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The Telegraph (19 Aug 08) includes a boat trip up the Rhone Valley as one of its top 10 river cruises:

Navigating France’s mightiest river is a favourite for wine aficionados and foodies. A cruise through Burgundy and Provence gives you the chance to visit vineyards (think Côtes du Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape), explore Lyon – the gourmet capital of France – and enjoy historic towns such as the fortified city of Avignon and the Roman ruins in Arles. The countryside is equally superb: its fields of lavender and sunflowers were an inspiration for artists such as Vincent Van Gogh, and as the river drains into the Mediterranean you’ll see the famous white horses of the Camargue.

The route includes many worthwhile stops for visits to suit all tastes, but it is also remarkably rich in potential wine visits as you’ll pass through appellations such as Costieres de Nimes, Cotes du Rhone (north and south), Lirac, Tavel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, St Joseph and Hermitage - and if you branch onto the River Saone north of Lyon you can explore Beuajolais and southern Burgundy!

It should come as little surprise that rivers and canals tend to offer good access to good vineyards - vines often grow best on the steep valley sides with their good drainage and aspect to the sun.

A more modest trip than the Rhone, could be a canal trip from Auxerre (89 Yonne, Burgundy) close to Chablis and down the Canal de Bourgogne to Dijon and the Burgundy vineyards; or a trip down the Canal Lateral de la Loire for Sancerre AC, Pouilly-Fumé and Coteaux Giennois. By using the Canal du Nivernais and the Canal de Briare you could even manage a circular route via Auxerre.

Of course, Rick Stein’s French Odyssey was based on a canal trip along the Canal du Midi and the Canal Lateral de la Garonne and included the vineyards of Bordeaux, Cotes du Marmandais, Buzet, Fronton, Minervois, Corbieres and the Coteaux du Languedoc.

For another set of options try Hilary Wright’s book Water into Wine: A Wine Lover’s Journey Through The Waterways of France which also includes itineraries in the lower Loire. Cognac, Alsace, Lorraiine and the Lot.

For more info on the canals of France see the website for VNF (Voies Navigable de la France) now much improved and in English!

France has always been a good camping destination - the French themselves enjoy “le camping” and the autoroutes heading south are testament to what seems like a mass exodus of Dutch caravans every summer seeking the warmer climes of the Midi or Provence.
On a recent visit to Domaine Octavie at Oisly (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) we discovered a special scheme for motor-caravab (motorhomes?, RVs?, camping cars) called France Passion. In return for a small annual subscription (about £22) you get a map and guide to thousands of farms and vineyards across France where you can park up for the night free of charge.
You need to be self-contained for water, electric etc, as these locations are not campsites with all the amenities - often just a water tap and a bin for the rubbish.
Limited to just a couple of vans, the scheme offers the chance to stay in idyllic, peaceful surroundings - at Octavie this was amidst the vines!
And being effectively the winemaker or farmer’s guest, it is only polite to offer to taste the produce - be it wine, fruit, vegetables, honey, foie gras, snails, olives, even ostrich!
I have heard the French complain that many northern europeans visit their region only to be too self-contained - bringing their home with them and keeping themselves to themselves - but this scheme offers the chance to meet the French on their own turf and find out something about the life of a farmer or winemaker.
For more info on the scheme see www.france-passion.co.uk

We always enjoy visiting Domaine Octavie, where Madame Isabelle provides a warm welcome - their Touraine Sauvignon AC is always excellent - this part of France is ideal for producing top quality Sauvignon Blanc - the region includes Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Quincy etc.
We were also impressed with the Touraine Gamay AC, which had a remarkable depth of flavour and structure - ideal to accompany a grilled lamb steak (tranche de gigot. Another testament to the changing climate methinks - as Loire valley Gamay could never have reached such a level of intensity 10 years or so ago.
Domaine Octavie, Oisly, 41 Loir-et-Cher

Our tastes in wine tend to be quite individual, and I always seek out those wines which stand out from the bland, branded crowd so often presented on supermarket shelves.

Hence my eyes sparkle a little when I find a wine merchant stocking something really interesting and different – one such recent discovery being Martlet Wines – as they stock one of my more obscure favourites:-

DOMAINE DES HUARDS, Cour-Cheverny AC Cuvée Francois 1er 2002, Romorantin £ 8.25 The little known Romorantin grape is now exclusive to Cour-Cheverny. A favourite of Leonardo de Vinci, it produces a very individual wine. Dry with subtle fruits and a slightly “sherried” flavour.

This was one of the wines we imported at ALLEZ VINS! from Michel Gendrier at Cheverny (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) near Blois on the Loire. Made from old vine Romorantin grapes this is very dry and aromatic – and perhaps a bit of an acquired taste. Michel does also produce more approachable whites – such as the Cheverny AC Blanc, a delightful blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Small quantities, and small demand – few customers had ever heard of it, so most sales were at tastings where it was either raved about or dismissed depending on your palate.

So good to find another adventurous wine merchant – Martlet Wines also stocks a range of other top notch French wines – such as the wines of Mas de la Serranne in the Languedoc.

