Many visitors may feel squeamish or even disapproving about the spectacle of bull-fighting, but it is a long-maintained tradition in Provence and southern France, especially in the Camargue.  You can however still enjoy the spectacle (and avoid the risk of any gore)by seeing the noisy and colourful parades and bull-running through the town. My view is that if you really object to this form of “entertainment” then avoid the area.

The bull-fighting (corrida) takes place in the spectacular Roman Arena in Arles, and there are other options such as the  Course Camargaise, which is another local form of bullfighting without the drawing of any blood.

About course camarguaise:  It is a summer pastime practiced in many small towns around Arles and the area. There are local leagues which are reported in local newspapers..
This different kind of bullfighting is known alternately as “course libre” or “course camarguaise“. This is a bloodless spectacle (for the bulls) in which the objective is to snatch a rosette from the head of a young bull.

The participants, or raseteurs, begin training in their early teens against young bulls from the Camargue region before graduating to regular contests held principally in Arles and Nîmes but also in other Provençal and Languedoc towns and villages.
Before the course, anencierro — a “running” of the bulls in the streets — takes place, in which young men compete to outrun the charging bulls. The course itself takes place in a small (often portable) arena erected in a town square.
For a period of about 15–20 minutes, the raseteurs compete to snatch rosettes (cocarde) tied between the bulls’ horns. They don’t take the rosette with their bare hands but with a claw-shaped metal instrument called a raset or crochet(hook) in their hands, hence their name. Afterwards, the bulls are herded back to their pen by gardiens (Camarguais cowboys) in a bandido, amidst a great deal of ceremony. The star of these spectacles are the bulls, who get top billing and stand to gain fame and statues in their honor, and lucrative product endorsement contracts!

For more info on the Feria see www.arenes-arles.com

Arles is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its ancient Roman and medieval history: “It has some impressive Roman monuments, of which the earliest – the arena, the Roman theatre and the cryptoporticus (subterranean galleries) – date back to the 1st century B.C. During the 4th century Arles experienced a second golden age, as attested by the baths of Constantine and the necropolis of Alyscamps. In the 11th and12th centuries, Arles once again became one of the most attractive cities in the Mediterranean. Within the city walls, Saint-Trophime, with its cloister, is one of Provence’s major Romanesque monuments.”

Arles also has strong connections to Vincent Van Gogh who spent 15 months of his most productibe period in the town; also nearby is the Camargue, a largely unspoilt regional natural park lying between 2 arms of the Rhone delta. To the east are the charms of Les Baux de Provence, St Remy-de-Provence and the wines of Les Baux de Provence AC – where I would recommend a visit to Mas Ste Berthe to try (and buy) some of their wines and/or olive oil and to takes a walk around the signpost route around the vineyard.

For more info on Arles and the surrounding area see www.tourisme.ville-arles.fr
Arles is twinned with WISBECH in Cambridgeshire – although I doubt you will find much bull-running there! – although it is known as the Capital of the Fens which could be considered as comparable to the Camargue – flat, marshy and a haven for wild life.

Find best hotel rates in Arles

Those who thought black pudding was a purely Scottish affair need think again, as the international contest to find the best black pudding takes place next March in the historic French village of Mortagne-au-Perche in the Orne area of Normandy.
The 46th annual black pudding festival will celebrate the culinary traditions of the region, with local cook-offs, celebrity chefs as well as a host of gastronomic stalls and exhibits open to the public.
The main part of the festival is the black pudding competition which sees over 650 competitors from across Europe but there are also two fiercely fought culinary competitions open to professional and amateur chefs who reside in the Orne. They are charged with creating and cooking the best dish – fish-based for the professionals, and a desert for the amateurs – using local produce such as apples, calvados, cider, pommeau, cream, butter and cheese to create their dish.

Specialist butchers and delicatessens will be demonstrating the art of making a black pudding, and visitors may sample and be their own judge of the best recipe.

For more info see www.normandy-ornetourism.com

Where to stay (B&B) in Normandy?

So bringing these two classic regional delights together should make for a great combination:

….. our first exclusive 2010 event in Château de Haute-Serre: “Truffle & Malbec Tuesdays” from January 12th to March 2nd in the restaurant La Table de Haute-Serre, with a special menu made of truffles. A perfect pairing between food and our wines has been set up by our 1 Michelin Star chef Philippe Combet. You can extend your stay in the land of the ‘black diamond’ with a visit to Lalbenque where the traditional truffle market starts every Tuesday in winter at 2 p.m. in the main street.

For more info see www.hauteserre.fr

In 2009 the Confrerie celebrates on Saturday 28 November with a parade of goats through the village and a banquet based on goat meat! The village  lies in a very rural part of France between Clermont Ferrand (50 miles)  and Limoges  (60 miles).

