Over the 2 days you can taste wines direct from the producer and attend numerous masterclasses to enhance your appreciaton of wine. Unusually there is also a selection of Italian wines available to try. Bordeaux Chateau such as Chateau Laroze (St Emilion) will be there as well as producers from Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Corsica, Loire and Rhône etc.

Carrousel du Louvre , 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris – see www.grandtasting.com

Gite Grape Escape at Saussignac

One of my preferred vineyard gites is at the organic Chateau Haut Garrigue just outside the village of Saussignac in the western Dordogne valley (24 Dordogne, Midi-Pyrenees) where Sean and Carolyne Feely originally from South Africa and Ireland have built up the vineyard (Saussignac AOC and Bergerac AOC) and also created a superb gite with great views over the valley and adjoining countryside – with their Wild Earth Vineyards venture they can also offer a variety of other diversions to help you enjoy the area and the wines!

Join us this summer to partake of wonderful fresh organic herbs, home-laid organic eggs and delectable wines that Chateau Haut Garrigue has to offer. What makes our self-catering cottage really stand out are the extraordinary views; they help to relax, to feel weightless and carefree.

If you haven’t finalised your summer plans we still have a few weeks left and for 5 days only (until this Monday May 18th) we’re offering 20% off the weekly rental price. As we say in France – une affaire a saisir – an offer not to be missed!

Appropriately they have named the gite “The Grape Escape”. They still have a few weeks available throughout the summer which are offered at a discount for early bookings. AND you will be in easy reach of the vineyards of Bergerac, Cotes de Duras and St Emilion. For more info see http://frenchduck.co.uk or use the enquiry form below:

cforms contact form by delicious:days

Where to stay?

Bordeaux City Centre Apartment – - selected for its location in the heart of the city on the fashionable Rue des Remparts. This pedestrianised street is situated between the prestigious shopping street “Cours de l’Intendance” and the city’s fine Cathedral “St. André”. Rue des Remparts offers a smart selection of bistro restaurants, cafés, boutique clothes and jewellery shops, delicatessen and specialised gift shops.

Where to eat – recommended

Le Vieux Bordeaux – Nearly a neighborhood institution, this restaurant ranks among the top five in a highly competitive market. Specialties include roasted sea bass on a gratin of pulverized black olives; thin-sliced escalopes of duck foie gras with coffee-flavored sauce; and “Oriental” (sweet-and-sour) pigeon with lime sauce. For a fixed price lunch expect to pay around €19. Tel no. – 05-56-52-94-36 Address 27 rue Buhan – Booking Essential!

Where to eat – gourmet

La Tupina – One of Bordeaux’s most talented chefs runs this cozy spot with a summer terrace near quai de la Monnaie. It’s been called “a tribute to country kitchens and the grandmothers who cooked in them.” Jean-Pierre Xiradakis’s specialty is duck, so your meal may begin with croutons spread with duck rillettes, and the kitchen often uses duck giblets, skin, and livers in salads. Other specialties are roasted shoulder of lamb en confit with garlic and white beans, lamprey eel à la Bordelaise, and steaks grilled and barbecued at the table. Desserts usually include pears marinated in red bordeaux wine. Website www.latupina.com – 6 rue de la Porte de la Monnaie Tel no. – 05-56-91-56-37 For a fixed price lunch or dinner expect to pay around €50. Booking recommended.

Where to eat – value for money

L’entrecote – A bordeaux institution. The best steak and chips in Town – not suitable for vegetarians! 4 Cours du 30 Juillet. Tel no. 05 56 81 76 10. Not necessary to book, but arrive early as long queues are the norm. Pepone Italian – 31 Cours Georges Clemenceau, 33000 Bordeaux – 05 56 44 91 05 Superb pizzas and anti pasta. Expect to queue.

Local wine/drink

Bordeaux of course!

Market

The quarter of Saint-Michel, built around the flamboyant gothic style Basilica, dedicated to the Archangel is by far the most lively and colourful quarter in the city.

There is a market under the beautiful spire every Monday and Saturday morning, and the shops around the square make for a lively and authentic atmosphere that the Bordelais poets such as Meste Verdié and Ulysse Despaux have always appreciated.

Must see

Musée d’Aquitaine An outstanding museum with over 25,000 years of history end ethnography. Exceptional artefacts include several prehistoric stone carvings of women and a collection of Gallo-Roman steles, statues and ceramics. Musée des Beaux-Arts Bordeaux’s fine art museum, is located in two wings of the 1770’s Hotel de Ville (2 minutes walk from the Apartment). It includes 17th century Flemish, Dutch and Italian paintings and 20th century works by Matisse, Picasso and others. Just around the block is the Galerie des Beaux-Arts, which hosts short-term exhibitions (check the Bordeaux Tourist information official website for up to date information). CAPC Musée d’Art Contemporain Housed in what was the main Colonial Foodstuffs Warehouse in the 19th century, this museum features more than 600 works by more than 100 artists. It includes French paintings from the 1970’s, paintings from the 1980’s and a selection of works by contemporary artists. Musée d’Histoire Naturelle The natural history museum is located near the Jardin Public. This museum was founded at the time of the French Revolution. There is a huge collection of animal and plant specimens, particularly on the regions famous palaeontology. Notre-Dame Church The very pinnacle of Baroque art in Bordeaux, the church has a brilliant décor of exceptional quality: wrought-iron work, a superb organ case, a pulpit carved in red marble and 18th. century paintings. Place de la Bourse Open to the river, dedicated to Louis XV, the square remains one of the purest “classics” of 18th century style. An equestrian statue of Louis XV used to stand in the middle. It was destroyed during the revolution and later replaced by the Fountain of the Three Graces (Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugénie and the Queen of Spain). This was the first monumental ensemble to be illuminated in the city’s ‘Plan Lumière’.

