Although no great fan of Ryanair’s outrageous pricing policy which ends up charging you extra for almost anything they can think of, such as luggage, payment by credit card etc – the airline has enabled many Brits to access parts of France by air which might not have been possible. So, you could spice up a stay in Poitou-Charentes with a few days in Spain – and Barcelona is well worth a visit with its architecture, proximity to the Mediterranean and vibrant day and night life!

Unlike some airline destinations, Poitiers-Biard Airport is close to the centre of the town

There is also a new route starting in March 2010 from Pau (64 Pyrenees-Atlantiques, Aquitaine) in the foothills of the Pyrenees to Beauvais (60 Oise, Picardie), north of Paris. – which takes just 90 minutes in the air! – and Edinburgh to Bordeaux (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) from March 2010

For more info see www.ryanair.com

The Spanish terminal is at Santurtzi about 10 miles from the city on the edge of the Basque country. For francophiles the advantage is that Bilbao is less than 2 hours from the French border and destinations such as Biarritz and Bayonne, and as such offers a much more convenient journey to the Pyrenees than driving all the way from the Engish Channel, Normandy or Brittany. By comparison Biarritz is more than 660 miles from Calais, over 500 miles from Caen, Le Havre and Cherbourg and 450 miles from St Malo. By the time you factor in the cost of autoroute tolls and overnight accommodation the higher cost of the 35-hour crossing (or cruise).

After September 2010 the only alternative will be the Brittany Ferries Service to Santander which is about an hour further west than Bilbao.
I keep hoping that someone would open a ferry service from UK to Bordeaux which would be an ideal entry point for the whole of SouthWest France.

If you’ve ever considered being part of the French wine harvest then have a look at RTE’s video on Chateau Haut Garrigue in Saussignac west of  Bergerac – see www.rte.ie
Caroline & Sean Feely purchased the vineyard 4 years ago, and have developed a biodynamic, organic vineyard which is winning great acclaim from winelovers and professionals. Certainly we have enjoyed their wine (red, rosé and white Bergerac AC) and a visit to the Chateau last year.

They are huge enthusiasts and have developed the domain, opened a self-catering gite and enjoy sharing their passion for wine with visitors – including nature vineyard walks in and around the vineyard, wine tours to St Emilion and Medoc and classes including

a hands-on ‘Wine Workshop’ to learn about French wines and understand the complicated appellation system or a ‘Day Tour to St Emilion, Medoc or Bergerac’, a luxury 3-day ‘Vineyard Walking Tour’ or an ‘Exclusive Experience’ at our working organic vineyard and wine estate. Our goal is to exceed your expectations and give you relaxation, new knowledge and wonderful memories to take home. If you have more than a day why not create your own unique multi-day French wine tour using our suggested day tour options.

And it does not stop there – you can rent a row of vines and benefit from the fruits of the vintage; an online shop for buying their wines from UK, Ireland or France. It is well worth a visit!  If you are quick you can still order your wine for Christmas for UK delivery  (deadlne 16 November 2009) – see www.hautgarrigue.com/ukwine.html

Chateau Haut Garriguee24240 Saussignac France.

From a spectator point of view it promises a good day out in the Medoc – as although you miss the momentary flash of 100+ professional cyclists zooming past, you get to see ech rider individually and can make a whole day of it with the race taking 2 hours or so to pass.

For more info see www.letour.fr

Bordeaux has improved its image and facilities in recent years and now celebrates its river (Garonne) with a River Festival (20-21 June 2009) – Fete du Fleuve Bordeaux with singing and dancing on the quays throughout the weekend.

Previously the riverside tended to be more industrial and delapidated – or bordered by heavy traffic – so along with many other aspects of the city it has become more visitor-friendly and relaxed.

Bordeaux will play host to a new festival open to the public and centred on the Garonne river, music, and dance on 20-21 June 2009. This will coincide with the arrival of the Belem, France’s last surviving three-masted tall ship, which  will drop anchor in the Port de la Lune, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For more info see www.bordeaux-fete-le-fleuve.com

For more recommendations on where to stay, eat, visit etc see “le weekend in Bordeaux”

Where to stay?