For more info see www.tourisme-creuse.com

…the established showcase of the Minervois, is preparing its annual fortnight-long festival of the senses –
art, culture and fabulous food – all designed to introduce you to the delights of the region.
An astonishing range of activities, from the creative arts, food and wine tastings, evenings of music ranging from jazz to the classics, strolls through the vineyards, cinema , theatre paying tribute to PierrePaul Riquet with Guy Vassal’s play “The Madman of the Canal”, a cabaret evening dining to the poetry of Charles Trenet….You can choose to follow an exciting and varied programme of events; alternatively you are welcome to organise your own tour around the region where a profusion of historic sites, workshops and exhibitions await you.

The programme includes a wide range of open-days at winemakers throughout the region including Minervois AOC, St Jean-de-Minervois and Minervois-la-Lavinière which include some great Languedoc reds, whites and dessert wines.

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

Get the best rates for other hotels in Lille

Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

The Fourme de Montbrison has only a small number of mould veins throughout and has a reddish rind. Its flavour is very mild with light nut and mushroom flavours.

On the weekend of 2-3-4 October 2009 the town of Montbrison celebrates its “Journées de la Fourme”

To accompany this mild cheese the local Cotes du Forez AOC wine which is made from Gamay would make a good choice – and this is also likely to be available to taste on the “Cheese Days”

For more info on Le Forez see www.foreztourisme.fr/

For more info on the cheese see www.fourme-montbrison.com

For more info on the Cotes dy Forez AOC wine see http://cotesduforez.fr

le lac d'Allier

Some placenames conjur up an image automatically – e.g. the Somme and World War One and Vichy, the ignominious seat of a disgraceful regime during the occupation of France by Hitler.

Yet get behind those images – and the Somme is a delightful landscape of rolling hills, sandy beaches and a haven for wildlife!

Similarly Vichy (03 Allier, Auvergne) is a pleasant and elegant spa town. It was apparently chosen by Marechal Petain as the seat of government because it had plenty of hotels which could be taken over for ministerial offices and accommodation for the bureaucrats.

It seems remarkably isolated compared to other cities in the so-called “free zone” – such as Lyon or Clermont Ferrand. And that situation, being off the major routes, makes it peaceful and relaxing.

The town possesses many fine hotels – and the Hotel de Ville – of the late 19^th Century – but nowadays there are plenty of modern buildings to house tourists or those who come for the beneficial effects of the Spa – Thermes – and the waterfront alongside the river/lake (the Allier)  offer more energetic pursuits.

To reach Vichy from the north take the A77 autoroute to Nevers and Moulins and beyond.

There is a train service direct from Paris Gare de Lyon – you can book tickets from London and the UK with RailEurope

Hotel de Ville, Vichy

Find the best rates for Hotels in Vichy
The locals are called Vichyssoises – also the name given to a classic cold leek and potato soup – so-named by the creative chef who lived near Vichy. Also known for Vicy Water – an effervescent mineral water which has been bottled in the region for many years.

The Segala is a rural area comprising part of the south Aveyron and northern Tarn departments.

The Segala is an old provencal region also known as the Land of the 100 Valleys. The area is a little known gem often by-passed by sun worshipers on the way to the Mediterranean.  Indeed the Aveyron boasts no less than 9 Plus Beaux Villages de France more than any other department. Among these is the bastide town of Sauverterre de Rouergue which has retained much of its medieval charm and throughout the summer many

medieval festivals are held here including the Fete de Bougie (8-9 August 2009)  and culminating with the chestnut and cider festival in October – Fete de la Chataigne (24-25 October 2009)
To the south of this region is Albi which is an absolute gem with its medieval streets and stunningly colossal 500 year old brick built cathedral. It is also the birth place of the artist Toulouse Lautrec and there is a fine museum of his work next to the cathedral : Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The region has to be one of the best undiscovered areas of France – stunning landscapes and few people!

Where to stay – Le Clot B&B- Owned and run by an English couple, Colin and Stephanie Evans, there are 3 double rooms for guests and all have private facilities. All rooms have been recently renovated keeping much of the character of the original buildings. Table d’hotes offered on request and using many ingredients from the garden or source them locally. Situated between Rodez and Albi.

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Papillon Restaurant 1, bis Rue Toulouse Lautrec, 8100 Albi. Tel 05 63 43 10 77. The restaurant specialises in American-Asian fusion and vegetarian cuisine – it is also excellent value for money.

Where to eat (gourmet):

Le Senechal in Sauverterre de Rouergue is an elegant Michelin starred restaurent. run by Michel Truchon – Tel. 05 65 71 20 00

Local food:

The Segala is noted for its ‘rosé’ veal from the many herds of limousin cattle -the Veau d’Aveyron et du Segala is renowned throughout France for its quality.

The other local delicacy is Tripoux a stew of veal tripe which is served for breakfast and special celebrations!!

