South West France

At Bellegarde-en-Marche (23 Creuse Limousin), the locals are so keen on goat that a Confrerie (or brotherhood) of Goat Meat Eaters (la confrérie des mangeurs de chèvres) has been established  to celebrate the local delicacy. However it is thought that the tradition goes back more to the use of sharpened goat horn to fight off the perfidious English than the animal’s meat.

In 2009 the Confrerie celebrates on Saturday 28 November with a parade of goats through the village and a banquet based on goat meat! The village  lies in a very rural part of France between Clermont Ferrand (50 miles)  and Limoges  (60 miles).

For more info see www.tourisme-creuse.com

The Minervois region of the Languedoc holds a wide-ranging cultural festivel from 22 October to 4 November 2009 called Les Grands Chemins (the big tracks)

…the established showcase of the Minervois, is preparing its annual fortnight-long festival of the senses –
art, culture and fabulous food – all designed to introduce you to the delights of the region.
An astonishing range of activities, from the creative arts, food and wine tastings, evenings of music ranging from jazz to the classics, strolls through the vineyards, cinema , theatre paying tribute to PierrePaul Riquet with Guy Vassal’s play “The Madman of the Canal”, a cabaret evening dining to the poetry of Charles Trenet….You can choose to follow an exciting and varied programme of events; alternatively you are welcome to organise your own tour around the region where a profusion of historic sites, workshops and exhibitions await you.

The programme includes a wide range of open-days at winemakers throughout the region including Minervois AOC, St Jean-de-Minervois and Minervois-la-Lavinière which include some great Languedoc reds, whites and dessert wines.

With such easy access from the UK by road or Eurostar Lille is a must to visit all year, and remains one of my favourite winter weekends. The combination of modern shopping malls and the nearby Vieux Lille (old town) offer something for everyone,

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

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Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

Another interesting cheese seldom seen in the UK is the Fourme de Montbrison which comes from an area known as Le Forez (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) between St Etienne and Clermont Ferrand. Similar to the Fourme d’Ambert this is a mild, soft blue cheese made from cows milk with its own AOC appellation.

The Fourme de Montbrison has only a small number of mould veins throughout and has a reddish rind. Its flavour is very mild with light nut and mushroom flavours.

On the weekend of 2-3-4 October 2009 the town of Montbrison celebrates its “Journées de la Fourme”

To accompany this mild cheese the local Cotes du Forez AOC wine which is made from Gamay would make a good choice – and this is also likely to be available to taste on the “Cheese Days”

For more info on Le Forez see www.foreztourisme.fr/

For more info on the cheese see www.fourme-montbrison.com

For more info on the Cotes dy Forez AOC wine see http://cotesduforez.fr

From 22-23 August 2009 the pretty Brittany port of Roscoff celebrates the local speciality – the Pink Onion (oignon rose) and the locals who used to cross over to England every August to sell these special onions to the British.

“L’Oignon Rose de Roscoff” is now protected as an Appellation Controllée (AOC from 2009) due to its specific character (delicate skin, long life, intense flavour and good size – and only grown in and around Roscoff). If you are deeply interested in the history of this vegetable and its connection to the UK , visit the La maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff – the Onions Johnnies museum in Roscoff.  Festivities include an onion market, music , torchlit parade  and a  bicycle race!  Food based on the oignon feature of course – onion tarts, onion bread and onion soup – together with a dispay of impressive onion strings!!

Beyond Onions and Johnnies, I still consider Roscoff one of the pleasantest ports of arrival/departure in France – close to the town and retaining most of its medieval and maritime character it is a delightful place to spend an hour or so (or longer).

For more info on Roscoff and its Onion Festival see www.roscoff-tourisme.com

Brittany Ferries run services from Plymouth and Cork.
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Luchon Flower Festival Poster 2009

The town of Luchon (31 Haut-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) (also known as Bagnères de Luchon) in the middle of the Pyrenees celebrates its 110th annual Festival Of Flowers (Fete des Fleurs) from 21-23 August 2009 with a retrospective view back to 1899!

The three days includes processions, floats, music, dancing and a Miss Fleurs competition!!

Best known as a winter ski resort with its easy access from Toulouse, it remains nevertheless an attractive area to visit in Summer.

Located in the heart of the Pyrenees, at the foot of the highest summits of this spectacular range, LUCHON (630m) and SUPERBAGNERES (1860m) both benefit from a remarkable geographic location and an exceptional concentration of summits higher than 3000 metres.

Ever since the conquest of the Monts Maudits, all the great Pyrenean climbers have left their mark in the granite of the Luchon Mountains.

High altitude enthusiasts will find the quality of rock they’re looking for, from the endless treks on the ridges above 3000 metres, to the excitement of mountain climbs on the majestic rock faces of Pic Quaïrat or Les Spijeoles.

Numerous high altitude lakes invite you to stroll or fish, unless you’d prefer a botanical walk!

For more info see www.luchon.com

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