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The Telegraph(1 March 2008) offers a list of “50 Spring Breaks” which includes the idea of staying in a modern, well-equipped treehouse in southern Normandy
In the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional du Perche, in southern Normandy, Perché dans le Perche is a treehouse with two bedrooms, a shower, internet access and panoramic views of the countryside.
Situated in the Orne (61 Normandie) not far from Le Mans (72 Sarthe, Pays de la Loire), the Regional Park covers an area of southern Normandie and is a great area for rambling, horse riding and exploring the gentle unspoilt countryside - see www.le-perche.org. For more info on the treehouse see www.perchedansleperche.com
Also included in the Telegraph’s list is www.campbiche.com in deepest South West France on the edge of “le Quercy Blanc” near the quiet but delightful bastide village of Lauzerte (82 Tarn et Garonne), not far from Cahors, Agen and Montauban. I’m not sure if a glass of wine fits with a health cure, but you have the vineyards of Cahors, Buzet and Fronton and Coteaux du Quercy within easy reach. Then there’s duck, goose, foie gras…..
Stressed? Feeling fat? Try the new boot camp à la francaise: Camp Biche (020 7617 7253, www.campbiche.com), in Lauzerte, Tarn-et-Garonne. Eight hours of exercise – hiking, workouts, Pilates – by day, good food by night. About £2,300 per person a week.
In the Guardian 01 March 08 the Auberge des Liards in the Auvergne (Egliseneuve des Liards, 63 Puy-de-Dome, Auvergne) is one of 10 eco-friendly places to stay (as is the NormandyTree House above)
The property - part of a smallholding - is on the slopes of Puy de Liards, an extinct volcano on the outskirts of the village of Égliseneuve des Liards. The owners, Dutch couple Astrid Ursem and Walter Verhoeve, have created the guesthouse from two ruined farm buildings. The main house has two guest rooms, and a nearby building contains two “ecological” rooms constructed with natural and traditional materials. Insulation is provided by a mix of hemp, chalk, loam and hay - as well as soil collected from molehills, which they use to insulate the floor. The rooms are simply decorated, with natural colours and wooden furniture. Guests are provided with eco-friendly soap, there are low-energy lights and household cleaning products are biodegradable.
There are a number of special offers around which may be of interest in the runup to Easter, only a few weeks away.
There’s 15% off bookings for any of the “Sweet French Cottages” in the Aveyron (Midi Pyrenees) if you book by 15 April 08 - see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Brittany Ferries has a number of offers including 10% off 2008 Self-catering holidays booked by 15th March 08 - see www.brittany-ferries.co.uk
SpeedFerries is offering 20% off all 2008 bookings for a limited period - including their already low price multi-trip tickets - see www.speedferries.com
Waitrose has £10 off and free delivery on selected mixed cases of Classic French wines until 5 March 08 - see www.frenchduck.com
BBC2’s final of MasterChef 2008 (Thursday 28 Feb 2008) takes the finalists to work in some of France’s best restaurants.
The other challenges for the 3 finalists have included cooking at the London Hilton for a group of Professional Chefs with 17 Michelin stars between them, and cooking for the Army in the heat and humidity of Belize with very basic army equipment. Working in a French Michelin-starred restaurant will be the final challenge!
The restaurants and chefs chosen are recognised as amongst the best in the world, with exacting standards and extraordinary quality food:-
Interesting that 2 of these top restaurants are not in Paris but deep in the French countryside - very provincial and some distance from major centres of population - the French will travel long distances for a good meal!
If you are interested in French cuisine, have a read of Michael Booth’s entertaining book Sacre Cordon Bleu
Booth shares with us the secrets of his training at Le Cordon Bleu and of French cooking itself, explaining how to make the perfect sauce; the secret of great stocks; how to win a fight with a lobster; and how to avoid maiming yourself while cleaning your knives. He explores how France rose to culinary pre-eminence and asks if Paris still deserves its reputation as the culinary capital of the world. Following both traumas and unexpected triumphs at school, Booth embarks on the ultimate chef’s challenge, he goes to work at the Michelin-starred Paris restaurant of the most famous chef in France, Joel Robuchon.