A bit of culture?

The Grand Théâtre Built from 1773 to 1780 by architect Victor Louis, The Grand Théâtre, a master-piece of neo-classical architecture stands on the site of a Gallo-Roman monument, the Piliers de Tutelle temple, which was destroyed in 1674. Restored to its original décor, the auditorium is admired as one of the finest in the world. The stairwell is grandiose and the stairs are decorated in the antique style featuring a caryatid theme.

Shopping

The Quartier Centre Ville to the north of the Hotel de Ville

Somewhere for a stroll

The Jardin Public Representing 10 hectares of public gardens in the city centre, The Jardin Public was created by Tourny, Royal Intendant, in 1746. It was designed to link the city with Faubourg Saint-Seurin and Chartrons. In 1856, the garden was re-developed in the “English” style by landscape architects Fisher and Escarpit. The Botanical Gardens have been present here since 1855, and feature a collection of around 3,000 different species of living plants.

Something for the kids

“Family Plus”, an ideal destination for the young and the not so young! Families travelling with young children can rely on the “Family Plus” hallmark and seal of approval to make sure their holiday in Bordeaux is a success.

The hallmark makes it easy to see just what is on offer for families in terms of holiday destinations and family-friendly services available when they get there.

The scheme helps reconcile the differing expectations of children and their parents, by ensuring that the holiday offers what everyone in the family is looking for: special prices, special activities for children led by professional staff, special family-centred accommodation and services…

…and then they can get together again afterwards.

Getting there

Bordeaux Airport (Merignac) offers plenty of international flights ibncluding Aer Arann, Brtish Airways , bmi baby, bmi, easyjet and Flybe,. TGV high speed train direct from Paris with Eurostar connections from London Autorute A10 from Paris

Getting around

New tramway system serves the centre.Buses serve the whole city area. “Bordeaux Discovery” cards are available

When to go

Bordeaux has a host of specially organised year round attractions and events.Here is a small selection of a few of them. For further information regarding any of the below and a full listing of what’s on, please contact Bordeaux Tourist Information centre. The Bordeaux Salon des Antiquaires, held in the Parc des Expositions, is among France’s finest fairs. Around 200 top antique dealers from all over France and beyond descend on the wine capital to display their antiques. All exhibits are checked by the on-site team of experts to verify authenticity and quality. Bordeaux International Showing Jumping Event The best international jumpers and their riders compete at the Bordeaux-Lac Exhibition Centre during this world-class show jumping event. Official Website: www.bordeaux-expo.com Bric-a-brac Market The lively Foire à la Brocante (bric-a-brac market) takes place in Bordeaux’s huge Parc des Expositions every spring and autumn. Although not as prestigious as the annual Antiques Fair, attendance is free and you may just uncover a prize antique…

Around 300 traders from all over France and Europe attend. Quality is not guaranteed, nor is authenticity, but prices are affordable and there is a vast choice of 17th-19th century antiques, ranging from furniture to postage stamps, antique jewellery, dolls and pictures.(7-8 March 2009) The Bordeaux Spring Fair in the Place des Quinconces is an annual tradition in Bordeaux. A mix of exhibits and stands from plants to antiques and many local food producers all line up in the atmospheric Place des Quinconces (April 25- 10 May 2009) Bordeaux International Fair The Bordeaux International Fair is the largest of its kind in France. With 2500 exhibitors from 50 countries and more than 300,000 visitors it is a great place to spend a few hours (even a couple of days.) (16-25 May 2009) Vinexpo One of the world wine industry’s premier events held at the Parc des Expositions. This year more than 2500 exhibitors will be pushing their wares to some 60,000 trade and press visitors. Les Epicuriales Festival Celebrates the flavours and cultures of the world along Bordeaux’s leafy Allées de Tourny.

During this summer festival, around 30 restaurants pop up, spilling out on to the sunny terrasses. Musicians perform everything from reggae to rock while street theatre and an evening art and craft market add to the festive atmosphere. At the centre of the celebrations, visitors can taste world and local wines in a large tent, L’espace Epicuriales. (28 May – 1 Jun 2009)

For a longer stay…..

Bordeaux is undoubtedly most famous worldwide for its superb wines. It is the capital of the region known as Aquitaine and is a major cultural centre and a transportation hub between southern France and Spain. The elegant city is rich in history, culture, arts, music, legendary wines and gastronomy. It is not only the fine wines capital of the world but also a vibrant centre of trade, industry, services and business.

The city centre is known for its neoclassic architecture and wide avenues, which over recent years have undergone a major investment programme to include cleaning up the building facades and renovate the quayside, to make a fashionable restaurant and bar district. A state of the art tram system is now operating in the city, which has reduced traffic congestion and left the city centre pedestrianised and easy to navigate.

Bordeaux is a fantastic showcase for Romanesque, gothic and Renaissance art displayed in museums, churches, forts, galleries, mansions, gardens and public walkways and buildings.

