Midi Pyrenees

From 1 July 2009 the French Government has lowered VAT (or TVA in France) on Restaurant meals  from 19.6% to 5.5% in a bid to stimulate a sluggish market, which should result in some noticeable savings for diners.

This is welcome as a good meal out in France can be a real treat - and often very much better value than most UK eateries.

However, beware that VAT is not reduced on wine, which remains at 19.6% - higher than the UK (currently 15%) but without the UK’s punitive excise duty rates.

Of many favourite restaurants in France, there is one in the Lot département which remains a cherished memory for me - Le Gindreau at St Medard-Catus (46, Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) - a glorious meal of local specialities, good wine, excellent service and a table on the terrace with views over the quiet local countryside - and 3 hours for lunch!

Within easy travelling distance of Cahors and with an impressive list of Cahors and other wines.

From 20 July to 2 August 2009 there is an opportunity to improve your photography in one of the most photogenic and beautiful areas of France - the Aveyron and the upper reaches of the Lot Valley.
A variety of courses are available including an “Introduction to Photography” “A photographic walk at Saint Geniez d’Olt , and a special course on Portrait photography.
For more info see www.itinerancesphoto.org
For more info on the area and some wonderful gites for a stay see http://frenchduck.com/

The Basque city of Bayonne holds its annual Festival from 29 July to 2 August 2009.

During the first week of August Bayonne is ablaze in red & white with everyone dressed in the traditional white shirts and trousers and red neckerchiefs and sashes. The festival opens on the Wednesday night at 10p.m. in the town Hall square. The mythical King Leon of Bayonne appears on the balcony and celebrates his return by throwing the symbolic keys of the town to the crowd. Music, shouts and colours invade the town centre. Les Fêtes de Bayonne is the most important moment of the year for the inhabitants…no one would miss it !!!
If you come to the Festival, you’ll enjoy the incredible atmosphere and enthusiasm, running of the young bulls, bullfights, bandas (music bands) in the streets …

For more info see www.fetes.bayonne.fr/

The Lot departement (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) in South West France highlights its Gardens for the weekend of 5-7 June 2007 under the banner of “Rendezvous in the gardens”

There are events throughout the department, including in Cahors’s “June Gardens” which includes guided and unguided tours through a dozen or so private gardens in the city including a night tour  - just pick up a map from the Tourist Office. -see http://effeuillage.cahors.free.fr/

Similar events are taking place across France - see www.rendezvousauxjardins.culture.fr

The tiny village of Albas (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) in the Lot Valley west of Cahors flings open its cellar doors on 23 May 2009 to celebrate the local Cahors wines  - “Fresh air in our cellars” or “Le bon air dans les caves” is the by-line. The local wine producers offer samples of their wines plus music, dancing, local food tasting (e.g. foie gras and local cheeses)  and  a banquet in the square . Follow the minor road on the south bank of the river.

Cahors AOC wines are made predominantly from the Malbec grape (locally known as Auxerrois) and although the wine has in the past tended to be a bit tough and tannic, modern techniques and approaches now produce much fruitier and more accessible styles. This would be a great opportunity to try some of these wines in a festive atmosphere - and white and rose wines (vins de pays) are also available from some producers.

One local producer known to us is Chateau Eugenie just east of the village where the Couture family produce a wide range of excellent Cahors wines, demonstrating the differences in the local terroir from the river valley to the top of the Causse (moorland)

See our archives about Cahors wines at www,frenchduck.co.uk

For more info see www.feteduvin-cahors.fr/

Part of our series featuring places to stay and explore for a weekend or longer with recommendations on where to stay, eat, visit etc – recommendations from personal knowledge of people who know the local area well.

Why Entraygues-sur-Truyere? Entraygues-sur-Truyere is a picturesque riverside village, where two rivers meet, the Lot River and the Truyere.  Entraygues was founded in the 10th century and its fortified castle was built between 1278-1290.  Entraygues is located in an area with 10 of the, “The Most Beautiful Villages in France,” more than any othe region! (and rightly so! (Ed))

Where to stay: Sweet French Cottages,enchanting stone cottages for rent in the Lot Valley, Southwest France

Nearest Town: Entraygues-sur-Truyere, 12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees

Where to eat (recommended by Raine Heron of Sweet French Cottages): Le Mejanessere, a beautiful rustic restaurant with stunning views. Also a vineyard and an organic farm.  Food is farm fresh and set menus often feature roasted pig, sausage in walnut oil, potatoes with wild mushrooms, green salad with edible flowers and herbs and dessert.  Delicious bread baked on premises.  Wonderful apéritif menu and local wines from vineyard.  Mostly open during high season (some mid season hours).

