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Jancis Robinson in the Financial Times (12 May 08) talks about the growing number of Brits who have followed their dream and bought a vineyard in France.
It is hardly surprising then that a substantial proportion of the hundreds of thousands of Brits who own French property have been tempted by the apparently bucolic life of a vigneron……
Are there any French winemakers left down there?
I asked Walter McKinlay, whose Domaine de Mourchon southern Rhône wines are some of the most successful from a British domaine, whether his Domaine de Mourchon wines were financially viable. He frowned. “Just about,” he said cautiously, then smiled. “But it’s a lovely lifestyle though.”
My own observation would be that it can be incredibly hard work and despite the attractions of the climate, landscape and the French way of life, it can also be very stressful. And as with all winemakers, a bad harvest, particularly in the early years can be devastating.
So, here’s our list of British vineyard owners (and 1 Irish couple) - that we are aware of (not an exhaustive list I am sure). Visits can be much more informative if the language is no barrier:-
Domaine de Laroux - Cotes de Gascogne, Armagnac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) - Nick and Karen Kitchener
Chateau Haut Garrigue - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Sean and Caroline Feely (the Irish couple running an organic vineyard also known as Wild Earth Vineyards)
Domaine de Fontenay - Cote Roannaise AC (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) - Simon and Isabelle Hawkins
Chateau Richard - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Richard Doughty
Domaine de Merchien - Coteaux du Quercy and beer! (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees - David & Sarah Meakin
Clos d’Yvigne - Cotes de Bergeac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Patricia Atkinson
Chateau des Milles Anges - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Cadillac AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Heather van Ekris
Chateau Lezongars - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Philip and Sarah Iles
Chateau Teyssier - Saint Emilion Grand Cru AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Jonathan and Lyn Maltus
Chateau de Sours - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Esme & Sara Johnson
Domaine Gourdon - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - John Coulthard
Domaine du Grand Mayne - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - Andrew Gordon
Domaine de Begude - Limoux AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Catherine and James Kinglake
Domaine de Mourchon - Cotes du Rhone Seguret AC (84 Vaucluse, Provence) - Walter McKinley
Maison des Bulliats - Regnie AC Beaujolais (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) - Fred and Helen Lockwood
Chateau Méaume - Bordeaux Superieure AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill
Domaine a Sauvageonne - Coteaux du Languedoc AC, Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc - Roussillon) - Gavin Crisfield
Domaine Sainte Rose - Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Charles and Ruth Simpson
Chateau Bauduc - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Gavin and Angela Quinney
Domaine Sainte Croix - Corbieres AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Jon & Elizabeth Bowen
Chateau Monplaisir - Bergerac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - David and Helen Baxter
Chateau du Seuil - Graves AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Sean and Nicola Allison
Late November/early December the Vignerons Independants (independent winemakers) hold a series of public wine fairs, most notably in Lyon, Reims, Lille and Paris where you can taste a seemingly mind- and tongue-boggling array of wines from all over France. The exhibitors are mainly small independent winemakers (no co-operatives, negociants or multi-nationals) who are keen to show off their wines.
In Lille alone, there were over 460 stands covering the whole of France and Corsica, and for the wine-enthusiast it really is a great opportunity to discover new wines.
The problem is that you cannot physically taste more than a small fraction of those wines on offer, so a bit of pre-planning or a good helping of serendipity is required.
I usually go with a few friends, and our strategy is to split up for the first couple of hours and then meet up to compare notes and share “discoveries”. So the following mix of old favourites and new wines to watch is not a scientific analysis of all that is available, but a personal selection from those that I did visit::-
Mas de Martin, Coteaux du Languedoc AC
Here Christian Mocci makes some excellent and very drinkable wines which he blesses with mythical names - Ultreia and Cincarca. These are really well-structured blends of Syrah and Grenache (plus Mourvedre for the Ultreia) but with juicy red fruits predominating. Regrettably not available in the UK as yet, but hopefully someone will start importing them, especially as they have won two “Coups de Coeur” in the Guide Hachette and a bronze in the Decanter World Wine Awards 2007. See www.premiumwanadoo.com/masdemartin The Domaine also offers self-catering accommodation - see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Domaine de Cauhapé. Jurancon AC and Jurancon Sec AC
I am a great fan of good Jurancon wines from the foothills of the Pyrenees. These idiosyncratic wines are primarily based on Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu, and range from steely dry (Sec) through to gloriously rich dessert wines. Domaine de Cauhapé produces some of the very best, and this year Henri Ramonteau, the owner was present to show his stylish wines. I personally prefer the dry wines, although I will confess that his dessert cuvee Quintessence du Petit Manseng is a really exceptional wine.
