Nord Pas de Calais

Dunkerque (62 Pas de Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) manages to brighten up the miserable nothern French winter with its annual Carnival from 23 January to 6 March 2010

The most famous, the nosiest, the most mental, but also the oldest, is the Dunkerque Carnival. For weeks on end, groups called fisherbands take the measure of each other, confront each other with sarabands and songs, disperse and liven up the town, and finally come together in one huge choir to celebrate their sailors, honour Jean Bart, and claim, with body and voice, their herrings thrown from the top of the belfry.
If you’ve never done Carnival here, you’ve never seen a real carnival !

For more info see www.northernfrance-tourism.com
Of course Dunkerque is directly connected from Dover with Norfolkline Ferries – but beware that the port (near Loon-Plage) is some 18km from the town centre

When the Channel Ferry operator Speedferries collapsed last year many people were caught with pre-paid tickets and vouchers which could not be honoured.

;Now the Administrators Ernst & Young are reporting that the proceeds of the sale of assets (including SpeedOne) will not even raise enough money to pay off the Bank who are secured creditors; so there is nothing to be shared with preferential or  unsecured creditors such as ticket holders.

The Bank of Scotland got about £2m back, and Ernst & Young earned over £880,000 for being Administrators.

The only hope for paying customers would appear to be through the credit card companies if you paid by credit card.

Since the collapse of SpeedFerries LD Lines has been developing the Dover – Boulogne route which remains one of my preferred routes into northern France.

Boulogne's port hub

LD Lines Ferries are changing over to a traditional ferry on their Dover-Boulogne cross-channel route which will increase capacity and competition on the short-sea crossings from Dover. Also there is now a new Ferry port at Boulogne which will hopefully be less down-at-heel than the previous landing point. The new terminal is called the Boulogne Hub Port, which remains close to the town centre and provides reasonable access to the A16 and other autoroutes. Additionally passengers can leave their car in a free car park by the terminal and with a short walk across a footbridge into the heart of the town.

From early November 2009 the Norman Spirit will transfer from its current Western Channel Portsmouth – Le Havre route to commence operations on LD Lines’ Dover – Boulogne service, considerably increasing freight and tourist traffic capacity. The high speed catamaran Norman Arrow, which began operating across the Dover Straits in June 2009, will re-locate to the Portsmouth – Le Havre route, where she will begin a six month seasonal operation from Easter to September 2010. Norman Spirit will operate four return sailings daily between Dover and Boulogne and provide a crossing time of one hour 45 minutes. The ship has capacity for 1850 passengers, 700 cars, 110 freight vehicles and the service will also carry coaches and foot passengers.

LD Lines is also offering 10,000 Tickets @£22.50 each way for a car + 4 passengers – a limited number available at this price – so book soon – see www.ldlines.com

Boulogne is a pleasant arrival port – and the town is well worth a visit. Like most ferry ports industry and warehousing tend to dominate the immediate  area, but the more interesting and  attractive parts of the town are close by. The ferry trip provides a good view of the French coast (when the weather is good) and is schedules to take 105 minutes – slightly longer than the Dover-Calais crossing, but being further south compensates if  heading towards Paris, Rouen, Normandy, Picardie or beyond.

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Lille’s Christmas Market officially takes place from 18 November to 30 December 2009 (although the Big Wheel (la Grand’Roue) was still being erected over the weekend of 21/22 Novemberm but the hutted Christmas village.

In the heart of winter, Lille sparkles and glows with “joie de vivre”! With the wave of a magic wand, the city takes on a festive atmosphere and welcomes you to a winter wonderland. On Place Rihour, more than 80 chalets teem with gift ideas, nativity figurines, Christmas decorations and festive food. You can find regional specialities here, and you can also find arts and crafts from Russia, Poland, and Québec, as well as products from Native America. And that’s not to forget the gingerbread and other delicacies which you can take away or eat on the spot with a glass of mulled wine…
On the Main Square, amidst the sumptuous decorations and as Christmas carols fill the air, the Big Wheel turns majestically. Its height of 50 metres ensures guests have a stunning view of the city.

See our other articles Le weekend in…. Lille and Lille’s Christmas celebrations
For more info see www.noel-a-lille.com

If you have time and inclination then it is worth a visit to la Piscine at nearby Roubaix, which is a converted municipal art deco- swimming pool which retains part of the pool as a centre piece, whilst the old changing cubicles hold exhibits. The building houses the Museum of Science and Industry which celebrates the town’s industrial heritage when it was a centre for the textile industry – see www.roubaix-lapiscine.com/

With such easy access from the UK by road or Eurostar Lille is a must to visit all year, and remains one of my favourite winter weekends. The combination of modern shopping malls and the nearby Vieux Lille (old town) offer something for everyone,

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

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Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

Most of us hit the autoroute as soon as landing (or de-training) in Calais and heading South (or East), the most frequent diversion being for shopping in one of the Hypermarkets or the Cité Europe complex at Coquelles.

However, there are other reasons to stop in the local areanewly-opened Calais Lace Museum (Cité Internationale de la dentelle et de la mode de Calais) which is a must see. Located in an original lace factory building, visitors can see original working Victorian lace machines and a stunning array of exhibits including a display of original lace clothes and fashion through the centuries. At the final gallery, visitors can use a special camera, which shows themselves dressed in any of the museum’s lace clothes – in 3D.

Just a 10 minute drive from Calais, the quaint, reconstructed Saint-Joseph Village offers a glimpse of what life was like in rural France between 1900 and 1950. Complete with a garage, school, blacksmith’s forge, sawmill and restaurant offering local recipes, this village is a unique learning experience for any child.

Seafrance Ferries are offering a 50% reduction for family entry to both attractions until 20 September 2009:-

Nine tourist attractions in the Calais area are giving SeaFrance customers 50% off family entry (two adults and up to three kids). Alternatively, SeaFrance customers can take advantage of a 20% discount on individual tickets. All customers need to do is show their SeaFrance car lane hangers when they turn up at an attraction- see www.seafrance.com

Other local attractions in or near Calais include:-
# Calais Lighthouse – 19th Century Lighthouse with great views over Calais and the English Channel
# Guines Clock Tower
# Eurolac & Naviboat – a leisure park with lake and self-drive boats around the local canal network
# Musée 39-45 - museum of the 1939-1945 War
# The Blockhaus at Eperlecques – part of the WWII preparations for invading England.
# Calais War Museum (WWII)
# Musée du Mur de l’Atlantique – a museum in a WWII bunker focussing on the contruction of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall

One of my personal favourites is the City Hall with its imposing belfry and Rodin’s sculpture of the “Burghers of Calais”
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