The elegant city is rich in history, culture, arts, music, legendary wines and gastronomy. It is not only the fine wines capital of the world but also a vibrant centre of trade, industry, services and business.

The city centre is known for its neoclassical architecture and wide avenues, which over recent years have undergone a major investment programme to include cleaning up the building facades and renovate the quayside, to make a fashionable restaurant and bar district. A state of the art tram system is now operating in the city, which has reduced traffic congestion and left the city centre pedestrianised and easy to navigate.

Bordeaux is a fantastic showcase for Romanesque, gothic and Renaissance art displayed in museums, churches, forts, galleries, mansions, gardens and public walkways and buildings.

For more info on Bordeaux see www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/ Recommendations kindly provided by Jane at Bordeaux City Centre Apartment

Half-Price tickets (£10 reduced from £20) available from www.frenchwinegrowersfair.com – Domaine le Fort is on stand 22
For more info on Domaine le Fort see www.domainelefort.com

It can be a bit of a surprise to discover just how cosmopolitan rural France can be – a tribute to its sheer attractiveness to many nations – so a small hotel/B&B run by a Dane and a New Zealander in a French chateau near Bordeaux could be an interesting combination with an intriguing mix of cultures and traditions. Situated in Meihan (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) within easy reach of St Emilion and the other less-pictureseque Bordeaux vineyards – and the vineyards of the Cotes du Marmandais and Cotes de Duras.

Chez Kelly is a Hip-Chic-Boutique hotel particuliere…in a chateau, appealing to discerning customers who enjoy a unique and discrete holiday experience in premium surroundings. Located in the famous 15th century “Chateau de Sauvin” bordering the Canal du Lateral, nearby the Garonne river and medieval town of Meilhan, the Chez Kelly concept is a mix of classic French and contemporary Scandinavian design.

Unlike other B+B offerings, hosts Brendan and Keld encourage guests to relax around the pool, play tennis, boules or billiards in the lounges, terraces and parklands enjoying “hotel like” daytime residency, without the maddening crowd. This is typified by the “New Zealand” friendly, casual style coupled with “Danish” reserve and respect for the privacy of our guests, making Chez Kelly your “home” for a holiday experience. The accommodation looks very stylish – a long way from the normal rustic French tradition. They clearly offer a different approach including “table d’hote” dining with style.

Being in the centre of some serious wine-making regions they are also offering an opportunity to get really involved with the wine harvest in September/October – so instead of just drinking wine; what about actually participating in the harvest, picking the grapes, be a part of the process! Learn a bit more about winemaking, get to know some of the local wines and have a good time to boot! The region also looks stunning as the early autumn colours start to kick in.

What are we offering? – Depending on the length of stay and picking days, we will arrange for you to spend 1-2 mornings picking grapes on one of our selected vineyards followed by participation in their harvest lunch. In addition we can arrange tasting sessions in different wine regions (we have Marmandais, Duras, Graves et Sauternes, Buzet and St Emilion all within 60km), a gourmet tour of a foie gras producer and a specialty oils producer. We can even arrange a chauffer driven service if you want to cut loose.

Chez Kelly, Château de Sauvin (off the D113) Meilhan, 47180

The port cities of Bordeaux and Bristol both played a distinguished role in the history of the wine trade, such that even in the 13th century more than 85 per cent of all imported wine came from South West France and as much as 3,000 tons (750,000 gallons) was being landed in Bristol.
The trade with Bordeaux fluctuated, dependent on our relationship with France (war, peace, occupation) but key names in the UK wine trade were established in Bristol, such as Harveys and Averys. Both Bristol and Bordeaux have the advantaghe that navigable rivers reach right into the heart of the city. In Bordeaux the “Quai des Chartrons” on the Garonne river front. In 2007 the cities of Bristol and Bordeaux celebrated the 60th Anniversary of their twinning.

Sadly little there remains little of that trade physically – no cargo ships leave the Chartrons quayside, and in Bristol only Averys of the long-established merchants remains in the city centre.
However, all that could change with a shipping company (CTMV – Compagnie de Transport Maritime a Voile) starting to use sailing ships to transport wine from Bordeaux, initially to Ireland, but later to Bristol. Initial consignments are of Languedoc wines, which are initially transported by barge on the Canal du Midi to Bordeaux and then loaded onto the sailing ship Belem for the 4-5 day crossing to Ireland. This trip with a load of 60,000 bottles will save over 18,000 lbs of carbon emissions – so a veritable eco-friendly wine.

UPDATE

The Telegraph (25 July 2008) has a report on the same company bringing a “Green Energy” wine to Ireland:-

The first commercial cargo of wine shipped from France by sail since the late 1800s arrived in Ireland on Friday aboard a British schooner, with almost zero petrol costs and carbon emissions.
Some 30,000 bottles of “green energy” wine, arrived in Dublin aboard the 108-year old Kathleen and May – the last wooden hull three-masted topsail schooner in existence – after leaving Brest a week ago with a stop at Penzance.

Each bottle carried has saved 4.9 oz of carbon dioxide emissions compared with a regular shipment. The wines come with the label: “Carried by sailing ship, a better deal for the planet.”

Furthermore the return trip is planned to be with an equivalent cargo of crushed glass for re-making into wine bottles back in France – sounds clever to me!