Bordeaux City Centre Apartment – - selected for its location in the heart of the city on the fashionable Rue des Remparts. This pedestrianised street is situated between the prestigious shopping street “Cours de l’Intendance” and the city’s fine Cathedral “St. André”. Rue des Remparts offers a smart selection of bistro restaurants, cafés, boutique clothes and jewellery shops, delicatessen and specialised gift shops.

Where to eat – recommended

Le Vieux Bordeaux – Nearly a neighborhood institution, this restaurant ranks among the top five in a highly competitive market. Specialties include roasted sea bass on a gratin of pulverized black olives; thin-sliced escalopes of duck foie gras with coffee-flavored sauce; and “Oriental” (sweet-and-sour) pigeon with lime sauce. For a fixed price lunch expect to pay around €19. Tel no. – 05-56-52-94-36 Address 27 rue Buhan – Booking Essential!

Where to eat – gourmet

La Tupina – One of Bordeaux’s most talented chefs runs this cozy spot with a summer terrace near quai de la Monnaie. It’s been called “a tribute to country kitchens and the grandmothers who cooked in them.” Jean-Pierre Xiradakis’s specialty is duck, so your meal may begin with croutons spread with duck rillettes, and the kitchen often uses duck giblets, skin, and livers in salads. Other specialties are roasted shoulder of lamb en confit with garlic and white beans, lamprey eel à la Bordelaise, and steaks grilled and barbecued at the table. Desserts usually include pears marinated in red bordeaux wine. Website www.latupina.com – 6 rue de la Porte de la Monnaie Tel no. – 05-56-91-56-37 For a fixed price lunch or dinner expect to pay around €50. Booking recommended.

Where to eat – value for money

L’entrecote – A bordeaux institution. The best steak and chips in Town – not suitable for vegetarians! 4 Cours du 30 Juillet. Tel no. 05 56 81 76 10. Not necessary to book, but arrive early as long queues are the norm. Pepone Italian – 31 Cours Georges Clemenceau, 33000 Bordeaux – 05 56 44 91 05 Superb pizzas and anti pasta. Expect to queue.

Local wine/drink

Bordeaux of course!

Market

The quarter of Saint-Michel, built around the flamboyant gothic style Basilica, dedicated to the Archangel is by far the most lively and colourful quarter in the city.

There is a market under the beautiful spire every Monday and Saturday morning, and the shops around the square make for a lively and authentic atmosphere that the Bordelais poets such as Meste Verdié and Ulysse Despaux have always appreciated.

Must see

Musée d’Aquitaine An outstanding museum with over 25,000 years of history end ethnography. Exceptional artefacts include several prehistoric stone carvings of women and a collection of Gallo-Roman steles, statues and ceramics. Musée des Beaux-Arts Bordeaux’s fine art museum, is located in two wings of the 1770’s Hotel de Ville (2 minutes walk from the Apartment). It includes 17th century Flemish, Dutch and Italian paintings and 20th century works by Matisse, Picasso and others. Just around the block is the Galerie des Beaux-Arts, which hosts short-term exhibitions (check the Bordeaux Tourist information official website for up to date information). CAPC Musée d’Art Contemporain Housed in what was the main Colonial Foodstuffs Warehouse in the 19th century, this museum features more than 600 works by more than 100 artists. It includes French paintings from the 1970’s, paintings from the 1980’s and a selection of works by contemporary artists. Musée d’Histoire Naturelle The natural history museum is located near the Jardin Public. This museum was founded at the time of the French Revolution. There is a huge collection of animal and plant specimens, particularly on the regions famous palaeontology. Notre-Dame Church The very pinnacle of Baroque art in Bordeaux, the church has a brilliant décor of exceptional quality: wrought-iron work, a superb organ case, a pulpit carved in red marble and 18th. century paintings. Place de la Bourse Open to the river, dedicated to Louis XV, the square remains one of the purest “classics” of 18th century style. An equestrian statue of Louis XV used to stand in the middle. It was destroyed during the revolution and later replaced by the Fountain of the Three Graces (Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugénie and the Queen of Spain). This was the first monumental ensemble to be illuminated in the city’s ‘Plan Lumière’.

