Whilst the Somme is usually connected with sombre moments of our history, it is nevertheless an area of considerable natural beauty – from the many “étangs” or lakes inland, to the river valley iself which snakes across the landscape – to the Baie de la Somme, the Bay where the river meets the sea with its wide sandy flats proving to be a haven for birds – you can hardly fail to see a wide selection of wildlife if you take the time to stop and look. Or take advantage of the flat cycle and walking paths which are provided in abundance. The Somme Bay covers 7,000 hectares and is also known as “the Camargue of the North”.

The Bird and Nature Festival is held every year in April, a period which is favourable for observing birds in the Somme Bay.
It is an event for the general public offering activities for the whole family over a period of 9 days :
* Guided nature rambles,
* Screenings of ornithological, animal-related and environmental documentaries,
* Exhibitions of animal art or photos,
* Children’s workshops,
* Lectures,
* Photography and watercolour painting courses,
* Shows…
The Festival is the event offering the widest range of guided nature rambles over a 9-day period in France (over 200 rambles on foot, horseback, bicycle, in kayaks, etc.).
2 international competitions (a film competition and a photo competition) which are open both to professionals and amateurs, are held as part of the event.

There are just a couple of interesting villages in the area of the Bay – Le Crotoy and St Valery-sur-Somme which face each other across the sandy bay – linked in summer by a Tourist Steam Tran service.

Centrally situated just a few minutes walk from the town centre of St Valery-sur-Somme in the Rue des Moulins is the up-market Hotel des Corderies which offers 11 stylish rooms providing calm and comfort.

The area is just a short detour off the A16 autoroute near Abbeville between Boulogne and Rouen. For more info on the Bird Festival see www.bird-nature-festival.co.uk/

Moby are introducing a new service from Toulon (83 Var, Provence, Alpes. Cote d’Azur) to Bastia from April 2010. Moby and other ferry operators also sail from Marseille, Nice and numerous points on the Italian coast. You can also go via Sardinia.

Corsica differs from the idea one has of the Mediterranean islands. In fact, no other island is as green as Corsica: from its Laricio pine forests and emerald-green mountain lakes, to its fragrant maquis [scrub], cooling high mountain pastures and wine-growing lands. If Corsica is an “emerald isle”, it owes it to its unique topography in the Mediterranean: this “mountain in the sea” is well deserving of its nickname, with 120 peaks above an altitude of 2 000 m, which remain snow-capped until the spring. The 25 watercourses that flow through it make the island the best irrigated in the Mediterranean Basin. To top it all, Corsica offers the luxury of 1 000 km of the richest, most varied coastline. With a “Parc Naturel Régional” [Regional Natural Park] that covers two-thirds of its surface area, Corsica is a well-preserved island divided between nature reserves and listed sites.

Other ferry operators to Corsica include
S.N.C.M

CORSICA FERRIES,

see also Corsica Tourist Office website

Book Ferry crossings on MOBY and throughout Europe –

Although no great fan of Ryanair’s outrageous pricing policy which ends up charging you extra for almost anything they can think of, such as luggage, payment by credit card etc – the airline has enabled many Brits to access parts of France by air which might not have been possible. So, you could spice up a stay in Poitou-Charentes with a few days in Spain – and Barcelona is well worth a visit with its architecture, proximity to the Mediterranean and vibrant day and night life!

Unlike some airline destinations, Poitiers-Biard Airport is close to the centre of the town

There is also a new route starting in March 2010 from Pau (64 Pyrenees-Atlantiques, Aquitaine) in the foothills of the Pyrenees to Beauvais (60 Oise, Picardie), north of Paris. – which takes just 90 minutes in the air! – and Edinburgh to Bordeaux (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) from March 2010

For more info see www.ryanair.com

LD Lines’ tourist fares on the Ramsgate – Ostend service will be available for cars and passengers, cars and caravans, motorhomes, motorcycles and for added on board passenger comfort facilities include cabins and sleeper seats. LD Lines’ launch offer starts from £24 single for a car and five passengers.

LD Lines’ cross channel ferry service network includes : Dover – Boulogne, Newhaven – Dieppe and Portsmouth – Le Havre routes.