Of the dry whites I like them all for the wonderful combination of crisp, delicate acidity with exotic fruit flavours. Even the names of his cuvées are enticing - Chant des Vignes (song of the vines), Ballet d’Octobre and Symphonie de Novembre (from the late harvesting), la Canopée: “The aroma has a rare complexity, combining hazelnuts and quince paste with smoky notes and mineral characters. The palate is extremely aromatic - an explosion of fruits and spices.” For more on the Domaine see www.cauhape.com. UK stockists for Domaine de Cauhapé include Arthur Rackham
Domaine Octavie, Touraine and Touraine Sauvignon AC
An old favourite, but I was really impressed with even their basic cuvée of Touraine Sauvignon 2006 - good clean crisp, fragrant Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire - and at just €5.00 at the stand and vineyard this is incredible value - and such nice people. For more info see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Available in the UK from Eton Vintners and others
Chateau Ricardelle, Coteaux du Languedoc, la Clape AC Back to the Languedoc for the other star of my tasting - the Cuvée Closablières from this fine vineyard near the coast near Narbonne. “La Clape” is a rocky outcrop between Narbonne and the Mediterranean and this slope on the North East side of the outcrop is able to produce wines of great intensity probably due to low rainfall and cooling sea breezes. This wine is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan aged in oak for 12 months.
This wine is stocked by Pic Wines
This chateau also offers self-catering accommodation amongst the vines! For more info see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Overall I still think that the Languedoc continues to improve in terms of quality and value for money - by contrast the Rhône wines were a little disappointing - a personal view based only on a fairly random selection of wines available in Lille.
Situated amongst the Languedoc vineyards (and owned by a talented wine maker) Les Montels is a self-contained house with its own pool near the village of Roujan (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon - see map).
In total tranquility about 2km from the village, the villa has panoramic views over the countryside - this is a large stone-built villa very quiet, entirely restored and re-decorated, surrounded by a large Mediterranean garden (9000 m² of enclosed gardens). The villa is situated close to a village, midway between the mountains and the sea. It only takes about 20 – 30 minutes by car to reach the busy Mediterranean resorts and beaches, or the peaceful foothills of the Cévennes mountains to the north.
A very light and airy veranda, which opens onto the pool and has views over the
surrounding countryside.
The Accommodation comprises: 3 double/twin bedrooms; shower room with WC; 3 toilets; fully fitted kitchen; large living/dining room; terrace with BBQ; mezzanine with television and sofa bed. (The villa can take up to 8 people or 10 at a push); Utility room with washing machine and drying cabinet.
Mountain bikes are available for guests.
Central heating for winter rentals
And somebody can come and cook and/or clean for you!
For more info contact the owner
For wine you can try the owner’s (Helene Mir) own Clos Montels, Coteaux du Languedoc AC - see www.clos-montels.com
Situated amongst the Languedoc vineyards (and owned by a talented wine maker) Les Montels is a self-contained house with its own pool near the village of Roujan (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon - see map).
In total tranquility about 2km from the village, the villa has panoramic views over the countryside - this is a large stone-built villa very quiet, entirely restored and re-decorated, surrounded by a large Mediterranean garden (9000 m² of enclosed gardens). The villa is situated close to a village, midway between the mountains and the sea. It only takes about 20 – 30 minutes by car to reach the busy Mediterranean resorts and beaches, or the peaceful foothills of the Cévennes mountains to the north.
A very light and airy veranda, which opens onto the pool and has views over the
surrounding countryside.
The Accommodation comprises: 3 double/twin bedrooms; shower room with WC; 3 toilets; fully fitted kitchen; large living/dining room; terrace with BBQ; mezzanine with television and sofa bed. (The villa can take up to 8 people or 10 at a push); Utility room with washing machine and drying cabinet.
Mountain bikes are available for guests.
Central heating for winter rentals
And somebody can come and cook and/or clean for you!
For wine you can try the owner’s (Helene Mir) own Clos Montels, Coteaux du Languedoc AC - see www.clos-montels.com
Looking at a map you would not normally assume that the area around Chateau Ricardelle, between Narbonne (11 Aude, Languedoc) and the Mediterranean would be suitable for fine wine production - along the coast the soils get sandier, it tends to be flat and the salt-laden winds off the sea can seriously damage the vine leaves.
But the sub-appellation of la Clape in the Coteaux du Languedoc is a major exception to this wisdom, primarily due to a massive outcrop of limestone rock - Montagne la Clape! (la Clape apparently means “the rock”!)(see map)
This mountain both shelters the vineyards from the sea and provides the neighbouring slopes with plenty of mineral richness to impart to the grapes.
The Cuvee Closablieres 2004 from Chateau Ricardelle was featured on a recent tasting of the Languedoc wines stocked by Pic Wines. This is a blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (30%), Carignan (30%), all of which are vinified separately in French oak, producing a glorious red which the chateau describes as its “seducteur” - and rightly so. Languedoc wines tend to be quite beefy, sometimes even a bit tough - but this wine had a wonderful balance of lush red fruits and spicy tannins all carefully blended to provide a smooth, elegant and delightful mouthful. I think what surprised me was its elegance, not something I generally associate with big Languedoc reds. And at £7.60 a bottle well worth it!
This is one of several examples of really good wines available from Pic Wines - see also
Minervois la Laviniere
Wine & Food Walks
Pic Wines - a different approach
Website for Chateau Ricardelle
The Chateau also has accommodation available in the midst of the vineyards!
