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The Discovery of France by Graham Robb has proved to be a fascinating book on the history not so much of France as of the peoples of France. The book tries to make sense of the many contradictions and facets of France as we experience it as fellow citizens of Europe, and in its telling you learn a lot about French history.
We tend to think of France as a relatively homoegenous country and race - an assumption soon exposed when you consider the different outlook, habits and physical appearance of the people of Brittany compared to those of Provence or the Languedoc. To many “French” has been a foreign, imposed language and identity, an example of the rational and enlightened intellectual state imposing its will on disparate and wayward or even “backward” provincial or rustic peoples.
Unlike the UK, which being an island relatively quickly assumed a degree of national identity fairly easily, the French were until relatively recently much more parochial outside of the major cities. I recall talking to an old man in the Tarn departement some 20 years ago, who had never travelled more than 20 kilometres in his 78 years. The size of France, and the relatively late onset of modern industrial society with its roads, railways, trade and transport meant that many parts of the country were out of reach of the state, the national rule of law and way of life.
It is still evident that many parts of rural France in departements such as the Lot in the South West, were and are relatively poor. But what visitors, tourists and incomers view as a rural idyll, was inevitably for many of the local population an unbearably hard existence with little opportunity or inclination to enjoy the view, the peacefulness or nature. This was all compounded by the isolation imposed by the landscape and lack of means or affordability of transport.
I suspect that there is a similar story to be told of parts of the UK, but given the sheer size and nature of the topography of France, it was obviously much more widespread.
The book may not provide all the answers to the infuriating contradictions that the French display, but it is an entertaining and enlightening read, which will help anyone trying to understand our neighbours.
Thoroughly recommended reading in my view!
Illuminating, engrossing and full of surprises, “The Discovery of France” is a literary exploration of a country few will recognize; from maps and migration to magic, language and landscape, it’s a book that reveals the ‘real’ past of France to tell the whole story - and history - of this remarkable nation. ‘With gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people, places and customs, Robb, on brilliant form, takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of France’ - “Independent”. ‘Certain books strain the patience of those close to you. How many times can you demand: ‘Look at this! Can you imagine? Did you know that?’ without actually handing over the volume? This is such a book’ - “Mail on Sunday”. ‘An extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair traveller’ - “Daily Telegraph”.
| September 19, 2008 | to | September 21, 2008 |
In Chenove (Cote d’Or, Bourgogne) they celebrate the wine press from 19-21 September 2008 - Fete de la Pressee
Some of the first wooden wine presses in France were constructed here in the 13th Century, and some of them are huge - capable of grapes to produce 23,000 litres of wine!
Over the three days they get one of these mighty machines working (it is harvest time after all) and supply the usual jollity, ceremony, music, dancing and the opportuinity to try good local food and wine!
For more info see www.ville-chenove.fr
| September 20, 2008 | to | September 21, 2008 |
The weekend of 20/21 September 2008 are designated as European Heritage Days (Journees European du Patrimoine), an event which the French approach with huge enthusiasm, Naturally proud of their history, heritage and local traditions, this annual weekend offers all manner of insights into French life and culture - whether it be artists, architecture, craft skills, food and wine production.
For example you could visit a Paris Bus Interchange at Montrouge, and learn something of the history and future of bus travel; In Brittany at
La Bosse de Bretagne (Ille-et-Vilaine) you can catch demonstrations of the skill of the stonemason; in Marseille there is a display and explanation of Le Corbusier’s approach to town planning. In fact in almost every corner of France you will find some special event which will enlighten and entertain. - consult the local tourist office or the national website (in French), where there is a searchable map of all the events and timings at www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr
The Lascaux Cave at Montignac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) is rightly considered the most spectacular example of pre-historic cave painting in the World. Its fame and popularity led to the creation of a facsimile cave (Lascaux II opened in 1983) nearby to avoid further damage to the fragile environment of the original cave and paintings which had remained undisturbed for centuries until discovered in 1940. Two areas have been painstakingly and faithfully reproduced - the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery.
However, even the facsimile Lascaux II is now facing the need to close for 2-3 months each winter for the next few years for essential maintenance - perhaps it was too good a copy!
The key thing to remember is that you do really need to book in advance if you want to visit - numbers are limited and it is probably one of the most popular tourist sights in France.
For more info see www.culture.gouv.fr
Every night until 20 September 2008 the stunning Chartes Cathedral (27 Eure, Normandie) and nearly 20 other landmarks in the medieval town will be illuminated from dusk as part of the Chartres en Lumieres (Lights of Chartres) festival.
Together with themed and co-ordinated music the main facades of the gothic cathedral will be lit, as will some of the streets and the banks and bridges of the Eure river which runs through the town.
