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The Vignerons Independents, the body representing independent winemakers, holds a number of wine fairs (Salons) in Spring and Autumn each year, which are open to the public and give you the opportunity to taste from a wide selection of vineyards from every region of France, meet the winemakers and purchase wines at cellar door prices.

For autumn 2008 the dates are as follows:-

30 Oct - 3 Nov 2008 - Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) - Hall Tony Garnier

7 - 10 Nov 08 - Reims ( 51 Marne, Champagne) - Parc des Expositions

14-17 Nov 08 - Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) - Grand Palais

27 Nov - 1 Dec 08- Paris (75 Paris, Ile de France) - Porte de Versailles

For more info see www.vigneron-independant.com (in French)

If you are visiting Lille, there is a good B&B on the tram route to the city centre - see Alix’s Garden

Its “Portes Ouvertes” in the Medoc on 12-13 April 2008. In this famous and celebrated wine region numerous chateaux will be holding open house in the prime appellations of Medoc, Haut-Medoc, St Estephe, Pauillac, Moulis-en-Medoc, Listrac-Medoc and Margaux.
This prized area which stretches north from Bordeaux up to the Pointe de Grave between the Atlantic and the mouth of the Gironde is home to some of the best wines in the world, so any opportunity to visit and taste is a great opportunity.
However, you are unlikely to be offered a sip of the finest old vintages, but samples of the latest 2007 vintage will be available in its very young and rather green and tannic state.
Many of the Chateaux are also hosting other events alongside the tastings - music, art or photography exhibitions and food in various forms. Just visiting these chateaux should be an experience, and tastings should be interesting!

For more info see www.pauillac-medoc.com

I have previously been a little cynical about the tendancy of the French to imbue elements of their gastronomic heritage with just a tad too much pomp and often doubtful history and ceremonials. If they had such things, I am sure there would be the equivalent of “The Worshipful Company of the Most Glorious and Authentic Pickled Onion or Shallot”, (oignons conservés au vinaigre?) enriched by elaborate costumes and rituals - and a history dating back to 1992! Having said that I admire their pride in their local produce and agree that it should be celebrated.

However, one august body to which my fond cynicism should not apply is the Jurade de St Emilion, who do have elaborate red robes, a spectacular procession through the town and a banquet which does justice to the fine wines of St Emilion. Every autumn they celebrate their “Ban des Vendanges” to mark the official start of the grape harvest, and many years ago I was lucky enough to accompany members of the Jurade on an extensive itinerary of tastings, a series of lavish meals with grand cru wines and the grand banquet. Although we were often only tasting young wines at the chateaux, some wonderful and mature vintages were brought out for the banquet.

As Timothy Hartley kindly informs me, the Jurade de St Emilion has a rich and important history in the development of the wines of St Emilion:
LA JURADE DE SAINT-ÉMILION

The roots of the Jurade lie deep in both French and English history - as its Arms, Great Seal and banners, which bear both the Lilies of France and the Lions of England, show. Saint-Émilion, together with the rest of Acquitaine, formed part of the dowry of Eleanor of Acquitaine on her marriage to King Henry II. The Jurade goes back at least as far as 1199, when their son, King John, confirmed privileges apparently earlier granted by Richard, Coeur de Lion. Saint-Émilion became effectively a free City under the Crown with the Jurade having control of its legal and economic affairs. The Jurats’ duties included the control of production, and sale of, wine, closely monitoring its quality, branding approved casks and destroying any which were unworthy. Under Edward I, in 1289, the area of the Jurisdiction was enlarged to cover what is still the wine growing area composing the appellations of Saint Émilion. In return for these privileges, the Crown required that regular, and very large consignments, of wine be tasted, judged, its good quality assured, and then be consigned to England in casks quality assured by the Jurade’s seal. After Saint-Émilion reverted to the French Crown, the Jurade’s rights and duties were confirmed by French Royal Charters but, in the French Revolution, Jurats lost both their heads and their privileges.
The Jurade no longer has its extensive former civic and legal powers but its Grand Council still sits once a year, in Spring, to conduct a blind tasting of the wines of Saint-Émilion to assess their merits and pronounce a Jugement du Vin Nouveau. In September, it authorises the start of picking, in a ceremonial Ban des Vendanges from the top of the Tour du Roi, the Jurats wearing the scarlet and white robe of their mediaeval predecessors and calling upon their spirits to witness the continuation of over 800 years of tradition, passion, experience and skill.
The Jurade honours its historic links by giving us the privilege of two Chancelleries, based in the two ancient leading cities of England, York, serving the north of England and Scotland, and London, for the south of England and Wales. They organise tastings for those who would like to know more about the Jurisdiction’s wines, often in combination with charitable fund raising. They also arrange visits to Saint-Emilion for members of the Association de la Jurade in England for the important festivals in Saint-Emilion’s calendar, the Fête de Printemps and the Ban des Vendanges. More information about their activities, and contact details, are on their website - www.jurade.org.uk. They are always happy to welcome new members and to introduce them to Saint-Émilion’s renowned hospitality, its beauty and its enormous range of wines.