You’ll learn a lot about the French and their approach to food.
The Aude département (11 Languedoc-Roussillon) straddles the Autouroute des Deux Mers (A62) as it heads east from Narbonne towards Toulouse and eventually Bordeaux. The autoroute follows the flattish valley bottom which has for years formed a major transit route, most famously and spectacutlarly with the Canal du Midi, followed by the railway and then the A61 motorway. To the north lies Minervois and to the south is Corbières AC - this is my sort of wine - rich and complex, great body from the Grenache grape and with enough tannin and fruit to make it a wine to savour.
My favourite wine of the region has to be the Grande Cuvée de Castelmaure - because it is a really good wine, but also because we drank it with a superb Cassoulet in a very idiosyncratic restaurant in the heart of the old medieval city of Carcassonne - a memorable ocassion.
We imported this wine for the last few years of our Allez Vins! wine importing business, despite it coming from a Co-operative cellar - so often a recipe for mediocre wines, especially in the south of France. Sure, the winery is rustic, but the approach and the wine is extraordinarily good - in part because it is a small community of vignerons, but also because they have an excellent winemaker who has ensured that quality is the first priority. It’s worth a visit up narrow twisting lanes south of Durban and nearly in Fitou country - a ruggedly beautiful landscape.
Unlike New World wineries, fancy marketing has never been the strong point of the Midi winemakers. However, what they do employ is a lot of words extolling the virtues and mysteries of the local soil, the elusive “terroir”, the traditions and the horny handed skill of the sons of the soil. They have a way of waxing lyrical about what they do which is quite unlike British understatement. Hence my surprise to find that the Castelmaure winery has a new, and very lyrical website - it tells you little of significant interest, but it does it with real flair!
As anyone who has ever got his fingers sticky in the fruity blood of the Grenache grape under the blazing sun of Castelmaure knows full well: wine must have the taste of what it is, its terroir. A taste that rings true. A deep, fundamental, earthy truth that all the frills of vinification and oenology will never manage to replace. But don’t see in that a plea for some obscurantism, for some Virgilian naivety, but wine is, and must remain the child of its earth. Likewise, its sincerity, its grandeur too, pass through the callous hand of the grape-picker, hard work and the respect for a job well done. Wine is a child of the soil and the sweat of men. The grape-harvest, which gushes forth each year from the same barrel as all the old human rituals, betrays the ambiguity of the links that unite Man and Nature. Struggle and love. On the one hand, the Ancients who called the vineyards the “galleys” because of the slope, the stones, and the climate… On the other hand, this vine-grower who secretly talks tenderly to his old vine stocks to congratulate them, to thank them … It is true that here, in Castelmaure, things have changed considerably. The men have changed. The impetus came at the beginning of the eighties. Under the leadership of Patrick de Marien, the chairman, and of Bernard Pueyo, the director, the 70 members of the village old co-op began by asking themselves about their vines : which terroirs? Which varieties? This led them to upgrade the majority of their vines by replacing certain poorly-suited Carignans with Syrahs, Grenaches and, more recently, with Mourvèdres.
It is so French, and who can blame them when they make such great wines.
For more on Castelmaure see www.castelmaure.com
For a map and more info on Corbières see www.frenchduck.co.uk
The wines of Castelmaure are available in the UK from www.thewinesociety.com
Late November/early December the Vignerons Independants (independent winemakers) hold a series of public wine fairs, most notably in Lyon, Reims, Lille and Paris where you can taste a seemingly mind- and tongue-boggling array of wines from all over France. The exhibitors are mainly small independent winemakers (no co-operatives, negociants or multi-nationals) who are keen to show off their wines.
In Lille alone, there were over 460 stands covering the whole of France and Corsica, and for the wine-enthusiast it really is a great opportunity to discover new wines.