This may not seem an obvious option for travel to France – but it can make sense for North East and Eastern France – e.g. Alsace. The absence of autoroute tolls in Belgium may make a difference, The crossing however takes slightly under 4 hours.

Book LD Lines through FerryCheap.com

The Spanish terminal is at Santurtzi about 10 miles from the city on the edge of the Basque country. For francophiles the advantage is that Bilbao is less than 2 hours from the French border and destinations such as Biarritz and Bayonne, and as such offers a much more convenient journey to the Pyrenees than driving all the way from the Engish Channel, Normandy or Brittany. By comparison Biarritz is more than 660 miles from Calais, over 500 miles from Caen, Le Havre and Cherbourg and 450 miles from St Malo. By the time you factor in the cost of autoroute tolls and overnight accommodation the higher cost of the 35-hour crossing (or cruise).

After September 2010 the only alternative will be the Brittany Ferries Service to Santander which is about an hour further west than Bilbao.
I keep hoping that someone would open a ferry service from UK to Bordeaux which would be an ideal entry point for the whole of SouthWest France.

The most famous, the nosiest, the most mental, but also the oldest, is the Dunkerque Carnival. For weeks on end, groups called fisherbands take the measure of each other, confront each other with sarabands and songs, disperse and liven up the town, and finally come together in one huge choir to celebrate their sailors, honour Jean Bart, and claim, with body and voice, their herrings thrown from the top of the belfry.
If you’ve never done Carnival here, you’ve never seen a real carnival !

For more info see www.northernfrance-tourism.com
Of course Dunkerque is directly connected from Dover with Norfolkline Ferries – but beware that the port (near Loon-Plage) is some 18km from the town centre

Using a site such as www.ferrycheap.com offers price comparisons and is currently advertising the following early booking fares:

P&O Ferries from £25

SeaFrance from £22

LD Lines from £18

Eurotunnel from£53

NorfolkLine from £14

Some fares may be single, or day trip – be sure to check and make sure you know the booking conditions in case you need to change the date/time of the crossing. Most companies, make some allowance for late arrivals because of traffic or breakdown, but there are limits, and of course on some of the longer crossings the next ferry may be 6 or more hours later/

;Now the Administrators Ernst & Young are reporting that the proceeds of the sale of assets (including SpeedOne) will not even raise enough money to pay off the Bank who are secured creditors; so there is nothing to be shared with preferential or  unsecured creditors such as ticket holders.

The Bank of Scotland got about £2m back, and Ernst & Young earned over £880,000 for being Administrators.

The only hope for paying customers would appear to be through the credit card companies if you paid by credit card.

Since the collapse of SpeedFerries LD Lines has been developing the Dover – Boulogne route which remains one of my preferred routes into northern France.

Boulogne's port hub

LD Lines Ferries are changing over to a traditional ferry on their Dover-Boulogne cross-channel route which will increase capacity and competition on the short-sea crossings from Dover. Also there is now a new Ferry port at Boulogne which will hopefully be less down-at-heel than the previous landing point. The new terminal is called the Boulogne Hub Port, which remains close to the town centre and provides reasonable access to the A16 and other autoroutes. Additionally passengers can leave their car in a free car park by the terminal and with a short walk across a footbridge into the heart of the town.

From early November 2009 the Norman Spirit will transfer from its current Western Channel Portsmouth – Le Havre route to commence operations on LD Lines’ Dover – Boulogne service, considerably increasing freight and tourist traffic capacity. The high speed catamaran Norman Arrow, which began operating across the Dover Straits in June 2009, will re-locate to the Portsmouth – Le Havre route, where she will begin a six month seasonal operation from Easter to September 2010. Norman Spirit will operate four return sailings daily between Dover and Boulogne and provide a crossing time of one hour 45 minutes. The ship has capacity for 1850 passengers, 700 cars, 110 freight vehicles and the service will also carry coaches and foot passengers.

LD Lines is also offering 10,000 Tickets @£22.50 each way for a car + 4 passengers – a limited number available at this price – so book soon – see www.ldlines.com

Boulogne is a pleasant arrival port – and the town is well worth a visit. Like most ferry ports industry and warehousing tend to dominate the immediate  area, but the more interesting and  attractive parts of the town are close by. The ferry trip provides a good view of the French coast (when the weather is good) and is schedules to take 105 minutes – slightly longer than the Dover-Calais crossing, but being further south compensates if  heading towards Paris, Rouen, Normandy, Picardie or beyond.