St Emilion produces some of the best Bordeaux red wines, wines which in the Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes dominate. The town and vineyards of St Emilion (33, Gironde, Aquitaine) are to my mind the most interesting to visit, the town being on an outcrop and the vineyards stretching down to the Dordogne river. The Spring celebration “Fete de Printemps” takes place on the 3rd Sunday in June, whilst the harvest celebration “Ban des Vendanges” takes place on the 3rd Sunday in September.

For more info on St Emilion see www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com

UPDATE: The St Emilion Ban des Vendanges takes place on Sunday 21 September 2008

For a classy B&B in the region see www.chezkelly.eu

According to the Independent the Beaujolais region is effectively enjoying a climate equivalent to that 100 kilometres further south compared to 20 years ago. This also means that grape harvest is starting earlier, and hence the wines are no longer quite so “nouveau” when bottled, which should allow for a touch more maturity and finesse in the wines.
On the eve of the launch of Beaujolais Nouveau 2007, there is some thoughtful analysis of the issues facing the winemakers of Beaujolais:-

Beaujolais, however, is starting to fight back. For the first time this year a substantial amount of a Beaujolais Nouveau rosé will be sold. There is also a significant drive to improve quality.

“We were carried away with the euphoria,” said Dominique Piron, a wine producer and trader at Morgon, in the northern part of the beautiful Beaujolais hills, just north west of Lyons. “The more mass-produced forms of Beaujolais Nouveau were sometimes, frankly, bad and damaged the image not only of Nouveau but of all types of Beaujolais.

“Worse than that, the fad for Nouveau meant that even the better forms of Beaujolais, the ten ‘crus’ such as Morgon, Fleurie, Chiroubles, were made in the light, ‘nouveau’ style, without the richness and subtlety that good Beaujolais should always have.

Beaujolais Nouveau rosé is not something I have tried, but given the rise in popularity and availability of rosé wines on the shelves then a rosé may be a more attractive option - I shall obviously have to experiment!

Nick Dobson Wines still has some traditional Beaujolais Nouveau and Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau available if you are quick - plus he has written about his trip to the region last week - see www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk

In the southern Cotes du Rhone a series of Jazz concerts at vineyards is now available – sounds an ideal combination of sensual music, verdant surroundings and an opportunity to taste good wines. Furthermore as the autumn approaches the autumnal colours of the vine leaves can produce a wonderful symphony of red and brown hues.

On 1st September 2007 the venue is Domaine Berthet-Rayne at Cairanne (84 Vaucluse, Provence) one of the named Cotes du Rhone Villages. In the UK the Sussex Wine Company stocks this wine “Berthet Rayne’s Cairanne is a rich spicy traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre with much of the fruit coming from very old vines indeed.”

In October the venue is Visan one of the lesser-known village appellations to the north of Cairanne. Great Western Wine stocks Domaine de la Guitrady, Cotes du  Rhone Villages Visan AC – “The promising inky black colour is the introduction to a stunning bouquet of black fruits, violets and hickory. Rich and velvet smooth on the palate with complex layers of peppery flavours”

November the venue is back in Cairanne at Domaine Brusset – a domaine which receives high praise from Andrew Jefford’s The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)

For dates see www.frenchduck.co.ukand details of the venues and artists see www.jazzdanslesvignes.com

Nimes (30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon) like many towns and cities on or close to the Mediterranean coast, has a long tradition of bullfighting and many of their festivities are centred around the “corridas”..

