Many visitors may feel squeamish or even disapproving about the spectacle of bull-fighting, but it is a long-maintained tradition in Provence and southern France, especially in the Camargue.  You can however still enjoy the spectacle (and avoid the risk of any gore)by seeing the noisy and colourful parades and bull-running through the town. My view is that if you really object to this form of “entertainment” then avoid the area.

The bull-fighting (corrida) takes place in the spectacular Roman Arena in Arles, and there are other options such as the  Course Camargaise, which is another local form of bullfighting without the drawing of any blood.

About course camarguaise:  It is a summer pastime practiced in many small towns around Arles and the area. There are local leagues which are reported in local newspapers..
This different kind of bullfighting is known alternately as “course libre” or “course camarguaise“. This is a bloodless spectacle (for the bulls) in which the objective is to snatch a rosette from the head of a young bull.

The participants, or raseteurs, begin training in their early teens against young bulls from the Camargue region before graduating to regular contests held principally in Arles and Nîmes but also in other Provençal and Languedoc towns and villages.
Before the course, anencierro — a “running” of the bulls in the streets — takes place, in which young men compete to outrun the charging bulls. The course itself takes place in a small (often portable) arena erected in a town square.
For a period of about 15–20 minutes, the raseteurs compete to snatch rosettes (cocarde) tied between the bulls’ horns. They don’t take the rosette with their bare hands but with a claw-shaped metal instrument called a raset or crochet(hook) in their hands, hence their name. Afterwards, the bulls are herded back to their pen by gardiens (Camarguais cowboys) in a bandido, amidst a great deal of ceremony. The star of these spectacles are the bulls, who get top billing and stand to gain fame and statues in their honor, and lucrative product endorsement contracts!

For more info on the Feria see www.arenes-arles.com

Arles is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its ancient Roman and medieval history: “It has some impressive Roman monuments, of which the earliest – the arena, the Roman theatre and the cryptoporticus (subterranean galleries) – date back to the 1st century B.C. During the 4th century Arles experienced a second golden age, as attested by the baths of Constantine and the necropolis of Alyscamps. In the 11th and12th centuries, Arles once again became one of the most attractive cities in the Mediterranean. Within the city walls, Saint-Trophime, with its cloister, is one of Provence’s major Romanesque monuments.”

Arles also has strong connections to Vincent Van Gogh who spent 15 months of his most productibe period in the town; also nearby is the Camargue, a largely unspoilt regional natural park lying between 2 arms of the Rhone delta. To the east are the charms of Les Baux de Provence, St Remy-de-Provence and the wines of Les Baux de Provence AC – where I would recommend a visit to Mas Ste Berthe to try (and buy) some of their wines and/or olive oil and to takes a walk around the signpost route around the vineyard.

For more info on Arles and the surrounding area see www.tourisme.ville-arles.fr
Arles is twinned with WISBECH in Cambridgeshire – although I doubt you will find much bull-running there! – although it is known as the Capital of the Fens which could be considered as comparable to the Camargue – flat, marshy and a haven for wild life.

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Amongst the bands appearing are the UK’s BBC Big Band, the French Band of the Republican Guard and a quintet of trumpets “Les Trompettes de Lyon“. There are also fringe events so the otherwise quiet town will be full of rich sound.

For more info see www.festivalcuivre.fr

Limoux is a good base for visiting the Pyrenees, Cathar country and the spectacular fortified medieval city of Carcassonne. Local wines include the still and sparkling white wines of Limoux (visit Antech), and furthe east you enter Corbieres country.

Interesting that the French refer to Brass in this context as “cuivrée” which is more literally “coppered” – in general the term “brass” does not necessarily imply that the instrument is made from brass, but it belongs to a group of instruments where the sound is made by “lip vibration” – and of course includes the Saxaphone which is promarily made of wood. Presumably the same applies to the French use of the term “cuivrée”!

Albi is perhapes best known for its pink brick Cathedral, the Toulouse Lautrec museum and the birthplace of the Albigensian Crusades which led to the Cathar heresy and battles.

However for a week in February the town goes into Carnival mode with Carnival Queens, Parades, floats, music etc to jollify the streets of the town.