A €13.00 euro (£11) wine pass will buy you 12 wine tastings, while a €70 euro (£58) pass will cover access to nine tasting routes through the region’s vineyards, spread over the four days. So you can choose between St Emilion, the Medoc, Sauternes and Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers PLUS trips to explore the wines of BERGERAC and COTES DE DURAS.
Within the city there will be plenty of opportunities to celebrate, taste and learn. Discover the nuances of the region and the wide range of wines, styles and prices which are on offer. It’s not all finest vintage, wallet-busting stuff, but some really good value interesting wines.

Amongst the other attractions (beyond the City itself with its rich history and cultural heritage) there will be barrel-rolling competition, numerous parades by different wine guilds, music, dancing, a food and wine village – every day there will be racing on the river with some of the old boats which used to bring the wine into Bordeaux and up the Gironde and onto ocean-going ships for export; and a competition to swin across the Gironde – definitiely not recommended if you have been imbibing!

For more info see www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com

You can book direct with Rail Europe for Eurostar and TGV tickets from London to Bordeaux

As well as delivering to private customers in the UK, we supply some of the country’s leading chefs: our Bordeaux Blanc has been the house wine at all Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants for eight consecutive vintages and a bespoke Bauduc red is the top selling wine in his three Michelin star establishment – still the only London restaurant with that accolade. Our white is also a ‘special selection’ at Rick Stein’s.

Since they bought the Chateau in 1999 the reputation of the Chateau has grown, not an easy task in the competitive marketplace that is Bordeaux. There is a 4-bedroom farmhouse on the estate which

…. is rented out on a weekly basis, overlooks the vineyards and backs on to the farm buildings and chais where the wine is made and aged. This 18th century stone dwelling was completely restored in 2002 with painstaking attention to detail and is a great place to spend a week or two in lovely surroundings.

For more details see www.bauduc.com
Chateau Bauduc, Creon 33670, France T: 00 33 (0)5 56 23 06 05 Email: team@bauduc.com

It is hardly surprising then that a substantial proportion of the hundreds of thousands of Brits who own French property have been tempted by the apparently bucolic life of a vigneron……
Are there any French winemakers left down there?
I asked Walter McKinlay, whose Domaine de Mourchon southern Rhône wines are some of the most successful from a British domaine, whether his Domaine de Mourchon wines were financially viable. He frowned. “Just about,” he said cautiously, then smiled. “But it’s a lovely lifestyle though.”

My own observation would be that it can be incredibly hard work and despite the attractions of the climate, landscape and the French way of life, it can also be very stressful. And as with all winemakers, a bad harvest, particularly in the early years can be devastating.

So, here’s our list of British vineyard owners (and 1 Irish couple) – that we are aware of (not an exhaustive list I am sure). Visits can be much more informative if the language is no barrier:-

Domaine de Laroux – Cotes de Gascogne, Armagnac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) – Nick and Karen Kitchener
Chateau Haut Garrigue - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Sean and Caroline Feely (the Irish couple running an organic vineyard also known as Wild Earth Vineyards)
Domaine de Fontenay – Cote Roannaise AC (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) – Simon and Isabelle Hawkins

Chateau Richard – Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Richard Doughty

Domaine de Merchien – Coteaux du Quercy and beer! (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees – David & Sarah Meakin

Clos d’Yvigne – Cotes de Bergeac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Patricia Atkinson

Chateau des Milles Anges – Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Cadillac AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Heather van Ekris

Chateau Lezongars - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Philip and Sarah Iles

Chateau Teyssier – Saint Emilion Grand Cru AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Jonathan and Lyn Maltus

Chateau de Sours – Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Esme & Sara Johnson

Domaine Gourdon – Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) – John Coulthard
Domaine du Grand Mayne – Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) – Andrew Gordon
Domaine de Begude – Limoux AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Catherine and James Kinglake
Domaine de Mourchon – Cotes du Rhone Seguret AC (84 Vaucluse, Provence) – Walter McKinley
Maison des Bulliats – Regnie AC Beaujolais (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) – Fred and Helen Lockwood
Chateau Méaume – Bordeaux Superieure AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill

Domaine a Sauvageonne – Coteaux du Languedoc AC, Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc – Roussillon) – Gavin Crisfield

Domaine Sainte Rose – Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Charles and Ruth Simpson

Chateau Bauduc - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Gavin and Angela Quinney

Domaine Sainte Croix - Corbieres AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Jon & Elizabeth Bowen

Chateau Monplaisir – Bergerac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – David and Helen Baxter

Chateau du Seuil  – Graves AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Sean and Nicola Allison

The event takes place on Sunday 18 May 2008 and includes a banquet, sheep dog demos, “meet the sheep”, sheep shearing, a Spring market, boat trips, an art exhibition and a chance to buy a beret!

Lamb is a specialty of the area, as there are marshy areas near the river which are totally unsuitable for vines, but excellent for rearing saltmarsh lamb. It makes Pauillac quite a contradiction and rather more lively than much of the Medoc – especially as there is the incongruity of an industrial port and oil terminal juxtaposed with some of the most valuable and celebrated vineyards on the planet.

For more info see www.pauillac-medoc.com

Our apartment was selected for its location in the heart of the city on the fashionable Rue des Remparts. This pedestrianised street is situated between the prestigious shopping street “Cours de l’Intendance” and the city’s fine Cathedral “St. André”. Rue des Remparts offers a smart selection of bistro restaurants, cafés, boutique clothes and jewellery shops, delicatessen and specialised gift shops.

