Set in the heart of the Rhône Valley north of Avignon, the self-styled Capitale des Fraises (Strawberry Capital) indulges itself in everything to do with the Strawberry

Come revel in the first warm spring days, and discover the charms of the village of Velleron, amidst gorgeous scents of strawberries. See the Confrérie de la Fraise (The Brotherhood of the Strawberry!) and attend the inductions of local and not-so-local celebrities  Tastings, sales, concerts, flea market and rummage sale, nearly 150 stands, all the strawberries you could hope to see. A memorable day. Free entrance, free parking, and lots of free events and fun during the day throughout the village.

Velleron is also famous for its Farmers Market (Marché Agricole) held most evenings in Summer (Tuesday, Friday and Saturdays) from 4.30pm when local farmers and smallholders turn up with their battered vans and tractors and sell direct to the public from the tailgate or rickety table some of the freshest fruit, vegetables, oils, wines etc – well worth a visit and  a great alternative to the hypermarket!

For more info on Velleron see www.velleron.fr

Within a short distance of the village is l’Isle-sur-Sorgues with its pretty canals encircling the town and its famouse Antiques market;  Fontaine de Vaucluse – an impressive spring in the rocks (except there was a drought when I visited!) – Avignon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape etc

Over the 2 days you can taste wines direct from the producer and attend numerous masterclasses to enhance your appreciaton of wine. Unusually there is also a selection of Italian wines available to try. Bordeaux Chateau such as Chateau Laroze (St Emilion) will be there as well as producers from Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Corsica, Loire and Rhône etc.

Carrousel du Louvre , 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris – see www.grandtasting.com

…the established showcase of the Minervois, is preparing its annual fortnight-long festival of the senses –
art, culture and fabulous food – all designed to introduce you to the delights of the region.
An astonishing range of activities, from the creative arts, food and wine tastings, evenings of music ranging from jazz to the classics, strolls through the vineyards, cinema , theatre paying tribute to PierrePaul Riquet with Guy Vassal’s play “The Madman of the Canal”, a cabaret evening dining to the poetry of Charles Trenet….You can choose to follow an exciting and varied programme of events; alternatively you are welcome to organise your own tour around the region where a profusion of historic sites, workshops and exhibitions await you.

The programme includes a wide range of open-days at winemakers throughout the region including Minervois AOC, St Jean-de-Minervois and Minervois-la-Lavinière which include some great Languedoc reds, whites and dessert wines.

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

Get the best rates for other hotels in Lille

Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

The Fourme de Montbrison has only a small number of mould veins throughout and has a reddish rind. Its flavour is very mild with light nut and mushroom flavours.

On the weekend of 2-3-4 October 2009 the town of Montbrison celebrates its “Journées de la Fourme”

To accompany this mild cheese the local Cotes du Forez AOC wine which is made from Gamay would make a good choice – and this is also likely to be available to taste on the “Cheese Days”

For more info on Le Forez see www.foreztourisme.fr/

For more info on the cheese see www.fourme-montbrison.com

For more info on the Cotes dy Forez AOC wine see http://cotesduforez.fr

Saumur  (49 Maine et Loire, Pays de Loire)

Where to stay

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Bellevue (above) also offers Tables d’Hote (“host’s table, fixed price menu – booked in advance) – their “Découverte du Terroir’ is something you won’t find in a restaurant.  Carefully selected by Gérald the large plateau of local delicacies and handed down recipes from Grandma ensure a true French supper.  Accompanied by a complimentary bottle of AOC Saumur wine, dine leisurely in the peaceful grounds of ‘the Domaine.

Where to eat (gourmet):

l’Hélianthe (The Helianthos) – for good food and a fabulous setting,  a  “restaurant troglodytique” (set in troglodyte caves).  Highly recommended.