I have stayed at the Mercure Bastides Hotel in Albi is centrally situated by the River Tarn with great views of the Cathedral.

Whilst in the area you can visit the vineyards of Gaillac AC. I can recommend the Domaine de Labarthe at Castanet which produces some very good Gaillac reds, dry and sweet whites. Sparkling and Gaillac Perlé ( a lightly petillant dry white).

For more info on the Albi Carnival see www.carnaval-albi.com

For more info on Albi see www.albi-tourisme.fr

One of the most important and well-known gardens in France at Chateau de Villandry(37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) has gone organic. No more synthetic seeds, chemical fertilisers or pesticides etc – just environmentally friendly insects and techniques.

In the heart of the Loire Valley on the south bank of the Loire west of Tours, the Chateau is well worth a detour.

The 16th-17th Century chateau and its gardens host “Kitchen Garden Days” (Les Journées du Potager) every September (25-26 September 2010) and the Night of 1000 Lights  (Les Nuits des Mille Feux) when the gardens are illuminated with candles each July (2-3 July 2010), both of which offer enhanced opportunities to view the spectacular gardens.

Château de Villandry
37510 VILLANDRY

Running until 31 January 2010  the exhibition retraces the life of the sex icon who was photographed and immortalised by the greats of film and still photography at a time when she came across as young, fresh, innocent and natural – especially after the post-war years of austerity.

The exhibition is divided into three sections and leads you through her life, (1)from her early days at home, through (2) the fun and excesses of the  life of St Tropez (83 Var, Provence) and the film star years and (3) since  the 70s she has been a passionate advocate for animal right issues.

In many ways she was responsible for the fame of St Tropez, which was previously a pretty but unknown small port on the Mediterranean. Today it is a magnet for rich, wealthy celebrities which becomes impossibly busy in high season – but in Spring and Autumn it is worth a visit, with great views across to Ste Maxime.

For more info see www.boulognebillancourt.fr (in French)
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Musée des Années 30 (MA30)

28 avenue André Morizet

92100 Boulogne-Billancourt

What better way to rediscover the magic of France than by immersing yourself in the colours, the culture and the party atmosphere that is the France Show 2010 – the UK’s largest celebration of all that makes France such a special place.

The Show includes a wide variety of French themes including cookery demonstrations; Travel, Language and French property seminars; the UK’s largest French property exhibition; Top French restaurants to eat at and a French Market selling produce and fashions,

For more info see www.thefranceshow.com/

…the established showcase of the Minervois, is preparing its annual fortnight-long festival of the senses –
art, culture and fabulous food – all designed to introduce you to the delights of the region.
An astonishing range of activities, from the creative arts, food and wine tastings, evenings of music ranging from jazz to the classics, strolls through the vineyards, cinema , theatre paying tribute to PierrePaul Riquet with Guy Vassal’s play “The Madman of the Canal”, a cabaret evening dining to the poetry of Charles Trenet….You can choose to follow an exciting and varied programme of events; alternatively you are welcome to organise your own tour around the region where a profusion of historic sites, workshops and exhibitions await you.

The programme includes a wide range of open-days at winemakers throughout the region including Minervois AOC, St Jean-de-Minervois and Minervois-la-Lavinière which include some great Languedoc reds, whites and dessert wines.

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

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Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

An unmissable wine-themed rendez-vous involving encounters with winemakers, exhibitions, lectures, cultural activities and traditional local markets…

For example on Saturday 10 October there is a traditional market featuring local produce in the streets of the town centre;music; the pressing of the grape harvest by schoolchildren; taste workshops and an evening firework dispay.Festivities will end with a flourish on Sunday 11 October with tasting of the 2008 vintage, the arrival of the grape harvest by sea and traditional music and singing. – and a barbecue on the beach.

Banyuls AOC is a sweet fortified dessert wine made from older vines on the foothills of the Pyrenees close to the border with Spain. It is made mainly from the Grenache grape.

