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Most French autoroutes between major towns and cities are toll motorways, which whilst often offering fast and uncrowded dual-carriageways, can nevertheless add significantly to the cost of a trip through France - e.g over €90 (over £60) on a one-way trip from Calais to Nice (1226km of motorway driving about 760 miles).

However there are significant sections of autoroute which are toll free - most often these are around major towns and Cities (Paris, Bordeaux, Lyon etc).

In the North, the A16 is toll-free from Boulogne (J29) to the Belgian border (J36) via Calais and Dunkerque. The A25 from Dunkerque (J20) to Lille is free, so you can reach Lille from the main Channel ports without paying a toll!. Also all routes from Lille to the Belgian border.
The following autoroutes are toll free (as at September 2007)
A16 (part of the Autoroute des Estuaires (estuaries)) from Boulogne-sur-Mer (J29) to the Belgian border(J36)
A20 (L’Occitane) from Vierzon (J6 junction with A71) to Brive-la-Gaillarde (J53) via Chateauroux, Argenton and Limoges
A25 from Dunkerque (J20 with A16) to Lille
A28 from Abbeville (J1) to Rouen (J14)
A30/A31 (Autoroute de la Vallée de la Fensch) from Thionville (J1) to Toul (J12) via Metz and Nancy
A38 from Dijon (J33) to Pouilly-sur-Auxois (J24 and the junction with the A6)
A63 (Autoroute de la Cote Basque) from Bordeaux to Bellin-Bellet (J20)
A64 (la Pyreneenne) from St Martory (J20) to Muret (J25)
A68 (la Tarnaise) from Monastruc (J3 NE of Toulouse) to Albi (J11) via Gaillac
A75 (la Meridienne) from Clermont-Ferrand (J15) to Pezenas (J59) (except for the Millau Bridge) via Issoire
A77 (Autoroute de l’Arbre (trees)) from Pouilly (J26) to Nevers (J37)
A84 from Caen (J46) to Rennes (J25) via Avranches

Our tastes in wine tend to be quite individual, and I always seek out those wines which stand out from the bland, branded crowd so often presented on supermarket shelves.

Hence my eyes sparkle a little when I find a wine merchant stocking something really interesting and different – one such recent discovery being Martlet Wines – as they stock one of my more obscure favourites:-

DOMAINE DES HUARDS, Cour-Cheverny AC Cuvée Francois 1er 2002, Romorantin £ 8.25 The little known Romorantin grape is now exclusive to Cour-Cheverny. A favourite of Leonardo de Vinci, it produces a very individual wine. Dry with subtle fruits and a slightly “sherried” flavour.

This was one of the wines we imported at ALLEZ VINS! from Michel Gendrier at Cheverny (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) near Blois on the Loire. Made from old vine Romorantin grapes this is very dry and aromatic – and perhaps a bit of an acquired taste. Michel does also produce more approachable whites – such as the Cheverny AC Blanc, a delightful blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Small quantities, and small demand – few customers had ever heard of it, so most sales were at tastings where it was either raved about or dismissed depending on your palate.

So good to find another adventurous wine merchant – Martlet Wines also stocks a range of other top notch French wines – such as the wines of Mas de la Serranne in the Languedoc.

For more on Domaine des Huards see http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/huards.html

2000 candles will illuminate the magnificent Renaissance chateau and gardens at Villandry (37, Indre-et-Loire, Centre) west of Tours in the Loire Valley - culminating with a magnificent firework display.

See www.chateauvillandry.com/

The number of budget airline routes to France from the UK is continuing to grow, as is the number of French destinations - no longer restricted to the major cities. This really does open up some of the less well-known parts of France.
The list below shows the extent of the coverage - and this excludes flights to Paris which are available from most local airports. Some flights are seasonal, so please check with the airline for timetables and availability.

