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There seems to be increasing evidence that the Loire Valley is producing ever better Sauvignon Blanc wines - especially from the Touraine (south of Tours) and east towards Sancerre (which is technically from the “Centre”, but is nevertheless in the valley of the river Loire!) There is a significant area from the southern Touraine eastwards to the appellations of Quincy, Reulilly and Menetou-Salon, which consistently produce some of the most exciting Sauvignons and at reasonable prices. Whether this is due to climate change, or more likely improved techniques in the vineyard and cellar is a moot point.

If it is climate change, then this may cause a little concern, as the best Sauvignon Blancs are cool climate wines - so maybe England may come into the reckoning in another 10-20 years!

I confess to being a little cynical about Wine Awards – there are so many awards that it ends up a bit like Google searches – you know that just because a wine is at the top of the list does not necessarily mean that it is in any objective sense the best – but also how many of us bother to read the results on the 3^rd,4^th or lower pages, which just might hide the “nugget” which is what you are looking for.

However a quick skim of the International Wine Challenge results 2008 did reveal an old favourite - a wine which I first imported over 10 years ago – Domaine Joel Delaunay’s Touraine Sauvignon 2007.Domaine Joel Delaunay is situated on the valley sides above the river Cher – a small family run domaine, which always offers a warm welcome.

Majestic are offering their Domaine Joel Delaunay 2007 Touraine Sauvignon AC – “Rich, steely Sauvignon just bursting with gooseberry fruit, from a superb small grower.” and it won a Gold Medal in this year’s Wine Awards.

http://www.joeldelaunay.com/

Other examples of great Loire valley whites include another Touraine Sauvignon from Domaine Octavie at Oisly, and the wines of Michel Gendrier at Domaine des Huards in Cour-Cheverny.

The annual grape harvest is always an exciting time in the vineyard, but also an anxious time, full of hard work to get the grapes picked in their optimum condition and then managing the vagaries of the fermentation process. It is also a time when visitors are not generally welcome - there being too much else to do for the winemaker.

However at Domaine du Closel/Chateau des Vaults at Savennières AC (west of Angers) in the Loire Valley are offering enthusiasts the opportunity to get closer to the harvest and wine-making process with their “Harvest Adventure”

Take part in the celebration of the centuries-old tradition of grape harvesting hosted by the winemaking team of Domaine du Closel - Château des Vaults.
On the 27th of September and 11th of October Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults invites you to spend the day at the historic 17 hectares (42-acre) vineyard in the Savennières appellation of the Loire Valley; a vineyard with the best terroirs of the region.
Space is limited ! To reserve your space for the Harvest Adventure, please contact Audrey Vergondy
on +33 (0)2 72 81 00 or request your booking form via email at chateau.des.vaults@orange.fr

This could be quite an experience - you are not expected to do the back-breaking work of picking the grapes, but the programme for each day does include an introduction to wine-making, a go at sorting grapes picked from 100 year-old vines, a chance to crush grapes with your feet, a vineyard brunch with music and dancing, a tasting and finishes off with a Gourmet Harvest Dinner with one of the region’s top chefs.

Savennières AC is a small prized wine area which many consider to produce the finest Chenin Blanc wines in the world. The stony vineyards lie on slopes of slate and sandstone which must be worked by hand, as they are too steep for machinery. Situated close to the Loire river, warmer temperatures and early morning fogs protect the vines from frost, a common problem in the area. The stoney soil retains heat from the sun providing warmth at night. At one time, Savennières was made sweet, but the style has evolved over the years to a point where Savennières is now made fully dry. (For more on Savennieres and the wines of the Loire Valley see www.loirevalleywine.com

The Telegraph (19 Aug 08) includes a boat trip up the Rhone Valley as one of its top 10 river cruises:

Navigating France’s mightiest river is a favourite for wine aficionados and foodies. A cruise through Burgundy and Provence gives you the chance to visit vineyards (think Côtes du Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape), explore Lyon – the gourmet capital of France – and enjoy historic towns such as the fortified city of Avignon and the Roman ruins in Arles. The countryside is equally superb: its fields of lavender and sunflowers were an inspiration for artists such as Vincent Van Gogh, and as the river drains into the Mediterranean you’ll see the famous white horses of the Camargue.

