Loire Valley /Centre Wines

4-5 December 2009 in the heart of Paris offers an opportunity to taste and learn about wines from many well-known names and most wine regions of France.

Over the 2 days you can taste wines direct from the producer and attend numerous masterclasses to enhance your appreciaton of wine. Unusually there is also a selection of Italian wines available to try. Bordeaux Chateau such as Chateau Laroze (St Emilion) will be there as well as producers from Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Corsica, Loire and Rhône etc.

Carrousel du Louvre , 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris – see www.grandtasting.com

Another interesting cheese seldom seen in the UK is the Fourme de Montbrison which comes from an area known as Le Forez (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) between St Etienne and Clermont Ferrand. Similar to the Fourme d’Ambert this is a mild, soft blue cheese made from cows milk with its own AOC appellation.

The Fourme de Montbrison has only a small number of mould veins throughout and has a reddish rind. Its flavour is very mild with light nut and mushroom flavours.

On the weekend of 2-3-4 October 2009 the town of Montbrison celebrates its “Journées de la Fourme”

To accompany this mild cheese the local Cotes du Forez AOC wine which is made from Gamay would make a good choice – and this is also likely to be available to taste on the “Cheese Days”

For more info on Le Forez see www.foreztourisme.fr/

For more info on the cheese see www.fourme-montbrison.com

For more info on the Cotes dy Forez AOC wine see http://cotesduforez.fr

Our ocassional series of articles using local knowledge to help you get the best out of a visit to different parts of France.

Saumur  (49 Maine et Loire, Pays de Loire)

Where to stay

Le Bellevue

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Bellevue (above) also offers Tables d’Hote (“host’s table, fixed price menu – booked in advance) – their “Découverte du Terroir’ is something you won’t find in a restaurant.  Carefully selected by Gérald the large plateau of local delicacies and handed down recipes from Grandma ensure a true French supper.  Accompanied by a complimentary bottle of AOC Saumur wine, dine leisurely in the peaceful grounds of ‘the Domaine.

Where to eat (gourmet):

l'helianthe

l’Hélianthe (The Helianthos) – for good food and a fabulous setting,  a  “restaurant troglodytique” (set in troglodyte caves).  Highly recommended.

Place Antoine Cristal, Turquant - about 10km south-east of Saumur along the river valley.
T: 02.41.51.22.28

La Licorne – a Michelin starred restaurant serving modern French cuisine  in the historical town of Fontrevraud l’Abbaye (abput 15km southeast of Saumur)

Restaurant la Licorne, Allée Sainet Catherine, Fontrevaud l’Abbaye
T:02.41.51.72.49

Where to eat (value for money):

For a picnic or snack between sight-seeing visits step into any boulangerie for a sandwich, quiche or slice of pizza followed by a mouth watering pastry.

Local food:

The specialty of the Saumur region are les Fouées, hollow unleavened breads filled with rillettes and confit de canard, served hot and accompanied by another specialty, large grilled mushrooms dripping with garlic & parsley butter – yummy !!

Local wine:

Saumur has its own appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC Saumur) and produces a wide variety of wines including sparkling, white, rosé and red.  For those interested in learning more about wine the Beaumonts (above)  offer private wine tours & wine tastings and vineyard visits.

Market:

Saumur hosts a fabulous Saturday morning market full of fresh produce, livestock! and stalls with plenty of goodies you’ll want to take home with you.

Must See:

chateau de saumur

Château de Saumur – dominates the town of Saumur at the edge of the Loire river
Cadre Noir at the National Equestrian School of the elite French Cavalry
Visit a Loire Valley vineyard
A Loire Valley wine tour & wine tasting

When to come :

Saumur’s Wine Festival “La Marché des Vins de Saumur” which takes place the first weekend in September (4-6 September 2009)

Getting around:

Why not try cycling – the well-established Loire à Velo scheme  which offers cycling along the gentle banks of the Loire  with well-signposted cycle paths and itineraries.