For more info on Banyuls wine see www.banyuls.com and on the wine festival

Paris plays host to Nuit Blanche with trails starting in the North of the City, with the artistic installations at the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. These works will cast new light on the Jean Jaurès Gymnasium, the Pailleron Swimming Pool and the CENTQUATRE artist hub. The courtyards located in the Marais and the Châtelet district will form the centre of the event. From Notre-Dame, a beautiful pedestrian trail will take you towards numerous places located between Luxembourg and the Quartier Latin on the left bank, normally closed to the public.

The three trails (Buttes-Chaumont, the centre of Paris and the Latin Quarter) are all connected throughout the night – e.g. metro lines 11 and 14 will run a frequent service all night – free between 2.00am and 5.30am.

For more info see www.paris.fr
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le lac d'Allier

Some placenames conjur up an image automatically – e.g. the Somme and World War One and Vichy, the ignominious seat of a disgraceful regime during the occupation of France by Hitler.

Yet get behind those images – and the Somme is a delightful landscape of rolling hills, sandy beaches and a haven for wildlife!

Similarly Vichy (03 Allier, Auvergne) is a pleasant and elegant spa town. It was apparently chosen by Marechal Petain as the seat of government because it had plenty of hotels which could be taken over for ministerial offices and accommodation for the bureaucrats.

It seems remarkably isolated compared to other cities in the so-called “free zone” – such as Lyon or Clermont Ferrand. And that situation, being off the major routes, makes it peaceful and relaxing.

The town possesses many fine hotels – and the Hotel de Ville – of the late 19^th Century – but nowadays there are plenty of modern buildings to house tourists or those who come for the beneficial effects of the Spa – Thermes – and the waterfront alongside the river/lake (the Allier)  offer more energetic pursuits.

To reach Vichy from the north take the A77 autoroute to Nevers and Moulins and beyond.

There is a train service direct from Paris Gare de Lyon – you can book tickets from London and the UK with RailEurope

Hotel de Ville, Vichy

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The locals are called Vichyssoises – also the name given to a classic cold leek and potato soup – so-named by the creative chef who lived near Vichy. Also known for Vicy Water – an effervescent mineral water which has been bottled in the region for many years.

The Segala is a rural area comprising part of the south Aveyron and northern Tarn departments.

The Segala is an old provencal region also known as the Land of the 100 Valleys. The area is a little known gem often by-passed by sun worshipers on the way to the Mediterranean.  Indeed the Aveyron boasts no less than 9 Plus Beaux Villages de France more than any other department. Among these is the bastide town of Sauverterre de Rouergue which has retained much of its medieval charm and throughout the summer many

medieval festivals are held here including the Fete de Bougie (8-9 August 2009)  and culminating with the chestnut and cider festival in October – Fete de la Chataigne (24-25 October 2009)
To the south of this region is Albi which is an absolute gem with its medieval streets and stunningly colossal 500 year old brick built cathedral. It is also the birth place of the artist Toulouse Lautrec and there is a fine museum of his work next to the cathedral : Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The region has to be one of the best undiscovered areas of France – stunning landscapes and few people!

Where to stay – Le Clot B&B- Owned and run by an English couple, Colin and Stephanie Evans, there are 3 double rooms for guests and all have private facilities. All rooms have been recently renovated keeping much of the character of the original buildings. Table d’hotes offered on request and using many ingredients from the garden or source them locally. Situated between Rodez and Albi.

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Papillon Restaurant 1, bis Rue Toulouse Lautrec, 8100 Albi. Tel 05 63 43 10 77. The restaurant specialises in American-Asian fusion and vegetarian cuisine – it is also excellent value for money.

Where to eat (gourmet):

Le Senechal in Sauverterre de Rouergue is an elegant Michelin starred restaurent. run by Michel Truchon – Tel. 05 65 71 20 00

Local food:

The Segala is noted for its ‘rosé’ veal from the many herds of limousin cattle -the Veau d’Aveyron et du Segala is renowned throughout France for its quality.

The other local delicacy is Tripoux a stew of veal tripe which is served for breakfast and special celebrations!!

Local wine:

This area is situated between the wine regions of Gaillac and Marcillac which both have AOC status. Gaillac AC wines are widely available in the UK and produce red, rose and white wines, the whites ranging from dry to rich dessert wines. Sparkling wines are also made here – look out for the Gaillac Perle AC – a very lightly sparkling wine made from the local L’En de l’El grape. (Gaillac Wine Fair in early August (8-9 August 2009)

Marcillac wines are seldom seen outside the local area.