The apartment is on the second floor of a bourgeois ‘pierre du taille’ (cut local stone) 19th. century building. This beautiful apartment has been beautifully renovated and finished with all-new furnishings, fixtures and fittings.

Offering a beautiful and light, open plan living space of more than 50m². With original wooden floors, high ceilings, marble fireplace and 3 exquisite cast iron ‘Juliette’ balconies overlooking the street.To the rear of the main room a corridor connects to two separate comfortable double bedrooms and a modern shower room. The apartment is fully furnished and equipped to a very high standard, tastefully presented and modern, but in keeping with its period.

In summary
Brief Summary:

Location map
For more info use the enquiry form below:-

cforms contact form by delicious:days

Its “Portes Ouvertes” in the Medoc on 12-13 April 2008. In this famous and celebrated wine region numerous chateaux will be holding open house in the prime appellations of Medoc, Haut-Medoc, St Estephe, Pauillac, Moulis-en-Medoc, Listrac-Medoc and Margaux.
This prized area which stretches north from Bordeaux up to the Pointe de Grave between the Atlantic and the mouth of the Gironde is home to some of the best wines in the world, so any opportunity to visit and taste is a great opportunity.
However, you are unlikely to be offered a sip of the finest old vintages, but samples of the latest 2007 vintage will be available in its very young and rather green and tannic state.
Many of the Chateaux are also hosting other events alongside the tastings – music, art or photography exhibitions and food in various forms. Just visiting these chateaux should be an experience, and tastings should be interesting!

For more info see www.pauillac-medoc.com

This offer is available to French Duck readers by quoting code WINE77 at the checkout.

Whilst I tend to prefer to support small independent wine merchants, Waitrose’ selections are often excellent, always reliable and generally good value.

This is a good selection of wines from all the main classic wine regions of France including reds from Beaujolais, Cahors, Fitou, Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone (Chapoutier) and a red Burgundy.

For the whites there is a Macon Lugny, Saumur, Bordeaux, Touraine Sauvignon and Chablis.

The offer means that a case of 12 bottles is just £55.00 including free UK delivery – i.e under £5.00 a bottle. And if you prefer only reds or only whites, you can have that for the same price (2 bottles of each). But this offer is only available with thediscount voucher code above and until 5 March 2008!

See Watirose online

For more info on visiting Bordeaux see www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

However, one august body to which my fond cynicism should not apply is the Jurade de St Emilion, who do have elaborate red robes, a spectacular procession through the town and a banquet which does justice to the fine wines of St Emilion. Every autumn they celebrate their “Ban des Vendanges” to mark the official start of the grape harvest, and many years ago I was lucky enough to accompany members of the Jurade on an extensive itinerary of tastings, a series of lavish meals with grand cru wines and the grand banquet. Although we were often only tasting young wines at the chateaux, some wonderful and mature vintages were brought out for the banquet.

As Timothy Hartley kindly informs me, the Jurade de St Emilion has a rich and important history in the development of the wines of St Emilion:
LA JURADE DE SAINT-ÉMILION

The roots of the Jurade lie deep in both French and English history – as its Arms, Great Seal and banners, which bear both the Lilies of France and the Lions of England, show. Saint-Émilion, together with the rest of Acquitaine, formed part of the dowry of Eleanor of Acquitaine on her marriage to King Henry II. The Jurade goes back at least as far as 1199, when their son, King John, confirmed privileges apparently earlier granted by Richard, Coeur de Lion. Saint-Émilion became effectively a free City under the Crown with the Jurade having control of its legal and economic affairs. The Jurats’ duties included the control of production, and sale of, wine, closely monitoring its quality, branding approved casks and destroying any which were unworthy. Under Edward I, in 1289, the area of the Jurisdiction was enlarged to cover what is still the wine growing area composing the appellations of Saint Émilion. In return for these privileges, the Crown required that regular, and very large consignments, of wine be tasted, judged, its good quality assured, and then be consigned to England in casks quality assured by the Jurade’s seal. After Saint-Émilion reverted to the French Crown, the Jurade’s rights and duties were confirmed by French Royal Charters but, in the French Revolution, Jurats lost both their heads and their privileges.
The Jurade no longer has its extensive former civic and legal powers but its Grand Council still sits once a year, in Spring, to conduct a blind tasting of the wines of Saint-Émilion to assess their merits and pronounce a Jugement du Vin Nouveau. In September, it authorises the start of picking, in a ceremonial Ban des Vendanges from the top of the Tour du Roi, the Jurats wearing the scarlet and white robe of their mediaeval predecessors and calling upon their spirits to witness the continuation of over 800 years of tradition, passion, experience and skill.
The Jurade honours its historic links by giving us the privilege of two Chancelleries, based in the two ancient leading cities of England, York, serving the north of England and Scotland, and London, for the south of England and Wales. They organise tastings for those who would like to know more about the Jurisdiction’s wines, often in combination with charitable fund raising. They also arrange visits to Saint-Emilion for members of the Association de la Jurade in England for the important festivals in Saint-Emilion’s calendar, the Fête de Printemps and the Ban des Vendanges. More information about their activities, and contact details, are on their website – www.jurade.org.uk. They are always happy to welcome new members and to introduce them to Saint-Émilion’s renowned hospitality, its beauty and its enormous range of wines.

