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The Vignerons Independants (independent wine makers) of the Vins de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne hold their annual wine festival in the town of Eauze (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) on 26 July 2008. More than 50 winemakers will be offering tastings. The Cotes de Gascogne is best known for making light fruity whites wines (90% of the production), typically from Colombard or Ugni Blanc grapes, but there are also some good Sauvignon Blancs and Gros Manseng.

However, many winemakers will also produce Armagnac and Floc de Gascogne which are also based on Colombard and Ugni Blanc grapes. Floc de Gascogne is a blend of unfermented grape juice and Armagnac which served chilled is a refreshing aperitif, available in white and rose styles.

Duck, Goose, Foie Gras, Cassoulet, Madiran, Armagnac and all the other good rich produce of the land feature in Martin Calder’s book A Summer in Gascony: Discovering the Other South of France which offers a good summer read if you are interested in absorbing a bit of “la France profonde”.
This is the story of a student summer working in Gascony a few years ago, based at the isolated Auberge in Peguilhan (31 Haut-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees)in the Comminges area of Gascony. Staying several months on a working farm and auberge gives a different and well-informed and affectionate view of the land, its people and traditions. I suspect many of us head south to try to capture just a glimpse of the essence of a place where people and nature seem to have found a natural harmony, enriched by the bounteous harvest of its farmers and winemakers. In between the story of the summer’s work and play Martin Calder offers you a wealth of snippets of information, whether it be about the wine (and Armagnac), the history (and the links between the Gascons and the British), the fiercely independent Gascon character (decidedly not French!), the Gascon beret and tradtional cooking. It is perhaps the sense of being distant from the pressures of modern city life which pervades the region - the rhythms of the seasons and the weather. I suspect that much has changed at the auberge since his days at Peguilhan (as suggested in his epilogue), but Gascony still has many quiet hidden corners; the people remain as down-to-earth and welcoming, the food, wine and Armagnac as good as ever.
A Summer in Gascony: Discovering the Other South of France

Jancis Robinson in the Financial Times (12 May 08) talks about the growing number of Brits who have followed their dream and bought a vineyard in France.

It is hardly surprising then that a substantial proportion of the hundreds of thousands of Brits who own French property have been tempted by the apparently bucolic life of a vigneron……
Are there any French winemakers left down there?
I asked Walter McKinlay, whose Domaine de Mourchon southern Rhône wines are some of the most successful from a British domaine, whether his Domaine de Mourchon wines were financially viable. He frowned. “Just about,” he said cautiously, then smiled. “But it’s a lovely lifestyle though.”

My own observation would be that it can be incredibly hard work and despite the attractions of the climate, landscape and the French way of life, it can also be very stressful. And as with all winemakers, a bad harvest, particularly in the early years can be devastating.

So, here’s our list of British vineyard owners (and 1 Irish couple) - that we are aware of (not an exhaustive list I am sure). Visits can be much more informative if the language is no barrier:-

Domaine de Laroux - Cotes de Gascogne, Armagnac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) - Nick and Karen Kitchener
Chateau Haut Garrigue - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Sean and Caroline Feely (the Irish couple running an organic vineyard also known as Wild Earth Vineyards)
Domaine de Fontenay - Cote Roannaise AC (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) - Simon and Isabelle Hawkins

Chateau Richard - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Richard Doughty

Domaine de Merchien - Coteaux du Quercy and beer! (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees - David & Sarah Meakin

Clos d’Yvigne - Cotes de Bergeac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - Patricia Atkinson

Chateau des Milles Anges - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Cadillac AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Heather van Ekris

Chateau Lezongars - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Philip and Sarah Iles

Chateau Teyssier - Saint Emilion Grand Cru AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Jonathan and Lyn Maltus

Chateau de Sours - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Esme & Sara Johnson

Domaine Gourdon - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - John Coulthard
Domaine du Grand Mayne - Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) - Andrew Gordon
Domaine de Begude - Limoux AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Catherine and James Kinglake
Domaine de Mourchon - Cotes du Rhone Seguret AC (84 Vaucluse, Provence) - Walter McKinley
Maison des Bulliats - Regnie AC Beaujolais (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) - Fred and Helen Lockwood
Chateau Méaume - Bordeaux Superieure AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill

Domaine a Sauvageonne - Coteaux du Languedoc AC, Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc - Roussillon) - Gavin Crisfield

Domaine Sainte Rose - Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Charles and Ruth Simpson

Chateau Bauduc - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) - Gavin and Angela Quinney

Domaine Sainte Croix - Corbieres AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) - Jon & Elizabeth Bowen

Chateau Monplaisir - Bergerac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - David and Helen Baxter

Maison Deau’s cellars are situated near Gemozac in the Charentes, between the town of Cognac and the sea.
This is a long-established family Cognac house, which until recently sold most of its production to one of the major marques in Cognac, but has now decided that it is proud enough of the quality of its products to sell under its own family name.
The quality outstrips that of the better-known brands at a most competitive price!
The domaine (Domaine de Chaillaud) produces fine Cognacs of various ages, including some very ancient vintages.