Find the best rates for Hotels in Boulogne-sur-Mer

From a spectator point of view it promises a good day out in the Medoc – as although you miss the momentary flash of 100+ professional cyclists zooming past, you get to see ech rider individually and can make a whole day of it with the race taking 2 hours or so to pass.

For more info see www.letour.fr

This is a good route to avoid the long journey from the Midlands and North down to Dover, and the road connections from Zeebrugge are really good – an only about 3 hours from Paris – i.e. only about 20 minutes further than from Calais.

What better way to rediscover the magic of France than by immersing yourself in the colours, the culture and the party atmosphere that is the France Show 2010 – the UK’s largest celebration of all that makes France such a special place.

The Show includes a wide variety of French themes including cookery demonstrations; Travel, Language and French property seminars; the UK’s largest French property exhibition; Top French restaurants to eat at and a French Market selling produce and fashions,

For more info see www.thefranceshow.com/

…the established showcase of the Minervois, is preparing its annual fortnight-long festival of the senses –
art, culture and fabulous food – all designed to introduce you to the delights of the region.
An astonishing range of activities, from the creative arts, food and wine tastings, evenings of music ranging from jazz to the classics, strolls through the vineyards, cinema , theatre paying tribute to PierrePaul Riquet with Guy Vassal’s play “The Madman of the Canal”, a cabaret evening dining to the poetry of Charles Trenet….You can choose to follow an exciting and varied programme of events; alternatively you are welcome to organise your own tour around the region where a profusion of historic sites, workshops and exhibitions await you.

The programme includes a wide range of open-days at winemakers throughout the region including Minervois AOC, St Jean-de-Minervois and Minervois-la-Lavinière which include some great Languedoc reds, whites and dessert wines.

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

Get the best rates for other hotels in Lille

Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

The Segala is a rural area comprising part of the south Aveyron and northern Tarn departments.

The Segala is an old provencal region also known as the Land of the 100 Valleys. The area is a little known gem often by-passed by sun worshipers on the way to the Mediterranean.  Indeed the Aveyron boasts no less than 9 Plus Beaux Villages de France more than any other department. Among these is the bastide town of Sauverterre de Rouergue which has retained much of its medieval charm and throughout the summer many

medieval festivals are held here including the Fete de Bougie (8-9 August 2009)  and culminating with the chestnut and cider festival in October – Fete de la Chataigne (24-25 October 2009)
To the south of this region is Albi which is an absolute gem with its medieval streets and stunningly colossal 500 year old brick built cathedral. It is also the birth place of the artist Toulouse Lautrec and there is a fine museum of his work next to the cathedral : Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The region has to be one of the best undiscovered areas of France – stunning landscapes and few people!

Where to stay – Le Clot B&B- Owned and run by an English couple, Colin and Stephanie Evans, there are 3 double rooms for guests and all have private facilities. All rooms have been recently renovated keeping much of the character of the original buildings. Table d’hotes offered on request and using many ingredients from the garden or source them locally. Situated between Rodez and Albi.

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Papillon Restaurant 1, bis Rue Toulouse Lautrec, 8100 Albi. Tel 05 63 43 10 77. The restaurant specialises in American-Asian fusion and vegetarian cuisine – it is also excellent value for money.

Where to eat (gourmet):

Le Senechal in Sauverterre de Rouergue is an elegant Michelin starred restaurent. run by Michel Truchon – Tel. 05 65 71 20 00

Local food:

The Segala is noted for its ‘rosé’ veal from the many herds of limousin cattle -the Veau d’Aveyron et du Segala is renowned throughout France for its quality.

The other local delicacy is Tripoux a stew of veal tripe which is served for breakfast and special celebrations!!

Local wine:

This area is situated between the wine regions of Gaillac and Marcillac which both have AOC status. Gaillac AC wines are widely available in the UK and produce red, rose and white wines, the whites ranging from dry to rich dessert wines. Sparkling wines are also made here – look out for the Gaillac Perle AC – a very lightly sparkling wine made from the local L’En de l’El grape. (Gaillac Wine Fair in early August (8-9 August 2009)

Marcillac wines are seldom seen outside the local area.