Local wine:

This area is situated between the wine regions of Gaillac and Marcillac which both have AOC status. Gaillac AC wines are widely available in the UK and produce red, rose and white wines, the whites ranging from dry to rich dessert wines. Sparkling wines are also made here – look out for the Gaillac Perle AC – a very lightly sparkling wine made from the local L’En de l’El grape. (Gaillac Wine Fair in early August (8-9 August 2009)

Marcillac wines are seldom seen outside the local area.

Local markets: For authentic ‘French markets then Carmaux on Friday mornings and Villefranche de Rouergue on Thursday mornings are the best. For night markets where cooked food can be purchased from the producers and eaten on the spot – Sauverterre de Rouergue on Friday nights in July and August

Must see: The world famous Viaduc de Millau bridge that crosses the Tarn gorge designed by Sir Norman Foster is only an hour by car. Much closer is the Viaduc du Viaur – an impressive iron railway bridge which must have been as impressive to the visitors of the 1910s as the Millau viaduct is today!.

In Albi there is the Cathedral Saint Cécile and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum.

A bit of culture: Each year there is week long guitar festival in Albi (7-10 July 2010) and each August there is a festival of Ocitan music and poetry in Rodez

Shopping: Both Albi and Rodez have a good selection of retail outlets and nypermarkets – otherwise the small villages offer essentials and some interesting craft shops.

For a walk: The region has many marked ‘Randonee’ routes along river valleys and through wooded hills. The local tourism office offers a detailed itineraries and maps of walking trails.

For the children: Head for Cap Decouverte – a converted open cast mine now dedicated as a leisure site. It has water skiing, zip line, open air pool, beach, down hill cart track, dry ski slope, Between Rodez and Millau is Micropolis where the small world of insects can be explored. Or a litle further afield try the Velorail and Train Touristique de Larzac

Getting there: Fly to Rodez from Stansted and Dublin with Ryanair – or to Toulouse from numerous UK airports including Birmingham,

By car: Take the autoroute to Clermont Ferrand (A71) and then the A75 south to St Flour – taking the road to Albi

By train: not on the main TGV routes, but you can travel direct from Paris Austerlitz and book your tickets from the UK at RailEurope

Getting around: A car is essential – drive down or hire from the airport or railway station.

Some of these recommendations kindly supplied by Colin & Stephanie Evans who offer B&B (Chambres d’Hote) at le Clot

Saumur  (49 Maine et Loire, Pays de Loire)

Where to stay

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Bellevue (above) also offers Tables d’Hote (“host’s table, fixed price menu – booked in advance) – their “Découverte du Terroir’ is something you won’t find in a restaurant.  Carefully selected by Gérald the large plateau of local delicacies and handed down recipes from Grandma ensure a true French supper.  Accompanied by a complimentary bottle of AOC Saumur wine, dine leisurely in the peaceful grounds of ‘the Domaine.

Where to eat (gourmet):

l’Hélianthe (The Helianthos) – for good food and a fabulous setting,  a  “restaurant troglodytique” (set in troglodyte caves).  Highly recommended.

Place Antoine Cristal, Turquant - about 10km south-east of Saumur along the river valley.
T: 02.41.51.22.28

La Licorne – a Michelin starred restaurant serving modern French cuisine  in the historical town of Fontrevraud l’Abbaye (abput 15km southeast of Saumur)

Restaurant la Licorne, Allée Sainet Catherine, Fontrevaud l’Abbaye
T:02.41.51.72.49

Where to eat (value for money):

For a picnic or snack between sight-seeing visits step into any boulangerie for a sandwich, quiche or slice of pizza followed by a mouth watering pastry.

Local food:

The specialty of the Saumur region are les Fouées, hollow unleavened breads filled with rillettes and confit de canard, served hot and accompanied by another specialty, large grilled mushrooms dripping with garlic & parsley butter – yummy !!

Local wine:

Saumur has its own appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC Saumur) and produces a wide variety of wines including sparkling, white, rosé and red.  For those interested in learning more about wine the Beaumonts (above)  offer private wine tours & wine tastings and vineyard visits.

Market:

Saumur hosts a fabulous Saturday morning market full of fresh produce, livestock! and stalls with plenty of goodies you’ll want to take home with you.

Must See:

Château de Saumur – dominates the town of Saumur at the edge of the Loire river
Cadre Noir at the National Equestrian School of the elite French Cavalry
Visit a Loire Valley vineyard
A Loire Valley wine tour & wine tasting

When to come :

Saumur’s Wine Festival “La Marché des Vins de Saumur” which takes place the first weekend in September (4-6 September 2009)

Getting around:

Why not try cycling – the well-established Loire à Velo scheme  which offers cycling along the gentle banks of the Loire  with well-signposted cycle paths and itineraries.

There are also plenty of well-marked footpaths in the area – along the river and away from it – see www.saumur-rando.com (in French)

Local Tourist Office -

and remember this section of the Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site – The Loire Valley is noteworthy for the quality of its architectural heritage, in its historic towns such as Blois, Chinon, Orléans, Saumur, and Tours, but in particular in its world-famous castles, such as the Château de Chambord.

