous for its wines made from local grape varieties such as Mauzac and L’En de l’El, a wide range of wines styles is produced from dry to sweet, white, rose, red, still. sparkling and perlé, which is a local lightly sparkling wine with some natural bubbles.
Situated in the north of the Tarn departement, the Gaillac Appellation area covers 2.500 hectares spread over 73 communes, for an AOC production of over 165.000 hectolitres.
Today, the appellation gathers around one hundred independent producers and 3 cooperative cellars.
The 3 different terroirs and the age of the vineyard enable Gaillac to offer numerous traditional grape varieties. The diversity of the Gaillac vineyard means that it can produce a great variety of elaborate wines, a wide range of dry, sweet and “perlé” white wines, red and rose wines as well as sparkling wines.
Our recommended producer in the region is Domaine de Labarthe, where the Albert family make consistently good wines which retain traditional character - try their Cuvée Guillaume (oaked red) and their dessert white “Grains d’Or” (golden grapes).
For more info on the wines of Gaillac see www.vins-gaillac.com
| August 8, 2008 |
The winemakers of the Coteaux du Quercy VDQS celebrate their annual wine fair at Montprezat-du-Quercy (82 Tarn-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) on 8 August 2008.
Located between Montauban and Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees), these red and rose wines are unusually (for the south of France) based on Cabernet Franc (40–60% of the blend) with Malbec, Tannat, and Gamay being the other allowed varieties.
The name “Quercy” comes from the latin “quercus” for oak – and was the name given to a large area of South West France until the current departement system was introduced in 1790. The Coteaux du Quercy area was known as “Bas Quercy” and is dominated by the high “Causses” or moorland which still has a lot of “scrub oaks”.
| August 9, 2008 |
Cahors with its Malbec (or Cot or Auxerrois) based wines remains one of my personal favourites – and these wines seem to improve year on year. This may be due to competition from South America, especially Argentina, where more overtly fruity and accessible Malbec wines are produced. However for me they lack the depth and intensity which good Cahors can offer. It’s also worth remembering that much of the Cahors vineyard is effectively less than 50 years old – the whole area was devastated by severe frost in 1956 which killed off most of the vines. Much changes in a vineyard in 50 years – vines mature, techniques improve, the best locations are revealed – and as exports increase winemakes have an incentive to strive to produce ever better wines.
You can try for yourself at the Fete du Vin de Cahors (Cahors Wine Festival) to be held at Puy l’Eveque (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) on 9 August 2008 – about 20 miles west of Cahors town on the river Lot. This opens in the Salle des Fetes at 5pm (i.e. after the worst of the heat of the day) and offers visitors the chance to taste the wines of local independent winemakers, but a few bottles (or more) all accompanied by music and a banquet!
| July 26, 2008 |
The Vignerons Independants (independent wine makers) of the Vins de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne hold their annual wine festival in the town of Eauze (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) on 26 July 2008. More than 50 winemakers will be offering tastings. The Cotes de Gascogne is best known for making light fruity whites wines (90% of the production), typically from Colombard or Ugni Blanc grapes, but there are also some good Sauvignon Blancs and Gros Manseng.
However, many winemakers will also produce Armagnac and Floc de Gascogne which are also based on Colombard and Ugni Blanc grapes. Floc de Gascogne is a blend of unfermented grape juice and Armagnac which served chilled is a refreshing aperitif, available in white and rose styles.
| July 3, 2008 | ||
| August 9, 2008 |
The elegant city of Montauban gets its streets filled with Jazz for its 5 week long Fesitval de Jazz from 3 July to 9 August 2008 – and there will be other attractions such as the opportunity to taste the wines of the Cotes de Brulhois AC which come from just south of Agen (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) and are red wines based on Tannat, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet and Fer Servadou grapes – a potentially rustic blend which can produce some seriously good reds.