Le Canard au Parapluie Rouge, or the “Duck with red umbrella” has a good start with a memorable name for a B&B - sounds a bit more exciting than the Hotel de la Gare (Station Hotel) which was its original name.
Situated south of Argenton-sur-Creuse (36 Indre, Centre -see map) just off the A20 autoroute about 200 miles south of Paris, this could make an ideal stop-over en route to or from the Dordogne, Lot and Toulouse - and tends to be one of those areas that many of us hurtle through (especially with the new A20 Autoroute “l’Occitaine”) on our way south or north.
Argenton-sur-Creuse is known as the “Venice of the Berry” (a former province of Central France) is a delightful spot on the River Creuse with medieval streets and chateau in the middle of an unspoilt area of France.The quiet and pretty small village of Celon is a few kilometres south.
“Le Canard au Parapluie Rouge is a lovely period country home situated on three and half acres of grounds and gardens. …. Now the property has been completely updated with all modern conveniences and offers several en-suite bedrooms. You will find the style of Le Canard a delightful mix of eclectic furnishings from around the world creating a very cozy & welcoming ambiance.”
For more info see www.lecanardbandb.com.

Michel and Jocelyne Gendrier at Domaine des Huards are great enthusiasts for these wines - elegant and richly flavoured. Their reputation has spread beyond the local region to Paris - and every weekend you’ll find Parisiens at the domaine, having travelled down the autoroute just to stock up on these wines.
You can be assured of a warm welcome at the domaine (see map). The Gendrier family have owned the domaine since 1846. In 1950 4 hectares of vines were cutlivated, mostly of the the white Romorantin grape. Today the domaine covers 32 hectares and produces 170,000 bottles of wine annually. The soil is predominantly clay and chalk with some areas more sandy.
The Gendriers show a constant concern for the environment, avoiding the use of synthetic products for treating the vines and banning weedkillers and chemical fertilisers. In many ways this is a return to the way it was done 50 years ago, working the soil to conserve the natural potential of the different soils and microbiological diversity of the vineyard.
Michel et Jocelyne Gendrier at Domaine des Huards
41700 Cour-Cheverny (see map)
T:00 33 254 79 97 90
F: 00 33 25479 26 82
E: infos@gendrier.com www.gendrier.com/

Cheverny Blanc AC Domaine des Huards 2001
A delightful and successful blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay - great grassy crispness from the Sauvignon augmented by the rich smoothness of the Chardonnay. Made from 20+ year old vines combining gooseberry, elderflower, grassy Sauvignon fruit with lime blossom floral tones. Ripe fruit with fresh acidity.
2** stars in the Guide Hachette des Vins de France 2007
Reviewed in ANDYS SCRIBBLINGS: “A superbly interesting aroma - very floral with a gravel path edge. These aromas are duplicated on the medium-bodied palate. The Chardonnay component supplies a peachy quality with the cool climate origins revealing themselves in the high/crisp acidity. Scribblings Rating - 88/100″

Cour Cheverny AC Cuvée Francois I Domaine des Huards 2001
Old Vine Romorantin. Unique in France this appellation uses only the ROMORANTIN Grape. This cuvée is produced from vines aged over 50 years old - the earliest planted in 1922! Hence the yields are low and this lends enhanced concentration to the wine. It has a pure and very fresh refined bouquet. Big in the mouth, with tones of lime, butter and fresh walnuts! It is long lasting in the mouth On harvesting one-third of the wine is left in contact with the skins for 15 hours to extract tannin and minerals. After fermentation the wine is left on some of the lees for 5 months and bottled without filtration.”exotic with spice, apricot, ginger, lychee and grapefruit zest. Tangy and long in the mouth with a creamy texture amd a spicy,floral, biscuity finish.”
Recommended in the Guide Hachette des Vins de France 2007.
Reviewed in ANDYS SCRIBBLINGS: “A good lightly brushed golden hue with a really interesting aroma. The palate is quite taught and minerally - austere almost, but there is a nice weight and some lemony-stony fruited flavours. The old vines used here have certainly played their part in imparting complexity and quality. Good Length too. Scribblings Rating - 88/100 ”