Thanks to Sarah-Jane Beaumont at Le Bellevue for some of these recommendations

“L’Oignon Rose de Roscoff” is now protected as an Appellation Controllée (AOC from 2009) due to its specific character (delicate skin, long life, intense flavour and good size – and only grown in and around Roscoff). If you are deeply interested in the history of this vegetable and its connection to the UK , visit the La maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff – the Onions Johnnies museum in Roscoff.  Festivities include an onion market, music , torchlit parade  and a  bicycle race!  Food based on the oignon feature of course – onion tarts, onion bread and onion soup – together with a dispay of impressive onion strings!!

Beyond Onions and Johnnies, I still consider Roscoff one of the pleasantest ports of arrival/departure in France – close to the town and retaining most of its medieval and maritime character it is a delightful place to spend an hour or so (or longer).

For more info on Roscoff and its Onion Festival see www.roscoff-tourisme.com

Brittany Ferries run services from Plymouth and Cork.
Find the best rates for Hotels in Roscoff

Lavender is celebrated in Valréas during the first weekend in the month of August. Saturday evening and Monday evening, there is a parade of richly decorated floats, on different themes each year. A lively parade full of fun for the crowds who come to take part in the celebration. Folk dance and music groups, marching bands majorettes lead the way. This year’s theme: countries and their traditions.

This part of Provence sums up the essence of southern France with its wealth of luscious produce – fruits, wine, lavender, truffles – as part of an area known as l’Enclave des Papes (The Popes Enclave)

The Enclave des Papes is happy to offer to its inhabitants and visitors some delicious flavours and pleasant aromas :the Côtes du Rhône wine, the Black Diamond “the truffle”, and the bluish fields of lavender in June…
So many products stemming from our soil gathered on our weekly Provençal markets!

For more info on Vareas and Provence Lavender

Of course Lavender is also grown in the UK as far north as Yorkshire – for example at Wolds Way Lavender near Malton, North Yorkshire – and there have been days this year when NorthYorkshire has been warmer than Provence.

With music, dancing, processions of donkeys, ponies and horsement, and plenty of opportunities to try Melon in its many guises (jams, sauces, liqueurs etc)  and buy from the Melon market, The Cavaillon melon tends to be smaller but more flavoursome than say, a honeydew melon.

Cavaillon is also well-situated for visiting Avignon, St Remy de Provence and the Luberon area – some of the best of Provence.

More info on Cavaillon and its region.
Find the best rates for Hotels in Cavaillon

This is welcome as a good meal out in France can be a real treat – and often very much better value than most UK eateries.

However, beware that VAT is not reduced on wine, which remains at 19.6% – higher than the UK (currently 15%) but without the UK’s punitive excise duty rates.

Of many favourite restaurants in France, there is one in the Lot département which remains a cherished memory for me – Le Gindreau at St Medard-Catus (46, Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) – a glorious meal of local specialities, good wine, excellent service and a table on the terrace with views over the quiet local countryside – and 3 hours for lunch!

Within easy travelling distance of Cahors and with an impressive list of Cahors and other wines.

Rick Stein visited the Cassoulet Festival as part of his French Odyssey

For more info see www.couleur-lauragais.fr/

Situated within easy walking distance of the Eiffel Tower and the fabulous market in Rue Cler this area is always the highlight of a Paris visit.
Recommended Reading: Markets of Paris also: The Authentic Bistros of Paris

However, now I hear that during his recent short visit to France, President Obama chose the Fontaine de Mars as the venue for supper. Will it ever be the same again? Will prices now be hiked? Will the clientele be dominated by Americans??Will the menu retain its authenticity?

Restaurant la Fontaine de Mars
129, Rue Saint-Dominique 75007 PARIS  T: 01 47 05 46 44

Paris Tourist Office

See map

Why Eastern Burgundy? An opportunity to get the best of both worlds – within easy distance of the classic treasures of Burgundy and the famous Burgundy vineyards whilst also exploring some of the lesser-known delights of the region which most visitors by-pass on the way south.
This is a wonderful area. Burgundy is rightly world famous for its wines and countryside but try the Jura. Most people have only heard of it through Jurassic era rocks & Jurassic Park films. John & Carolyn Scallan fell in love with it. Join them, you won’t regret it.

Where to stay: Le Bourg B&B in Sens-sur-Seille (71 Saone-et-Loire) is is run by John & Carolyn Scallan who are English but happy to live in France, – a good job as they’ve been here for 6 years now.
4 bedrooms, all en-suite, and each with their own individual design welcome you. Two doubles, one twin and a family room for up to four. Evening meals can be arranged using as much as possible from theirur own garden.! Breakfasts with home made jams and PROPER marmalade, served on the terrace when fine.