Local markets: For authentic ‘French markets then Carmaux on Friday mornings and Villefranche de Rouergue on Thursday mornings are the best. For night markets where cooked food can be purchased from the producers and eaten on the spot – Sauverterre de Rouergue on Friday nights in July and August

Must see: The world famous Viaduc de Millau bridge that crosses the Tarn gorge designed by Sir Norman Foster is only an hour by car. Much closer is the Viaduc du Viaur – an impressive iron railway bridge which must have been as impressive to the visitors of the 1910s as the Millau viaduct is today!.

In Albi there is the Cathedral Saint Cécile and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum.

A bit of culture: Each year there is week long guitar festival in Albi (7-10 July 2010) and each August there is a festival of Ocitan music and poetry in Rodez

Shopping: Both Albi and Rodez have a good selection of retail outlets and nypermarkets – otherwise the small villages offer essentials and some interesting craft shops.

For a walk: The region has many marked ‘Randonee’ routes along river valleys and through wooded hills. The local tourism office offers a detailed itineraries and maps of walking trails.

For the children: Head for Cap Decouverte – a converted open cast mine now dedicated as a leisure site. It has water skiing, zip line, open air pool, beach, down hill cart track, dry ski slope, Between Rodez and Millau is Micropolis where the small world of insects can be explored. Or a litle further afield try the Velorail and Train Touristique de Larzac

Getting there: Fly to Rodez from Stansted and Dublin with Ryanair – or to Toulouse from numerous UK airports including Birmingham,

By car: Take the autoroute to Clermont Ferrand (A71) and then the A75 south to St Flour – taking the road to Albi

By train: not on the main TGV routes, but you can travel direct from Paris Austerlitz and book your tickets from the UK at RailEurope

Getting around: A car is essential – drive down or hire from the airport or railway station.

Some of these recommendations kindly supplied by Colin & Stephanie Evans who offer B&B (Chambres d’Hote) at le Clot

Saumur  (49 Maine et Loire, Pays de Loire)

Where to stay

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Bellevue (above) also offers Tables d’Hote (“host’s table, fixed price menu – booked in advance) – their “Découverte du Terroir’ is something you won’t find in a restaurant.  Carefully selected by Gérald the large plateau of local delicacies and handed down recipes from Grandma ensure a true French supper.  Accompanied by a complimentary bottle of AOC Saumur wine, dine leisurely in the peaceful grounds of ‘the Domaine.

Where to eat (gourmet):

l’Hélianthe (The Helianthos) – for good food and a fabulous setting,  a  “restaurant troglodytique” (set in troglodyte caves).  Highly recommended.

Place Antoine Cristal, Turquant - about 10km south-east of Saumur along the river valley.
T: 02.41.51.22.28

La Licorne – a Michelin starred restaurant serving modern French cuisine  in the historical town of Fontrevraud l’Abbaye (abput 15km southeast of Saumur)

Restaurant la Licorne, Allée Sainet Catherine, Fontrevaud l’Abbaye
T:02.41.51.72.49

Where to eat (value for money):

For a picnic or snack between sight-seeing visits step into any boulangerie for a sandwich, quiche or slice of pizza followed by a mouth watering pastry.

Local food:

The specialty of the Saumur region are les Fouées, hollow unleavened breads filled with rillettes and confit de canard, served hot and accompanied by another specialty, large grilled mushrooms dripping with garlic & parsley butter – yummy !!

Local wine:

Saumur has its own appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC Saumur) and produces a wide variety of wines including sparkling, white, rosé and red.  For those interested in learning more about wine the Beaumonts (above)  offer private wine tours & wine tastings and vineyard visits.

Market:

Saumur hosts a fabulous Saturday morning market full of fresh produce, livestock! and stalls with plenty of goodies you’ll want to take home with you.

Must See:

Château de Saumur – dominates the town of Saumur at the edge of the Loire river
Cadre Noir at the National Equestrian School of the elite French Cavalry
Visit a Loire Valley vineyard
A Loire Valley wine tour & wine tasting

When to come :

Saumur’s Wine Festival “La Marché des Vins de Saumur” which takes place the first weekend in September (4-6 September 2009)

Getting around:

Why not try cycling – the well-established Loire à Velo scheme  which offers cycling along the gentle banks of the Loire  with well-signposted cycle paths and itineraries.