Place Antoine Cristal, Turquant - about 10km south-east of Saumur along the river valley.
T: 02.41.51.22.28

La Licorne – a Michelin starred restaurant serving modern French cuisine  in the historical town of Fontrevraud l’Abbaye (abput 15km southeast of Saumur)

Restaurant la Licorne, Allée Sainet Catherine, Fontrevaud l’Abbaye
T:02.41.51.72.49

Where to eat (value for money):

For a picnic or snack between sight-seeing visits step into any boulangerie for a sandwich, quiche or slice of pizza followed by a mouth watering pastry.

Local food:

The specialty of the Saumur region are les Fouées, hollow unleavened breads filled with rillettes and confit de canard, served hot and accompanied by another specialty, large grilled mushrooms dripping with garlic & parsley butter – yummy !!

Local wine:

Saumur has its own appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC Saumur) and produces a wide variety of wines including sparkling, white, rosé and red.  For those interested in learning more about wine the Beaumonts (above)  offer private wine tours & wine tastings and vineyard visits.

Market:

Saumur hosts a fabulous Saturday morning market full of fresh produce, livestock! and stalls with plenty of goodies you’ll want to take home with you.

Must See:

Château de Saumur – dominates the town of Saumur at the edge of the Loire river
Cadre Noir at the National Equestrian School of the elite French Cavalry
Visit a Loire Valley vineyard
A Loire Valley wine tour & wine tasting

When to come :

Saumur’s Wine Festival “La Marché des Vins de Saumur” which takes place the first weekend in September (4-6 September 2009)

Getting around:

Why not try cycling – the well-established Loire à Velo scheme  which offers cycling along the gentle banks of the Loire  with well-signposted cycle paths and itineraries.

There are also plenty of well-marked footpaths in the area – along the river and away from it – see www.saumur-rando.com (in French)

Local Tourist Office -

and remember this section of the Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site – The Loire Valley is noteworthy for the quality of its architectural heritage, in its historic towns such as Blois, Chinon, Orléans, Saumur, and Tours, but in particular in its world-famous castles, such as the Château de Chambord.

Thanks to Sarah-Jane Beaumont at Le Bellevue for some of these recommendations

The rally (about 9 kilometres) in and around the village encompasses 8 wineries with opportunities to taste and enjoy local foods- olives, olive oil and herbes de provence, cheeses etc – before the evening (6pm) “Ban des Vendanges” – the ceremonial declaration of the start of the 2009 wine harvest. The day concludes with a village feast with music!

Vinsobres is an appellation in its own right (i.e. classified above Côtes du Rhône AC and Côtes du Rhône Villages AC) and produces only red wines from Grenache *at least 50% ), Syrah and/or Mourvedre and is one of the most northerly of the southern Rhône vineyards.

More info on Vinsobres

Lavender is celebrated in Valréas during the first weekend in the month of August. Saturday evening and Monday evening, there is a parade of richly decorated floats, on different themes each year. A lively parade full of fun for the crowds who come to take part in the celebration. Folk dance and music groups, marching bands majorettes lead the way. This year’s theme: countries and their traditions.

This part of Provence sums up the essence of southern France with its wealth of luscious produce – fruits, wine, lavender, truffles – as part of an area known as l’Enclave des Papes (The Popes Enclave)

The Enclave des Papes is happy to offer to its inhabitants and visitors some delicious flavours and pleasant aromas :the Côtes du Rhône wine, the Black Diamond “the truffle”, and the bluish fields of lavender in June…
So many products stemming from our soil gathered on our weekly Provençal markets!

For more info on Vareas and Provence Lavender

Of course Lavender is also grown in the UK as far north as Yorkshire – for example at Wolds Way Lavender near Malton, North Yorkshire – and there have been days this year when NorthYorkshire has been warmer than Provence.

Situated within easy walking distance of the Eiffel Tower and the fabulous market in Rue Cler this area is always the highlight of a Paris visit.
Recommended Reading: Markets of Paris also: The Authentic Bistros of Paris

However, now I hear that during his recent short visit to France, President Obama chose the Fontaine de Mars as the venue for supper. Will it ever be the same again? Will prices now be hiked? Will the clientele be dominated by Americans??Will the menu retain its authenticity?