Nearest Town: Chalons-sur-Saone (40km); Arlay (16km), Louhans (18km)

Where to eat? If not at the B&B, then the Hotel St Germain in nearby St.Germain du Bois (6 kms). Good French restaurant, very popular with the locals and ex-pat Swiss who always know good value when it is around. Salads and good main courses. The 24 Euro menu is always great. It MAY JUST be possible  to give you a lift and pick you up later to help you “enjoy” the meal.

Where to eat (gourmet):
Les Trois Colombes just 300 metres from us. Run by two Swiss ladies this is a real treat. High quality food in calm and beautiful surrondings. The menu featuring “les trois filets” is superb.

Where to eat (value for money):
La Siesta Pizzeria in Bletterans (10 kms) Good value, great atmosphere and an all round enjoyable time. Proper size chips as well, not the thin “allumettes”. The Chicken Liver salad as a starter sets the tone. They do takeaways as well and, the height of nouvelle technologie they’ve got a “Pizzamatic”! A genuine Hole in the wall Pizza machine! Credit card in, choose your pizza (or two etc) and wait. Three minutes later the first will arrive and so on piping hot and in it’s own box – the wonders of technology!

Local food:
This region of France is called the Bresse and is famed for it’s poultry. Poulet de Bresse in Vin Jaune with Morilles is the region’s signature dish. Featuring the chicken (specially reared, free range chickens) and a sauce made of local mushrooms and the stunning powerhouse wine of nearby (4 kms) Jura.

Local wine:
Obviously Burgundy. Beaune is 40 kms away and could lead you into serious trouble with your bank manager but it would be worth it. For a more affordable Burgundy try the Hautes Cotes du Nuits and Hautes Cotes du Beaune or the Cote Chalonnaise. The owners have contacts in all. For something different; head eastwards into the Jura and try their wines. The Vin Jaune (see above) is one of a range of amazing and highly individual wines from this smallest of wine regions. The owners of the B&B have contacts with several winemakers and can easily arrange tastings. The local Cremant (champagne but not allowed to call it that) from friends the Chevassus is stunning. Try it.

Local markets:
St Germain du Bois (6 kms) on Saturday Morning (0900 – 1200) is a traditional morning market. Fruit & veg stalls, clothes, cheese (the B&B gets its cheese from here) butchery etc etc. The rotisserie chicken lady does a mean chicken with onions, tomatoes & gravy and a loaf of bread from either of the bakeries in the town with perhaps something naughty for pudd………..
Chalon sur Saone on Sunday morning. Mainly food market in the St. Vincent square. The cathedral dominates the sqaure and the market bustles along throughout the morning. Take a stroll through the old town, have a drink and watch the world go by.
On Monday morning, Louhans has the largest market in the area, taking up the whole of the town centre, with food, clothing and household goods and livestock too.

Must see:
The Hotel Dieu in Beaune is spectacular, open all year from 9am to 6pm (closes for lunch only in mid-winter).
The Chateau d’Arlay is open during June to September for visitors or all year long for it’s wine.
The Burgundy winerouteTouristique des Grands Crus) is like driving through all the most famous names on a wine list!
(Route The Jura countryside whose stunning scenery, including lakes, rivers, waterfalls, caves, vineyards, abbeys and castles.

The Jura Wine Route (route des vins de Jura) – “stretching over the 80 kilometres of sunny slopes called “the Revermont”, you will find an area rich in character that will reveal to you all it’s treasures. Exceptional wines, beautiful countryside, enchanting villages, gastronomy of the highest order and many other activities which promise all manner of good things.”

The hilltop village of Chateau Chalon.

For something very different, how about lunch, a bit of culture, shopping and something for the kids all in one place? Sounds good? It’s at the local motorway service station!! No kidding! Just ask for details!

A bit of culture?
Chateau de Pierre de Bresse has a local museum and lots to do for a morning or afternoon.
The photography museum in Chalon sur Saone is worth seeing for some of it’s temporary exhibitions.
The Hospice de Beaune (see above) is really well worth visiting
La Maison de la Haute Seille is a new museum of the region aound Chateau Chalon with lots to do (open Sat & Sun from 9 to 12 and 2 to 6) . They are slowly getting the English translation sorted out for all of the panels and, hopefully, the audio side of things.
The abbey at Baume Les Messieurs….. we could go on and on!

Somewhere for a walk?
Loads of quiet roads, paths, and marked routes. There are details of some in the Jura and a lot of local maps at the B&B

Something for the kids?
Lac Chalain about 30 kms. Beaches, entertainment and the like.
The Aurochs farm (www.ferme-auroch.com) ,(auroch= an ancient breed of cattle) near the Cascades des Herisson about 40 kms. Rare breed cattle, bison, Aurochs and, somewhat bizzarely, Dalmations.
Visit a snail farm. Bet you didn’t expect that! July & Aug are best for this, it can be arranged by the B&B
Or how about a river cruise on the Saone, with commentary by the English speaking captain and co-owner

Getting there?
Car is best. (more room to take the wine home.) The B&B is about 410 miles south of the Channel ports. From Calais etc, head for Reims, then Troyes, Dijon. Take A36 to the A39 and come off at junction 8. Remember a map or the GPS co-ordinates above. Otherwise, Sens-sur-Seille is between an hour and a half and two hours from both Lyon and Geneva airports, with low-cost flights from all over the UK

Getting around:
A car, frankly, is essential here. There are bikes available for hire so that the fitter amongst you can get a healthy buzz. If you let the B&B know the day before they can arrange a picnic lunch and recommend routes which are quiet and relatively flat to amble along. Should you be of a more Tour de France disposition there are longer routes of over 100 kms as well!