Isabelle & Noe Rouballay own and run this charming small domaine in southern Touraine on a plateau between the Loire and Cher rivers at Oisly SEE MAP

This family run domaine is totally focussed on producing quality wines. They adhere to the TERRA VITIS approach, which whilst not truly organic, is a system which minimises the use of artificial fertilisers and pesticides, with a view to ensuring that the soil and “terroir” remain healthy and productive for future harvests and generations. Two-thirds of their production is for white wines (i.e. Sauvignon)

The Loire Valley is often over-looked for good quality wines, but this is changing as some of the better winemakers are really concentrating on good quality, small yields and careful vinification. The climate here is more influenced by the continent rather than the Atlantic Ocean compared to the rest of the Loire Valley, and hence is often a little warmer and drier.
Sauvignon Blanc is the star grape variety in this region, but very good reds are also produced.
TOURAINE SAUVIGNON AC - Domaine Octavie
The combination of soil and climate make this region especially good for Sauvignon Blanc. Being cooler than wine regions further south means that good crisp, full-flavoured Sauvignon can be made, but without excessive acidity which can sometimes spoil these wines. (The area is close to the classic Sancerre & Pouilly-Fumé areas, which arguably produce the best northern hemisphere Sauvignons, albeit at a price.) This wine from Domaine Octavie is delightful - dry, fresh, clean flavours with well-balanced acidity. On the nose it is quite complex and aromatic - grassy, gooseberry tones.

TOURAINE AC Cuvee Fragrance, Domaine Octavie
Despite a relatively cool climate, the region (and this domaine) can also produce good reds, which tend to be less tannic than wines from further south in France. As always it is a matter of choosing the right grape varieties which have the potential to produce wonderful wines.
This cuvée is a very successful blend of Gamay (immediate and accessible fruitiness), Cabernet Franc (the red Loire grape - raspberry, earthy tones) and Cot (also known as Auxerrois or Malbec) which brings body and structure to the wine. Skilled blending by Noe Rouballay yields a lovely fruity, classy red with lots of upfront fruit, yet satisfyingly long in the mouth. Great with cold meats, pasta etc.
CONTACT -
Isabelle & Noe Rouballay, Domaine Octavie, 41700 OISLY SEE MAP
TÉL : 02.54.79.54.57 FAX : 02.54.79.65.20
www.domaineoctavie.com

Sunday 30 July 2006 (Sunday 29 July in 2007) sees the annual Fete des Vins at Bonny-sur-Loire.(45 Loiret, Centre), Although close to both Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire, the wines here are from the Coteaux Giennois (from near the town of Gien on the Loire) - whites from Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin, reds from Pinot Noir and Gamay. Chenin Blanc is the typical white grape variety in the Loire Valley wines - especially in the main section of the river - Bonny is on the cusp between the dominance of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon from up-river vineyards such as Sancerre.
Although they lack the finesse of their more famous neighbours, they are good little wines and represent good value.
See map

Sancerre (18 Cher, Centre) is world-renown vineyard (and pretty town) in the mid-Loire Valley, The town is situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Loire river and providing a superb view of the vineyards which enjoy the natural slopes on limestone and marl.
It is recognised for its Sauvignon Blanc wines - dry and minerally - although in the past it had been better known for its red Pinot Noir, which is still produced albeit in smaller quantities.

Amboise (37, Indre et Loire, Loire Valley) in the Touraine celebrates in annual wine festival in the imposing surroundings of the Chateau d’Amboise 15-17 April 2006.

The relevant appellation is Touraine Amboise AC, situated between Tours and Blois on the Loire, and includes still and sparkling whites made from Chenin blanc, rose and red wines made from Cabernet Franc and Gamay.

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