Most Brits will find the idea very unappealling, but that is no reason to avoid the whole of these festivals, as they are but one element of the events, and what you will miss is a tremendous festive Mediterranean atmosphere.

19–21 September 2008 are the dates for the Feria des Vendanges (Wine harvest) A Feria is a feast day often associated with bulls in the south of France.

7-12 May 2008 are the dates for the Feria de Pentecote

Anthony Peregrine in the Telegraph (22 Aug 2007) provides an excellent introduction and guide to the city of Nimes and its nearby attractions such as the Pont du Gard.

From the point of view of wine, Nimes lies on the boundary between the Provence, Languedoc and Rhone, which is also reflected in the style of the local wines. But the Costieres de Nimes AC is classified as part of the Rhone appellations. The grape varieties for the red and rosé wines are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault. For the white wines: White Grenache, Marsanne, Roussane as well as Clairette, Bourboulenc, Maccabeo and Rolle.

Well worth a visit would be the Chateau de la Tuilerie just to the south of Nimes where Chantal Comte produces some excellent wines – a good tasting room experience is guaranteed – and they even have their own helicopter landing pad if you are planning to arrive in style!

For more info on Nimes see http://www.ot-nimes.fr/

Fougerolles (70 Saone, Rhone-Alpes) is situated at the north of the Haute-Saône, at the foot of the “balloon” of the Vosges southwest of Alsace, reserves for itself the title of Pays de la Cerise – mainly for the production of Kirsch, which is a clear pure brandy made from cherries – not to be confused with Cherry Brandy which is a sweetened, flavoured version of simple grape brandy.

Kirsch is made from pressing the fruit, adding the ground cherry stones and allowing it all to ferment. The stones add a characteristically bitter note to the spirit, and also contain minute quantities of cyanide! The liquid is then heated in a still to distill the alcoholic spirit and then aged for a short time in glass “bonbons” or steel or earthenware vats so that the spirit remains colourless.

Often used as to provide an additional punch to desserts, it can also be taken lightly chilled as a refreshing after-dinner tipple – but preferably in small quantities.

This is one of those lesser-known parts of France – not really on any of the main routes to anywhere, and the proximity of the Vosges mountains limits a speedy transit of the region. But it may well be worth visiting in early July for the annual Fete des Cerises which celebrates the beginning of the harvest – or in September there is an annual fair of Cherry Dougnuts (Foire aux Beignets de Cerises) and Kirsch tastings which sounds like fun. (held on 21 September in 2008)

For more info see http://www.otsi-fougerolles.net

A Côtes de Duras Sauvignon was one of the first wines we purchased when we set up Allez Vins! – yipes that was 20 years ago.

It was for me something of a discovery that you could get clean crisp Sauvignon Blanc without having to pay Sancerre prices. OK they often lack the minerally complexity of good Sancerre, but they are good little wines. As the by-line on the Côtes de Duras logo says – “A small appellation, but a great terroir!”

Duras (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Auquitaine) in South West France lies to the south of Bergerac, east of Bordeaux and north of the Côtes du Marmandais, and all produce Bordeaux blend wines (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for the reds and rosés; Sauvignon, Muscadelle and Sémillon for the whites) – but it is probably here in Duras that the best Sauvignon Blancs are grown.

We imported the wines of Chateau la Petite Bertrande in the 1990s – then a modest little domaine with some really excellent wines. They now have a new and rather good website which has a lot of decent information.

“12 hectares of sauvignon, sémillon and muscadelle, constituting the traditional grape varieties of the region, give dry white wines of great quality.
Regarding the reds, they are elaborated from 13 hectares of merlot, cabernet-sauvignon, cabernet-franc and malbec. After a wine making process separate as we go along the harvest and according to their maturity, this blend gives to these wines a balance and a fullness of a great regularity as vintage years go by.”