The Aniane Wine Festival (34 Herault, Languedoc) (Salon des Vins d’Aniane en coeur du Languedoc) in the heart of the Languedoc takes place 22-23 July 2006.
Aniane is best known for two things - the home of Mas de Daumas Gassac (Aimé Guibert), and for a famous battle to keep out the US multinational Robert Mondavi who wanted to make wines in the village - mind you not just the usual run of Languedoc wines, but wines which could sell for £40+ per bottle- a battle won by an unlikely coalition of local farmers, ecologists, hunters, and communists who succeeded in killing the ambitious $7.5 million plan to acquire 120 acres of prime grape-growing land on an untamed Mediterranean hillside.
Mas de Daumas Gassac “produces an internationally renowned red. The 76-year-old Aimé Guibert eschews pesticides, harvests his grapes by hand, and traces the origins of his vines back to Palestine at the time of Jesus Christ. “The Mondavis will end up destroying our traditional artisans who make wine, just like McDonald’s is destroying French gastronomy,” Guibert thunders.”
It is a tough call, especially when you consider the plight of much of the French wine industry - good growers such as Guibert will always succeed, but the bulk growers who sell into the co-operatives are struggling to find a market for their “vins ordinaires”. Mondavi may have overturned traditions and dominated the local economy, but would probably have brought prosperity and employment.
However, this would be a good opportunity to taste the wines of the region - 30 or so producers will be showing their wines (including Mas de Daumas Gassac, Chateau Capion - and there is also an introduction to wine tasting for the uninitiated.
For more info see www.ville-aniane.com
Late news - Pic Wines have a tasting in London on Wednesday 1 March 2006 6.30pm - 8.00pm when they will be showing 10 of their Languedoc wines - for details email Julie julie@picwines.com
Pity the French who must find it very difficult to understand the English language when it comes to food - we have mincemeat pies for Christmas which do not contain any minced meat - whereas in Pezenas (34 Herault, Languedoc) they do have small pies which contain a mincemeat of sweetened lamb rolled up in pastry - “Les Petits pâtés de Pézenas”. These sweet/salty concoctions in the form of a bobin are a speciality of the region, supposedly introduced by our Clive of India who stopped over in the town and his Indian cooks invented the pies from the available local ingredients. They are small pies usually served as a starter with a glass of wine.
Inevitably there is a “Confrérie du Petit Pâté de Pézenas” who have a ceremony every Ascension Day which gives them the excuse to dress up in extravagant gowns - but meantime you can always find a pie in any of the numerous Patisseries in this charming medieval town.
The town is in the middle of Languedoc wine country with some excellent Vins de Pays d’Oc and Coteaux du Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet, and Muscat wines.
Nearby is a great villa for rental in the middle of the vines at Roujan - Clos Montels
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Andrew at www.spittoon.biz has a tasting note on a wine from Pic St Loup in the Languedoc. This is another of those sub-appellations of the Coteaux du Languedoc (St Christol, la Clape,Picpoul de Pinet are others) - another example of confusing French wine classifications. Predominantly based around the concept of “terroir” -i.e specific local factors in climate, soil, aspect etc, these sub-appellations continuously strive to become appellations in their own right - a process often dominated by politics rather than vinous distinctiveness or quality.
However, in the Pic St Loup there are some more stringent requirements compared to the wider Coteaux de Languedoc appellation - at least 90% of the blend must be from Syrah, Grenache and/or Mourvedre, and the vines must be at least 5 years old, and the yield is restricted to 50hl/ha - all of which are good precursors to quality wine, and will give the wine more distinctiveness than many wines produced in the area.
The Pic St Loup is a rugged and distinctive outcrop in the hills to the north of Montpellier (34 Herault, Languedoc)
There is a good website about the wines of Pic St Loup at www.pic-saint-loup.com and on 10 June 2006 there is an open day when you can taste the wines of the appellation and do some food matching too - see http://www.pic-saint-loup.com/rendez_vous.asp
Andrew Chapman at Surf4Wine stocks a number of good wines from the Pic St Loup.
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Keywords: France,Wine,Languedoc,Herault,Montpellier,Pic,Loup,St Loup
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Clavel Les Catalognes, 2003, Coteaux du Languedoc, France.
Available from Oddbins for £6.49.
A blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah - which is just about Rhoney enough. The nose is a little bretty, mushrooms, undergrowth and shit mixed in with squishy black-fruits and some oriental spices. The palate is distinctive. Rough tannins coupled with fruit that has melded into a spicy, coffee-laced whole over the years. There is a touch of port-like richness initially, before the flavours evolve into an inky, blackberry finish. It needs food; with the pie it was fine mixing deliciously with the creamy potatoes and lamb base. Alcohol 13.5%.
Domaine Clavel is in Pic St Loup, just a stones throw from the Rhone area. They maintain a website. Sadly the English translation part of the site doesn’t load, but translating part of it, it would seem that the wine offers “Great moment of table” and “assured laughter”. While the site lists Grenache, Carignan and Syrah as the constituent grapes the Oddbins page adds Mourvedre, Muscat Petit Grians and Pinot Gris to the mix. I think they must have that wrong.
This note first appeared on Spittoon.