For more on Domaine des Huards see http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/huards.html

Michel and Jocelyne Gendrier at Domaine des Huards are great enthusiasts for these wines - elegant and richly flavoured. Their reputation has spread beyond the local region to Paris - and every weekend you’ll find Parisiens at the domaine, having travelled down the autoroute just to stock up on these wines.
You can be assured of a warm welcome at the domaine (see map). The Gendrier family have owned the domaine since 1846. In 1950 4 hectares of vines were cutlivated, mostly of the the white Romorantin grape. Today the domaine covers 32 hectares and produces 170,000 bottles of wine annually. The soil is predominantly clay and chalk with some areas more sandy.
The Gendriers show a constant concern for the environment, avoiding the use of synthetic products for treating the vines and banning weedkillers and chemical fertilisers. In many ways this is a return to the way it was done 50 years ago, working the soil to conserve the natural potential of the different soils and microbiological diversity of the vineyard.
Michel et Jocelyne Gendrier at Domaine des Huards
41700 Cour-Cheverny (see map)
T:00 33 254 79 97 90
F: 00 33 25479 26 82
E: infos@gendrier.com www.gendrier.com/

Cheverny Blanc AC Domaine des Huards 2001
A delightful and successful blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay - great grassy crispness from the Sauvignon augmented by the rich smoothness of the Chardonnay. Made from 20+ year old vines combining gooseberry, elderflower, grassy Sauvignon fruit with lime blossom floral tones. Ripe fruit with fresh acidity.
2** stars in the Guide Hachette des Vins de France 2007
Reviewed in ANDYS SCRIBBLINGS: “A superbly interesting aroma - very floral with a gravel path edge. These aromas are duplicated on the medium-bodied palate. The Chardonnay component supplies a peachy quality with the cool climate origins revealing themselves in the high/crisp acidity. Scribblings Rating - 88/100″

Cour Cheverny AC Cuvée Francois I Domaine des Huards 2001
Old Vine Romorantin. Unique in France this appellation uses only the ROMORANTIN Grape. This cuvée is produced from vines aged over 50 years old - the earliest planted in 1922! Hence the yields are low and this lends enhanced concentration to the wine. It has a pure and very fresh refined bouquet. Big in the mouth, with tones of lime, butter and fresh walnuts! It is long lasting in the mouth On harvesting one-third of the wine is left in contact with the skins for 15 hours to extract tannin and minerals. After fermentation the wine is left on some of the lees for 5 months and bottled without filtration.”exotic with spice, apricot, ginger, lychee and grapefruit zest. Tangy and long in the mouth with a creamy texture amd a spicy,floral, biscuity finish.”
Recommended in the Guide Hachette des Vins de France 2007.
Reviewed in ANDYS SCRIBBLINGS: “A good lightly brushed golden hue with a really interesting aroma. The palate is quite taught and minerally - austere almost, but there is a nice weight and some lemony-stony fruited flavours. The old vines used here have certainly played their part in imparting complexity and quality. Good Length too. Scribblings Rating - 88/100 ”

Isabelle & Noe Rouballay own and run this charming small domaine in southern Touraine on a plateau between the Loire and Cher rivers at Oisly SEE MAP

This family run domaine is totally focussed on producing quality wines. They adhere to the TERRA VITIS approach, which whilst not truly organic, is a system which minimises the use of artificial fertilisers and pesticides, with a view to ensuring that the soil and “terroir” remain healthy and productive for future harvests and generations. Two-thirds of their production is for white wines (i.e. Sauvignon)

The Loire Valley is often over-looked for good quality wines, but this is changing as some of the better winemakers are really concentrating on good quality, small yields and careful vinification. The climate here is more influenced by the continent rather than the Atlantic Ocean compared to the rest of the Loire Valley, and hence is often a little warmer and drier.
Sauvignon Blanc is the star grape variety in this region, but very good reds are also produced.
TOURAINE SAUVIGNON AC - Domaine Octavie
The combination of soil and climate make this region especially good for Sauvignon Blanc. Being cooler than wine regions further south means that good crisp, full-flavoured Sauvignon can be made, but without excessive acidity which can sometimes spoil these wines. (The area is close to the classic Sancerre & Pouilly-Fumé areas, which arguably produce the best northern hemisphere Sauvignons, albeit at a price.) This wine from Domaine Octavie is delightful - dry, fresh, clean flavours with well-balanced acidity. On the nose it is quite complex and aromatic - grassy, gooseberry tones.

TOURAINE AC Cuvee Fragrance, Domaine Octavie
Despite a relatively cool climate, the region (and this domaine) can also produce good reds, which tend to be less tannic than wines from further south in France. As always it is a matter of choosing the right grape varieties which have the potential to produce wonderful wines.
This cuvée is a very successful blend of Gamay (immediate and accessible fruitiness), Cabernet Franc (the red Loire grape - raspberry, earthy tones) and Cot (also known as Auxerrois or Malbec) which brings body and structure to the wine. Skilled blending by Noe Rouballay yields a lovely fruity, classy red with lots of upfront fruit, yet satisfyingly long in the mouth. Great with cold meats, pasta etc.
CONTACT -
Isabelle & Noe Rouballay, Domaine Octavie, 41700 OISLY SEE MAP
TÉL : 02.54.79.54.57 FAX : 02.54.79.65.20
www.domaineoctavie.com

South of Blois in the Touraine, Cheverny (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) offers good food, wine and hotels - see map Read more on this…