There are also plenty of well-marked footpaths in the area – along the river and away from it – see www.saumur-rando.com (in French)

Local Tourist Office -

and remember this section of the Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site – The Loire Valley is noteworthy for the quality of its architectural heritage, in its historic towns such as Blois, Chinon, Orléans, Saumur, and Tours, but in particular in its world-famous castles, such as the Château de Chambord.

Thanks to Sarah-Jane Beaumont at Le Bellevue for some of these recommendations

A great way to try (and to buy) wines in the Loire Valley is offered on Saturday 15 August 2009 with a wine festival being held in the streets of Bourgueil (37 Indre et Loire, Centre) – Fete des Vins du Val de Loire hopefully the weather will be fine as it is in the open air! Wines from other parts of the Loire Valley aill be on offer, including those from one of our favourites – Domaine Octavie at Oisly, whose Touraine AC wines are always a delight.

Bourgeuil AC is a small Loire appellation between Tours and Saumur, a few kilmetres north of Chinon. Production is primarily for red wines (plus a very small production of rosé) made from the Cabernet Franc grape (although up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon can be added). There is also the smaller appellation of St Nicolas-de-Bourgueil which has the same grape varietals, and which I challenge most imbibers to distinguish from Bourgueil AC (or Chinon AC for that matter).I used to think of Cabernet Franc reds as a little dry and dusty, but in good years they can develop a wonderfully fruity style (raspberries?) whilst still full-bodied and with noticeable tannins – and recent good summers have helped to produce more attractive wines.Bourgueil (37 Indre et Loire, Centre) is a small Loire appellation between Tours and Saumur, a few kilmetres north of Chinon. Production is primarily for red wines (plus a very small production of rosé) made from the Cabernet Franc grape (although up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon can be added). There is also the smaller appellation of St Nicolas-de-Bourgueil which has the same grape varietals, and which I challenge most imbibers to distinguish from Bourgueil AC (or Chinon AC for that matter).I used to think of Cabernet Franc reds as a little dry and dusty, but in good years they can develop a wonderfully fruity style (raspberries?) whilst still full-bodied and with noticeable tannins – and recent good summers have helped to produce more attractive wines.

Bourgueil Tourist Office

The gothic cathedral of St Etienne at Bourges (18 Cher, Centre) is one of the most impressive in France, surrounded by the medieval streets of the old town. Imagine the sight of this magnificent and imposing edifice compared to the modest premises of the local populace, it would inspire awe and wonder. Today it remains impressive, with immense flying buttresses and sheer bulk and beauty enough to justify its designation as one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites:-

The Cathedral of St Etienne of Bourges, built between the late 12th and late 13th centuries, is one of the great masterpieces of Gothic art and is admired for its proportions and the unity of its design. The tympanum, sculptures and stained-glass windows are particularly striking. Apart from the beauty of the architecture, it attests to the power of Christianity in medieval France.

As an extra bonus, the Cathedral is illuminated as night as part of Les Nuits Lumière de Bourges

ievery Thursday, Friday and Saturday night in July, August and September 2009 from dusk.

Additionally on Fridays 3  July 2009, 29 August 2009 and 18 September 2009 locals will be in costume, and on Fridays 17,24 and 31 July 2009, 7 and 14 August 2009 there will also be the opportunity to taste the wines of the region (Vins du Centre, which includes Sancerre, Quincy, Reuilly, Menetou-Salon, Poully-Fumé, Coteaux du Giennois and Chateaumeillant AC)

More info on Bourges
Find the best rates for Hotels in Bourges
Train Tickets from UK to Bourges with Eurostar

More info on the wines of Centre

Sunday 26 July 2009 sees the annual Fete des Vins at Bonny-sur-Loire.(45 Loiret, Centre), Although close to both Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire, the wines here are from the Coteaux Giennois (from near the town of Gien on the Loire) – whites from Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin, reds from Pinot Noir and Gamay. Chenin Blanc is the typical white grape variety in the Loire Valley wines – especially in the main section of the river – Bonny is on the cusp between the dominance of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon from up-river vineyards such as Sancerre.
Although they lack the finesse of their more famous neighbours, they are good little wines and represent good value.
See map

For more info see www.vins-centre-loire.com