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Jancis Robinson in the Financial Times (12 May 08) talks about the growing number of Brits who have followed their dream and bought a vineyard in France.

It is hardly surprising then that a substantial proportion of the hundreds of thousands of Brits who own French property have been tempted by the apparently bucolic life of a vigneron……
Are there any French winemakers left down there?
I asked Walter McKinlay, whose Domaine de Mourchon southern Rhône wines are some of the most successful from a British domaine, whether his Domaine de Mourchon wines were financially viable. He frowned. “Just about,” he said cautiously, then smiled. “But it’s a lovely lifestyle though.”

My own observation would be that it can be incredibly hard work and despite the attractions of the climate, landscape and the French way of life, it can also be very stressful. And as with all winemakers, a bad harvest, particularly in the early years can be devastating.

So, here’s our list of British vineyard owners (and 1 Irish couple) - that we are aware of (not an exhaustive list I am sure). Visits can be much more informative if the language is no barrier:-

Domaine de Laroux - Cotes de Gascogne, Armagnac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) - Nick and Karen Kitchener
Chateau Haut Garrigue - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Sean and Caroline Feely (the Irish couple running an organic vineyard also known as Wild Earth Vineyards)
Domaine de Fontenay - Cote Roannaise AC (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) - Simon and Isabelle Hawkins

Chateau Richard - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Richard Doughty

Domaine de Merchien - Coteaux du Quercy and beer! (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees - David & Sarah Meakin

Clos d’Yvigne - Cotes de Bergeac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Patricia Atkinson

Chateau des Milles Anges - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Cadillac AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Heather van Ekris

Chateau Lezongars - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Philip and Sarah Iles

Chateau Teyssier - Saint Emilion Grand Cru AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Jonathan and Lyn Maltus

Chateau de Sours - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Esme & Sara Johnson

Domaine Gourdon - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - John Coulthard
Domaine du Grand Mayne - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - Andrew Gordon
Domaine de Begude - Limoux AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Catherine and James Kinglake
Domaine de Mourchon - Cotes du Rhone Seguret AC (84 Vaucluse, Provence) - Walter McKinley
Maison des Bulliats - Regnie AC Beaujolais (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) - Fred and Helen Lockwood
Chateau Méaume - Bordeaux Superieure AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill

Domaine a Sauvageonne - Coteaux du Languedoc AC, Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc - Roussillon) - Gavin Crisfield

Domaine Sainte Rose - Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Charles and Ruth Simpson

Chateau Bauduc - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Gavin and Angela Quinney

Domaine Sainte Croix - Corbieres AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Jon & Elizabeth Bowen

Chateau Monplaisir - Bergerac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - David and Helen Baxter

This week sees another big wine trade bash at VINISUD, which is a held in Montpellier and focuses on Mediterranean wines, and not just French. Going by the number of invites I have received (and regretably had to decline) the show just keeps getting bigger, and that is a good sign that quality levels are continuing to rise.
One of the appellations represented is that of Limoux - well, really it is 4 appellations, just to confuse matters. Situated south of Carcassonne (11 Aude, Languedoc) in the heart of Cathar country, the town itself is not one of the prettiest. And some of the cellars also seem a little industrial. But on the many and varied slopes around the town, vines produce wines which are often little understood and less appreciated.

Firstly and foremost is the Blanquette de Limoux AC. This claims to be the first sparkling wine produced in the world in 1531 by the Benedictine monks at the Abbaye de Saintt-Hilaire. “Blanquette” comes from the Mauzac grape, which develops a white down on the vineleaves - hence “blanc” or white. Mauzac is also used in Gaillac. Up to 10% of Chenin Blanc (the Loire grape) and the ubiquitous Chardonnay may be added. Made using the “methode champenoise” and undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle before final bottling at 9 months.The resulting wine is fresh and dry with a pleasant “yeasty” edge.
Next comes the Blanquette de Limoux Methode Ancestrale AC where the wine is bottled whilst it still containe yeast and unfermented sugars - so that as the sugar ferments the bubbles develop in the bottle. This tends to be a sweeter wine with relatively low alcohol.
Just to confuse matters there is a third sparkling wine - Cremant de Limoux AC where the blend is predominantly Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, and the wine is matured on its lees for 12 months before final bottling - again made by the Champagne method.The Chardonnay and Chenin produce more familiar and rounded flavours with a good mousse.
Finally there are the still wines of Limoux AC - The White Limoux is made from Chardonnay, Mauzac (15% minimum) or Chenin Blancm whilst the Red Limoux are composed of at least 50% Merlot; at least 30% of Côt (Malbec), Syrah and Grenache and a maximum of 10% Carignan. They can already also have up to 20 % of Cabernet-Franc and Cabernet-Sauvignon.

It has to be said that with this mix of grapes allowed it is obviously possible to produce some good interesting wines, but I suspect it may be difficult to idenitfy a particular style, especially for the still, red Limoux. The best offering is to my mind the Blanquette de Limoux, which is usually interestingly different from the normal cheaprt fizz, which is likely to be a more consistent style given the requirement for including 90% Mauzac.

My personal favourite producer is Antech, and not just because a most memorable family lunch I enjoyed their many years ago. Although I liked their wines I was not brave enough to import such little-known wines - but Michael and Patricia Robertson at Devignewines and Confit Direct in Welshpool have! We’ll be looking at their list of goodies again soon.

If you are in the region of Limoux we can recommend a good English-run B&B at Les Eaux Tranquilles at Quillan - very reasonable, very comfortable rooms and superb setting by the fast-running Aude river.

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Keywords:france,wine,limoux,cremant,carcassonne,aude,blanquette,quillan