The domaine also produces PINEAU DES CHARENTES - a delightful blend of unfermented grape juice and fine Cognac, similar in style to the Floc de Gascogne made with Armagnac in Gascogny.- “This cousin of Cognac is the most delicious drink in the world”THE TIMES - Saturday 26 July 2003
Pineau des Charentes is the result of the subtle blending of fresh grape juice selected at harvest time, and Cognac. It can be enjoyed chilled as an aperitif or as a pleasant accompaniment to melon or foie gras etc

The grapes ripen on the soft slopes of the Saintonge (the area around the town of SAINTES) hillsides. They benefit from the microclimate lent by their proximity to the Gironde estuary (intense luminosity and moderate temperature changes).The soils are hot, either of clay-chalk (as in Champagne) or a lean sand-silica filtering type permitting early growth. This blend of Cognac with unfermented Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grape juice is not dissimilar to a light port - good sweet berry flavours.

The domaine also has an impressive Botantical Garden which is well worth a visit even if you are not interested in Cognac or Pineau. There is also a small museum and a tour of the cellars available.- see www.deau.com

Address details:-

Deau SVS, Le Chaillaud, 17260 St André-de-Lidon

Tel:05 46 90 08 10
Fax:05 46 90 04 01
E: info@deau.com

See more about Maison Deau on www.frenchduck.com

Gers (32 Midi-Pyrenees) is a land rich in history (Three Musketeers), rolling countryside and home to Armagnac, Madiran, Côtes de St Mont and Côtes de Gascogne wines. It is predominantly quiet and rural with few major towns or through routes. Hence its weekly markets tend to be really good with lots of top quality local produce on sale - and a real atmosphere of deepest France. I can particularly recommend Nogara - where the Saturday market tends to take over the town, and Auch where the range of produce is impressive.

The information here is provided in good faith, but do bear in mind that some markets may not take place every week, and sometimes not at all outside the summer season. Its always best to check with the local tourist office - or with locals.

Read more on this…

In deepest Gascony, an English couple Karen and Nick Kitchener bought a vineyard producing Cotes de Gascogne wines and Armagnac at Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees).

The domaine offers both gite and Bed and Breakfast accommodation surrounded by the vines.

For more info see http://www.lauroux.com

see map

Self-Catering Cottages and Bed & Breakfast Accommodation in a listed 17th Century domaine in Gascony - 35 acres, lakes, pool and Spa
Ideal location for visiting Madiran, Jurancon, Côtes de St Mont, Côtes de Gascogne, Armagnac, Floc de Gascogne vineyards.
Situated just 10 minutes drive south of Auch (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees - see map), Peyloubère is classified as a ‘Monument Historique’ by virtue of the fact that it was the home of the Italian painter, Mario Cavaglieri for over forty years. Legacies of his ownership are the frescoed ceilings in many of the rooms of the Manoir, the graceful Italian garden and the relaxed, bohemian atmosphere of the Domaine.
T: 00 33 562 05 74 97
F: 00 33 562 05 75 39
E:Martin@Peyloubere.com
Address: Domaine de Peyloubère, 32550, Pavie, Le Gers.
Website: www.peyloubere.com

Armagnac is a brandy from Gascony with similarities to Cognac which is made 100 miles to the north in the Charentes.

Armagnac pre-dates cognac by about 150 years but never seems to have been as commercially successful or available, tending to be appreciated more by restaurants, connoisseurs and the locals.There are 3 Aramgnac producing areas - Bas Armagnac, Tenareze and Haut Armagnac - of which Bas Armagnac produces the best brandies - “Bas” means low, but that refers to the altitude, not the quality.

Armagnac is made from distilled wine, four grapes are commonly used: Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Bacco, not dissimilar to Cognac’s grapes. But the distillation is quite different - the Armagnac “alambic” still is a continuous distillation process, which produces a higher and purer concentration of spirit than Cognac’ double distillation process.

Bottle labelling can be a bit confusing. 3 stars indicates a minimum of 2 years ageing; VSOP or Réserve, a minimum of 5 years; Napoléon, Vieille Réserve or XO, a minimum of 6 years; and Hors d’Age, which must be at least 10 years old.
A viintage Armagnac e.g.1967 must contain Armagnacs made in the named year, but it is actually the year of bottling which is more important, as maturation does not continue after bottling - it only matures in the wooden vat.

Tasting Armagnac (and Cognac) is a little different to the technique for tasting wine, essentially because the alcohol level is so high (40-43%). Small tapered glasses are better than the traditional brandy balloon. Contrary to common practice, warming the glass is not recommended for tasting, as this releases the alcohol rather than the flavour.