Restaurant la Fontaine de Mars
129, Rue Saint-Dominique 75007 PARIS  T: 01 47 05 46 44

Paris Tourist Office

See map

Le Weekend in…Eauze

Where to stay? Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet. Domaine de Lauroux, situated 2km from the town of Manciet.where Karen and Richard Kitchener run a wine and Armagnac domaine in the Cotes de Gascogne. Manciet is close to the charming market town of Eauze. Lauroux is a 100 acre award-winning vineyard offering self catering and B&B accommodation together with evening meals

For more info see www.tourisme-gers.com For more info on the accommodation see http://frenchduck.com/latest/archives/2008/04/bb-or-gite-in-the-gers.html

cforms contact form by delicious:days

Sweet French Cottages

SPECIAL HOLIDAY OFFER-BOOK A COTTAGE BY 1 DECEMBER 2009 FOR CHRISTMAS OR NEW YEAR’S 2009 & RECEIVE 15% DISCOUNT

Two of the lesser-known wine appellations of Southwest are Marcillac AOC and Entraygues-et-Fel VDQS are in Aveyron departement (12, Midi-Pyrenees) in the Upper Lot Valley. One way of getting to know the region (and its wines) is by renting one of three charming 200+ year-old restored cottages nestled on the hillsides near the Lot River. These rental cottages offer beautiful interiors, lovely views and relaxing ambiance.All of the “Sweet French Cottages” are located in the area that boasts 10 of “The Most Beautiful Villages in France,” more than any other region so you can just imagine how beautiful it is!

Many historic sites, castles, forests, walking paths, hiking trails, wine tasting, restaurants, horseback riding, kayaking, canoeing and golf or just sit and enjoy the views! Gorgeous village of Entraygues-sur-Truyere offers full services and is only minutes away.

Sweet French Cottages in the Aveyron

All cottages are newly renovated to a high standard by the owner-designer, and are fully outfitted for self catering. Each has beautiful, comfortable interiors with antiques and quality furnishings. Many original features including stone exteriors, slate roofs, wood beam ceilings, fireplaces, handmade terracotta tile floors or pine floors. Delightful river, castle and forest views.

Sweet French Cottages – weekly or longer term rental properties include:
La Gourdinerie, a south facing cottage that was previously a wine-producing house, that accommodates up to 5 guests with 2 double bedrooms and 1 single bedroom and 2 bathrooms. This cottage offers a private drive, secluded pool, balcony, log burning stove, stone terrace and breathtaking views.  New kitchen with modern conveniences and old world charm.  Pets welcome.
La Maisonette is a romantic getaway for two, nestled between an 11th c. chateau and a restored chapel in a historic hamlet, with one large ensuite double bedroom. This cottage features a log burning stove, balcony, terrace, outdoor shower and new kitchen and bathroom with modern conveniences and old world charm.Central heating and high speed internet access. Pets welcome.
L’Ecole Ancienne, previously an ancient schoolhouse for the hamlet, accommodates up to 2 guests with one double ensuite bathroom, and is situated on 10 privately owned acres with walking paths and a stream. The ancient schoolhouse features a log burning stove, central heating, a terrace with forest and meadow views and new upscale kitchen and bathroom with modern conveniences and old world charm. High speed internet access.

For more info and to book use the Enquiry form at the bottom of the page.
See map
For more info on the region see www.tourisme-aveyron.com

For more info and to book see Sweet French Cottages

If you are a fan of Muscat wines then Perpignan (66 Pyrenees-Orientales, Languedoc-Roussillon) should be your destination from 31 January – 2 February 2009 with the Rencontres Mediterraneenes du Muscat (Mediterranean Muscat’s Convention).

Open to the public, the event offers culinary and wine-tasting workshops and the opportunity to taste a range of Muscat wines and Vins Doux Naturels (fortified wines) including St Jean de Minervois, Lunel, Rivesaltes, Frontignan and Mireval in the Languedoc, Beaumes de Venise in Provence, Cap Corse in Corsica and Samos in Greece.