St Emilion produces some of the best Bordeaux red wines, wines which in the Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes dominate. The town and vineyards of St Emilion (33, Gironde, Aquitaine) are to my mind the most interesting to visit, the town being on an outcrop and the vineyards stretching down to the Dordogne river. The Spring celebration “Fete de Printemps” takes place on the 3rd Sunday in June, whilst the harvest celebration “Ban des Vendanges” takes place on the 3rd Sunday in September.

For more info on St Emilion see www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com

UPDATE: The St Emilion Ban des Vendanges takes place on Sunday 21 September 2008

For a classy B&B in the region see www.chezkelly.eu

The region is one of the most vaunted wine producers in France but until recently many of visitors gave the city itself a pass. Prostitutes and shady characters strolled its rundown waterfront, black grime obscured the architecture.
But a recent regeneration project, backed by mayor (and former French Prime Minister) Alain Juppe, has scoured buildings, turned the area by the Garonne River to a sweeping promenade with a shallow pool reflecting the Place de la Bourse and resurrected its graceful beauty.
Multimedia

A new whisper-quiet tram, free from overhead lines in the central city, whisks visitors and locals around its 35kms tracks (expanding to 45kms).

For more info see Times Online
Bordeaux Tourist Office

Both appellations are designed to offer an alternative to an oversupply of Bordeaux and Beaujolais AC wines, offering winemakers the opportunity to make a wide range of wines with fewer restrictions. In the Pays de Gaules Gamay will be the overwhelmingly predominant grape, with Chardonnay, Pinot, Syrah, Viognier, Aligoté and 13 other allowed varietals.
However, there is a hitch in the system as the EU has ruled that the names of these 2 appellations are not sufficiently geographically recognisable. Someone, somewhere has got something wrong, which is a shame as these new wines could be very helpful if reducing the volume of over-priced and mediocre Bordeaux and Beaujolais and encourage some experimentation, WInemakers have been planning this new wine for some time, with labels already printed, as the above image demonstrates – from the Cave des Vignerons de St Laurent d’Oignt.
The new Vin de Pays des Gaules will not be allowed to compete with Beaujolais Nouveau however, as it cannot be marketed until mid-December, a month after the release of the Nouveau.

2005 Rive Haute Reserve Pacherenc 13.5%vol, France (£8.99 per 50cl; Playford Ros 01845 526777, Coe Vintners 020 8551 4966, Wheeler Cellars 01206 713560).Pacherenc du Vic-Bihl is the white wine AOC from Madiran in south-west France. Made from Gros and Petit Manseng, Petit Courbu and Arrufiac picked between St Martin’s Day (Nov 4) and St Albert’s Day (Nov 15), this has hints of lemon and apricot. Great with fruit tart.

This comes from the Plaimont Co-operative, who also produce another superb Pacherenc – Cuvée St Albert.- for more see www.plaimont.com
Other French wines on the list included a Jurancon from the Southwest, a Barsac from Bordeaux and a demi-sec Champagne from Pol Roger!

Johnathan Ray makes the point that we too often pigeonhole such wines as “dessert” or “pudding” wines, when there are ocassions when they can be a perfect compliment to other foods.

“Pan-fried foie gras, simple pâté de foie or even smoked fish at the start of a meal can work beautifully with a sticky. I once enjoyed a fine German Beerenauslese with a main course of roast wild boar.”

The artist Margaret Loxton is very English, and very Yorkshire – as is her style, but she has neverthess produced some very atmospheric images of France, and particularly French rural life. With her buxom men and women it may be a style you love or hate, but these pictures are so French they could not be anywhere else.

She has a whole series of scenes, including wine-related ones such as the Pavement Café in Riquewihr (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace) shown above, but also Nuits St Georges (Burgundy) and the Luberon (Provence).

Limited edition prints are available online from La Provence Collections (along with a host of other gift items and fabrics on a Provencal theme) – thet also have a shop on the Square at Stow-in-the-Wold, near Cheltenham, Glos.

If you don’t want a print, you can see some of pictures in her book

Travels Through Burgundy

The “Seigneurs” or “lords” is a self-selected group of some of the best Cahors producers – but whilst I will agree that they are amongst the best, there are other producers outside the hallowed group who produce great wines.

The Seigneurs of Cahors include Chateau de Mercuès, Chateau Haut-Serre, Chateau Leret-Monpezat, Chateau les Bouysses, Chateau de Caix, Chateau de Chambert, Chateau du Cedre, Prieuré de Cénac and Chateau Triguedina.

However, back to barrels and barriques. As it is France, there is inevitably quite a lot of regional variation in names and sizes. The most common is the Bordeaux barrique (as pictured) used for ageing (and sometimes) fermenting wines especially to impart the softening and oaky flavours that contact with oak (especially new oak) can bring to a wine. In Bordeaux this is usually a barrique of 225 litres. However, in Burgundy a 220 litre barrel is known as a “pièce”, although sometimes this is 228 litres in the Côte d’Or. You will also find a demi-pièce which holds half of the equivalent quantity.

On a larger scale come the pipe (400 litres), the tonne(or tonneau) at 1000 litres and ultimately the foudre which can be over 11,500 litres. These larger containers tend to be more for storage, as the larger the barrel gets the less contact the wine has with the wood. The larger foudre tends to be quite ancient and will impart no real “woodiness” or “oakiness” to the wine.