When to come?:
June through to September is best with the Montgolfiades Hot air Balloon festival in early June
Chalon dans la Rue festival of street theatre in July
Jazz festivals; Water festivals and a whole range of other festivals taking place over the summer months.
Late september is usually harvest time and the vineyards are alive with people picking grapes.
October things start to quieten down a bit. In November there is the release of the Beaujolais Nouveau in Beaujeu (about 75 mins away). Great fun and the wines is usually very good. The weekend after that is the Beaune wine festival where the great and the good get together to sort out the price of this years vintage Burgundies. The first weekend in February is the big wine festival in the Jura where about 80 winemakers gather together and celebrate the new vintage Vin Jaune (it’s had 6 years maturing in its barrels and is adjudged ready). Lots of other smaller festivals dotted around the year

For a longer stay?:
Louhans (about 10 miles away) has a market on Mondays all through the year. In summer it totally dominates the town. All the usual items plus hardware, fashion and livestock. Get there fairly early to get a good parking spot!
Go wine-tasting at a local producer (or two). John & Carolyn have lots of contacts in the business and can set these up and sometimes accompany you. Visit the Jura wines website www.laroutedesvinsdujura.com for information on lots of small events in the region.
There’s a tasting evening every Tuesday in season in nearby Lavigny that’s great fun but best if your French is fairly reasonable.

For more info on Le Bourg B&B see  Le Bourg B&B or use the enquiry form below.

For more info on the local area see the local tourist office websites at Tourisme Jura or Tourisme Saone-et-Loire

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Map showing the location of Sens-sur-Seille

Cahors AOC wines are made predominantly from the Malbec grape (locally known as Auxerrois) and although the wine has in the past tended to be a bit tough and tannic, modern techniques and approaches now produce much fruitier and more accessible styles. This would be a great opportunity to try some of these wines in a festive atmosphere – and white and rose wines (vins de pays) are also available from some producers.

One local producer known to us is Chateau Eugenie just east of the village where the Couture family produce a wide range of excellent Cahors wines, demonstrating the differences in the local terroir from the river valley to the top of the Causse (moorland)

See our archives about Cahors wines at www,frenchduck.co.uk

For more info see www.feteduvin-cahors.fr/

Why Entraygues-sur-Truyere? Entraygues-sur-Truyere is a picturesque riverside village, where two rivers meet, the Lot River and the Truyere.  Entraygues was founded in the 10th century and its fortified castle was built between 1278-1290.  Entraygues is located in an area with 10 of the, “The Most Beautiful Villages in France,” more than any othe region! (and rightly so! (Ed))

Sweet French Cottages

Where to stay: Sweet French Cottages,enchanting stone cottages for rent in the Lot Valley Southwest France

Nearest Town: Entraygues-sur-Truyere, 12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees

Where to eat (recommended by Raine Heron of Sweet French Cottages): Le Mejanessere, a beautiful rustic restaurant with stunning views. Also a vineyard and an organic farm.  Food is farm fresh and set menus often feature roasted pig, sausage in walnut oil, potatoes with wild mushrooms, green salad with edible flowers and herbs and dessert.  Delicious bread baked on premises.  Wonderful apéritif menu and local wines from vineyard.  Mostly open during high season (some mid season hours).

Where to eat (gourmet): Auberge du Fel.  Delicious, fresh, often regional food beautifully presented.  The Executive Chef, Mme Elisabeth Albespy, is the Mayor’s wife and the Sous Chef is their son, Mathieu.  The Mayor is often on hand to serve up their traditional as well as inventive dishes, including a vegetarian prix fixe menu.

Where to eat (value for money): La Casa.  Oven-fired thin crust pizza, pasta dishes and fresh salads.  Make your own pizza (our favourite is goat cheese, chestnuts and fresh tomatoes) or try the duck and Roquefort pizza, among many others on the menu.  Good table wine and tasty desserts.

Local food: Aubrac beef, duck, lamb, trout, foie gras, charcuterie, aligot (whipped potatoes with cheese), truffade, cabecou, fouace, honey, walnut oil, fresh chestnuts as well as chestnut vinegar, flour and chestnut butter, farcous, wild mushrooms

Local wine: Entraygues– Le Fel wine, which has recently had a come uppance when one of our Entraygues wines made it s way onto the menu at Michel Bras, a regional restaurant which ranks one of the top ten restaurants in the world.  There are also several local aperitifs including “Pelou,” consisting of chestnut liqueur and local white wine and “Rascalou,” consisting of walnut liqueur and local white wine.  Both are wonderful.