Local markets: For authentic ‘French markets then Carmaux on Friday mornings and Villefranche de Rouergue on Thursday mornings are the best. For night markets where cooked food can be purchased from the producers and eaten on the spot – Sauverterre de Rouergue on Friday nights in July and August

Must see: The world famous Viaduc de Millau bridge that crosses the Tarn gorge designed by Sir Norman Foster is only an hour by car. Much closer is the Viaduc du Viaur – an impressive iron railway bridge which must have been as impressive to the visitors of the 1910s as the Millau viaduct is today!.

In Albi there is the Cathedral Saint Cécile and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum.

A bit of culture: Each year there is week long guitar festival in Albi (7-10 July 2010) and each August there is a festival of Ocitan music and poetry in Rodez

Shopping: Both Albi and Rodez have a good selection of retail outlets and nypermarkets – otherwise the small villages offer essentials and some interesting craft shops.

For a walk: The region has many marked ‘Randonee’ routes along river valleys and through wooded hills. The local tourism office offers a detailed itineraries and maps of walking trails.

For the children: Head for Cap Decouverte – a converted open cast mine now dedicated as a leisure site. It has water skiing, zip line, open air pool, beach, down hill cart track, dry ski slope, Between Rodez and Millau is Micropolis where the small world of insects can be explored. Or a litle further afield try the Velorail and Train Touristique de Larzac

Getting there: Fly to Rodez from Stansted and Dublin with Ryanair – or to Toulouse from numerous UK airports including Birmingham,

By car: Take the autoroute to Clermont Ferrand (A71) and then the A75 south to St Flour – taking the road to Albi

By train: not on the main TGV routes, but you can travel direct from Paris Austerlitz and book your tickets from the UK at RailEurope

Getting around: A car is essential – drive down or hire from the airport or railway station.

Some of these recommendations kindly supplied by Colin & Stephanie Evans who offer B&B (Chambres d’Hote) at le Clot

The three days includes processions, floats, music, dancing and a Miss Fleurs competition!!

Best known as a winter ski resort with its easy access from Toulouse, it remains nevertheless an attractive area to visit in Summer.

Located in the heart of the Pyrenees, at the foot of the highest summits of this spectacular range, LUCHON (630m) and SUPERBAGNERES (1860m) both benefit from a remarkable geographic location and an exceptional concentration of summits higher than 3000 metres.

Ever since the conquest of the Monts Maudits, all the great Pyrenean climbers have left their mark in the granite of the Luchon Mountains.

High altitude enthusiasts will find the quality of rock they’re looking for, from the endless treks on the ridges above 3000 metres, to the excitement of mountain climbs on the majestic rock faces of Pic Quaïrat or Les Spijeoles.

Numerous high altitude lakes invite you to stroll or fish, unless you’d prefer a botanical walk!

For more info see www.luchon.com

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However, there are other reasons to stop in the local areanewly-opened Calais Lace Museum (Cité Internationale de la dentelle et de la mode de Calais) which is a must see. Located in an original lace factory building, visitors can see original working Victorian lace machines and a stunning array of exhibits including a display of original lace clothes and fashion through the centuries. At the final gallery, visitors can use a special camera, which shows themselves dressed in any of the museum’s lace clothes – in 3D.

Just a 10 minute drive from Calais, the quaint, reconstructed Saint-Joseph Village offers a glimpse of what life was like in rural France between 1900 and 1950. Complete with a garage, school, blacksmith’s forge, sawmill and restaurant offering local recipes, this village is a unique learning experience for any child.