The route includes many worthwhile stops for visits to suit all tastes, but it is also remarkably rich in potential wine visits as you’ll pass through appellations such as Costieres de Nimes, Cotes du Rhone (north and south), Lirac, Tavel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, St Joseph and Hermitage - and if you branch onto the River Saone north of Lyon you can explore Beuajolais and southern Burgundy!

It should come as little surprise that rivers and canals tend to offer good access to good vineyards - vines often grow best on the steep valley sides with their good drainage and aspect to the sun.

A more modest trip than the Rhone, could be a canal trip from Auxerre (89 Yonne, Burgundy) close to Chablis and down the Canal de Bourgogne to Dijon and the Burgundy vineyards; or a trip down the Canal Lateral de la Loire for Sancerre AC, Pouilly-Fumé and Coteaux Giennois. By using the Canal du Nivernais and the Canal de Briare you could even manage a circular route via Auxerre.

Of course, Rick Stein’s French Odyssey was based on a canal trip along the Canal du Midi and the Canal Lateral de la Garonne and included the vineyards of Bordeaux, Cotes du Marmandais, Buzet, Fronton, Minervois, Corbieres and the Coteaux du Languedoc.

For another set of options try Hilary Wright’s book Water into Wine: A Wine Lover’s Journey Through The Waterways of France which also includes itineraries in the lower Loire. Cognac, Alsace, Lorraiine and the Lot.

For more info on the canals of France see the website for VNF (Voies Navigable de la France) now much improved and in English!

There’s a new free map and guide available from InterLoire (the official wine body for the region) to the vineyards of the Loire Valley available to download and in English:-

The light glistening on the river and its tributaries is a wonderful sight. The cellars carved into white limestone, magical châteaux, magnificent gardens, hillsides covered in vines ; hundreds of sights that still hold the memory of kings, queens, princes and artists like Rabelais, Ronsard, Balzac, Leonardo da Vinci, and Joachim du Bellay… The Loire vineyards offer charm, grace and surprise around every corner. It is a region for good living, a valley of abundance, a source of flavourful wines and generous aromas,and we would like to share all that with you.

This wine region (which does not include other appellations which are nevertheless close to the River Loire such as Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Quincy, Menetou-Salon etc - these are all classified as “Vins du Centre” ) does cover the Loire from the Atlantic to Orleans and includes 68 separate appellations and has more than 7,000 wine producers making it France’s third most important vineyard.

For each winemaker there is a comprehensive entry - e.g. for one of our favourites, the Domaine Leduc-Frouin in Anjou:-

Domaine Leduc-Frouin
The Leduc-Frouin estate invites you to discover its wines in a guided tasting session. Guided tours upon request. Groups: tours and wine tastings, reservations necessary for meals.
Monday - Friday: 9 am -12 pm / 2 pm - 6 pm, Saturday: 2 pm - 6 pm, and mornings by appointment only.
AOC Anjou Blanc ; Anjou Gamay ; Anjou Rouge ; Anjou Villages ; Cabernet d’Anjou ; Coteaux du Layon ; Rosé d’Anjou ; Rosé de Loire ; Saumur Brut.
Antoine et Nathalie LEDUC La Seigneurie – Sousigné
T:02 41 59 42 83
info@leduc-frouin.com
www.leduc-frouin.com

This is an invaluable guide to wine touring in the region, which does offer many delights for the wine and food enthusiast and others.

Download the map and guide
For more on Domaine Leduc-Frouin see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Some of the Loire Valley’s most famous wines are likely to be in short supply and at increased prices in the next 12 months or so, following bad weather which is just one of the perils which winemakers face.