Local markets: Farmer’s Markets are held every Friday morning throughout the year.  In high season, there are two Farmer’s Markets, on both Tuesday and Friday mornings, and a local producer’s market (Marche des Producteurs de Pays) on Wednesday evenings with banquet style dining and live music.  All of the markets are held in the village square or along the river in Entraygues.

Must see: Poterie du Don, a museum-quality contemporary ceramic center in an architecturally-significant building.  Ceramics include traditional salt glaze tableware and ceramic creations by the gallery owner, Suzy Atkins, to ceramic sculpture and flatworks by many well-known European ceramic artists.

A bit of culture?: Since the  area is unspoiled and rather timeless, you definitely feel immersed in the French culture on a daily basis, particularly if you frequent the butcher, the baker, Farmer’s Market and mill around the villages.  With regard to museums, one that stands out is the Musee Fenaille in Rodez with the oldest and largest collection of statues-menhirs in France (think small, carved Stone Henge).

Shopping?: There are charming shops in Entraygues, as well as many lovely shops and cafes on pedestrian-only streets in the old town section of nearby Aurillac.

Somewhere for a walk? – There are 10 “Petites Randonrres” (small walking paths) in Entraygues totaling more than 100 km.  There are also longer walks, some taking 2-3 days, and more than 250 km of trails in the area.  There is also a 30-45 minute historic walk through the medieval streets of Entraygues, guided by sign posts.

Something for the kids? – There is kayaing, canoeing, river rafting and horseback riding in Entraygues, as well as several animal parks and farms open to the public in surrounding areas.  Also, the Micropolis (insect) museum and the Millau Viaduc (the highest bridge in the world) is not far from us.

Getting there?:– Driving across France is always a scenic pleasure.  By air, our nearest airport is Rodez-Marcillac Airport (only a short 1-hour flight from Paris) Ryanair fly from Stansted to Rodez.

Other airports in the area include Toulouse International Airport, Montpellier Airport and Limoges Airport.  Trains arrive at either Aurillac or Rodez stations

Getting around:– Buses and taxis are availabie in town, and the area is frequented by cyclists (including the Tour de France!).  There are train stations in both Aurillac and Rodez – and tickets direct from the UK can be booked through Rail Europe

When to come?:– There are festivals every weekend in mid and high seasons in Entraygues or nearby villages.  The better known festivals, however, are “Les Mediaevales” (Medieval Days) on 12 and 13 Sepetember 2009 featuring jugglers, musicians, medieval costumes, banquet-style lunch, wine, beer and several artisan booths. “Fete des Champignons” (Mushroom Festival) is held the last weekend in September and features folkloric museum, dancing, costumes, lunch and everything mushroom.  “Foire de la Chataigne” (Chestnut Fair) will be held on 24 and 25 October 2009 and is large festival with music, food, wine and everything chestnut.

For a longer stay?:– Take a day trip (and perhaps, stay one night) in Cahors or Gaillac or Cordes sur Ciel, or just take cat naps, go for walks down to the river or next to the local vineyards, through the historic villages, or just sit on the terrace while reading a good book and sipping wine, taking in the fresh air, views and sound of the flowing river.

Recommendations kindly supplied by Rain Heron at Sweet French Cottages

For more info on the local area see the local tourist office website

Le Weekend in…Eauze

Where to stay? Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet. Domaine de Lauroux, situated 2km from the town of Manciet.where Karen and Richard Kitchener run a wine and Armagnac domaine in the Cotes de Gascogne. Manciet is close to the charming market town of Eauze. Lauroux is a 100 acre award-winning vineyard offering self catering and B&B accommodation together with evening meals

For more info see www.tourisme-gers.com For more info on the accommodation see http://frenchduck.com/latest/archives/2008/04/bb-or-gite-in-the-gers.html

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A fruitful alliance between village and parsleyed Ham – discover the village and take a gastronomic tour in its streets. There will also be crafts,entertainment and snacks with regional dishes and rapid restauration

Bouzeron AC is in the Cotes Challonais in southern Burgundy, but unlike most of its neighbours is focussed on producing white wines based on the Aligoté grape.

See www.burgundy-wines.fr
What’s more it can come from one of my favourite Burgundy negociants at Faiveley

Where to stay, where to eat, what to do, how to get there…….

Recommendations kindly offered by Phil & Jude Graham at la Basse Cour.

More recently of course there has been Dr Roger Corder’s The Wine Diet, which claims that certain red wines such as Madiran with its Tannat grape have a positive contribution to health and might explain the so-called “French Paradox” whereby the French, despite having a diet high in saturated fats nevertheless have a low incidence of coronary heart disease.

Health and diet guru Michel Montignac recommends cooking with goose fat rather than butter. It is probably significant that both the wine and food of South West France play such a key role in a healthy diet!