The Cathedral is often visible from some distance away in daylight across this rather flat part of southern Normandy, and should look even more impressive at night.
The Cathedral, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site has to be one of the “must see” destinations for any visitor to France. Started in the 12th Century it is considered the best Gothic cathedral in the whole of France.
For more info see www.chartres-tourisme.com
| June 14, 2008 | ||
| June 15, 2008 |
Throughout France over a weekend in June (14 -15th June 2008) there will be thousands of sites open to the public to celebrate national Journée du Patrimoine (Heritage Days) and Journée des Moulins (Mill Days).
Over 1,500 events are planned with open days, demonstrations of traditional crafts and skills, exhibitions, tastings - with this year’s theme being centred on “places of production” - agricultural, craft and industrial - some still working businesses.
So you can visit working farms, water mills, have a guided tour of a village to discover its history and heritage, visit an old Railway goods shed, an old tile works, a quarry, a vineyard, a working windmill, a brickworks, see some architectural conservation in progress, an working nut/oil mill, visit a cabinetmaker’s workshop, see bread making, painting and photographic exhibitions….
This is just a selection of the 58 events in one small département (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) - too many to list here. Best advice is to check with the local tourist office- or browse the list of events (in French) at www.journeedupatrimoinedepays.com
| June 12, 2008 | ||
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| June 14, 2008 |
The Chateau of Chantilly (60 Oise, Picardie) hosts an International Firework Festival in the grounds 12-14 June 2008.
With at least 11 displays of pyrotechnic spectacles designed by some of the top firework display designers in the world - there are strict rules as in any serious competition - some elements against prescribed music, some silent, some freestyle - all against the backdrop of the historic Chateau, its lakes and formal gardens.
Doors open at 8.00pm and a full evening of entertainment is promised - it should be illuminating!
For more info see www.nuitsdefeu.com/ - there is a video showing the preparations and some idea of what to expect.
| June 6, 2008 | ||
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| June 8, 2008 |
We tend to think of the Rose as a quintessentially English flower, but the French have their moments. Avignon (84 Vaucluse, Provence) celebrates the rose with its Altera Rosa Festival in May, whilst in the north the Royal Abbey of Chaalis near Senlis (60 Oise, Picardie) throws its own Rose festival in June
Chaalis Abbey was a French Cistercian abbey founded in 1136 by Louis VI of Franc. There had previously been a Benedictine monastery in the same place.
The Journees de la Rose festival runs from 6-8 June in the delightful (and usually peaceful) gardens of the abbey - you’ll be greeted by a vast display of roses, be able to talk to rose experts, see an exhibition of photos and attend workshops on perfume and flower arranging.
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| June 14, 2008 |
2000 years ago over 1000 people worked for 5 years on the construction of the Pont du Gard, near Remoulins (30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon).The objective was to bring water to the city of Nîmes via a 50km long aqueduct.
From 5 June - 14 June 2008 a firework and light show is planned to enhance the ancient Roman aqueduct with a nighttime concert under the title Lux Populi (theres a joke in the name!) - and as ever for the French the whole event is embellished with lyric poetry:
Costumed with light, they play with flames and with fire, fly through the air, walk on the water and project their most secret thoughts on the landscape. Who are they? They go by the name of ‘Les Regardons’! This new species-half human and half flame-can transform space. In 2007, they put on an amazing light show at the Pont du Gard. They liked the place and they’re coming back again like migrant birds. Perhaps they have chosen to return to reproduce? In any case, their dance of love and fire, their successful or missed meetings and their magical or scientific experiments form the opening of a saga that traces the myths and fantasies of the Pont du Gard: ‘Lux Populi’. The season opens with the first episode entitled « The Flame of my dreams ». On with the show
Well, whatever, it does promise to be quite a spectacle - a mix of a Son-et-Lumière, Circus and Music! From 10.30pm on 5,6,7,12,13 and 14 June 2008 - entry by ticket either in the stand or on the beach!
For more info see www.pontdugard.fr
We can also recommend a very handy good B&B nearby at Les Alouettes
See below a short video of the last show in 2007 -
Spectacle_de_nuit_2008
Uploaded by EPCCPONTDUGARD
The Independent’s Simon Calder narrates an interesting and informative Podcast which you can download and take with you to the cosmopolitan city of Nice, an easy option with many budget airlines flying in from numerous UK airports - or take the TGV from London!
Beginning in the Promenade des Anglais, Simon Calder explores the Matisse Museum and admires the beautiful views of the hills of Provence. He also samples the region’s cuisine, trying traditional corn pancakes and dining at the luxurious Aphrodite restaurant, before tasting some locally produced wine.
