Bordeaux wines

4-5 December 2009 in the heart of Paris offers an opportunity to taste and learn about wines from many well-known names and most wine regions of France.

Over the 2 days you can taste wines direct from the producer and attend numerous masterclasses to enhance your appreciaton of wine. Unusually there is also a selection of Italian wines available to try. Bordeaux Chateau such as Chateau Laroze (St Emilion) will be there as well as producers from Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Corsica, Loire and Rhône etc.

Carrousel du Louvre , 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris – see www.grandtasting.com

Gite Grape Escape at Saussignac

One of my preferred vineyard gites is at the organic Chateau Haut Garrigue just outside the village of Saussignac in the western Dordogne valley (24 Dordogne, Midi-Pyrenees) where Sean and Carolyne Feely originally from South Africa and Ireland have built up the vineyard (Saussignac AOC and Bergerac AOC) and also created a superb gite with great views over the valley and adjoining countryside – with their Wild Earth Vineyards venture they can also offer a variety of other diversions to help you enjoy the area and the wines!

Join us this summer to partake of wonderful fresh organic herbs, home-laid organic eggs and delectable wines that Chateau Haut Garrigue has to offer. What makes our self-catering cottage really stand out are the extraordinary views; they help to relax, to feel weightless and carefree.

If you haven’t finalised your summer plans we still have a few weeks left and for 5 days only (until this Monday May 18th) we’re offering 20% off the weekly rental price. As we say in France – une affaire a saisir – an offer not to be missed!

Appropriately they have named the gite “The Grape Escape”. They still have a few weeks available throughout the summer which are offered at a discount for early bookings. AND you will be in easy reach of the vineyards of Bergerac, Cotes de Duras and St Emilion. For more info see http://frenchduck.co.uk or use the enquiry form below:

cforms contact form by delicious:days

As part of our series highlighting places to stay, eat. visit, shop etc in France, the City of Bordeaux has been transformed in recent years from a rather sombre, mercantile city and port into a modern and vibrant centre for a long weekend or longer…..

Where to stay?

Bordeaux City Centre Apartment – - selected for its location in the heart of the city on the fashionable Rue des Remparts. This pedestrianised street is situated between the prestigious shopping street “Cours de l’Intendance” and the city’s fine Cathedral “St. André”. Rue des Remparts offers a smart selection of bistro restaurants, cafés, boutique clothes and jewellery shops, delicatessen and specialised gift shops.

Where to eat – recommended

Le Vieux Bordeaux – Nearly a neighborhood institution, this restaurant ranks among the top five in a highly competitive market. Specialties include roasted sea bass on a gratin of pulverized black olives; thin-sliced escalopes of duck foie gras with coffee-flavored sauce; and “Oriental” (sweet-and-sour) pigeon with lime sauce. For a fixed price lunch expect to pay around €19. Tel no. – 05-56-52-94-36 Address 27 rue Buhan – Booking Essential!

Where to eat – gourmet

La Tupina – One of Bordeaux’s most talented chefs runs this cozy spot with a summer terrace near quai de la Monnaie. It’s been called “a tribute to country kitchens and the grandmothers who cooked in them.” Jean-Pierre Xiradakis’s specialty is duck, so your meal may begin with croutons spread with duck rillettes, and the kitchen often uses duck giblets, skin, and livers in salads. Other specialties are roasted shoulder of lamb en confit with garlic and white beans, lamprey eel à la Bordelaise, and steaks grilled and barbecued at the table. Desserts usually include pears marinated in red bordeaux wine. Website www.latupina.com – 6 rue de la Porte de la Monnaie Tel no. – 05-56-91-56-37 For a fixed price lunch or dinner expect to pay around €50. Booking recommended.

Where to eat – value for money

L’entrecote – A bordeaux institution. The best steak and chips in Town – not suitable for vegetarians! 4 Cours du 30 Juillet. Tel no. 05 56 81 76 10. Not necessary to book, but arrive early as long queues are the norm. Pepone Italian – 31 Cours Georges Clemenceau, 33000 Bordeaux – 05 56 44 91 05 Superb pizzas and anti pasta. Expect to queue.

Local wine/drink

Bordeaux of course!

Market

The quarter of Saint-Michel, built around the flamboyant gothic style Basilica, dedicated to the Archangel is by far the most lively and colourful quarter in the city.