There are also plenty of well-marked footpaths in the area – along the river and away from it – see www.saumur-rando.com (in French)

Local Tourist Office -

and remember this section of the Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site – The Loire Valley is noteworthy for the quality of its architectural heritage, in its historic towns such as Blois, Chinon, Orléans, Saumur, and Tours, but in particular in its world-famous castles, such as the Château de Chambord.

Thanks to Sarah-Jane Beaumont at Le Bellevue for some of these recommendations

“L’Oignon Rose de Roscoff” is now protected as an Appellation Controllée (AOC from 2009) due to its specific character (delicate skin, long life, intense flavour and good size – and only grown in and around Roscoff). If you are deeply interested in the history of this vegetable and its connection to the UK , visit the La maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff – the Onions Johnnies museum in Roscoff.  Festivities include an onion market, music , torchlit parade  and a  bicycle race!  Food based on the oignon feature of course – onion tarts, onion bread and onion soup – together with a dispay of impressive onion strings!!

Beyond Onions and Johnnies, I still consider Roscoff one of the pleasantest ports of arrival/departure in France – close to the town and retaining most of its medieval and maritime character it is a delightful place to spend an hour or so (or longer).

For more info on Roscoff and its Onion Festival see www.roscoff-tourisme.com

Brittany Ferries run services from Plymouth and Cork.
Find the best rates for Hotels in Roscoff

This comes at the same time as Ryanair has also announced the cancelling of many flights from Stansted over this winter.

So, much will depend on when you want to fly and how much you are willing to pay – and as always with Ryanair make sure that you take into account the additional costs that will be added to the headline price – i.e for online booking, baggage, priority boarding etc. However, the new Ryanair destination airports are local to the named city – but some airports can be some distance from the named city- e.g. Paris Beauvais is 50 miles (80km) north of Paris and takes about an hour and 15 minutes by bus.

For more info on Ryanair flights and destinations see www.ryanair.com
Air routes to France

However, there are other reasons to stop in the local areanewly-opened Calais Lace Museum (Cité Internationale de la dentelle et de la mode de Calais) which is a must see. Located in an original lace factory building, visitors can see original working Victorian lace machines and a stunning array of exhibits including a display of original lace clothes and fashion through the centuries. At the final gallery, visitors can use a special camera, which shows themselves dressed in any of the museum’s lace clothes – in 3D.

Just a 10 minute drive from Calais, the quaint, reconstructed Saint-Joseph Village offers a glimpse of what life was like in rural France between 1900 and 1950. Complete with a garage, school, blacksmith’s forge, sawmill and restaurant offering local recipes, this village is a unique learning experience for any child.

Seafrance Ferries are offering a 50% reduction for family entry to both attractions until 20 September 2009:-

Nine tourist attractions in the Calais area are giving SeaFrance customers 50% off family entry (two adults and up to three kids). Alternatively, SeaFrance customers can take advantage of a 20% discount on individual tickets. All customers need to do is show their SeaFrance car lane hangers when they turn up at an attraction- see www.seafrance.com

Other local attractions in or near Calais include:-
# Calais Lighthouse – 19th Century Lighthouse with great views over Calais and the English Channel
# Guines Clock Tower
# Eurolac & Naviboat – a leisure park with lake and self-drive boats around the local canal network
# Musée 39-45 - museum of the 1939-1945 War
# The Blockhaus at Eperlecques – part of the WWII preparations for invading England.
# Calais War Museum (WWII)
# Musée du Mur de l’Atlantique – a museum in a WWII bunker focussing on the contruction of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall

One of my personal favourites is the City Hall with its imposing belfry and Rodin’s sculpture of the “Burghers of Calais”
Find the best rates for Hotels in Calais

The authorities in France have a colour-coded system to signify traffic density, and for traffic heading away from the Paris region and towards the coast and mountains

ORANGE = dense traffic with local jams

RED = very dense traffic with many traffic jams (bouchons)

BLACK = the worst – extremely heavy traffic with many traffic jams on all routes.