Seafrance Ferries are offering a 50% reduction for family entry to both attractions until 20 September 2009:-

Nine tourist attractions in the Calais area are giving SeaFrance customers 50% off family entry (two adults and up to three kids). Alternatively, SeaFrance customers can take advantage of a 20% discount on individual tickets. All customers need to do is show their SeaFrance car lane hangers when they turn up at an attraction- see www.seafrance.com

Other local attractions in or near Calais include:-
# Calais Lighthouse – 19th Century Lighthouse with great views over Calais and the English Channel
# Guines Clock Tower
# Eurolac & Naviboat – a leisure park with lake and self-drive boats around the local canal network
# Musée 39-45 - museum of the 1939-1945 War
# The Blockhaus at Eperlecques – part of the WWII preparations for invading England.
# Calais War Museum (WWII)
# Musée du Mur de l’Atlantique – a museum in a WWII bunker focussing on the contruction of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall

One of my personal favourites is the City Hall with its imposing belfry and Rodin’s sculpture of the “Burghers of Calais”
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Trogneux Chocolate

However a recent visit (in summer) there were 2 other discoveries – firstly a superb Chocolatier at Jean Trogneux where delicious chocolate and biscuit creations are made, including the famous Macaroons of Amiens and wafer-thin biscuits called “Tuiles”.
Trogneux, 1 rue Delambre – Zone piétonne – BP 20823 – 80008 AMIENS

Amiens Tourist Office Website

The Somme is of course closely associated with the First World War and is littered with many war cemeteries and memorials. On this ocassion we headed for the Australianand New Zealand War Memorial at Villers-Brettoneux a few kilometres due east of Amiens. Visiting war cemeteries is inevitably a little sombre, but this one was striking. Although the memorial looked a but stumpy and monolithic from a distance, closer to, and within the context of the rest of the cemetery it was much more graceful. The place had a sense of peace and tranquility about it – and as an added bonus a climb to the top of the tower offers some stunning views over the landscape – and that too looks beautiful.

Strangely enough, more Australians and New Zealanders (ANZACs) were killed in France in WWI, but Gallipolli is more keenly remembered and commemorated with Anzac Day.

11,000 Australians and New Zealanders with no known grave are commemorated at Villers-Bretonneux – and the village is proud of its connection with Australia.

There is another memorial to British and Australian victims of WWI at Fromelles (59 Nord, Nord-Pas de Calais) just west of Lille.

See more on Villers-Bretonneux
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Although it is a coastal port, the city is protected from the sea with by the Golfe de Morbihan which provides many opportunities for water sports and sailing.

But for this one week there are some great Jazz perforances from the likes of the Buena Vista Social Club and the Carla Bley Big Band.

The festival is also an opportunity to discover emerging young talents and for amateur and professional musicians to express themselves through the springboard and jam sessions. The entire town lives in step with jazz during the daytime entertainment, the concerts in the Auditorium des Carmes and the “jazz off” event, with evenings of improvisation and concerts organised throughout the city.
The 30th Festival will begin with the traditional free evening event in the Place de Hôtel de Ville and at the new esplanade on the right bank of the harbour.

More info on the Jazz à Vannes Festival
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The Cathedral of St Etienne of Bourges, built between the late 12th and late 13th centuries, is one of the great masterpieces of Gothic art and is admired for its proportions and the unity of its design. The tympanum, sculptures and stained-glass windows are particularly striking. Apart from the beauty of the architecture, it attests to the power of Christianity in medieval France.

As an extra bonus, the Cathedral is illuminated as night as part of Les Nuits Lumière de Bourges

ievery Thursday, Friday and Saturday night in July, August and September 2009 from dusk.

Additionally on Fridays 3  July 2009, 29 August 2009 and 18 September 2009 locals will be in costume, and on Fridays 17,24 and 31 July 2009, 7 and 14 August 2009 there will also be the opportunity to taste the wines of the region (Vins du Centre, which includes Sancerre, Quincy, Reuilly, Menetou-Salon, Poully-Fumé, Coteaux du Giennois and Chateaumeillant AC)

More info on Bourges
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More info on the wines of Centre

The Great Saltworks of Salins-les-Bains, where brine has been extracted since the Middle Ages if not earlier, features three buildings above ground: salt stores, the Amont well building and a former dwelling. It is linked to Claude-Nicolas Ledoux’s Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans and bears testimony to the history of salt extraction in France. (The Royal Saltworks represented)…the first major achievement of industrial architecture, reflecting the ideal of progress of the Enlightenment. This vast, semicircular complex was designed to permit a rational and hierarchical organization of work and was to have been followed by the building of an ideal city, a project that was never realized.