There is a market under the beautiful spire every Monday and Saturday morning, and the shops around the square make for a lively and authentic atmosphere that the Bordelais poets such as Meste Verdié and Ulysse Despaux have always appreciated.

Must see

Musée d’Aquitaine An outstanding museum with over 25,000 years of history end ethnography. Exceptional artefacts include several prehistoric stone carvings of women and a collection of Gallo-Roman steles, statues and ceramics. Musée des Beaux-Arts Bordeaux’s fine art museum, is located in two wings of the 1770’s Hotel de Ville (2 minutes walk from the Apartment). It includes 17th century Flemish, Dutch and Italian paintings and 20th century works by Matisse, Picasso and others. Just around the block is the Galerie des Beaux-Arts, which hosts short-term exhibitions (check the Bordeaux Tourist information official website for up to date information). CAPC Musée d’Art Contemporain Housed in what was the main Colonial Foodstuffs Warehouse in the 19th century, this museum features more than 600 works by more than 100 artists. It includes French paintings from the 1970’s, paintings from the 1980’s and a selection of works by contemporary artists. Musée d’Histoire Naturelle The natural history museum is located near the Jardin Public. This museum was founded at the time of the French Revolution. There is a huge collection of animal and plant specimens, particularly on the regions famous palaeontology. Notre-Dame Church The very pinnacle of Baroque art in Bordeaux, the church has a brilliant décor of exceptional quality: wrought-iron work, a superb organ case, a pulpit carved in red marble and 18th. century paintings. Place de la Bourse Open to the river, dedicated to Louis XV, the square remains one of the purest “classics” of 18th century style. An equestrian statue of Louis XV used to stand in the middle. It was destroyed during the revolution and later replaced by the Fountain of the Three Graces (Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugénie and the Queen of Spain). This was the first monumental ensemble to be illuminated in the city’s ‘Plan Lumière’.

A bit of culture?

The Grand Théâtre Built from 1773 to 1780 by architect Victor Louis, The Grand Théâtre, a master-piece of neo-classical architecture stands on the site of a Gallo-Roman monument, the Piliers de Tutelle temple, which was destroyed in 1674. Restored to its original décor, the auditorium is admired as one of the finest in the world. The stairwell is grandiose and the stairs are decorated in the antique style featuring a caryatid theme.

Shopping

The Quartier Centre Ville to the north of the Hotel de Ville

Somewhere for a stroll

The Jardin Public Representing 10 hectares of public gardens in the city centre, The Jardin Public was created by Tourny, Royal Intendant, in 1746. It was designed to link the city with Faubourg Saint-Seurin and Chartrons. In 1856, the garden was re-developed in the “English” style by landscape architects Fisher and Escarpit. The Botanical Gardens have been present here since 1855, and feature a collection of around 3,000 different species of living plants.

Something for the kids

“Family Plus”, an ideal destination for the young and the not so young! Families travelling with young children can rely on the “Family Plus” hallmark and seal of approval to make sure their holiday in Bordeaux is a success.

The hallmark makes it easy to see just what is on offer for families in terms of holiday destinations and family-friendly services available when they get there.

The scheme helps reconcile the differing expectations of children and their parents, by ensuring that the holiday offers what everyone in the family is looking for: special prices, special activities for children led by professional staff, special family-centred accommodation and services…

…and then they can get together again afterwards.

Getting there

Bordeaux Airport (Merignac) offers plenty of international flights ibncluding Aer Arann, Brtish Airways , bmi baby, bmi, easyjet and Flybe,. TGV high speed train direct from Paris with Eurostar connections from London Autorute A10 from Paris

Getting around

New tramway system serves the centre.Buses serve the whole city area. “Bordeaux Discovery” cards are available

When to go

Bordeaux has a host of specially organised year round attractions and events.Here is a small selection of a few of them. For further information regarding any of the below and a full listing of what’s on, please contact Bordeaux Tourist Information centre. The Bordeaux Salon des Antiquaires, held in the Parc des Expositions, is among France’s finest fairs. Around 200 top antique dealers from all over France and beyond descend on the wine capital to display their antiques. All exhibits are checked by the on-site team of experts to verify authenticity and quality. Bordeaux International Showing Jumping Event The best international jumpers and their riders compete at the Bordeaux-Lac Exhibition Centre during this world-class show jumping event. Official Website: www.bordeaux-expo.com Bric-a-brac Market The lively Foire à la Brocante (bric-a-brac market) takes place in Bordeaux’s huge Parc des Expositions every spring and autumn. Although not as prestigious as the annual Antiques Fair, attendance is free and you may just uncover a prize antique…