In the Spring the western end of the Loire, where it meets the Atlantic and home to Muscadet, was hit by severe frosts which hit just as the fragile buds were breaking - such that there will be little if any crop or wine from many estates. The vine can tolerate moderate frosts when it is dormant in the winter , but once the buds begin to break it can be very vulnerable. The Daily Telegraph (25 July 2008) reported that:

“Growers said yesterday that up to 70% of the Melon de Bourgogne grapes used to make Muscadet were killed by frost in April. A second bloom - which normally gives the vines a chance to recuperate - was also ravaged by cold and wet weather atthe start of the summer”

Then towards the end of June a severe hailstorm hit the vineyards of the Centre region, particularly around Poully-Fumé and to a lesser extent Sancerre. This is classic Loire Sauvignon Blanc territory.

It seems particulary rough on Muscadet, which has in recent years overcome its old reputation for producing cheap, thin, acidic wines - recent years have seen the appellation transformed with many more excellent whites from the region becoming available - still retaining their very dry and acidic character but with much more depth of flavour and fruit content.

For more info on Muscadet see www.muscadet.fr 

France has always been a good camping destination - the French themselves enjoy “le camping” and the autoroutes heading south are testament to what seems like a mass exodus of Dutch caravans every summer seeking the warmer climes of the Midi or Provence.
On a recent visit to Domaine Octavie at Oisly (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) we discovered a special scheme for motor-caravab (motorhomes?, RVs?, camping cars) called France Passion. In return for a small annual subscription (about £22) you get a map and guide to thousands of farms and vineyards across France where you can park up for the night free of charge.
You need to be self-contained for water, electric etc, as these locations are not campsites with all the amenities - often just a water tap and a bin for the rubbish.
Limited to just a couple of vans, the scheme offers the chance to stay in idyllic, peaceful surroundings - at Octavie this was amidst the vines!
And being effectively the winemaker or farmer’s guest, it is only polite to offer to taste the produce - be it wine, fruit, vegetables, honey, foie gras, snails, olives, even ostrich!
I have heard the French complain that many northern europeans visit their region only to be too self-contained - bringing their home with them and keeping themselves to themselves - but this scheme offers the chance to meet the French on their own turf and find out something about the life of a farmer or winemaker.
For more info on the scheme see www.france-passion.co.uk

We always enjoy visiting Domaine Octavie, where Madame Isabelle provides a warm welcome - their Touraine Sauvignon AC is always excellent - this part of France is ideal for producing top quality Sauvignon Blanc - the region includes Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Quincy etc.
We were also impressed with the Touraine Gamay AC, which had a remarkable depth of flavour and structure - ideal to accompany a grilled lamb steak (tranche de gigot. Another testament to the changing climate methinks - as Loire valley Gamay could never have reached such a level of intensity 10 years or so ago.
Domaine Octavie, Oisly, 41 Loir-et-Cher

Doué-la-Fontaine (49 Maine-et-Loire, Pays de la Loire), south of Angers, self-styles itself as “the Rose Garden of France!” and also claims to be the largest rose production area in the whole of Europe cultivating more than 7 million roses annually.! The town celebrates this with its Journées de la Rose (Rose Days) Festival from 11-15 July 2008.

Over 40,000 visitors attend this magnificent display of rose designs and rose sculptures held in the underground caves of the Roman Arena.
Enjoy the variety of aromas, harmony of colours and multitudes of intoxicating perfumes.

See our customised map of the area

For more info on the Journeees de la Rose see  www.journeesdelarose.com/

Doué’s other main attraction is the Zoo de Doué (or Bio Park as they call themselves!) - but you are also close to the vineyards of Anjou - why not visit our friends at Domaine Leduc-Frouin - see our map for other ideas

Jancis Robinson in the Financial Times (12 May 08) talks about the growing number of Brits who have followed their dream and bought a vineyard in France.

