France Travel

UNESCO has just announced that it has extended recognition of the Royal Saltworks at Arc-et-Senans to include the Great (although presumably not Royal) Saltworks of nearby Salins-les-Bains (25 Doubs, Franche-Comté.)

The Great Saltworks of Salins-les-Bains, where brine has been extracted since the Middle Ages if not earlier, features three buildings above ground: salt stores, the Amont well building and a former dwelling. It is linked to Claude-Nicolas Ledoux’s Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans and bears testimony to the history of salt extraction in France. (The Royal Saltworks represented)…the first major achievement of industrial architecture, reflecting the ideal of progress of the Enlightenment. This vast, semicircular complex was designed to permit a rational and hierarchical organization of work and was to have been followed by the building of an ideal city, a project that was never realized.

Not on the usual list of tourist attractions for most of us, but this looks to be an interesting gem in a part of France that many visitors miss.

Whilst in the département of the Doubs, you can also enjoy the delights of the “Swallows Line”  (la Ligne des Hirondelles)

Claimed to be one of the most beautiful railway journeys in France, the Ligne des Hirondelles crosses the Jura, in a trip lasting 2½ hours, travelling over 120 km between plain and mountain, through the forest of Chaux, the vineyards of Arbois, the vast Grandvaux plateaus, and the Valley of la Bienne.
It boasts a number of very impressive engineering structures. The 123 kilometre line, linking Dole and Saint-Claude, goes through 36 tunnels and crosses 18 viaducts. It climbs from 200 metres of altitude (at Dole station) to 948 metres (at its highest point, the Col de la Savine) before descending again to 440 metres of altitude at Saint-Claude. The trip from Morez to Saint-Claude alone goes through 18 tunnels, totalling 470 metres, with 10 bridges and viaducts. The leg from Morbier to Morez epitomises the Swallows Line. (see our map)

More info on The Royal Saltworks
More info on The Swallows Line
More info on the Doubs

The railway journey from Nimes(30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon)  to Clermont Ferrand (63 Puy de Dome, Auvergne) offers you a different perspective on the Massif Central than most of us experience using the main north-south artery down the Autoroute du Soleil. Whilst the newer A75 route from Beziers to Clermont-Ferrand also offers some spectacular views, the train gives you more time to admire the landscape and takes you to places which the car cannot.

Crossing the wild country of the Cevennes in southern France this line passes through 106 tunnels and over almost 1,300 bridges, including the impressive 41 arch Chamborigaud Viaduct.

Easily reached by TGV from Paris, Nîmes is the starting point of this leisurely journey through the remote, wild country of the Cevennes. Though only 303km long, the line burrows through 106 tunnels and crosses almost 1,300 bridges, including some of the most impressive viaducts on French railways, such as the 28-arch edifice at Chapeauroux and the 41-arch near-semicircle of Chamborigaud Viaduct.

The southern plain of vineyards, Lombardy poplars and Aleppo pines gives way to a few miles of hilly post-industrial landscape with occasional traces of mining activity gradually being reclaimed by nature. The long climb into the Cevennes and the summit at La Bastide (1,023m above sea level) is flanked by woods and the occasional agricultural terrace etched into the hillside. Running across a plateau, the train offers panoramic views across hills stretching to the horizon. Lonely stations in the middle of nowhere make one wonder at the optimism of the railway’s builders. But perhaps the finest stretch is the long section of track built on a masonry ledge above the River Allier with glorious views along the sinuous valley.

The journey takes about 5½ hours, yet fares start at  just £34 - the 300km route passes through Ales, Chamborigaud, Villefort, Chapeauroux, Langogne, Langeac, Brioude and Issoire.

For more details see www.raileurope.co.uk

See map

Another acclaimed scenically beautiful rail route is in the French Comté - see http://frenchduck.com

Air France has introduced a new route from London’s City Airport to Nantes at the mouth of the Loire, ideally situated to explore Brittany, the Loire Valley and the Vendée - see www.airfrance.co.uk

Meanwhile budget airline Easyjet starts flights from London Luton to Montpellier in southern France from 7 July 2009 - well-positioned for the mediterranean beaches and the other joys of Provence and the Languedoc. - see www.easyjet.com

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Bordeaux has improved its image and facilities in recent years and now celebrates its river (Garonne) with a River Festival (20-21 June 2009) - Fete du Fleuve Bordeaux with singing and dancing on the quays throughout the weekend.

Previously the riverside tended to be more industrial and delapidated - or bordered by heavy traffic - so along with many other aspects of the city it has become more visitor-friendly and relaxed.

Bordeaux will play host to a new festival open to the public and centred on the Garonne river, music, and dance on 20-21 June 2009. This will coincide with the arrival of the Belem, France’s last surviving three-masted tall ship, which  will drop anchor in the Port de la Lune, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For more info see www.bordeaux-fete-le-fleuve.com

For more recommendations on where to stay, eat, visit etc see “le weekend in Bordeaux”

LD Lines’ new 112 metre catamaran, the Norman Arrow, has come into service offering  quick cross-channel connections between Dover and Boulogne. It is the first ever freight carrying high-speed ferry to traverse the Dover Straits with the latest in onboard facilities.

Built in Hobart, Tasmania it underwent a 12000 mile oceanic crossing before entering service on the 60 minute each way short-sea crossing between Dover and Boulogne.

If you are a fan of Bruce Springsteen, Lily Allen or Lenny Kravitz, then a visit to the town of Carhaix(29 Finistere, Brittany) from 16-19 July 2009 should be on your agenda. This is for the well-established Villes Charrues music festival - a literal translation being “old ploughs” festival. But be warned. this is a major music event attracting over 200.000 people from all over Europe and with an impressive international line-up.

Carhaix is just an hour by road from the port of Roscoff (Brittany Ferries) and can also be reached from Brest (Ryanair from London Luton and Dublin) and has good bus and train links with the rest of Brittany.

For more info see www.vieillescharrues.asso.fr