The Muscat grape in its various guises tends to produce wines with the most obviously “grapey” taste, and they are usually sweet or dessert wines , such as the local Muscat de Rivesaltes. However a dry style is produced in Alsace and some domaines in the Languedoc (under the Vin de Pays d’Oc label)

For more info see www.rencontres-muscat.com

For more info on Perpignan see www.perpignantourisme.com

Styling itself the “Villages for Lovers” (le village des Amoureux) the website at www.village-saint-valentin.com/ is very French and just a tad too pink for my liking. I an told that there is an annual festival on 14 February to celebrate their patron saint, but details were a little thin.

It appears that if there ever was a Saint Valentine, he was a very obscure saint, and any connection between him and a celebration of love is probably a very recent phenomenon, probably manufactured by florists, greeting card manufacturers and makers of pink ribbons!

The other option is to head down to Beaujolais and the village of St Amour (amour = love). The village is home to one of the Beaujolais wine crus, and is in fact the most northerly, which is probably better known for its voluptuousness rather than finesse! Again there it is unlikely that there ever was a saint called Amour, but is thought to be a derivation of Saint Amateur , a roman soldier who converted to Christianity and founded a local monastery. No obvious Valentine-inspired events here, which might make it a more attractive and less commercialised venue to take your paramour. Certainly the scenery is charming, even if the vines will look a little stark this time of year.

For more info on Beaujolais wines see www.beaujolais-wines.com

Or there is the Fete du Baiser (Festival of the Kiss) at Roquemaure near Avignon (30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon) although the name has now been changed to the “Lovers Festival” (Fete des Amoureux”) which takes place on the weekend of 14-15 February 2009.

The relics of (a) Saint Valentine lay in Roquemaure since 1868. Every year, the weekend nearest February 14th, the town recreates the arrival of Saint Valentine’s relics and celebrates the love and romanticism this mythical Saint now symbolises.
Roquemaure turns into the town of love legends, returning to its 19th century aspect with more than 800 traditionally costumed people, horses and carriages, store fronts decorated in 19th century fashion, an old post office selling souvenir postcards (valentine cards), a fountain of Lovers, a market with over 60 ancient trades, a bandstand and wooden merry-go-rounds. For the occasion, the streets are given the names of the most famous lovers in French literature. To the sound of oboes, bagpipes, drums, and shepherd’s pipes, folkloric dance groups animate the town, along with jugglers and acrobats. Lovers can hum the prettiest love songs played by the barrel organs in the streets of the ancient town. The relics are symbolically paraded on Sunday morning so that Saint Valentine blesses Roquemaure again. This completely free romantic festival was created 17 years ago.

As an added bonus the winemakers of the local Appellation of Lirac AOC have chosen this weekend to celebrate their Festival of Vine Pruning! “On the Sunday morning of Saint Valentine’s feast, seven carts loaded with vine shoots from the seven main vine varieties of the Lirac appellation accompany the procession of Saint Valentine’s relics in the streets of the ancient part of the village.”
For more info see www.saintvalentin.org/

Montélimar, the capital of nougat and gateway to Provence, celebrates Christmas with a Christmas village and market in the St Martin quarter – with tourist train, christmas lights, christmas carols – and stalls to entice you with tastings of soup,  tartiflette (a warming alpine dish of cheese, potatoes and bacon), French toasts or eggy bread (pains perdus), oysters, local wines from the Coteaux du Tricastin, roast chestnuts, mulled wine and, of course,nougat…

For more info see www.montelimar-tourisme.com/

So you could try something a little different for your festive fizz. 10% off a mixed case of sparkling wines,

The other half of the business specialises in gourmet foods from SW France and beyond, including duck and goose products such as confit, rillettes, patés, cassoulet and soups, jams, bottled fruit, tapenade and anchoiades and even snails!

