Auvergne

Something of a detour from almost every other destination or route, high in the departement of Haute-Loire (Auvergne) is a rather stark and evocative clearing in the woods which houses a Memorial and Museum to the Resistance at Mont Mouchet. It lies about 30 km east of St Flour  (15 Cantal, Auvergne) off the A75 autoroute.

It is very isolated and high and served as a redoubt for the Resistance against the Germans and a base from which they launched guerilla tactics to harry the occupiers. The Germans however launched numerous massive armoured attacks to try to wipe them out, which resulted in many acts of heroism from the resistance members. However what is clear is that survival inthe environment must have been difficult even without the threat of the Germans – this is no bocolic Robin Hood existence but a tough and unforgiving place to be.

In addition to the Memorial and Museum there is also a small café.

Musée de la Résistance du Mont-Mouchet

43300 Auvers

Opening times: 1st May – 15th September: every day, 9.30am-12.00pm, 2.00pm-7.00pm.

16th September – 15th October: weekends, 10.00am – 12.00pm, 2.00pm-6.00pm.

le lac d'Allier

Some placenames conjur up an image automatically – e.g. the Somme and World War One and Vichy, the ignominious seat of a disgraceful regime during the occupation of France by Hitler.

Yet get behind those images – and the Somme is a delightful landscape of rolling hills, sandy beaches and a haven for wildlife!

Similarly Vichy (03 Allier, Auvergne) is a pleasant and elegant spa town. It was apparently chosen by Marechal Petain as the seat of government because it had plenty of hotels which could be taken over for ministerial offices and accommodation for the bureaucrats.

It seems remarkably isolated compared to other cities in the so-called “free zone” – such as Lyon or Clermont Ferrand. And that situation, being off the major routes, makes it peaceful and relaxing.

The town possesses many fine hotels – and the Hotel de Ville – of the late 19^th Century – but nowadays there are plenty of modern buildings to house tourists or those who come for the beneficial effects of the Spa – Thermes – and the waterfront alongside the river/lake (the Allier)  offer more energetic pursuits.

To reach Vichy from the north take the A77 autoroute to Nevers and Moulins and beyond.

There is a train service direct from Paris Gare de Lyon – you can book tickets from London and the UK with RailEurope

Hotel de Ville, Vichy

Find the best rates for Hotels in Vichy
The locals are called Vichyssoises – also the name given to a classic cold leek and potato soup – so-named by the creative chef who lived near Vichy. Also known for Vicy Water – an effervescent mineral water which has been bottled in the region for many years.

The railway journey from Nimes(30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon)  to Clermont Ferrand (63 Puy de Dome, Auvergne) offers you a different perspective on the Massif Central than most of us experience using the main north-south artery down the Autoroute du Soleil. Whilst the newer A75 route from Beziers to Clermont-Ferrand also offers some spectacular views, the train gives you more time to admire the landscape and takes you to places which the car cannot.

Crossing the wild country of the Cevennes in southern France this line passes through 106 tunnels and over almost 1,300 bridges, including the impressive 41 arch Chamborigaud Viaduct.

Easily reached by TGV from Paris, Nîmes is the starting point of this leisurely journey through the remote, wild country of the Cevennes. Though only 303km long, the line burrows through 106 tunnels and crosses almost 1,300 bridges, including some of the most impressive viaducts on French railways, such as the 28-arch edifice at Chapeauroux and the 41-arch near-semicircle of Chamborigaud Viaduct.

The southern plain of vineyards, Lombardy poplars and Aleppo pines gives way to a few miles of hilly post-industrial landscape with occasional traces of mining activity gradually being reclaimed by nature. The long climb into the Cevennes and the summit at La Bastide (1,023m above sea level) is flanked by woods and the occasional agricultural terrace etched into the hillside. Running across a plateau, the train offers panoramic views across hills stretching to the horizon. Lonely stations in the middle of nowhere make one wonder at the optimism of the railway’s builders. But perhaps the finest stretch is the long section of track built on a masonry ledge above the River Allier with glorious views along the sinuous valley.

The journey takes about 5½ hours, yet fares start at  just £34 – the 300km route passes through Ales, Chamborigaud, Villefort, Chapeauroux, Langogne, Langeac, Brioude and Issoire.

For more details see www.raileurope.co.uk

See map

Another acclaimed scenically beautiful rail route is in the French Comté – see http://frenchduck.com

The Independent (2 Aug 08) has another of its “50 Best…” series, this time on Railway Journeys – and includes 2 French ones.

Clermont Ferrand-Beziers

The less well-used of the two lines from Clermont Ferrand through the Massif Central (the other goes to Nimes), this switchback route traverses some of the wildest country in France. Near St Flour the line crosses Eiffel’s Garabit Viaduct and follows the Lot and Tarn rivers to reach Millau and Norman Foster’s viaduct, the world’s highest road bridge.