The local wine is called Bellet AOC.The vineyards lie within the city limits in the hills above the town. Seldom seen in the UK, the whites are made from Rolle and some Chardonnay with Folle Noir for the reds with some Grenache and Cinsault. Rosé comes from Braquet and Cinsault. Yapp Brothers stock the Bellet AC wines of Domaine de la Source - the rosé 2007 being “a dry and fruity rosé with aromas of wild roses. On the palate, red berry flavours precede a clean, dry finish.”, whilst the 2007 Blanc is described as “An esoteric dry white wine with subtle hints of Provençal pine. The wine displays aromas of pear and wild flowers when young and quince and toasted almonds when it reaches maturity. The dry but fruity palate has balanced acidity and good fruit characteristics, preceding an alluring dry finish.”
Some Links:
Hi Hotel
Musée Matisse in Nice
Aphrodite Restaurant
Nice Official Tourist Office
If you are visiting the southern Rhone, one site you must not miss is the fantastic Roman aqueduct - a three-level bridge across the Gard river carrying both road and water. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is one of France’s top five visitor attractions,
It is a truly impressive site - but you probably need to get there early to enjoy the place without too many crowds.
Nearby you could stay at Brigitte’s B&B at Les Alouettes near Uzes (30 Gard) -
See map
For more info on the Pont du Gard see www.pontdugard.fr
For more on Brigitte’s B&B at Les Allouettes………… Read more on this…
Although I find French antique furniture a bit overwhelming, it is probably because modern houses seldom offer the space to do it justice. Whereas in many French houses with their generous dimensions and often higher ceilings they can look really impressive, and reassuringly solid and almost timeless. However, I get totally confused by the different styles between the King Louis and other periods, so it was good to find Déja Vu Antiques a specialist UK importer of French antique furniture who offers some succinct descriptions of the periods and a wide range of quality furnitire for sale in the UK.
Louis X1V, the Sun King 1643 - 1715 influenced the Baroque style in furniture during the earlier part of his reign which later developed into the Regence style. Baroque was large, masculine, and symmetrical. Regence was characterized by its use of curves and introduction of Chinoiserie.
Louis XV 1715 - 1774 the style of furniture was essentially Rococo with soft, flowing lines, ornamentation was usually done with rocks, shells, flowers, rich upholstery. inlaying and the painting of furniture. Rococo focused on the aristocratic life and on lighthearted romance.The word Rococo is seen as a combination of the French rocaille, or shell, and the Italian barocco, or Baroque style.
Louis XV1 1774 - 1792 the main characteristics of this style being rectangular lines, architectural ornamentation, classic symmetry and marquetry. In the furniture there is an emphasis on straight lines and right angles, moveing away from the curves of the Rococo. Furniture becomes restrained in its form and decoration, with the use of fluted columns, carved friezes, oak and laurel leafs, the Greek band, and other various neo classical attempts to imitate the furniture and architecture of the Romans and Greeks.
Directoire style, about the time of the Directory (1795–99) from which the name is derived. A style transitional between Louis XVI and Empire, it is characterized by a departure from the sumptuousness of the aristocratic regime. Furniture became more angular and severe; marquetry was replaced by large surfaces of painted and waxed wood.
Empire Style. The early 1800s period of Napoleonic rule was that of the Neoclassical style that characterizes artistic creations of the era. Antique forms already seen in the Louis XVI style blended with Napoleon’s imperial symbols, which included the bee, the letter N surrounded by a laurel wreath, stars, the eagle and exotic hieroglyphic motifs from the Egyptian campaign. Empress Joséphine was extremely fond of swans and had pure black swans imported from Australia to swim in her lake. This fondness reflects also in the period and can be seen on the chair arms, curtains, carpets, and porcelain in the staterooms of Chateau de Malmaison, her home in the suburbs of Paris.
Deja vu Antiques is situated in Leigh on Sea, Essex in the south-east of England, approximately 35 miles from London and easily accessible from all major airports being only 25 minutes from the M25 London orbital motorway.
Major dealers in 18th and 19th century French antique furniture. Stock includes includes:-
French antique beds
complete bedroom suites
king-size beds
gilt mirrors
painted furniture
armoires
antique chandeliers and lighting
French country antiques and other collectable items.
French antique furniture is interesting because of its very wide variety; the period styles range from Renaissance though Louis XV to Napoleon III. and all are strikingly different. There is an amazing blend of styles from the various regions and periods of time. The French were great artisans especially in terms of their fine carvings.
French furniture, beds, armoires and complete late 19th century bedroom furniture tended to be made in a wide range of woods such as walnut, cherry, chestnut and oak that are very durable as well as beautiful. These woods exhibit a wonderful patina over the years.
Deja Vu Antiques work closely with many discerning clients and interior designers in providing individual painted armoires and other pieces of hand painted french furniture and antiques to create “that very special look”. Additionally to add a final touch to any room, they have a fine selection of crystal antique chandeliers together with antique gilt mirrors.