It is hardly surprising then that a substantial proportion of the hundreds of thousands of Brits who own French property have been tempted by the apparently bucolic life of a vigneron……
Are there any French winemakers left down there?
I asked Walter McKinlay, whose Domaine de Mourchon southern Rhône wines are some of the most successful from a British domaine, whether his Domaine de Mourchon wines were financially viable. He frowned. “Just about,” he said cautiously, then smiled. “But it’s a lovely lifestyle though.”

My own observation would be that it can be incredibly hard work and despite the attractions of the climate, landscape and the French way of life, it can also be very stressful. And as with all winemakers, a bad harvest, particularly in the early years can be devastating.

So, here’s our list of British vineyard owners (and 1 Irish couple) - that we are aware of (not an exhaustive list I am sure). Visits can be much more informative if the language is no barrier:-

Domaine de Laroux - Cotes de Gascogne, Armagnac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) - Nick and Karen Kitchener
Chateau Haut Garrigue - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Sean and Caroline Feely (the Irish couple running an organic vineyard also known as Wild Earth Vineyards)
Domaine de Fontenay - Cote Roannaise AC (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) - Simon and Isabelle Hawkins

Chateau Richard - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Richard Doughty

Domaine de Merchien - Coteaux du Quercy and beer! (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees - David & Sarah Meakin

Clos d’Yvigne - Cotes de Bergeac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Patricia Atkinson

Chateau des Milles Anges - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Cadillac AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Heather van Ekris

Chateau Lezongars - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Philip and Sarah Iles

Chateau Teyssier - Saint Emilion Grand Cru AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Jonathan and Lyn Maltus

Chateau de Sours - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Esme & Sara Johnson

Domaine Gourdon - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - John Coulthard
Domaine du Grand Mayne - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - Andrew Gordon
Domaine de Begude - Limoux AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Catherine and James Kinglake
Domaine de Mourchon - Cotes du Rhone Seguret AC (84 Vaucluse, Provence) - Walter McKinley
Maison des Bulliats - Regnie AC Beaujolais (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) - Fred and Helen Lockwood
Chateau Méaume - Bordeaux Superieure AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill

Domaine a Sauvageonne - Coteaux du Languedoc AC, Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc - Roussillon) - Gavin Crisfield

Domaine Sainte Rose - Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Charles and Ruth Simpson

Chateau Bauduc - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Gavin and Angela Quinney

Domaine Sainte Croix - Corbieres AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Jon & Elizabeth Bowen

Chateau Monplaisir - Bergerac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - David and Helen Baxter

Chateau du Seuil  - Graves AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Sean and Nicola Allison

Majestic Wine has just introduced a new section on their website entitle “Something Different”.

It’s a frequent frustration that some of our most interesting wines are the hardest to sell, simply because customers don’t instantly recognise them on the stack. For that reason I have instigated a new feature on the site in which we’ll feature interesting or new wines which might struggle to push up through all the well known names also featured on our site.

I applaud the intention, as it always disappointed me that too often customers would choose the wines they knew rather than venture into something new or different. But then I suppose we all do that from time to time, but with such a wealth of wines to choose from in the UK, you may be missing something really good.

Included in the list are some wines which are definitely not as well known as they should be, including Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc:“Made on the Mediterranean coast close to the ‘oyster’ town of Sète, Picpoul might have been (probably was) designed as the perfect foil for seafood. It is crisp and fresh, with the same prickle of acidity that characterizes Muscadet, but has an added dimension with just the merest hint of tropical fruit. Always bottled in tall green flutes, it should be served young and cold. Don’t drink it on a wet Wednesday in February, but if the sun shines this is the perfect choice.”
Bourgeuil from the Loire Valley: “Wines made from the Cabernet Franc grape can give rasping, green-flavoured, charmless wines. This however is the reverse – the very warm 2003 has softened any hard edges to give a lovely, balanced wine. Its 12.5% alcohol is low by modern standards, and the tannins have an attractive tealeaf character which is great with food. I would like to cellar this for a few years and watch it evolve.”
And a Rousanne from the Cotes de Thongue also in the Languedoc and made by Domaine Sainte Rose: “The rather bland packaging masks a high quality, interesting wine, which instantly wins over all who taste it. On the nose there is a rich, creamy complexity whilst the palate is buoyed by luxurious, peachy fruit and fresh acidity. Not all wines made by expat winemakers are special, but this is! It would be a great alternative to chardonnay, having the weight and feel of an expensive white burgundy.“