Not on the usual list of tourist attractions for most of us, but this looks to be an interesting gem in a part of France that many visitors miss.

Whilst in the département of the Doubs, you can also enjoy the delights of the “Swallows Line”  (la Ligne des Hirondelles)

Claimed to be one of the most beautiful railway journeys in France, the Ligne des Hirondelles crosses the Jura, in a trip lasting 2½ hours, travelling over 120 km between plain and mountain, through the forest of Chaux, the vineyards of Arbois, the vast Grandvaux plateaus, and the Valley of la Bienne.
It boasts a number of very impressive engineering structures. The 123 kilometre line, linking Dole and Saint-Claude, goes through 36 tunnels and crosses 18 viaducts. It climbs from 200 metres of altitude (at Dole station) to 948 metres (at its highest point, the Col de la Savine) before descending again to 440 metres of altitude at Saint-Claude. The trip from Morez to Saint-Claude alone goes through 18 tunnels, totalling 470 metres, with 10 bridges and viaducts. The leg from Morbier to Morez epitomises the Swallows Line. (see our map)

More info on The Royal Saltworks
More info on The Swallows Line
More info on the Doubs

But this is not just children’s sand castles on the beach which will be wiped out at the next tide – no these are art sculptures using special sand brought in from Belgium, and with the theme of the kings of France:-

discover France and the secret history of its Kings. An amazing portrait gallery of differing destinies, sometimes amusing, often tormented and always exceptional… Re-live history and set out to conquer the royal sculptures! …

For more info see www.sculpturesdesable.com

For more info on Le Touquet see the official tourist office site

For more info see www.mainsquarefestival.fr

For more info on Arras -  see www.ot-arras.fr/

For four weeks the streets of Paris are transformed into a huge open-air performing arts space for the Summer Arts Festival . The event includes opera, jazz, theatre, classical music, circus, film and dance in avariety of venues which include m cinemas, the Latin Quarter and the Jardin des Tuileries.
For more info see www.quartierdete.com

Bordeaux has improved its image and facilities in recent years and now celebrates its river (Garonne) with a River Festival (20-21 June 2009) – Fete du Fleuve Bordeaux with singing and dancing on the quays throughout the weekend.

Previously the riverside tended to be more industrial and delapidated – or bordered by heavy traffic – so along with many other aspects of the city it has become more visitor-friendly and relaxed.

Bordeaux will play host to a new festival open to the public and centred on the Garonne river, music, and dance on 20-21 June 2009. This will coincide with the arrival of the Belem, France’s last surviving three-masted tall ship, which  will drop anchor in the Port de la Lune, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For more info see www.bordeaux-fete-le-fleuve.com

For more recommendations on where to stay, eat, visit etc see “le weekend in Bordeaux”

The website at http://fetedelamusique.culture.fr (in french) provides a way to search for events for the day by region, departement of music genre. – so whether it be Paris or Perpignan you should find something to entice you.

Carhaix is just an hour by road from the port of Roscoff (Brittany Ferries) and can also be reached from Brest (Ryanair from London Luton and Dublin) and has good bus and train links with the rest of Brittany.

For more info see www.vieillescharrues.asso.fr

The Festival d’Avignon has long been an international platform for the performing arts, gathering artists and audiences from all around the world.
This year, the programme welcomes artists and performances from many countries and many languages will be heard on the festival stages:French from three different continents as well as English, Spanish, Italian, Arabic, Polish, German and Hebrew.

For more info see www.festival-avignon.com

The best way to get there would be to take the Eurostar and TGV train direct from London – city centre to city centre, economical and environmentally friendly.

During the first week of August Bayonne is ablaze in red & white with everyone dressed in the traditional white shirts and trousers and red neckerchiefs and sashes. The festival opens on the Wednesday night at 10p.m. in the town Hall square. The mythical King Leon of Bayonne appears on the balcony and celebrates his return by throwing the symbolic keys of the town to the crowd. Music, shouts and colours invade the town centre. Les Fêtes de Bayonne is the most important moment of the year for the inhabitants…no one would miss it !!!
If you come to the Festival, you’ll enjoy the incredible atmosphere and enthusiasm, running of the young bulls, bullfights, bandas (music bands) in the streets …

For more info see www.fetes.bayonne.fr/

For more info see www.choregies.com

Why Eastern Burgundy? An opportunity to get the best of both worlds – within easy distance of the classic treasures of Burgundy and the famous Burgundy vineyards whilst also exploring some of the lesser-known delights of the region which most visitors by-pass on the way south.
This is a wonderful area. Burgundy is rightly world famous for its wines and countryside but try the Jura. Most people have only heard of it through Jurassic era rocks & Jurassic Park films. John & Carolyn Scallan fell in love with it. Join them, you won’t regret it.