Devigne Wines and Confit Direct

Michael & Patricia Robertson, PO Box 13748, North Berwick
EH39 9AA

Tel: 01620 890860 Fax: 05600 756287

The wines of Costières de Nîmes, in great southern tradition are vinified according to the principle of skilful blending of varieties. The proportions are defined by each winemaker in order to bring out the best expression of a terroir, to demonstrate the style of wine from that domaine or
cellar but also to best express the profile of that vintage. The reds and rosés are made using Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault.

For more info on Nimes see www.ot-nimes.fr/
For more info see www.costieres-nimes.com for the local wine

Recommended vineyard visit – Chateau de la Tuilerie

Half-Price tickets (£10 reduced from £20) available from www.frenchwinegrowersfair.com – Domaine le Fort is on stand 22
For more info on Domaine le Fort see www.domainelefort.com

Clairette de Die is a naturally sparkling white wine, which is characterised by its fruity flavour and its floral aromas. No sugar is added during the production process. There is simply no need, since tasting it is like biting into an extremely ripe fruit, an apricot or a peach, and simultaneously inhaling the aroma of white flowers such as the rose, eglantine, or honeysuckle. The colour can be more or less intense, ranging from an extremely pale straw colour to golden, depending on the method of production used by the winemaker. The sugar contained in Clairette is derived solely from the grapes, which means that this is a naturally sweet wine.

For more about the area and the festival see http://www.diois-tourisme.com/

For more about the wine appellation see http://www.clairette-de-die.com

The Telegraph (19 Aug 08) includes a boat trip up the Rhone Valley as one of its top 10 river cruises:

Navigating France’s mightiest river is a favourite for wine aficionados and foodies. A cruise through Burgundy and Provence gives you the chance to visit vineyards (think Côtes du Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape), explore Lyon – the gourmet capital of France – and enjoy historic towns such as the fortified city of Avignon and the Roman ruins in Arles. The countryside is equally superb: its fields of lavender and sunflowers were an inspiration for artists such as Vincent Van Gogh, and as the river drains into the Mediterranean you’ll see the famous white horses of the Camargue.

The route includes many worthwhile stops for visits to suit all tastes, but it is also remarkably rich in potential wine visits as you’ll pass through appellations such as Costieres de Nimes, Cotes du Rhone (north and south), Lirac, Tavel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, St Joseph and Hermitage – and if you branch onto the River Saone north of Lyon you can explore Beuajolais and southern Burgundy!

It should come as little surprise that rivers and canals tend to offer good access to good vineyards – vines often grow best on the steep valley sides with their good drainage and aspect to the sun.

A more modest trip than the Rhone, could be a canal trip from Auxerre (89 Yonne, Burgundy) close to Chablis and down the Canal de Bourgogne to Dijon and the Burgundy vineyards; or a trip down the Canal Lateral de la Loire for Sancerre AC, Pouilly-Fumé and Coteaux Giennois. By using the Canal du Nivernais and the Canal de Briare you could even manage a circular route via Auxerre.

Of course, Rick Stein’s French Odyssey was based on a canal trip along the Canal du Midi and the Canal Lateral de la Garonne and included the vineyards of Bordeaux, Cotes du Marmandais, Buzet, Fronton, Minervois, Corbieres and the Coteaux du Languedoc.

For another set of options try Hilary Wright’s book Water into Wine: A Wine Lover’s Journey Through The Waterways of France which also includes itineraries in the lower Loire. Cognac, Alsace, Lorraiine and the Lot.

For more info on the canals of France see the website for VNF (Voies Navigable de la France) now much improved and in English!

Joanna Simon in the Sunday Times (1 June 2008) helpfully provides an explanation of the appellation rules for the Cotes du Rhone, which produces such a wealth of good wines, but where the nomenclature can confuse rather than illuminate. You can find a cheap basic Cotes du Rhone for well under £5.00 but get something really special for £10 and over – but the label will often not enlighten you. Furthermore the region is split into two – North and South, which are quite different in style – the north (which is home to Hermitage, St Joseph etc) is more dominated by Syrah, whereas the south (the larger and better known region) tends to be more dominated by blends of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault.