The Coteaux du Layon - the valley of the River Layon - is known for producing some of the best dessert wines in the Loire Valley. Made from the versatile Chenin Blanc grape affected by noble rot, these can be gloriously complex and aromatic wines.

Since 1994, the village of Rablay-sur-Layon has rallied round to organise a free festival of theatre, music and singing. For 2 days, twenty or so different shows are put on in various areas and squares around the village.

The winegrowers of Rablay play an active part in preparing for the event and organize aperitif concerts and a vintage wine tasting area.

Rablay-sur-Layon (49 Maine-et-Loire, Val de Loire) lies due south of the city of Angers and not far from our favourite Anjou wine producer - Antoine Leduc at Domaine Leduc-Frouin who makes an excellent Coteaux du Layon AC.

Antoine is a very talented and respected winemaker, and also a delightful host if he happens to be around when you visit the cellars. He is ably assisted by his enthusiastic sister Natalie and their mother. We imported their wines for many years and often the wines were truly superb.

For more info on Rablay and its festival see www.rablaysurlayon.com
For more on this area see our customised map

What could be more French than driving a classic black Citroen TA in the Loire Valley? The Citroen TA is another of those iconic French cars which are so quirly and original in design they could only be French! TA stands for Traction Avant - front wheel drive introduced in 1934, and so often associated with black and white films and Maigret.

A car & minibus hire company in Port Vallières (37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) just west of Tours on the Loire offers self-drive hire of the Citroen TA which could offer a great way to explore the vineyards and chateaux of Touraine (Touraine AC, Vouvray AC, Cheverny, Cour-Cheverny AC etc).

Quart de Tours, 184 Quai des Bateliers, Port Vallières, 37320 Fondettes

From 13-18 May 2008 the city of Nantes celebrates its local wine - Muscadet! 80 restaurants, winebars and wine merchants will be offering special menus featuring the local dishes of the region and its wines! With a winemaker available to answer all you questions about these crisp fresh white wines, this promises to be a good opportunity to revisit Muscadet wines, which were so popular years ago, but whose reputation was ruined by the production (or at least UK imports) of thin acidic wines.
Many examples tasted over the last year or so have restored my faith in the appellation, offering some wonderfully rich and complex wines, especially “sur lie”, which deserve to be taken much more seriously than as just a good wine with fish! It still is a good wine with fish and seafood, but it can also provide a worthy alternative to Sauvignon Blanc and Alsace Riesling.

For more info see www.vinsdeloire.fr

Yapp is good with Loire wines and offers a Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine from Domaine de la Morlaine at £6.95: “Bone dry with a subdued saline nose and a braving citric zest on the palate.”

Waitrose (online and in its stores) launches its French Wine Showcase on 26 March 08 - running through to 27 April 2008 this will feature a total of 48 wines.

As well as our usual French favourites, the showcase will also see the launch of four new wines to the range, including the delightful Taittinger Rose NV and the excellent value Domaine des Eyssards Bergerac Rouge.

Unusually for a major supermarket (and greatly to be welcomed) Waitrose will be featuring 13 specially sourced small parcel wines from a wide range of less well-known appellations such as:

Quincy (crisp Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire), Provence and Lirac (Southern Rhone) and the wonderfully unusual Pierre Boniface Domaine des Rocailles Apremont de Savoie 2007 and La Bastide Blanche Bandol (rich Mourvedre red from east of Marseille).