The smaller the barrel and the newer the oak, the more intense the impact on the wine will be. Many winemakers will use a proportion of new oak barrels with some that have been used for one or two harvests to get just the right amount of “oak” character in the wine.

Also the French being French, they will usually choose French oak from the massive forests of the Allier or the Troncais for example. American oak is sometimes used, but tends to have a more powerful oaky flavour than the more subtle French oak. There is a whole industry and mythology around the whole process of oak cultivation (sylviculture). cutting and drying the staves, toasting and making the barrels (tonnellerie). There is now cheaper oak available from Eastern Europe to complicate matters, and seeing as how a quality oak barrel from a good supplier can cost €700 or more, then price has to be a serious consideration for the winemaker.

For more info on the wines of Cahors see www.frenchduck.co.uk/cahors.html and www.vindecahors.fr

Certainly my visits to the wine regions of France this summer have been disappointing weatherwise, and unless the weather improves soon there may be a serious shortfall in the 2007 vintage. Really good weather from now until September could rescue the quality of the resultant wines, but not the quantity. However, the 10 day forecast for Bordeaux still seems to threaten rather changeable conditions rather than the reliably hot and sunny weather you would normally expect in mid/late July.

Alsace was also severely affected by localised hailstorms in June, which were so ferocious that cars were damaged by the hailstorms.

Just another reminder that owning a vineyard is seldom an easy option – pests, diseases, marauding animals, weather, the 35–hour week, customs bureaucracy….. all seem to conspire against you!

Certainly in recent years the city seems to have become more vibrant and less stuffy.

“With over 350 historic monuments in a protected area of 147 hectares, as well as 3 churches (Saint-André, Saint-Michel, and Saint-Seurin) that were already listed as World Heritage sites on the pilgrim road to Santiago de Compostela, Bordeaux had a number of assets to convince the jury.

Bordeaux’s successful bid as a World Heritage site also relied on several ambitious urban renewal projects begun in 1996 under the impetus of mayor Alain Juppé. These include development of the quays along the Garonne River, the restoration of many façades, and a light rail transit system.”

For more info see www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/

Arcachon for oysters and seafood, Bazas for beef.and almost everything in Bordeaux.

The following list is provided as an indicator of what markets take place whenin good faith, but bear in mind that some markets will only take place in the summer, others may be 2-weekly or monthly – always check with the local tourist office.

Andernos Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday
Arcachon daily
Ares Tuesday
Audenge Tuesday
Bazas Saturday
Blaye Wednesday, Saturday
Bordeaux – Aubiers Friday
Bordeaux – Bacalan Friday
Bordeaux – Belcier Tuesday
Bordeaux – Capucins Monday-Saturday
Bordeaux – Chartrons Tuesday-Saturday
Bordeaux – Grand Parc Saturday
Bordeaux – Grands Hommes daily exc Sunday
Bordeaux – La Bastide Thursday
Bordeaux – Lerme Wednesday, Saturday
Bordeaux – Pins-Francs Wednesday
Bordeaux – pl St-Amand Saturday
Bordeaux – pl St-Pierre Thursday
Bordeaux – Quais Sunday
Bordeaux – Royal Saturday
Bordeaux – St-Martial Wednesday
Bordeaux – St-Michel daily
Bordeaux – St-Suerin Friday
Bordeaux – St-Victor-Dupeux Tuesday
Bordeaux – Victor Hugo daily
Bourg-sur-Gironde Sunday
Cap-Ferret Wednesday
Captieux Monday
Castillon-la-Bataille Monday
Coutras Wednesday, Saturday
Creon Wednesday
Gujan-Mestras Wednesday
Hourtin Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday
La Teste Thursday, Saturday, Sunday
Lacanau Tuesday
Lacanau-Ocean Wednesday
Lege Saturday
Lesparre-Medoc Tuesday, Saturday
Libourne Tuesday, Friday, Sunday
Monsegur Tuesday, Friday
Pauillac Saturday
Sauveterre-de-Guyenne Tuesday
Soulac-sur-Mer daily
St-Andre-de-Cubzac Thursday, Saturday
Ste-Foy-la-Grande daily
Villandraut Thursday

We launched this venture in the spring of 2001 and are involved every step of the way, from the vine to the bottle, so that our wines are a true testimony of our concept of Bordeaux: fruit, balance and pleasure

Another reason to believe that these Bordeaux wines stack up is that Andrew Chapman at www.surf4wine.co.uk is stocking them. Surf4Wine has a strong leaning towards the New World, so any Old World wine has to compete directly with some really exciting wines from Australia and South America to get a place on the list.

www.surf4wine.co.uk stocks half a dozen of these Terra Burdigala wines from a Bordeaux AC at £6.99 up to a St Emilion Grand Cru at £18.99.

Of course, the other interesting thing in Bordeaux this week is the bi-annual wine trade exhibition – VINEXPO – probably the biggest wine gathering with exhibitors and buyers from around the world. Probably not a good week for visiting French vineyards, as many winemakers will have deserted their domaines and have decamped to Bordeaux for the 3-day event! Also probably not a good week to try to find a hotel room in Bordeaux either!

Hence for mere mortals who face the difficult choices of what to buy from Bordeaux on a tight budget there is some good advice and an interesting article on visiting Bordeaux by Laurence Marks in the Telegaraph (6 May 07)

“If you are running to a budget, always buy a poor year from a great château, and never a great year from lesser châteaux”. So slowly I built up a wine collection from some of the great châteaux of Bordeaux, and have enjoyed the pleasures of fine wine ever since.