So, let us begin with Côtes du Rhône. This is the basic AOC and the largest – a status reflected in low prices. The difference comes when the word Villages is added, as in Côtes du Rhône-Villages. It signifies superior land and stricter production rules, and it shows in the quality.

The next step up is to the 20 communes allowed to append their own name, for example, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret, or Cairanne or Rasteau. These can be great value. Finally, over time, four villages – Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes de Venise and Vinsobres – have been promoted to AOC in their own right, and so have dropped the Côtes du Rhône moniker entirely.

In essence the better wines are made on the higher ground on the sides of the valley, which is where the “villages” and individual appellations are located. Here the soil drains better, there is more breeze to mitigate against the blistering heat which the region can experience.

Amongst our recommendations would be
Any of the wines of E Guigal, real Rhone specialist negociants – e.g. Cotes du Rhone AC from Majestic Wines

Domaine du Vieux Chene where the Bouche family contradict my claim that the best wines come from the sides of the valley – these are superb organic wines from Camaret near Orange (84 Vaucluse, Provence). Justerini & Brooks stock their wines in the UK – try the Cuvée des Capucins (A 90% Grenache 10% Syrah cuvée, really lively red and black forest bery fruits, warm generous and juicy with a lovely bitter sweet touch. Delicious.) £7.55 a bottle

Domaine de Mourchon at Seguret, run by Scot Andrew McKinlay, who has established an awesome reputation for himself in the appellation – try the Tradition 2006 from The Big Red Wine Company – “an enticing freshness with good upfront fruit and great texture and length. Lighter than the 2005 and, as such, more approachable in its youth with lovely sweet cherry fruit (more noticeably red fruit in character when tasted alongside the 2005) and good mouthfeel. A decent tannic structure to give the wine a real lift. Very friendly wine.” £8.95

It is hardly surprising then that a substantial proportion of the hundreds of thousands of Brits who own French property have been tempted by the apparently bucolic life of a vigneron……
Are there any French winemakers left down there?
I asked Walter McKinlay, whose Domaine de Mourchon southern Rhône wines are some of the most successful from a British domaine, whether his Domaine de Mourchon wines were financially viable. He frowned. “Just about,” he said cautiously, then smiled. “But it’s a lovely lifestyle though.”

My own observation would be that it can be incredibly hard work and despite the attractions of the climate, landscape and the French way of life, it can also be very stressful. And as with all winemakers, a bad harvest, particularly in the early years can be devastating.

So, here’s our list of British vineyard owners (and 1 Irish couple) – that we are aware of (not an exhaustive list I am sure). Visits can be much more informative if the language is no barrier:-

Domaine de Laroux – Cotes de Gascogne, Armagnac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) – Nick and Karen Kitchener
Chateau Haut Garrigue - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Sean and Caroline Feely (the Irish couple running an organic vineyard also known as Wild Earth Vineyards)
Domaine de Fontenay – Cote Roannaise AC (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) – Simon and Isabelle Hawkins

Chateau Richard – Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Richard Doughty

Domaine de Merchien – Coteaux du Quercy and beer! (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees – David & Sarah Meakin

Clos d’Yvigne – Cotes de Bergeac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Patricia Atkinson

Chateau des Milles Anges – Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Cadillac AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Heather van Ekris

Chateau Lezongars - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Philip and Sarah Iles

Chateau Teyssier – Saint Emilion Grand Cru AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Jonathan and Lyn Maltus

Chateau de Sours – Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Esme & Sara Johnson

Domaine Gourdon – Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) – John Coulthard
Domaine du Grand Mayne – Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) – Andrew Gordon
Domaine de Begude – Limoux AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Catherine and James Kinglake
Domaine de Mourchon – Cotes du Rhone Seguret AC (84 Vaucluse, Provence) – Walter McKinley
Maison des Bulliats – Regnie AC Beaujolais (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) – Fred and Helen Lockwood
Chateau Méaume – Bordeaux Superieure AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill

Domaine a Sauvageonne – Coteaux du Languedoc AC, Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc – Roussillon) – Gavin Crisfield

Domaine Sainte Rose – Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Charles and Ruth Simpson

Chateau Bauduc - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Gavin and Angela Quinney

Domaine Sainte Croix - Corbieres AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Jon & Elizabeth Bowen

Chateau Monplaisir – Bergerac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – David and Helen Baxter

Chateau du Seuil  – Graves AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Sean and Nicola Allison

Waitrose

As well as our usual French favourites, the showcase will also see the launch of four new wines to the range, including the delightful Taittinger Rose NV and the excellent value Domaine des Eyssards Bergerac Rouge.

Unusually for a major supermarket (and greatly to be welcomed) Waitrose will be featuring 13 specially sourced small parcel wines from a wide range of less well-known appellations such as:

Quincy (crisp Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire), Provence and Lirac (Southern Rhone) and the wonderfully unusual Pierre Boniface Domaine des Rocailles Apremont de Savoie 2007 and La Bastide Blanche Bandol (rich Mourvedre red from east of Marseille).

Waitrose Wine Direct

(see map)

Evolution will plan your itinerary for you or advise you on your existing route. If you’re a lover of fishing, walking, wine tasting etc.a personalised route planner to suit your needs can be arranged for the duration of your vacation. We will provide details of recommended camp sites.

You’ll never get lost…
We provide an on-board ready-to-use GPS navigation system. We’re on-call with a 24/7 helpline with English spoken… We can provide liaison with reputable local property agents for those seeking to purchase property in the area. Cycle and leisure equipment hire is also available. Evolution caters for all-year round rental, with winter skiing resorts only a leisurely 3 hour drive south, a little further will take you to the winter warmth of Spain.

So you can avoid the long road trip through France, fly into Bergerac or Bordeaux or take the train – they will meet you at the airport or station and you’re off free to explore this rich and varied area. And with French number plates you might even get a bit more respect on the road!

For more info see www.evolutionmotorhomes.com

It is also known as the “Race to the Sun” and extends over 1200 km in the week.

After a time trial (prologue) on Sunday 9 March, the route heads south through Nevers (58 Nievre, Burgundy) via Sancerre, then across to Beaujolais (Belleville, 69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) and Fleurie and on to Saint Etienne (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes).

After a transfer down to Montelimar (26 Drome, Rhone-Alpes) the race then heads for the Alps via Mont Ventoux, Althen-les-Paluds (84 Vaucluse, Provence) and onto the Mediterranean coast via Sisteron to Cannes and Nice where the race finishes on 16 March on the Promenade des Anglais.
Even if you are not a cycling fan, the race and its paraphernalia is quite a spectacle and will pass through some glorious countryside.

For more info on the route see www.letour.fr

This offer is available to French Duck readers by quoting code WINE77 at the checkout.

Whilst I tend to prefer to support small independent wine merchants, Waitrose’ selections are often excellent, always reliable and generally good value.

This is a good selection of wines from all the main classic wine regions of France including reds from Beaujolais, Cahors, Fitou, Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone (Chapoutier) and a red Burgundy.

For the whites there is a Macon Lugny, Saumur, Bordeaux, Touraine Sauvignon and Chablis.

The offer means that a case of 12 bottles is just £55.00 including free UK delivery – i.e under £5.00 a bottle. And if you prefer only reds or only whites, you can have that for the same price (2 bottles of each). But this offer is only available with thediscount voucher code above and until 5 March 2008!

See Watirose online

A browse through the local travel bookshop in midwinter is always enjoyable, especially when you find something new. Hence Mireille Guiliano’s French Women Don’t Get Fat: The Secret of Eating for Pleasure caught the eye as unlike most books about dieting, it concentrates more on the pleasure of eating well A la Francaise. Personally I like the French approach of more but smaller courses rather than the British plate piled high with meat and 2 veg! One of the key messages here is all about portion size. This is another angle on the “French Paradox ” whereby despite a rich diet, the French tend to have lower levels of obesity and heart disease!