And now French wine and food specialists Devigne Wines and Confit Direct are praising the health benefits of the key staple foods of SW France.

In view of the latest scare story from the food police regarding Saturated Fats, did you know that whilst Beef, Mutton and Pork Fat are up to 50% Saturated Fat, Duck Fat is only 33% Saturated Fat and Goose even better at 28%?

In addition Duck and Goose fat contain an antimicrobial ingredient known as palmitoleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid. Palmitoleic acid fights microbes in your intestines.

Foie gras, duck confit and goose/duck fat are almost health foods!!
Or perhaps that’s going a bit far!

For more info see www.confitdirect.co.uk/

Passion for food and drink – February 14th 10am – 4pm

We’ll have a selection of our products on sale and will be offering samples of the Clos de la Fonatine Hugo Cider and for those of you will have forgotten about the romantic occasion, we will have some Rosé Champagne sale to save your bacon.
The Hawarden Estate Farm Shop is in Hawarden, North East Wales, not too far from Chester.

On their website they are also running a competition to win a French Flavour bag (see above) by answering a question based on an article about Champagne on their website.

For more info see www.frenchflavour.co.uk/

For more info on the Hawarden Estate Farm Shop see http://www.hawardenestate.co.uk/

Capital of the Picardy region, Amiens will surprise you with its mix of audacity, art and history! Notre-Dame d’Amiens, the Gothic Cathedral, is listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage and will amaze the visitors with its polychronic portals. Other treasures to discover are the first French Museum built to house the exhibition of Fine Arts, the first European skycraper designed by Perret and one of the first French belfries. Visitors can also enjoy a stroll down Amiens’s canal and waterborne markets before indulging in macaroons, ficelle picarde (savoury pancake) and gateau battu (sugared brioche).Do not wait any longer to discover the relaxing, medieval and pioneering Amiens!

“Amiens Cathedral in colour” takes place from 15 June to 19 September 2009:

The magical effect of coloured lighting on the façade of the cathedral provides visitors with an original view of medieval architecture.

For more info see www.visit-amiens.com/

In April 2008, 22 students from the Photographic department were welcomed each in one of the 22 participating cities. The participants ranged in age between 20 and 35 years old, as well as originating from 15 different countries. Each student was given an “emotional passport” to express their own talent and sense and to capture the daily life of France. Their only requirement: let the dreams and emotions of the people and places be the guide!

The venues include Aix-en-Provence, Amiens, Angers, Avignon, Bordeaux, Dijon, Grenoble, Le Havre, Lille, Marseille, Metz, Montpellier, Mulhouse, Nancy, Nantes, Nice, Nimes, Reims. Rennes, Rouen, Toulouse and Versailles.

For more info see www.franceemotion.com/

Amongst the gallic delights on offer on their website they include smoked and unsmoked garlic, Corsican Jams, Snails, Olive Oils and Tapenades as well as an interesting selection of ciders, wines and Champagne from France. The website is interesting with a recipe selection and an interesting article on the Tarte Tropezienne – a dessert tart from St Tropez, which Kimberley Lovato describes as
looking like a “custard hamburger”!

The France Show promises to be an exciting event for Francophiles – and for some of us may be the nearest we get to France this year, unless the exchange rate improves! And as well as visiting French Flavour on Stand L104 , you can also enjoy:=

• Live cookery demonstrations by top chefs including Jean-Christophe Novelli
• The UK’s largest exhibition of French property
• Live music, dancing and entertainment
• Property buying seminars
• Holiday ideas and travel seminars
• Language product demonstrations and seminars
• Art, Shopping, Can Can dancers, Showgirls and so much more…

An you can still book for just £10 per person – see www.thefranceshow.com/

Moonlit parades, Citrus Exhibition, Gardens of Light and a Sunday Parade of Golden Fruit all offer plenty to see and do in mid-winter.

For more info see www.feteducitron.com

Montélimar, the capital of nougat and gateway to Provence, celebrates Christmas with a Christmas village and market in the St Martin quarter – with tourist train, christmas lights, christmas carols – and stalls to entice you with tastings of soup,  tartiflette (a warming alpine dish of cheese, potatoes and bacon), French toasts or eggy bread (pains perdus), oysters, local wines from the Coteaux du Tricastin, roast chestnuts, mulled wine and, of course,nougat…

For more info see www.montelimar-tourisme.com/

A group of the town’s VIPs parade the turkeys through the town and there is the opportunity to purchase various foodstuffs, regional produce, beautifully packaged sweets and chocolates, traditional decorations and local crafts.

Licques is also home to a special liqueur, the Licquoise, which is offered to visitors before the turkey procession. The birds are herded through the town on the Sunday morning, preceded by the Confrerie de Licques (local bigwigs and celebrities).

Throughout the weekend, there is also a regional food market (Marché du Terroir) and a dinner-dance.

For more info see www.licques-volailles.fr