I have to confess that I do not find the Bordeaux vineyards the most picturesque in France (that accolade probably goes to Alsace) – but I can recommend St Emilion – it is a pretty, interesting and historic village which is worth visiting even if you are not interested in wine.
One great way to discover St Emilion this summer would be through the St Emilion Tourist office:-

Every Friday from May 18th to September 14th. Appointment at the tourist office. A whole day spent discovering Saint-Emilion and the vineyards along with a lunch shared with the wine-maker.

Recommended reading:-
Dordogne, Bordeaux and the Southwest Coast (Eyewitness Travel Guides)
Bordeaux: Medoc & Graves v. 1 (Mitchell Beazley Classic Wine Library)
Robert Parker’s Bordeaux

The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux invites you to spend a weekend meeting the men and women behind the Grands Crus de Bordeaux.
An exceptional event: the Grands Crus will provide a warm welcome to Grands Amateurs, offering them the opportunity to taste “just like the experts”.
Meeting the people behind the wine: this weekend offers an ideal occasion to discuss with representatives of the famous châteaux of Bordeaux in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere.A treat for the senses: discover new taste sensations and share in the mystery of Bordeaux.
A trip combining tradition and modernity: become acquainted with the expertise and quest for excellence that have always been a feature of Bordeaux.

NB: The French term “Amateur” means “lover” (from “amour”) rather than inexpert, with the meaning that someone does something more from love than duty or profession. Hence I am sure there are wine trade experts who would also be quite happy being referred to as “amateurs” in France!

All the big name Bordeaux Grand Cru Chateaux will be there offering tastings of their wines at a Grand tasting on the Saturday along the Quai des Chartrons by the river – where all the old wine merchants and negociants were based. Tickets for the tasting cost €53 – which is less than an equivalent tasting in London with fewer wines on offer!!! You need to book in advance at http://www.ugcb.net/commerce/wga/programmeEN.html
In the evening there is a series of grand dinners held in various chateaux around Bordeaux – the cost includes transport from the city centre to and from the selected chateau! Sounds positively extravagant.
On the Sunday most of the major Chateaux have open days and there are conducted tours of the appellations of St Emilion, Sauternes, Graves and Medoc – transport and lunch included.

All this sounds quite wonderful and a superb way of learning and tasting more of the great chateaux of Bordeaux – and it need not be expensive as an all day pass to the Chateaux on the Sunday will only cost €15.00 – and gives you access to up to 40 of the major Chateaux!! And that itself is great, as some of the big Chateaux can be a little sniffy about “visitors” whilst others treat everyone like a tourist rather than wine lovers. On this day the welcome should be good – especially as the ticket proceeds will be going to charity.

Links:-
Full details on the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux website
Bordeaux Tourist Office

Recommended Reading
Dordogne, Bordeaux and the Southwest Coast (Eyewitness Travel Guides)
Wine Regions of France Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
Wines of Bordeaux (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guide to the Wines of Bordeaux)
Bordeaux Chateaux: A History of the Grands Crus Classes 1855-2005

Rennes (35 Ile-et-Villaine, Bretagne) 13-15 April 2007
Lyon (69 Rhône, Rhône-Alpes) 25-29 October 2007
Reims (51 Marne, Champagne-Ardenne) 9-12 November 2007
Lille (59 Nord, Nord Pas-de- Calais)16-19 November 2007
Paris (Porte de Versailles) 22-26 November 2007

Their selection of wines from other parts of the world looks to be equally well selected.

Private Cellar was launched in April 2005 by a team of wine trade professionals determined to provide a unique wine buying experience for wine lovers

Private Cellar
51 High Street, Wicken, Ely, Cambridgeshire, CB7 5XR
T: 01353 721 999 F: 01353 724 074 e: orders@privatecellar.co.uk
Website: www.privatecellar.co.uk

“La Winery, a 26ha wine tourism complex in Arsac-en-Médoc, boasts exhibition areas, park and picnic land with water features, an amphitheatre, restaurant, tasting rooms and 1,000 square metres of retail space. The complex is Bordeaux’s first such operation and is due to open on 1 March this year.”

Now I have to admit some ambivalence about this development – because whilst I detest the idea of some huge slick shopping mall-cum-theme park experience, it is not always a very visitor-friendly experience when visitiing French vineyards. At one extreme the fine Bordeaux and Burgundy vineyards can ve quite intimidating and sometimes do not welcome visitors without appointment or introduction. At the other end of the spectrum many small vineyards have few or no facilities for welcoming visitors and/or tasting wines, and can often be unattended during busy periods out in the vineyards or cellars. Furthermore language complicates matters, and some Champagne houses will actually make a charge for tasting to deter free-loaders.

And yet, some of my most memorable experiences have been at small vineyards, meeting interesting and passionate winemakers, many of whom are very welcoming and genuinely keen to show you their wines, respond to your questions and to get feedback on their wines – regardless of language difficulties. You can walk away with a few bottles which will evoke a wealth of memories back at home – connection with the vineyard and winemaker which can enhance your enjoyment of the wine.

See our Guide to Visiting French Vineyards and for some suggestions on vineyards to visit see www.frenchduck.co.uk/winemakers.htm

For more info on La Winery see www.lawinery.fr