The problem is that you cannot physically taste more than a small fraction of those wines on offer, so a bit of pre-planning or a good helping of serendipity is required.
I usually go with a few friends, and our strategy is to split up for the first couple of hours and then meet up to compare notes and share “discoveries”. So the following mix of old favourites and new wines to watch is not a scientific analysis of all that is available, but a personal selection from those that I did visit::-
Mas de Martin, Coteaux du Languedoc AC
Here Christian Mocci makes some excellent and very drinkable wines which he blesses with mythical names - Ultreia and Cincarca. These are really well-structured blends of Syrah and Grenache (plus Mourvedre for the Ultreia) but with juicy red fruits predominating. Regrettably not available in the UK as yet, but hopefully someone will start importing them, especially as they have won two “Coups de Coeur” in the Guide Hachette and a bronze in the Decanter World Wine Awards 2007. See www.premiumwanadoo.com/masdemartin The Domaine also offers self-catering accommodation - see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Domaine de Cauhapé. Jurancon AC and Jurancon Sec AC
I am a great fan of good Jurancon wines from the foothills of the Pyrenees. These idiosyncratic wines are primarily based on Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu, and range from steely dry (Sec) through to gloriously rich dessert wines. Domaine de Cauhapé produces some of the very best, and this year Henri Ramonteau, the owner was present to show his stylish wines. I personally prefer the dry wines, although I will confess that his dessert cuvee Quintessence du Petit Manseng is a really exceptional wine.
Of the dry whites I like them all for the wonderful combination of crisp, delicate acidity with exotic fruit flavours. Even the names of his cuvées are enticing - Chant des Vignes (song of the vines), Ballet d’Octobre and Symphonie de Novembre (from the late harvesting), la Canopée: “The aroma has a rare complexity, combining hazelnuts and quince paste with smoky notes and mineral characters. The palate is extremely aromatic - an explosion of fruits and spices.” For more on the Domaine see www.cauhape.com. UK stockists for Domaine de Cauhapé include Arthur Rackham
Domaine Octavie, Touraine and Touraine Sauvignon AC
An old favourite, but I was really impressed with even their basic cuvée of Touraine Sauvignon 2006 - good clean crisp, fragrant Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire - and at just €5.00 at the stand and vineyard this is incredible value - and such nice people. For more info see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Available in the UK from Eton Vintners and others
Chateau Ricardelle, Coteaux du Languedoc, la Clape AC Back to the Languedoc for the other star of my tasting - the Cuvée Closablières from this fine vineyard near the coast near Narbonne. “La Clape” is a rocky outcrop between Narbonne and the Mediterranean and this slope on the North East side of the outcrop is able to produce wines of great intensity probably due to low rainfall and cooling sea breezes. This wine is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan aged in oak for 12 months.
This wine is stocked by Pic Wines
This chateau also offers self-catering accommodation amongst the vines! For more info see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Overall I still think that the Languedoc continues to improve in terms of quality and value for money - by contrast the Rhône wines were a little disappointing - a personal view based only on a fairly random selection of wines available in Lille.
Cotes de St Mont VDQS and Madiran AC celebrate significant anniversaries in 2007 – 25 years for St Mont and 100 years for Madiran. These anniversaries coincide with the recent interest in the Tannat grape for its health-giving properties. The Plaimont Co-operative has been key to the development of these appellations.
The French Paradox in South-West France is based on a unique combination of terroir, growing practices and grape varieties. In concrete terms:
• a growing process, described in the winegrower’s production specifications set up some 30 years ago - disbudding, leaf plucking, yield control through cluster thinning, health status control, etc. -, which enables the grapes to reach perfect maturity,
• “privileged” grapes: the grapes growing in the Pyrenean area have the advantage of late bud break and flowering. They are thus protected from bad weather in Spring, frost and poor berry set, and enjoy cool nights and sunny days during late Summer, which gives rise to the particular maturity that is specific to the region. Grape harvesting is left until late in September,
• in-depth knowledge of plot soils.Also associated are traditional winemaking methods:
• beginning of vinification through slow fermentation, which promotes extraction during the non-alcoholic phase (pre-fermentation maceration under controlled temperature),
• traditional vinification with temperature control and long maceration,
• maturation on lees with controlled aeration (such wines require much oxygen).The current techniques respect and reinforce these principles of traditional winemaking.