Around 300 traders from all over France and Europe attend. Quality is not guaranteed, nor is authenticity, but prices are affordable and there is a vast choice of 17th-19th century antiques, ranging from furniture to postage stamps, antique jewellery, dolls and pictures.(7-8 March 2009) The Bordeaux Spring Fair in the Place des Quinconces is an annual tradition in Bordeaux. A mix of exhibits and stands from plants to antiques and many local food producers all line up in the atmospheric Place des Quinconces (April 25- 10 May 2009) Bordeaux International Fair The Bordeaux International Fair is the largest of its kind in France. With 2500 exhibitors from 50 countries and more than 300,000 visitors it is a great place to spend a few hours (even a couple of days.) (16-25 May 2009) Vinexpo One of the world wine industry’s premier events held at the Parc des Expositions. This year more than 2500 exhibitors will be pushing their wares to some 60,000 trade and press visitors. Les Epicuriales Festival Celebrates the flavours and cultures of the world along Bordeaux’s leafy Allées de Tourny.

During this summer festival, around 30 restaurants pop up, spilling out on to the sunny terrasses. Musicians perform everything from reggae to rock while street theatre and an evening art and craft market add to the festive atmosphere. At the centre of the celebrations, visitors can taste world and local wines in a large tent, L’espace Epicuriales. (28 May – 1 Jun 2009)

For a longer stay…..

Bordeaux is undoubtedly most famous worldwide for its superb wines. It is the capital of the region known as Aquitaine and is a major cultural centre and a transportation hub between southern France and Spain. The elegant city is rich in history, culture, arts, music, legendary wines and gastronomy. It is not only the fine wines capital of the world but also a vibrant centre of trade, industry, services and business.

The city centre is known for its neoclassic architecture and wide avenues, which over recent years have undergone a major investment programme to include cleaning up the building facades and renovate the quayside, to make a fashionable restaurant and bar district. A state of the art tram system is now operating in the city, which has reduced traffic congestion and left the city centre pedestrianised and easy to navigate.

Bordeaux is a fantastic showcase for Romanesque, gothic and Renaissance art displayed in museums, churches, forts, galleries, mansions, gardens and public walkways and buildings.

The elegant city is rich in history, culture, arts, music, legendary wines and gastronomy. It is not only the fine wines capital of the world but also a vibrant centre of trade, industry, services and business.

The city centre is known for its neoclassical architecture and wide avenues, which over recent years have undergone a major investment programme to include cleaning up the building facades and renovate the quayside, to make a fashionable restaurant and bar district. A state of the art tram system is now operating in the city, which has reduced traffic congestion and left the city centre pedestrianised and easy to navigate.

Bordeaux is a fantastic showcase for Romanesque, gothic and Renaissance art displayed in museums, churches, forts, galleries, mansions, gardens and public walkways and buildings.

For more info on Bordeaux see www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/ Recommendations kindly provided by Jane at Bordeaux City Centre Apartment

Domaine le Fort

For the first time this November there will be a French Wine Growers Fair in London (21-23 November 2008 at the Barbican). The Salons des Vignerons Independents (Independent Winemakers Fairs) are well established in France and we usually try to get to one of the fairs in Lille, Strasbourg or Paris which take place each November/December. (for more info see www.frenchduck.com) – these tend to be huge events with up to 1000 winemakers attending and offering the public the opportunity to meet the people who make the wine, do some tastings and stock up for the winter.
London’s French Wine-Growers Fair attempts to replicate the format in London from 21-23 November 2008 – with 130 traditional wine makers showing their wines – more than 500 wines on taste – and the opportunity to buy at vineyard gate prices (although regrettably with UK excise duty and VAT payable).
One of the exhibitors is a favourite of mine – Domaine le Fort from the little-known appellation of Malepère AOC near Carcassonne in the Languedoc. This is a small but beautiful domaine which is centred around a building which looks as though it was a fort for the French Foreign Legion, where Stephanie and Marc Pagès make delightful wines such as the Tour du Fort, a blend of Merlot, Grenache and Cabernet Franc, aged in oak. Not otherwise available in the UK, this could be a rare opportunity to taste and buy wines which seldom get to our shores, often because the volume of production is insufficient for the supermarkets and other importers.