“It is classy, chic, convincing, funny, wise, well-written and very timely. It’s the ultimate non-diet book, which nonetheless shows us how to eat with balance, control and above all pleasure. Chuck out all the radical diet books, think about what you eat and why, and then enjoy eating the right things (and some of the wrong ones) intelligently, and in smaller portions.”

Another choice was Marie-Pierre Moine’s Provence Cookery School a sumptuous celebration of rich Provencal fayre, lovingly illustrated

Recreate the gorgeous flavours of Provencal cuisine in your own kitchen. Forget expensive and difficult courses run by intimidating chefs. This one-on-one guide gives step-by-step advice on how to learn the key elements of Provencal cooking in only one week. Each day, you’ll discover how to combine local ingredients and techniques to create authentic, delicious dishes, with three-course menu plans for making magnificent meals. Cook and enjoy over 100 wonderful dishes, using local ingredients from the best producers, from superb sauces to perfect pastries. Guy Gedda is your friendly and charming host: his clear demonstrations show you exactly what to do without the need for professional expertise and skill, but with results that will prove you have mastered the essentials of Provencal cooking in your own kitchen. Bon Appetit!

Finally a rather fun food book to enable you to recapture the essence of French cuisine back at home – William Black’s Plats Du Jour. According to Metro’s review: (April 25, 2007):

“The French wouldn’t dream of agonising over whether to buy local: after all, their culture is built on it, n’est ce pas? In his culinary travelogue Plats du Jour, William Black celebrates their peerless heritage, but also detects that everything isn’t quite so rosy in the country’s kitchen as they would like to think. “

With Bourg-en-Bresse as its principal town it is a region of gentle hills and river valleys – which is one of the hidden parts of France.

The departement includes Bugey and the wines of Bugey. These are VDQS wines (Vins Délimité de Qualité Superieure) – a classification between full Appellation Controllee and VIns de Pays. As such there are restrictions on grape varieties used and planting and harvesting techniques – and the grapes must be grown in the designated region. White wines from Chardonnay, Roussette; Rosé wines from Gamay and Poulsard; Reds from Gamay, Pinot and Mondeuse; and sparkling wines from Chardonnay. Seldom seen in the UK.
For an opportunity to taste some of these wines there is an open tasting in Lyon from 25-26 January 2008 – click here for more details
For more on the wines of Bugey see www.vinsdubugey.net
One of the highlights of the year is the celebration of the famous yellow corn-fed chickens from Bourg-en-Bresse – the Glorieuses de Bresse held every December shortly before Christmas (for 2008 it runs from 16-21 December 2008 – in the form of a market and other festivities held in Bourg-en-Bresse, Louhans, Pont de Vaux and Montrevel-en-Bresse – see www.glorieusesdebresse.com

More info – see the Ain Tourism Office

For an English run B&B in the region with a knowledgeable host and guide see B&B Burgundy

For more info see www.rjsw.co.uk

In 1999 Vicki Archer, with her husband and three children, made a lifelong dream a reality (don’t we all have this dream?) when she bought a seventeenth-century property in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. She spent three years lovingly restoring the farmhouse, bringing back to life the abandoned apple and pear orchards and planting an olive grove of more than 2000 trees. In MY FRENCH LIFE, Vicki shares an insider’s view of life in France, telling her personal tale of taking risks, facing challenges and falling in love with all things French.

With gorgeous 4-color photography by Carla Coulson, it is the perfect holiday gift for armchair travelers and Francophiles alike.

For details and to enter the prize draw (closing date 14 December 2007) go to www.frenchduck.co.uk

Buy your own copy from Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.com(USA)

Yapp Brothers Ltd, The Old Brewery, Mere, Wiltshire BA12 6DY