A bit of culture?

The Grand Théâtre Built from 1773 to 1780 by architect Victor Louis, The Grand Théâtre, a master-piece of neo-classical architecture stands on the site of a Gallo-Roman monument, the Piliers de Tutelle temple, which was destroyed in 1674. Restored to its original décor, the auditorium is admired as one of the finest in the world. The stairwell is grandiose and the stairs are decorated in the antique style featuring a caryatid theme.

Shopping

The Quartier Centre Ville to the north of the Hotel de Ville

Somewhere for a stroll

The Jardin Public Representing 10 hectares of public gardens in the city centre, The Jardin Public was created by Tourny, Royal Intendant, in 1746. It was designed to link the city with Faubourg Saint-Seurin and Chartrons. In 1856, the garden was re-developed in the “English” style by landscape architects Fisher and Escarpit. The Botanical Gardens have been present here since 1855, and feature a collection of around 3,000 different species of living plants.

Something for the kids

“Family Plus”, an ideal destination for the young and the not so young! Families travelling with young children can rely on the “Family Plus” hallmark and seal of approval to make sure their holiday in Bordeaux is a success.

The hallmark makes it easy to see just what is on offer for families in terms of holiday destinations and family-friendly services available when they get there.

The scheme helps reconcile the differing expectations of children and their parents, by ensuring that the holiday offers what everyone in the family is looking for: special prices, special activities for children led by professional staff, special family-centred accommodation and services…

…and then they can get together again afterwards.

Getting there

Bordeaux Airport (Merignac) offers plenty of international flights ibncluding Aer Arann, Brtish Airways , bmi baby, bmi, easyjet and Flybe,. TGV high speed train direct from Paris with Eurostar connections from London Autorute A10 from Paris

Getting around

New tramway system serves the centre.Buses serve the whole city area. “Bordeaux Discovery” cards are available

When to go

Bordeaux has a host of specially organised year round attractions and events.Here is a small selection of a few of them. For further information regarding any of the below and a full listing of what’s on, please contact Bordeaux Tourist Information centre. The Bordeaux Salon des Antiquaires, held in the Parc des Expositions, is among France’s finest fairs. Around 200 top antique dealers from all over France and beyond descend on the wine capital to display their antiques. All exhibits are checked by the on-site team of experts to verify authenticity and quality. Bordeaux International Showing Jumping Event The best international jumpers and their riders compete at the Bordeaux-Lac Exhibition Centre during this world-class show jumping event. Official Website: www.bordeaux-expo.com Bric-a-brac Market The lively Foire à la Brocante (bric-a-brac market) takes place in Bordeaux’s huge Parc des Expositions every spring and autumn. Although not as prestigious as the annual Antiques Fair, attendance is free and you may just uncover a prize antique…

Around 300 traders from all over France and Europe attend. Quality is not guaranteed, nor is authenticity, but prices are affordable and there is a vast choice of 17th-19th century antiques, ranging from furniture to postage stamps, antique jewellery, dolls and pictures.(7-8 March 2009) The Bordeaux Spring Fair in the Place des Quinconces is an annual tradition in Bordeaux. A mix of exhibits and stands from plants to antiques and many local food producers all line up in the atmospheric Place des Quinconces (April 25- 10 May 2009) Bordeaux International Fair The Bordeaux International Fair is the largest of its kind in France. With 2500 exhibitors from 50 countries and more than 300,000 visitors it is a great place to spend a few hours (even a couple of days.) (16-25 May 2009) Vinexpo One of the world wine industry’s premier events held at the Parc des Expositions. This year more than 2500 exhibitors will be pushing their wares to some 60,000 trade and press visitors. Les Epicuriales Festival Celebrates the flavours and cultures of the world along Bordeaux’s leafy Allées de Tourny.