The journey takes 5 hours and costs about €50. It has to be said that the road journey is pretty spectacular too, whether you opt for the new autoroute A75 or quieter side roads as the route crosses the Auvergne and the Causses before descending to the Languedoc (see www.frenchduck.co.uk/travel)

Eurostar London – Paris

Okay, most of the scenery between London and Paris or Brussels isn’t going to inspire a modern-day Edward Thomas, but the pleasure of using the magnificently restored station at St Pancras and the blissful ease of Eurostar makes it a great experience. Treat yourself to first class and enjoy champagne and a pretty respectable meal at 186mph.

Personally I would also recommend the route from Brive-la-Gaillarde to Montauban via Gourdon and Cahors – it cuts through the dramatic limestone landscapes and valleys of South West France offering unmatchable views of the countryside, the Lot River and the town of Cahors. Time: about 2 hrs, cost about €25.
With RailEurope you can book your rail journey to any destination within France, including Eurostar services, TGV and local trains

See the FrenchDuck article on Tourist Trains in France

Anthony Peregrine in the Times (27 July 2008) embarks on a cheesey tour of France and this would be a great way to have a themed trip – maybe getting you into corners of France which might otherwise be missed. Furthermore there is increasing pressure both from EU bureaucrats, big commercial dairies and undiscerning consumers, which threatens the future of traditional artisan cheese-making.

….It’s good to visit them, too, to get to grips with the subject properly. They need all the allies they can get in the battle against industrial dairy plastic. They’re also to be found in some of the remotest, greenest and loveliest bits of France. Here are five of our favourites. All have an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), which, as with wine, means that the item has to come from where it has always come from and be made as it has always been made. All will be glad to see you (and your money). Naturally, they might still drive you crackers with purple prose. You’ll just have to live with that. We’re travelling north to south.

So his tour encompasses Camembert (61 Orne, Normandy), Munster (68 Haut Rhin, Alsace), Epoisses (21 Cote d’Or, Burgundy), Comté (39 Jura, Franche-Comté) and the Auvergne which includes Saint Nectaire (63 Puy de Dome, Auvergne) – all of which are in beautiful parts of France and well worth a visit.

In the Auvergne there is a signposted Cheese route (Route des Fromages) - you can download a map and details at www.fromages-aoc-auvergne.com

In the Jura there is a Cheese Trail - details of creameries and farms open to visitors can be seen at www.lesroutesducomte.com

If you cannot get out to the farm, then these are French Cheese shops we can recommend:-

Fromagerie Marie-Anne Cantin, 12 rue du Champ de Mars PARIS – just off rue Cler in the 7th arrondisement – an overwhelming selection of delicious cheeses – very professional but also very helpful – also run tasting sessions.

To guide you in this wide field of cheese gastronomy Marie Anne Cantin and her husband Antoine Dias offer you tasting sessions.
According to the seasons , they will have you discover the different families of cheeses, their history, their making process , their character and particular flavour. You will learn how to choose your cheeses, eat, present and keep them.

Cremerie Marty Patrick, 160 rue Nationale CAHORS (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) – excellent choice, also includes butter, cream and fresh pasta (see video)

The village of Pailherols (15 Cantal, Auvergne) will be celebrating the local Cantal cheese 31 May and 1 June 2008 with a cheese market, where local producers will offer samples of this semi-hard cheese made from the Salers cows which graze on the mountain meadows and pastures of the region. Just to confuse, the cheese made in the summer when the cows are on the moutain slopes is called “Salers”, whilst that made in winter from cows fed on hay is called “Cantal” In addition you’ll find a collection of tractors from various periods; a cow parade through the village (Salers cows of course) ; children can enjoy visiting a miniature farm.

To balance the rich food you can take a hike on the Saturday to see shepherd’s huts.

Graciously there is also a “guest” cheese-maling region which is the Franche-Comté this year. Cheesemakers from there will reveal the secrets of making Comté cheese (another semi-hard mountain cows mile cheese also known as Gruyere de Comté) and offer a fondue on Saturday night.

See map

For more info on the Cheese Festival see www.auvergne-tourisme.info

The village is situated between Aurillac (15 Cantal, Auvergne) and St Flour (15 Cantal, Auvergne) an area which is not exactly “just off the autoroute”. Consequently it remains quiet and unspoilt -

Life in Cantal is played out against a stunning landscape of immense power and beauty. Home to natural riches as varied as the dramatic gorges of the Lot and Truyère, the ancient woodland of La Châtaigneraie, the wild moorland of the Aubrac and the boundless emerald green pastures of Salers.

But above all Cantal is a land dominated by mountains.

Cows and cheese play an important part in the local economy with Saler and Cantal joined by St Nectaire, Fourme d’Ambert, Bleu d’Auvergne.This is an area full of rich simple food based on the best local ingredients. A wide variety of locally cured and produced charcuterie: hams, fritons, pates, terrines and sausages. Game from the hills and woodland with seasonal hare and rabbit, quail, venison and wild boar. Rustic breads and pastries, nuts, oils, jams and honeys. Famous Gentian liqueur, eaux de vie distilled from plums, raspberries, blackberries, blackcurrants and chestnuts – sounds good enough to eat!

See our customised Google Map

For more info on the Cantal département see www.cantaltourisme.fr