Ideally a “good” Armagnac should be wonderfully balanced between the fiery or even fierce impact of the alcohol and the delicacy of the fruit characteristics, overlaid with the oaky, woody tones from the maturation process. Too much tannin from the wooden vats will dry out the spirit, but get it right and you can find wonderfully nutty, woody characteristics.

The best Armagnacs will be smooth, rich and warming, with great persistence in the mouth. There is a world of difference between cheap Armagnac and the best vintage or well-aged versions.

Domaine de Lauroux in the Gers produces some excellent Armagnacs and is run by Karen and Nick Kitchener, an English couple.
For more info see www.lauroux.com

For more on Armagnac see www.armagnac.fr

The Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) is run by English couple Nick and Karen Kitchener, who also make wines and Floc de Gascogne on their 19 hectare vineyard in the Bas Armagnac region.
Their Armagnacs are made from 100% Ugni Blanc grapes grown on silica clay soils on slopes and plateaux in the gently undulating countryside of deepest Gascony. Here the climate is Oceanic (from the Atlantic), but tempered by the Landes Forest to the west and the Pyrenees mountains to the south.

Armagnacs are created slowly using traditional methods of continuous distillation in an “alambic” still. In autumn the Ugni Blanc grapes are harvested and fermented into wine which is then distilled on the domaine in November or December in the wood-fired still.

After distillation the “eaux de vie”, which is colourless is kept in new oak barrels or the first few years of ageing - it is at this stage that the Armagnac gains its colour. The spirit is still in its fiery youth but already has aromatic, fruity scents including pear and prune. Once it has absorbed the tannins from the wood it is placed in older barrels to develop complexity and extra sweetness arriving at a perfect state of blance between the tannins, aromas and alcohol. Ageing can last for decades and required enormous patience - only time can do the work.

During ageing a partial evaporation takes place - typically 0.5% vol.alc per year - known in Gascony as “the angels’ share”. As the ageing process continues the alcohol decreases progressively by evaporation and the spirit takes on a fine amber, then mahogany colour.

Armagnac does not age further in the bottle, and can be enjoyed immediately after purchase. The bottle sould be kept upright so that the alcohol does not affect the cork.

The domaine has a range of Armagnacs available:-
VSOP
10 ans (10 years aged)
Hors d’Age (literally “without age” but means at least 10 years ageing)
15 Ans (15 years aged)
25 Ans Special Edition (25 years aged)
Plus individual vintages including
1929, 1937, 1946, 1950, 1957, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1967, 1968, 1970, 1972. 1974, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982. 1983, 1985, 1986. 1987, 1990
For tasting notes and info on the Domaine de Lauroux’s 1967 and 15 year old Armagnacs see www.frenchduck.com

For more info on Domaine de Laroux - see www.lauroux.com
For more info on Armagnac (in french) see www.armagnac.org
For hints on tasting Armagnac see www.renchduck.co.uk

The epic story of the Côtes de Saint-Mont vineyards began in the fourth century BC, when the first plants were imported by the Greeks. It is thus one of the oldest vineyards in France. Then one witnessed an important development from 1050 with the founding of the Saint-Mont Abbey by Benedictine monks. The monks were particularly interested by an area already colonised by the vine. The ‘crus’ developed and these ‘fine wines from Gascony’ were exported to the United Kingdom as early as the 14th century. Today the appellation Côtes de Saint-Mont stretches over 49 villages in the Gers. Wines are considered as ‘discovery wines’ or ‘terroir wines’ and are experiencing a promising revival. As far back as the 11th Century the arrival of Benedictine monks (from the Abbey de Marcillac in Burgundy) helped to improve the wines of the area, and being on one of the roads to Santiago de Compostella they quickly acquired a reputation
In the heart of Gascony (Gascogne) the landscape is of gently rolling hills with good soil and exposure to the sun. The climate is gentle and ideal for maturing grapes in late season.
VDQS is the abbreviation for VIN DÉLIMITÉ DE QUALITÉ SUPERIEURE - a classification which is slightly more generous than full Appellation Controllée (AC) status. As such it is a guarantee that the wines come from a small specific geographical area, and must contain certain minimum percentages of specified grape varieties (usually traditional to the area), and hence conform broadly to a particular style, However, there is more flexibility for the winemaker in yields and the addition of other grape varieties in the blend. We like to think of them mainly as Very Delicious Quaffing Selections, but are also capable of producing some really fine and serious wines. This is another example of the French classification system becoming less relevant, as all three wines which we stock from the Côtes de St Mont are much better than many other wines we have tasted which are classified as “Appellation Controllée!

PRODUCTEURS PLAIMONT. We generally prefer to work with smaller individual domaines, but the Plaimont co-operative is streets ahead of other co-ops - producing excellent and distinctive wines of consistent quality at keen prices. It has had the benefit of good management and leadership, which has ensured that, unlike many co-operatives, it does not work at the comfort level of the weakest members. Instead it has been visionary and innovative, and most importantly places the highest emphasis on wine quality.