Within the framework of his work, Professor Roger Corder has analysed many wines from around the world. The results are to be found in his book The Wine Diet
.
Among the wines analysed in this region, the following have been awarded an “excellent standard” rating:
• St-Mont, Château de Sabazan, Château de St-Go, Château du Bascou, Le Faîte.
• The Plaimont producers’ Madiran Plénitude
• Madiran Château de Crouseilles and Château d’Arricau-Bordes from the Crouseilles wine co-operative.
Dr Roger Corder has a new book coming out in September 2007 – The Red Wine Diet
Plaimont wines in the UK are stocked by (amongst others) the Wine Society – the Chateau de Sabazan Cotes de St Mont VDQS has been a favourite of mine – a good oaked tannat red, but with a touch more fruit than many Madirans “A gorgeous ripe tasting red from Gascony” (£9.50)
The Independent (25 Aug 07) has a short guide to Toulouse (32 Haut-Garonne) by Simon Calder. By far the largest city in the Midi-Pyrenees it is a mix of ancient and very modern, French and Arab.
For me it is a great departure point for the whole of the South and South West – the Pyrenees, Canal du Midi, the vineyards of Gaillac and Fronton and to the east the splendours of Carcassonne. It has never felt an “intimate” destination like Cahors or St Emilion, but it does have an enviously varied cultural life and works well as a weekend destination.
One highlight for me has to be the Marche des Carmes, which is a real treasure trove of the very best of the produce of the southwest – duck, goose, foie gras, cassoulet……
The Marché des Carmes abounds with local produce: bread, fruit, vegetables and poultry (including vast quantities of foie gras de canard). It opens 8am-5pm daily except Sunday. Locals may suggest you buy crystallised violets from a confectioner; the city’s link to the flower began when Napoleon’s soldiers brought it back from Italy.
The picture above is of the Capitole in the heart of the city – now the home of the Town Hall and the Théâtre National du Capitole, this building is remarkable for its façade with its eight pink marble columns.
The grape harvest began early in 2007, on 2 August grapes were harvested in Rombeau, Rivesaltes (Pyrennées Orientales) as reported on Europe1
This is the second time in less than 10 years that such an early harvest has happened in this region, the previous occasion being on 3 August 1999, one day later than this year. A mild spring and a rainy month of May accelerated the maturing process. According to first indications, Muscat 2007 shows an equivalent of 12% alcohol content with a sweet and aromatic nature. Producers have commented that this will allow them to make a fairly fresh white wine this year.
Rivesaltes signature wine is the Muscat de Rivesaltes AC, a Vin Doux Naturel (sweet dessert wine made by stopping the conversion of some of the sugars into alcohol by adding spirit alcohol to stop fermentation), which can be delightfully fragrant and perfumed oozing the grapey taste of the Muscat à Petit Grains grape (literally small grapes). Avoid cheaper versions though, which can be over-syrupy to my taste.
Also be careful not to confuse the Muscat de Rivesaltes AC with Rivesaltes AC which can be quite different. Muscat de Rivesaltes AC can only be made as a sweet white wine from Muscat à Petit Grains and/or Muscat d’Alexandria grapes.
Rovesaltes AC can be made from a wider variety of grapes - hence producing a wider range of styles: Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Maccabeo, Malvoisie,and the two Muscats - producing wines varying in colour from pale yellow to deep gold, and from pale rosé to chocolate or crimson.
One of the best producers is Domaine CAZES, who also produce Côtes de Roussillon and Vin de Pays d’Oc wines - see www.cazes-rivesaltes.com
Winestore.co.uk in Perthshire stock Muscat de Rivesaltes AC from Domaine Cazes.