Their dry white Sauvignon is excellent, but then too so is the Red Cuvée Classique, which is oak-aged and surprisingly good. They also make an oaked white Sauvignon Blanc, but I am not a great fan of this style of wine which seems a contradiction between the fruity crispness of the grape and the rich, butteriness of the oak.

Unfortunately no outlets in the UK at the moment - but visitors are welcome at the Chateau for tasting and buying - except weekends.

One opportunity to taste their wines will be at the 2007 Côtes de Duras Wine Festival which is held on 12 August – see www.frenchduck.co.uk

They also have a gite on the vineyard which is available to rent.

For more on the Domaine see www.chateau-lapetitebertrande.com

For more on the wines of the Côtes de Duras see www.cotesdeduras.com

The village of Cairanne (84 Vaucluse, Provence) in the southern Rhône Valley holds its 33^rd Annual Wine Festival on Sunday 22 July 2007 (4pm-10pm) – the usual shindig with plenty of wine stalls, a Provencal market with over 50 stands, some music and plenty of opportunity to try out the local wines.

An interesting aspect is the invitation to the producers of another wine region to be the “guest appellation” and for 2007 it is the turn of Bandol AC, from the mediterranean coast east of Marseille - rich heavy reds which major on the Mourvedre grape.

Cairanne has an excellent co-operative Cave de Cairanne - Leon Stolarski stocks some of their range, and I can particularly recommend the Cuvée Voconces - “Aromas of stewed fruits and Christmas cake and smoky “garrigue”. Rich, dark, sweet and sour fruit flavours, a hint of peppery spice and a superb finish. Quintessential Cairanne.”
There are also a number of really good independent producers - A recent recommendation from a French wine merchant whose tastes I rate was for the wines of Domaine de Delubac - Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages AC Les Bruneau

available in the UK from the Halifax Wine Company: “Red and black fruits with a peppery and spicy personality - lots of rich, elegant complexity and a big mellow aftertaste. I think this is brilliant.”

The red wines of Cairanne are rich and spicy being grown on the hillsides around the village - with a minimum of 50% Grenache in the blend together with Syrah, Mourvedre and the other southern Rhône varietals.

For more on the Cairanne Wine Festival see www.vignerons-cairanne.com/

Evening Jazz concerts in the vineyards of the Southern Rhone

1 September 2007 – Cairanne

27 October 2007 – Visan

17 November 2007 – Cairanne

For more info see www.frenchduck.com

Pouilly-sur-Loire (58 Nievre, Bourgogne), best known for its crisp Sauvignon Pouilly-Fumé wines, celebrates its wine festival on the banks of the Loire.
For more info see www.ot-pouillysurloire.fr

A helpful French wine label at last!

I have long been frustrated at the vagaries of French wine labelling regulations for Appellation Controllee wines,which arrogantly assume that the consumer knows that Sancerre is made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis from Chardonnay and Madiran from Tannat etc.

Hence a frisson of excitement to discover a Cahors AC (South West France) from one of the top Chateaux offering a wine called “le Malbec”. Now admittedly some of the best Cahors wines are made from a blend where Malbec (locally known as Cot or Auxerrois) grapes dominate, but 100% Malbecs are becoming more fashionable. The wine in question comes from the Chateau de Chambert, previously stocked by Allez Vins! But this 100% Malbec is packaged and priced as a little downmarket - clear bottle, funky font and modern front label. Of course, what we see as the front label is technically the back label, as all the legal stuff about its status (Appellation Cahors Controllee) is on the front label (yes - I am confused too). But it is a pleasant little wine, and hooray for some consumer-friendly packaging (albeit in French).
A similar wine is produced by Georges Vigouroux - his Pigmentum (named for its intense black colour) has a bit more body and smoothness - stocked byAdvintage wines)
However, for a real contrast try to get hold of a bottle of Chateau les Hauts d’Aglan’s Cuvee “A” - also made of 100% Malbec with no oak and no filtering - but rather than a “second” wine, Isabelle Rey-Auriat rightly has her wine at the very top of her range - rich,smooth and well-structured.
Of course, Argentina is now providing stiff competition for Malbec wines - my own experience suggests that the South American versions have wonderfully ripe upfront fruit, but lack the tremendous depth and complexity of the Cahors wines. In many ways they do not compete head to head - they really are quite different styles of wine. Personally I like the tannic structure of good Cahors, where the tannins have softened by continue to give the wine some backbone. But then, I have often been told that my tastes are a little “individual”!