FRIDAY 31 July 2009 is RED

SATURDAY 1 August 2009 is BLACK

SUNDAY 2 August is ORANGE, except for the South East (Rhone-Alpes region around Lyon) which is RED

Returning traffic is RED most Saturdays in August.

However, helpfully most roadworks are suspended over the weekends between mid-July and the end of August – so the problems will be due to sheer volume of traffic.

A good map is always useful, but also consider using France’s network of Alternative Routes (itineraire bis) which cover large areas of France and will take you on decent N roads and avoid the worst bottlenecks.

And also beware that some autoroute toll charges (péage) are higher in peak periods than at other times – e.g. on August Sunday afternoons heading towards Paris!

For more info on traffic conditions in France see www.bison-fute.equipement.gouv.fr

New Speed Limits for Caravans and trailers in France:-
The new speed limits for a car and caravan or trailer with combined gross weight over 3.5 tonnes and are 90kph on motorways and dual carriageways, 80kph on ordinary roads and the standard 50kph in towns.

Trogneux Chocolate

However a recent visit (in summer) there were 2 other discoveries – firstly a superb Chocolatier at Jean Trogneux where delicious chocolate and biscuit creations are made, including the famous Macaroons of Amiens and wafer-thin biscuits called “Tuiles”.
Trogneux, 1 rue Delambre – Zone piétonne – BP 20823 – 80008 AMIENS

Amiens Tourist Office Website

The Somme is of course closely associated with the First World War and is littered with many war cemeteries and memorials. On this ocassion we headed for the Australianand New Zealand War Memorial at Villers-Brettoneux a few kilometres due east of Amiens. Visiting war cemeteries is inevitably a little sombre, but this one was striking. Although the memorial looked a but stumpy and monolithic from a distance, closer to, and within the context of the rest of the cemetery it was much more graceful. The place had a sense of peace and tranquility about it – and as an added bonus a climb to the top of the tower offers some stunning views over the landscape – and that too looks beautiful.

Strangely enough, more Australians and New Zealanders (ANZACs) were killed in France in WWI, but Gallipolli is more keenly remembered and commemorated with Anzac Day.

11,000 Australians and New Zealanders with no known grave are commemorated at Villers-Bretonneux – and the village is proud of its connection with Australia.

There is another memorial to British and Australian victims of WWI at Fromelles (59 Nord, Nord-Pas de Calais) just west of Lille.

See more on Villers-Bretonneux
Find the best rates for Hotels in Amiens

However, Dieppe was (and is) a pleasant and less-crowded destination and did provide a useful start point for western France – or for exploring Picardie and the Seine Valley. You can still get a ferry to Dieppe from Newhaven on Transmanche ferries (also part of LD  Lines) – the crossing takes about 4 hours, but Newhaven is not so well connected to the motorway network.

Find the best rates for Hotels in Dieppe
There is a webcam overlooking Dieppe harbour and a motorhome parking area at www.dieppe.fr/webcams

The Great Saltworks of Salins-les-Bains, where brine has been extracted since the Middle Ages if not earlier, features three buildings above ground: salt stores, the Amont well building and a former dwelling. It is linked to Claude-Nicolas Ledoux’s Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans and bears testimony to the history of salt extraction in France. (The Royal Saltworks represented)…the first major achievement of industrial architecture, reflecting the ideal of progress of the Enlightenment. This vast, semicircular complex was designed to permit a rational and hierarchical organization of work and was to have been followed by the building of an ideal city, a project that was never realized.

Not on the usual list of tourist attractions for most of us, but this looks to be an interesting gem in a part of France that many visitors miss.

Whilst in the département of the Doubs, you can also enjoy the delights of the “Swallows Line”  (la Ligne des Hirondelles)

Claimed to be one of the most beautiful railway journeys in France, the Ligne des Hirondelles crosses the Jura, in a trip lasting 2½ hours, travelling over 120 km between plain and mountain, through the forest of Chaux, the vineyards of Arbois, the vast Grandvaux plateaus, and the Valley of la Bienne.
It boasts a number of very impressive engineering structures. The 123 kilometre line, linking Dole and Saint-Claude, goes through 36 tunnels and crosses 18 viaducts. It climbs from 200 metres of altitude (at Dole station) to 948 metres (at its highest point, the Col de la Savine) before descending again to 440 metres of altitude at Saint-Claude. The trip from Morez to Saint-Claude alone goes through 18 tunnels, totalling 470 metres, with 10 bridges and viaducts. The leg from Morbier to Morez epitomises the Swallows Line. (see our map)

More info on The Royal Saltworks
More info on The Swallows Line
More info on the Doubs

Crossing the wild country of the Cevennes in southern France this line passes through 106 tunnels and over almost 1,300 bridges, including the impressive 41 arch Chamborigaud Viaduct.