Individual Wines in Oxford stock a Rivesaltes AC from Domaine Cazes “100% Grenache Blanc sourced from 50 to 55 year old vines that produce a miserly 20hl/ha. Traditional addition of grape spirit at the beginning of fermentation to increase alcohol and maintain natural sugars, then the wine is matured for 22 years in seasoned oak casks. Only 1000 cases made annually.” (£22.90 a bottle)
For more news on Muscat wines and the Muscats du Monde competition see www.spittoon.biz
I have enthused about the wines of Gascony for some time, despite the fact that they have tended to remain somewhat unknown and certainly under-rated. So I was delighted to see Jonathan Ray in the Telegraph (04 Aug 07) writing about this area and its wines, and focussing on 2 producers which I have featured before on these pages and on Allez Viins!
Somewhat against the trend, the area is somewhat dominated by 2 larger -scale enterprises, which rather buck the easy stereotype that often equates big size with mass-produced, bland wines to satisfy undemanding palates.
The wines from this part of south-west France are becoming increasingly popular, thanks in no small part to two contrasting producers: the family-owned Domaine de Tariquet near Eauze and the co-operative Producteurs Plaimont, based in and around Madiran and Saint Mont.
Allez Vins! imported the wines of Plaimont for many years, as they produce excellent Vins de Pays (Colombard) and the Côtes de St Mont VDQS red, white and rosé wines – under the inspired direction of André Dubosc. Unlike other co-operatives at the time (late 80s/early 90s) they focussed on quality rather than quantity, and allowed themselves to be led and managed, rather than trying to keep every grower happy.
Their robust Madiran AC (Tannat) and the sweet Pacherenc du Vic Bilh AC (Gros and Petit Manseng) are also worth trying.
Only a week or so ago we looked at Domaine du Tariquet where Yves Grassa and his family are producing some stunning little wines – full of lively fruit and characted.
There is a well-established network of local and highspeed intercity trains in France, and of course France is justly proud of its impressive high speed train services - TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse).
However there are a number of preserved “tourist” railway lines, which whilst they may at first seem to be for the railway enthusiast, do really offer some great opportunities to view parts of the French landscape from quite a unique (and usually leisurely) perspective.
Some of the best include:-
le Chemin de Fer de la Baie de la Somme in Picardie, running around the bay of the Somme near Abbeville on the Channel coast (steam and diesel)
Chemin de Fer de Provence route which runs from Nice up to DIgne (04 Alpes, Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur) in Provence through stunning scenery back from the Mediterranean coast - the full journey takes 3½hours each way but you can get off at numerous intermediate stations - at weekends some journeys may be with a steam engine (Train à Vapeur).
Chemin de Fer de Vallée de l’Ouche in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, northwest of Beaune (31 Côte d’Or, Burgundy)
Chemin de Fer de la Mure south of Grenoble, runs from St-Georges-de-Commiers (38 Isèe, Rhône-Alpes) to la Mure using vintage electric engines through some dramatic scenery.
Chemin de Fer du Vivarais in the Ardeche, running from Lamastre (07 Ardeche, Rhône-Alpes) to Tournon along the valley of the River Doux - mainly steam with some vintage diesels.
Chemin de fer Touristique du Haut-Quercy “Le Truffadou” - steam and diesel on a strecth of track in and near Martel (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees)
Train Touristique de l’Albret runs on an old SNCF line from Nerac (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) to Mezin on a tourist train - about 90 minutes running from April to October.
On a different level altogether, SNCF (French National Railways) is rightly proud of its recent world record for a train at 574.8 kilometres per hour (about 360 mph) - so much so that you can see video footage of the record run at www.record2007.com/site/index_en.php - dramatically produced. However, the new trains which are now running on the TGVEst Europeen to Strasbourg, Luxembourg and all points east will work at a mere 200mph!