For more info see Deja Vu Antiques at www.deja-vu-antiques.co.uk
876 London Road,
Leigh on Sea, Essex SS9 3NQ
Telephone +44 (0) 1702 470829
For some Canadian friends we put together some ideas from our experience to demonstrate how best to do a few days wine touring in the southern Rhône Valley. This is such a rich area to visit - scenically, historically and from a wine (and food) perspective.
We chose to base the tour in St Remy de Provence (13, Bouches-du-Rhône, Provence) a few miles south of Avignon for easy access to Les Baux de Provence, Beaumes-de-Venise, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Cairanne, Lirac, Tavel and Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Others will choose different start points and other vineyards - importantly we think wine tours need to be paced, as an over-indulgence can dull the senses and diminish the enjoyment. And there are so many other things to do in the region, as well as just relax in the delightful climate and atmosphere of Provence.
For more info see www.frenchduck.co.uk
* Basilique et colline de Vézelay (1979) 89, Yonne, Burgundy _ Basilica and Hill
* Cathédrale de Chartres (1979)
* Mont-Saint-Michel et sa baie (1979) including the bay
* Palais et parc de Versailles (1979) Palace and park
* Sites préhistoriques et grottes ornées de la vallée de la Vézère (1979) - prehistoric sites and caves in the Vezere valley in the Dordogne
* Abbaye cistercienne de Fontenay (1981) Cistercian Abbey
* Arles, monuments romains et romans (1981) monuments
* Cathédrale d’Amiens (1981) cathedral
* Palais et parc de Fontainebleau (1981) palace and park
* Théâtre antique et ses abords et « Arc de Triomphe » d’Orange (1981)- the ampitheatre and Triumphant Arch
* Saline royale d’Arc-et-Senans (1982) Royal Salt Works
* Abbatiale de Saint-Savin sur Gartempe (1983) Abbey
* Golfe de Porto : calanche de Piana, golfe de Girolata, réserve de Scandola (1983) #
* Places Stanislas, de la Carrière et d’Alliance à Nancy (1983) City squares
* Pont du Gard (1985)
* Strasbourg – Grande île (1988)
* Cathédrale Notre-Dame, ancienne abbaye Saint-Remi et palais de TauReims (1991) Cathedral, Abbey and Palace
* Paris, rives de la Seine (1991) - banks of the Seine
* Cathédrale de Bourges (1992) Cathedral
* Centre historique d’Avignon : Palais des papes, ensemble Episcopal et Pont d’Avignon (1995) Popes’ Palace and the Avignon bridge
* Canal du Midi (1996)
* Pyrénées - Mont Perdu (1997, 1999) *
* Ville fortifiée historique de Carcassonne (1997) 11, Aude, Languedoc - fortified medieval city
* Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle en France (1998) - the pilgrim routes across France towards St Jean de Compostelle
* Site historique de Lyon (1998) - historic centre
* Beffrois de Belgique et de France (1999, 2005) * 20 (Aire-sur-la-Lys, Armentières, Arras,, Bailleul, Bergues, Béthune, Boulogne-sur-Mer, Calais, Cambrai, Comines, Douai, Dunkerque (Dunkirk), Gravelines,Hesdin,Lille, Loos, Abbeville, Amiens, Doullens, Lucheux, Rue, St Riquier (belfries of Northern France and Picardie - and Belgium)
* Juridiction de Saint-Émilion (1999)
* Val de Loire entre Sully-sur-Loire et Chalonnes (2000) The Loire Valley between Sully and Chalonnes
* Provins, ville de foire médiévale (2001) medieval fair town
* Le Havre, la ville reconstruite par Auguste Perret (2005) - the rebuilt city centre
One of the features of the South West of France is the predominance of bastide towns - fortified villages which huddle together often at the top of a hill, and which prove quite effective at repelling unwanted invaders - historically mainly the English or the French, depending on which part of the country you were in and when. Bastide towns are characterised by a grid of narrow streets, closely packed houses and usually an impressive open square (place) with arcades round 4 sides and will often include a covered market hall. Over 300 were built over 150 years from the beginning of the 13th century. 
Monflanquin (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) is one of the best preserved - although it is a living village not a museum or tourist attraction. And it does have its market day (Thursdays) and during the summer months there is also an evening market (marche nocturne) in the Place des Arcades.
Also in Monflanquin is the Musee des Bastides - see www.cc-monflanquinois.fr/musee_bastides.htm, an interesting little museum explaining the development and philosophy of the bastides - visit the museum and then see the real thing!
Monflanquin is recognised as one of the “Plus Beaux Villages de France” (most beautiful French villages)
