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In this environmentally-aware age, there are new considerations when planning your trip to France - the Eurostar probably is the winner London-Paris in terms of both time (city centre to city centre) and lack of hassle. Even on overall cost it probably wins especially if you can book ahead.

But, on a longer journey to the Mediterranean coast and the Cote d’Azur? The dash between rail terminals in Paris (e.g. Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon) can be a significant disincentive for the train and adds time on an already long journey.

Sheila took the journey from London to Antibes (06 Alpes-Maritimes, Provence) by Eurostar and TGV, and here are some of her observations:

We were advised to go 1st class as it was a long journey…. St. Pancras to Antibes, changing at Lille - definitely worth the extra for the wide comfortable seats. Toilets on both the Eurostar and the following TGV were disgusting - but fine on the return journey. Food on Eurostar was good and pleasantly served. The staff were very obliging and efficient. Food on the Lille/Antibes train was just from the buffet car and not at all interesting - just sandwiches and snacks.It seemed that most people brought their own and ate on the journey but, being French, they did this at lunch time - not grazing constantly as the British seem to do.
Even in 1st class the TGV was full, and people tend to anticipate their station and prepare (with huge cases and luggage) several minutes before arrival at the station. The train does not stop for very long.
The train is very fast, but very smooth - it is a long journey so very necessary to have reading matter, ipod, or whatever to pass the time - scenery in the North rather flat, but becoming more interesting as it progresses through to the South.
We were on the top deck on the way out and it was a single decker on the return journey, but not really any noticeable difference except when coming in to a station and people’s heads were below eye level, only the stairs made it more difficult to get the luggage ready by the door when preparing to leave the train.
Despite the horribly early start, I think I’d do the same again rather than the alternative flight from Heathrow.

For example mid-week in late May 2008 you can leave London St Pancras at 07.00 and arrive in Antibes at 17.27 (local time) - a journey time of 9h27m with a 1 hour wait in Lille (59 Nord Nord-Pas-de-Calais) (but no dash across town just a saunter across the platform!). Return fare is £189.00 (£349 First Class).

The Vignerons Independents, the body representing independent winemakers, holds a number of wine fairs (Salons) in Spring and Autumn each year, which are open to the public and give you the opportunity to taste from a wide selection of vineyards from every region of France, meet the winemakers and purchase wines at cellar door prices.

For autumn 2008 the dates are as follows:-

30 Oct - 3 Nov 2008 - Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) - Hall Tony Garnier

7 - 10 Nov 08 - Reims ( 51 Marne, Champagne) - Parc des Expositions

14-17 Nov 08 - Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) - Grand Palais

27 Nov - 1 Dec 08- Paris (75 Paris, Ile de France) - Porte de Versailles

For more info see www.vigneron-independant.com (in French)

If you are visiting Lille, there is a good B&B on the tram route to the city centre - see Alix’s Garden

The annual one day Paris-Roubaix cycle race takes place on Sunday 13 April 2008, and is one of the major professional races in France. Also known as the “Hell of the North” it is a gruelling race, not least because of the cobbled roads which are included - nearly 60km of the 260km course which starts in Compiegne (60 Oise, Picardie) and finishes in Roubaix north of Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais).

As these are racing bikes rather than all-terrain or mountain bikes, so comfortable sadles, thick rugged tyres and dual wheel suspension makes this a real bone- and frame-shaking ride under pressure.

For more info see the official site at www.letour.fr and an enthusiasts’ site at www.lesamisdeparisroubaix.com/

It is inevitable that Northern France is redolent with memories of the two World Wars - but visiting memorials, graveyards and battle sites is not to everyone’s taste. For those who are interested then visits to memorials such as Thiepval, Beaumont Hamel and the Menin Gate in Ypres (just over the border in Belgium) are sobering and thought-provoking ocassions.
However, even if you are not interested, I would recommend a visit to the Canadian War Memorial at Vimy Ridge (62 Pas-de-Calais) - yes it is the site of another battle, but the Canadians have erected a stone memorial which is a thing of rare beauty. On a superb site on the ridge overlooking the rather industrial landscape of Lens and the Douai plain, the memorial is a stunning representation of hope and peace. Although designed in the 1920s to commemorate the 11,000 or so Canadians whose bodies were never recovered and the 50,000 others who died in the First World War it was finished in 1936, ironically just 3 years prior to another bout of bloody carnage,
The monument was refurbished in recent years and only re-opened in April 2007 and is well worth a visit. Several hundred metres away there is a visitor centre, trenches and tunnels to visit if you so wish, and the whole site is staffed by young Canadian student wardens who will answer any questions you may have.

Unfortunately the towns of Vimy and Lens are not particularly exciting for the visitor - but Arras offers an impressive Grand Place (Square) and is a lively place to stay.