Where to stay: Le Bourg B&B in Sens-sur-Seille (71 Saone-et-Loire) is is run by John & Carolyn Scallan who are English but happy to live in France, – a good job as they’ve been here for 6 years now.
4 bedrooms, all en-suite, and each with their own individual design welcome you. Two doubles, one twin and a family room for up to four. Evening meals can be arranged using as much as possible from theirur own garden.! Breakfasts with home made jams and PROPER marmalade, served on the terrace when fine.

Nearest Town: Chalons-sur-Saone (40km); Arlay (16km), Louhans (18km)

Where to eat? If not at the B&B, then the Hotel St Germain in nearby St.Germain du Bois (6 kms). Good French restaurant, very popular with the locals and ex-pat Swiss who always know good value when it is around. Salads and good main courses. The 24 Euro menu is always great. It MAY JUST be possible  to give you a lift and pick you up later to help you “enjoy” the meal.

Where to eat (gourmet):
Les Trois Colombes just 300 metres from us. Run by two Swiss ladies this is a real treat. High quality food in calm and beautiful surrondings. The menu featuring “les trois filets” is superb.

Where to eat (value for money):
La Siesta Pizzeria in Bletterans (10 kms) Good value, great atmosphere and an all round enjoyable time. Proper size chips as well, not the thin “allumettes”. The Chicken Liver salad as a starter sets the tone. They do takeaways as well and, the height of nouvelle technologie they’ve got a “Pizzamatic”! A genuine Hole in the wall Pizza machine! Credit card in, choose your pizza (or two etc) and wait. Three minutes later the first will arrive and so on piping hot and in it’s own box – the wonders of technology!

Local food:
This region of France is called the Bresse and is famed for it’s poultry. Poulet de Bresse in Vin Jaune with Morilles is the region’s signature dish. Featuring the chicken (specially reared, free range chickens) and a sauce made of local mushrooms and the stunning powerhouse wine of nearby (4 kms) Jura.

Local wine:
Obviously Burgundy. Beaune is 40 kms away and could lead you into serious trouble with your bank manager but it would be worth it. For a more affordable Burgundy try the Hautes Cotes du Nuits and Hautes Cotes du Beaune or the Cote Chalonnaise. The owners have contacts in all. For something different; head eastwards into the Jura and try their wines. The Vin Jaune (see above) is one of a range of amazing and highly individual wines from this smallest of wine regions. The owners of the B&B have contacts with several winemakers and can easily arrange tastings. The local Cremant (champagne but not allowed to call it that) from friends the Chevassus is stunning. Try it.

Local markets:
St Germain du Bois (6 kms) on Saturday Morning (0900 – 1200) is a traditional morning market. Fruit & veg stalls, clothes, cheese (the B&B gets its cheese from here) butchery etc etc. The rotisserie chicken lady does a mean chicken with onions, tomatoes & gravy and a loaf of bread from either of the bakeries in the town with perhaps something naughty for pudd………..
Chalon sur Saone on Sunday morning. Mainly food market in the St. Vincent square. The cathedral dominates the sqaure and the market bustles along throughout the morning. Take a stroll through the old town, have a drink and watch the world go by.
On Monday morning, Louhans has the largest market in the area, taking up the whole of the town centre, with food, clothing and household goods and livestock too.

Must see:
The Hotel Dieu in Beaune is spectacular, open all year from 9am to 6pm (closes for lunch only in mid-winter).
The Chateau d’Arlay is open during June to September for visitors or all year long for it’s wine.
The Burgundy winerouteTouristique des Grands Crus) is like driving through all the most famous names on a wine list!
(Route The Jura countryside whose stunning scenery, including lakes, rivers, waterfalls, caves, vineyards, abbeys and castles.