If you are in the region (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) then you can visit the Fete des Vins du Pays du Lot the Lot Valley wine festival held at the Chateau la Coste at Grezels, west of Cahors. There will be local Vins de Pays (red, white and rose) and local food products for tasting and buying - and you could join a vineyard walk of 8km (or a shorter 3km version) - on Sunday 24 June 2007.

Links -
Frenchduck.co.uk on Cahors
Chateau de Chambert
Cahors Wine website
Georges Vigoroux

Alsace (France) has a rich wine heritage, and throughout the summer and autumn celebrates the fruit of the vine with various Festivals, markets and other jollities where you can meet with winemakes, taste and buy their wines - or just enjoy the music and atmosphere.

For more info see www.vinsalsace.com

July 7th Nuit du vin DAMBACH-LA-VILLE (BAS-RHIN)
July 14th and 15th Fête des vins PFAFENHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
From July 13th to July 15th Foire aux vins BARR (BAS-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Fête du Pinot Noir RODERN (HAUT-RHIN)
July 20th Nuit des Grands Crus EGUISHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Husseren en fête HUSSEREN /CHATEAUX (HAUT-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Foire aux vins BLIENSCHWILLER (BAS-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Foire aux vins RIBEAUVILLE (HAUT-RHIN)
July 28th and 29th Fête du vin WETTOLSHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
July 28th and 29th Fête du vin MITTELBERGHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
July 28th and 29th Fête du Gewurztraminer BERGHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
August 2nd and 9th Du cep au verre BLIENSCHWILLER (BAS-RHIN)
August 3rd Nuit du Nectar OBERMORSCHWIHR (HAUT-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Fête du vin au pays du Brand TURCKHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Fête du vin ANDLAU (BAS-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Folles nuits du Crémant CLEEBOURG (BAS-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Arts, Vins, Foie gras, Folklore EPFIG (BAS-RHIN)
From August 10th to August Foire aux vins OBERNAI (BAS-RHIN)
15th
From August 10th to August Foire régionale des vins d’Alsace COLMAR (HAUT-RHIN)
19th
August 11th and 12th Fête du Klevener HEILIGENSTEIN (BAS-RHIN)
August 11th and12th Fête du Silberberg RORSCHWIHR (HAUT-RHIN)
August 14th (19.30 pm), « Wielada » ZELLENBERG (HAUT-RHIN)
and August 15th (17.30pm)
August 14th and 15th Eurovin DAMBACH-LA-VILLE (BAS-RHIN)
August 14th and 15th Mariage de l’ami Fritz MARLENHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
August 18th and 19th Fête des portes des caves ouvertes GUEBERSCHWIHR (HAUT-RHIN)
August 25th and 26th Fête des vignerons EGUISHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
September 2nd Fête des Ménétriers RIBEAUVILLE (HAUT-RHIN)
September 23rd Fête des vendanges CLEEBOURG (BAS-RHIN)
September 23rd and 30th Fête du vin nouveau ST HIPPOLYTE (HAUT-RHIN)
2September 29th and 30th Fête du vin nouveau WISSEMBOURG (BAS-RHIN)
September 30th Fête d’Automne WINTZENHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
September 5th and October 7th Fête des vendanges BARR (BAS-RHIN)
October 7th Fête du Vin nouveau STEINSELTZ (BAS-RHIN)
October 13th and 14th Grande Fête du Raisin MOLSHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
October 14th Fête du vin nouveau MITTELBERGHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
October 14th Fête du vin nouveau ITTERSWILLER (BAS-RHIN)
October 20th and 21st Fête d’Automne OBERNAI (BAS-RHIN)
October 21st Fête des vendanges MARLENHEIM (BAS-RHIN)