Where to eat (gourmet): Auberge du Fel.  Delicious, fresh, often regional food beautifully presented.  The Executive Chef, Mme Elisabeth Albespy, is the Mayor’s wife and the Sous Chef is their son, Mathieu.  The Mayor is often on hand to serve up their traditional as well as inventive dishes, including a vegetarian prix fixe menu.

Where to eat (value for money): La Casa.  Oven-fired thin crust pizza, pasta dishes and fresh salads.  Make your own pizza (our favourite is goat cheese, chestnuts and fresh tomatoes) or try the duck and Roquefort pizza, among many others on the menu.  Good table wine and tasty desserts.

Local food: Aubrac beef, duck, lamb, trout, foie gras, charcuterie, aligot (whipped potatoes with cheese), truffade, cabecou, fouace, honey, walnut oil, fresh chestnuts as well as chestnut vinegar, flour and chestnut butter, farcous, wild mushrooms

Local wine: Entraygues– Le Fel wine, which has recently had a come uppance when one of our Entraygues wines made it s way onto the menu at Michel Bras, a regional restaurant which ranks one of the top ten restaurants in the world.  There are also several local aperitifs including “Pelou,” consisting of chestnut liqueur and local white wine and “Rascalou,” consisting of walnut liqueur and local white wine.  Both are wonderful.

Local markets: Farmer’s Markets are held every Friday morning throughout the year.  In high season, there are two Farmer’s Markets, on both Tuesday and Friday mornings, and a local producer’s market (Marche des Producteurs de Pays) on Wednesday evenings with banquet style dining and live music.  All of the markets are held in the village square or along the river in Entraygues.

Must see: Poterie du Don, a museum-quality contemporary ceramic center in an architecturally-significant building.  Ceramics include traditional salt glaze tableware and ceramic creations by the gallery owner, Suzy Atkins, to ceramic sculpture and flatworks by many well-known European ceramic artists.

A bit of culture?: Since the  area is unspoiled and rather timeless, you definitely feel immersed in the French culture on a daily basis, particularly if you frequent the butcher, the baker, Farmer’s Market and mill around the villages.  With regard to museums, one that stands out is the Musee Fenaille in Rodez with the oldest and largest collection of statues-menhirs in France (think small, carved Stone Henge).

Shopping?: There are charming shops in Entraygues, as well as many lovely shops and cafes on pedestrian-only streets in the old town section of nearby Aurillac.

Somewhere for a walk? – There are 10 “Petites Randonrres” (small walking paths) in Entraygues totaling more than 100 km.  There are also longer walks, some taking 2-3 days, and more than 250 km of trails in the area.  There is also a 30-45 minute historic walk through the medieval streets of Entraygues, guided by sign posts.

Something for the kids? – There is kayaing, canoeing, river rafting and horseback riding in Entraygues, as well as several animal parks and farms open to the public in surrounding areas.  Also, the Micropolis (insect) museum and the Millau Viaduc (the highest bridge in the world) is not far from us.

Getting there?:– Driving across France is always a scenic pleasure.  By air, our nearest airport is Rodez-Marcillac Airport (only a short 1-hour flight from Paris) Ryanair fly from Stansted to Rodez.

Other airports in the area include Toulouse International Airport, Montpellier Airport and Limoges Airport.  Trains arrive at either Aurillac or Rodez stations

Getting around:– Buses and taxis are availabie in town, and the area is frequented by cyclists (including the Tour de France!).  There are train stations in both Aurillac and Rodez - and tickets direct from the UK can be booked through Rail Europe

When to come?:– There are festivals every weekend in mid and high seasons in Entraygues or nearby villages.  The better known festivals, however, are “Les Mediaevales” (Medieval Days) on 12 and 13 Sepetember 2009 featuring jugglers, musicians, medieval costumes, banquet-style lunch, wine, beer and several artisan booths. “Fete des Champignons” (Mushroom Festival) is held the last weekend in September and features folkloric museum, dancing, costumes, lunch and everything mushroom.  “Foire de la Chataigne” (Chestnut Fair) will be held on 24 and 25 October 2009 and is large festival with music, food, wine and everything chestnut.

For a longer stay?:– Take a day trip (and perhaps, stay one night) in Cahors or Gaillac or Cordes sur Ciel, or just take cat naps, go for walks down to the river or next to the local vineyards, through the historic villages, or just sit on the terrace while reading a good book and sipping wine, taking in the fresh air, views and sound of the flowing river.

Recommendations kindly supplied by Rain Heron at Sweet French Cottages

For more info on the local area see the local tourist office website