You may just have missed the annual Lille Wine Fair (16-19 November 2007) but Lille’s colourful Christmas Market starts on 21 November and runs through until 24 December. This vibrant northern city also features an excellent selection of modetn and stylish shops (Galeries Layfayette, Fnac, plenty of fashion) and the heart of the old town (Vieux Lille) has innumerable interesting shops and boutiques - including food, antiques, gift shops.
There is no shortage of places to eat e.g the extravagant ll’Huitriere for superb but extyravagant fish and seafood. Local resident Alexandra Hudson at le Jardin d’Alix recommends the rue de la Monnaie, the oldest street in Lille for finding somewhere to eat - including l’Assiette du Marché (the market plate) which is housed in the old mint (* gourmet food, and a good deal at 16€ (starters and a main course, or the main course+dessert), but also more refined dishes“).
Nearby is the “la Pâte brisée“ very cheap, which specializes in different hot and cold, sweet and salty tarts and pies. Both places are jammed with Lille people, because the price value is so good.

The chocolate expert is also on rue de la Monnaie near the musem l’Hospice Comtesse - his name is Benoit, and he is listed in all the gourmet guides..
A personal favourite is another fish restaurant, somewhat cheaper than l’Huitriere, but excellent food and service - l’Ecume des Mers, near the Grand Place - or if you are a fan of mussels and want something more bistro style - try Aux Moules in the rue de Bethune.

There is no shortage of places to stay in Lille to suit all pockets, but for a real sense of the place you could try the Jardin d’Alix, a B&B in the suburbs but on the tramway straight into the city centre.

Also until 20th January 2008 there is an exhibition of Chagall’s ceramics at the Roubaix Swimming Pool!

If you missed the Lille wine fair, Paris is the venue for the Independent Wine Makers’ WIne Fair - 22nd -26th November 2007.

Most French autoroutes between major towns and cities are toll motorways, which whilst often offering fast and uncrowded dual-carriageways, can nevertheless add significantly to the cost of a trip through France - e.g over €90 (over £60) on a one-way trip from Calais to Nice (1226km of motorway driving about 760 miles).

However there are significant sections of autoroute which are toll free - most often these are around major towns and Cities (Paris, Bordeaux, Lyon etc).

In the North, the A16 is toll-free from Boulogne (J29) to the Belgian border (J36) via Calais and Dunkerque. The A25 from Dunkerque (J20) to Lille is free, so you can reach Lille from the main Channel ports without paying a toll!. Also all routes from Lille to the Belgian border.
The following autoroutes are toll free (as at September 2007)
A16 (part of the Autoroute des Estuaires (estuaries)) from Boulogne-sur-Mer (J29) to the Belgian border(J36)
A20 (L’Occitane) from Vierzon (J6 junction with A71) to Brive-la-Gaillarde (J53) via Chateauroux, Argenton and Limoges
A25 from Dunkerque (J20 with A16) to Lille
A28 from Abbeville (J1) to Rouen (J14)
A30/A31 (Autoroute de la Vallée de la Fensch) from Thionville (J1) to Toul (J12) via Metz and Nancy
A38 from Dijon (J33) to Pouilly-sur-Auxois (J24 and the junction with the A6)
A63 (Autoroute de la Cote Basque) from Bordeaux to Bellin-Bellet (J20)
A64 (la Pyreneenne) from St Martory (J20) to Muret (J25)
A68 (la Tarnaise) from Monastruc (J3 NE of Toulouse) to Albi (J11) via Gaillac
A75 (la Meridienne) from Clermont-Ferrand (J15) to Pezenas (J59) (except for the Millau Bridge) via Issoire
A77 (Autoroute de l’Arbre (trees)) from Pouilly (J26) to Nevers (J37)
A84 from Caen (J46) to Rennes (J25) via Avranches

Peniche Fantasia in Wambrechies (59 Nord, Nord Pas de Calais) on the outskirts of Lille (see map)

This one offers wood-panelled rooms and air conditioning, and is moored in the centre of the town for easy access by bus into the heart of Lille in about 30 minutes.

The owners.Lucie and Julien, are enthusiastic about the canals and the history and culture of this corner of northern France, and apart from offering a unique opportunity to experience a special night on board the “peniche” will also share with you their knowledge and recommendations of the area.

For more info see www.peniche-fantasia.fr
Peniche Fantasia Au Port de Plaisance, 59118 Wambrechies

T: 06 82 27 92 61

Dunkerque (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) - Gand (Belgium)

for more info click here

Salons des Vins (Wine Fairs) - Vignerons Independants (Independent Wine Makers) 2007.
Open to the public, a small charge gives you access to hundreds of wines and winemakers from all over France. Here you can taste and buy wines, often at cellar door prices - as long as you can carry them. Meet the winemaker, discover new wines - enjoy!

Rennes (35 Ile-et-Villaine, Bretagne) 13-15 April 2007
Lyon (69 Rhône, Rhône-Alpes) 25-29 October 2007
Reims (51 Marne, Champagne-Ardenne) 9-12 November 2007
Lille (59 Nord, Nord Pas-de- Calais)16-19 November 2007
Paris (Porte de Versailles) 22-26 November 2007

The number of budget airline routes to France from the UK is continuing to grow, as is the number of French destinations - no longer restricted to the major cities. This really does open up some of the less well-known parts of France.
The list below shows the extent of the coverage - and this excludes flights to Paris which are available from most local airports. Some flights are seasonal, so please check with the airline for timetables and availability.