Half-Price tickets (£10 reduced from £20) available from www.frenchwinegrowersfair.com – Domaine le Fort is on stand 22
For more info on Domaine le Fort see www.domainelefort.com

It can be a bit of a surprise to discover just how cosmopolitan rural France can be – a tribute to its sheer attractiveness to many nations – so a small hotel/B&B run by a Dane and a New Zealander in a French chateau near Bordeaux could be an interesting combination with an intriguing mix of cultures and traditions. Situated in Meihan (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) within easy reach of St Emilion and the other less-pictureseque Bordeaux vineyards – and the vineyards of the Cotes du Marmandais and Cotes de Duras.

Chez Kelly is a Hip-Chic-Boutique hotel particuliere…in a chateau, appealing to discerning customers who enjoy a unique and discrete holiday experience in premium surroundings. Located in the famous 15th century “Chateau de Sauvin” bordering the Canal du Lateral, nearby the Garonne river and medieval town of Meilhan, the Chez Kelly concept is a mix of classic French and contemporary Scandinavian design.

Unlike other B+B offerings, hosts Brendan and Keld encourage guests to relax around the pool, play tennis, boules or billiards in the lounges, terraces and parklands enjoying “hotel like” daytime residency, without the maddening crowd. This is typified by the “New Zealand” friendly, casual style coupled with “Danish” reserve and respect for the privacy of our guests, making Chez Kelly your “home” for a holiday experience. The accommodation looks very stylish – a long way from the normal rustic French tradition. They clearly offer a different approach including “table d’hote” dining with style.

Being in the centre of some serious wine-making regions they are also offering an opportunity to get really involved with the wine harvest in September/October – so instead of just drinking wine; what about actually participating in the harvest, picking the grapes, be a part of the process! Learn a bit more about winemaking, get to know some of the local wines and have a good time to boot! The region also looks stunning as the early autumn colours start to kick in.

What are we offering? – Depending on the length of stay and picking days, we will arrange for you to spend 1-2 mornings picking grapes on one of our selected vineyards followed by participation in their harvest lunch. In addition we can arrange tasting sessions in different wine regions (we have Marmandais, Duras, Graves et Sauternes, Buzet and St Emilion all within 60km), a gourmet tour of a foie gras producer and a specialty oils producer. We can even arrange a chauffer driven service if you want to cut loose.

Chez Kelly, Château de Sauvin (off the D113) Meilhan, 47180

The port cities of Bordeaux and Bristol both played a distinguished role in the history of the wine trade, such that even in the 13th century more than 85 per cent of all imported wine came from South West France and as much as 3,000 tons (750,000 gallons) was being landed in Bristol.
The trade with Bordeaux fluctuated, dependent on our relationship with France (war, peace, occupation) but key names in the UK wine trade were established in Bristol, such as Harveys and Averys. Both Bristol and Bordeaux have the advantaghe that navigable rivers reach right into the heart of the city. In Bordeaux the “Quai des Chartrons” on the Garonne river front. In 2007 the cities of Bristol and Bordeaux celebrated the 60th Anniversary of their twinning.

Sadly little there remains little of that trade physically – no cargo ships leave the Chartrons quayside, and in Bristol only Averys of the long-established merchants remains in the city centre.
However, all that could change with a shipping company (CTMV – Compagnie de Transport Maritime a Voile) starting to use sailing ships to transport wine from Bordeaux, initially to Ireland, but later to Bristol. Initial consignments are of Languedoc wines, which are initially transported by barge on the Canal du Midi to Bordeaux and then loaded onto the sailing ship Belem for the 4-5 day crossing to Ireland. This trip with a load of 60,000 bottles will save over 18,000 lbs of carbon emissions – so a veritable eco-friendly wine.

UPDATE

The Telegraph (25 July 2008) has a report on the same company bringing a “Green Energy” wine to Ireland:-

The first commercial cargo of wine shipped from France by sail since the late 1800s arrived in Ireland on Friday aboard a British schooner, with almost zero petrol costs and carbon emissions.
Some 30,000 bottles of “green energy” wine, arrived in Dublin aboard the 108-year old Kathleen and May – the last wooden hull three-masted topsail schooner in existence – after leaving Brest a week ago with a stop at Penzance.

Each bottle carried has saved 4.9 oz of carbon dioxide emissions compared with a regular shipment. The wines come with the label: “Carried by sailing ship, a better deal for the planet.”

Furthermore the return trip is planned to be with an equivalent cargo of crushed glass for re-making into wine bottles back in France – sounds clever to me!