The Jura Wine Route (route des vins de Jura) – “stretching over the 80 kilometres of sunny slopes called “the Revermont”, you will find an area rich in character that will reveal to you all it’s treasures. Exceptional wines, beautiful countryside, enchanting villages, gastronomy of the highest order and many other activities which promise all manner of good things.”

The hilltop village of Chateau Chalon.

For something very different, how about lunch, a bit of culture, shopping and something for the kids all in one place? Sounds good? It’s at the local motorway service station!! No kidding! Just ask for details!

A bit of culture?
Chateau de Pierre de Bresse has a local museum and lots to do for a morning or afternoon.
The photography museum in Chalon sur Saone is worth seeing for some of it’s temporary exhibitions.
The Hospice de Beaune (see above) is really well worth visiting
La Maison de la Haute Seille is a new museum of the region aound Chateau Chalon with lots to do (open Sat & Sun from 9 to 12 and 2 to 6) . They are slowly getting the English translation sorted out for all of the panels and, hopefully, the audio side of things.
The abbey at Baume Les Messieurs….. we could go on and on!

Somewhere for a walk?
Loads of quiet roads, paths, and marked routes. There are details of some in the Jura and a lot of local maps at the B&B

Something for the kids?
Lac Chalain about 30 kms. Beaches, entertainment and the like.
The Aurochs farm (www.ferme-auroch.com) ,(auroch= an ancient breed of cattle) near the Cascades des Herisson about 40 kms. Rare breed cattle, bison, Aurochs and, somewhat bizzarely, Dalmations.
Visit a snail farm. Bet you didn’t expect that! July & Aug are best for this, it can be arranged by the B&B
Or how about a river cruise on the Saone, with commentary by the English speaking captain and co-owner

Getting there?
Car is best. (more room to take the wine home.) The B&B is about 410 miles south of the Channel ports. From Calais etc, head for Reims, then Troyes, Dijon. Take A36 to the A39 and come off at junction 8. Remember a map or the GPS co-ordinates above. Otherwise, Sens-sur-Seille is between an hour and a half and two hours from both Lyon and Geneva airports, with low-cost flights from all over the UK

Getting around:
A car, frankly, is essential here. There are bikes available for hire so that the fitter amongst you can get a healthy buzz. If you let the B&B know the day before they can arrange a picnic lunch and recommend routes which are quiet and relatively flat to amble along. Should you be of a more Tour de France disposition there are longer routes of over 100 kms as well!

When to come?:
June through to September is best with the Montgolfiades Hot air Balloon festival in early June
Chalon dans la Rue festival of street theatre in July
Jazz festivals; Water festivals and a whole range of other festivals taking place over the summer months.
Late september is usually harvest time and the vineyards are alive with people picking grapes.
October things start to quieten down a bit. In November there is the release of the Beaujolais Nouveau in Beaujeu (about 75 mins away). Great fun and the wines is usually very good. The weekend after that is the Beaune wine festival where the great and the good get together to sort out the price of this years vintage Burgundies. The first weekend in February is the big wine festival in the Jura where about 80 winemakers gather together and celebrate the new vintage Vin Jaune (it’s had 6 years maturing in its barrels and is adjudged ready). Lots of other smaller festivals dotted around the year

For a longer stay?:
Louhans (about 10 miles away) has a market on Mondays all through the year. In summer it totally dominates the town. All the usual items plus hardware, fashion and livestock. Get there fairly early to get a good parking spot!
Go wine-tasting at a local producer (or two). John & Carolyn have lots of contacts in the business and can set these up and sometimes accompany you. Visit the Jura wines website www.laroutedesvinsdujura.com for information on lots of small events in the region.
There’s a tasting evening every Tuesday in season in nearby Lavigny that’s great fun but best if your French is fairly reasonable.

For more info on Le Bourg B&B see  Le Bourg B&B or use the enquiry form below.

For more info on the local area see the local tourist office websites at Tourisme Jura or Tourisme Saone-et-Loire

cforms contact form by delicious:days

Map showing the location of Sens-sur-Seille