Waitrose Wine Direct

The Telegraph(1 March 2008) offers a list of “50 Spring Breaks” which includes the idea of staying in a modern, well-equipped treehouse in southern Normandy

In the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional du Perche, in southern Normandy, Perché dans le Perche is a treehouse with two bedrooms, a shower, internet access and panoramic views of the countryside.

Situated in the Orne (61 Normandie) not far from Le Mans (72 Sarthe, Pays de la Loire), the Regional Park covers an area of southern Normandie and is a great area for rambling, horse riding and exploring the gentle unspoilt countryside - see www.le-perche.org. For more info on the treehouse see www.perchedansleperche.com

Also included in the Telegraph’s list is www.campbiche.com in deepest South West France on the edge of “le Quercy Blanc” near the quiet but delightful bastide village of Lauzerte (82 Tarn et Garonne), not far from Cahors, Agen and Montauban.  I’m not sure if a glass of wine fits with a health cure, but you have the vineyards of Cahors, Buzet and Fronton and Coteaux du Quercy within easy reach. Then there’s duck, goose, foie gras…..

Stressed? Feeling fat? Try the new boot camp à la francaise: Camp Biche (020 7617 7253, www.campbiche.com), in Lauzerte, Tarn-et-Garonne. Eight hours of exercise – hiking, workouts, Pilates – by day, good food by night. About £2,300 per person a week.

In the Guardian 01 March 08 the Auberge des Liards in the Auvergne (Egliseneuve des Liards, 63 Puy-de-Dome, Auvergne) is one of 10 eco-friendly places to stay (as is the NormandyTree House above)

The property - part of a smallholding - is on the slopes of Puy de Liards, an extinct volcano on the outskirts of the village of Égliseneuve des Liards. The owners, Dutch couple Astrid Ursem and Walter Verhoeve, have created the guesthouse from two ruined farm buildings. The main house has two guest rooms, and a nearby building contains two “ecological” rooms constructed with natural and traditional materials. Insulation is provided by a mix of hemp, chalk, loam and hay - as well as soil collected from molehills, which they use to insulate the floor. The rooms are simply decorated, with natural colours and wooden furniture. Guests are provided with eco-friendly soap, there are low-energy lights and household cleaning products are biodegradable.

I’m not sure I expected to find a couple moving from Australia to make a home in the depths of the southern Loire Valley, but a recent article on the Preuilly-sur-Claise Saffron Festival unearthed an interesting website (blog) called “Days on the Claise” run by Susan and Simon.
As well as more about the Saffron Festival, there is also an interesting exploration of one of the local goats cheeses - Sainte Maure de Touraine:

St Maure de Touraine is an AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) which roughly follows the boundaries of the old Province of Touraine. It has to be made by traditional methods - this just about means that all the cheese is made by hand from fresh ingredients, either on farms or in dairy co-operatives. There is an industrial version made in the same area, but this is called St Maure (without the Touraine bit). Our nearest farm is about 5 km from us on the road from Preuilly and Charnizay, and they won a Golden Goat for farm produced Sainte Maure in 2005.

There is even a recipe from the local hotel for Carp in a Goats Cheese Sauce (Filet de carpe de Brenne au Saint-Maure-de-Touraine).

For a different insight into aspects of living in rural France see Days on the Claise.

A possible base for visiting this area would be the P&V Apartment complex at Loches (37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) Ideally located on the banks of the Indre and opposite the “Logis Royal”, the Pierre & Vacances resort at Loches occupies an outstanding site: the redeveloped old flour mills, to which small modern buildings respectful of the surrounding heritage have been added. The medieval town of Loches is just a 5-minute walk away. Further afield lie the chateaux de Loire, including Chambord, Tours, and Chenonceau