Easily reached by TGV from Paris, Nîmes is the starting point of this leisurely journey through the remote, wild country of the Cevennes. Though only 303km long, the line burrows through 106 tunnels and crosses almost 1,300 bridges, including some of the most impressive viaducts on French railways, such as the 28-arch edifice at Chapeauroux and the 41-arch near-semicircle of Chamborigaud Viaduct.

The southern plain of vineyards, Lombardy poplars and Aleppo pines gives way to a few miles of hilly post-industrial landscape with occasional traces of mining activity gradually being reclaimed by nature. The long climb into the Cevennes and the summit at La Bastide (1,023m above sea level) is flanked by woods and the occasional agricultural terrace etched into the hillside. Running across a plateau, the train offers panoramic views across hills stretching to the horizon. Lonely stations in the middle of nowhere make one wonder at the optimism of the railway’s builders. But perhaps the finest stretch is the long section of track built on a masonry ledge above the River Allier with glorious views along the sinuous valley.

The journey takes about 5½ hours, yet fares start at  just £34 – the 300km route passes through Ales, Chamborigaud, Villefort, Chapeauroux, Langogne, Langeac, Brioude and Issoire.

For more details see www.raileurope.co.uk

See map

Another acclaimed scenically beautiful rail route is in the French Comté – see http://frenchduck.com

Meanwhile budget airline Easyjet starts flights from London Luton to Montpellier in southern France from 7 July 2009 – well-positioned for the mediterranean beaches and the other joys of Provence and the Languedoc. – see www.easyjet.com

Buy at AllPosters.com

Bordeaux has improved its image and facilities in recent years and now celebrates its river (Garonne) with a River Festival (20-21 June 2009) – Fete du Fleuve Bordeaux with singing and dancing on the quays throughout the weekend.

Previously the riverside tended to be more industrial and delapidated – or bordered by heavy traffic – so along with many other aspects of the city it has become more visitor-friendly and relaxed.

Bordeaux will play host to a new festival open to the public and centred on the Garonne river, music, and dance on 20-21 June 2009. This will coincide with the arrival of the Belem, France’s last surviving three-masted tall ship, which  will drop anchor in the Port de la Lune, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For more info see www.bordeaux-fete-le-fleuve.com

For more recommendations on where to stay, eat, visit etc see “le weekend in Bordeaux”

Built in Hobart, Tasmania it underwent a 12000 mile oceanic crossing before entering service on the 60 minute each way short-sea crossing between Dover and Boulogne.

Carhaix is just an hour by road from the port of Roscoff (Brittany Ferries) and can also be reached from Brest (Ryanair from London Luton and Dublin) and has good bus and train links with the rest of Brittany.

For more info see www.vieillescharrues.asso.fr

Day 1

Cycling from London to Dover.

Board the ferry at Dover, arrive in Dieppe in the evening.

Day 2

Set off 10.00 am through the lovely French countryside.

Finish cycling early evening and stay overnight in a French country inn.

Day 3

Leave the hotel at 9.00 am.
Let’s go!

Finish cycling mid-late afternoon in Paris.

Day 4

Free morning with suggested options.

Transfer from hotel to Gare du Nord for Eurostar, arrive in St Pancras

Although it may be too late to register to take part in this 300km ride, you can watch and support them as they cycle through the English and French countryside – and it is easier to get to watch this  than the Tour de France,
For more info see: www.medecinsdumonde.org.uk

P&O Ferries have made sure that this year, despite everything, everyone will still be able to afford a break abroad.
With our great deals, we’re flying the flag for family holidays – you’ll be able to take your car and up to nine people from Dover to Calais from just £30 each way.

This offers a 90 minute crossing and up to 46 crossings daily in high season.

For more info see www.poferries.com