During this summer festival, around 30 restaurants pop up, spilling out on to the sunny terrasses. Musicians perform everything from reggae to rock while street theatre and an evening art and craft market add to the festive atmosphere. At the centre of the celebrations, visitors can taste world and local wines in a large tent, L’espace Epicuriales. (28 May – 1 Jun 2009)

For a longer stay…..

Bordeaux is undoubtedly most famous worldwide for its superb wines. It is the capital of the region known as Aquitaine and is a major cultural centre and a transportation hub between southern France and Spain. The elegant city is rich in history, culture, arts, music, legendary wines and gastronomy. It is not only the fine wines capital of the world but also a vibrant centre of trade, industry, services and business.

The city centre is known for its neoclassic architecture and wide avenues, which over recent years have undergone a major investment programme to include cleaning up the building facades and renovate the quayside, to make a fashionable restaurant and bar district. A state of the art tram system is now operating in the city, which has reduced traffic congestion and left the city centre pedestrianised and easy to navigate.

Bordeaux is a fantastic showcase for Romanesque, gothic and Renaissance art displayed in museums, churches, forts, galleries, mansions, gardens and public walkways and buildings.

The elegant city is rich in history, culture, arts, music, legendary wines and gastronomy. It is not only the fine wines capital of the world but also a vibrant centre of trade, industry, services and business.

The city centre is known for its neoclassical architecture and wide avenues, which over recent years have undergone a major investment programme to include cleaning up the building facades and renovate the quayside, to make a fashionable restaurant and bar district. A state of the art tram system is now operating in the city, which has reduced traffic congestion and left the city centre pedestrianised and easy to navigate.

Bordeaux is a fantastic showcase for Romanesque, gothic and Renaissance art displayed in museums, churches, forts, galleries, mansions, gardens and public walkways and buildings.

For more info on Bordeaux see www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/ Recommendations kindly provided by Jane at Bordeaux City Centre Apartment

In April 2008, 22 students from the Photographic department were welcomed each in one of the 22 participating cities. The participants ranged in age between 20 and 35 years old, as well as originating from 15 different countries. Each student was given an “emotional passport” to express their own talent and sense and to capture the daily life of France. Their only requirement: let the dreams and emotions of the people and places be the guide!

The venues include Aix-en-Provence, Amiens, Angers, Avignon, Bordeaux, Dijon, Grenoble, Le Havre, Lille, Marseille, Metz, Montpellier, Mulhouse, Nancy, Nantes, Nice, Nimes, Reims. Rennes, Rouen, Toulouse and Versailles.

For more info see www.franceemotion.com/

Also running under the banner of Wild Earth Vineyards, Caroline is passionate about encouraging people to appreciate and understand her organic wines. With a delightful gite (holiday rental accommodation) enjoying stunning views over the Dordogne valley and the vineyards, regular vineyard walks (which include other local organic vineyards), tutored wine classes (in Bergerac and Ireland!), longer vineyard walking holidays in Bordeaux, St Emilion & Bergerac – and other wine experiences which include trying your hand at being a winemaker for a day! – they offer plenty of ways of getting to know the wines and vineyard well.

Happily, all this “tourism” is secondary to the main focus, which is to produce great wines – and they do. We were hugely impressed by their clean, bright aromatic dry Sauvignon Blanc, but their other whites, rosé and seriously good red wines are also excellent and rated highly in the press and elsewhere:

‘Its gorgeous’ is what the Irish Times says of our La Source red wine. We also have our methode traditionnelle sparkling (the real thing) and 2006 saussignac available to you.It’s not just the taste that is superb. When you buy from us you are supporting:
- organic farming giving you a healthy product that does not have herbicide/ pesticide residues
- a very low carbon footprint (we do much of our vineyard work by hand, we favour natural processes rather than intervention and we have an oak forest to offset our CO2 emissions) giving us all a better future.

Well worth a visit if you are in the region, you can also order online for delivery to your door in the UK and Ireland. If you order by 8th December 2008 you can get UK delivery in time for Christmas and indulge with good wine direct from the winemaker!

Interestingly many of the small independent vineyards in the Bergerac appellation are going organic – and not just for the “feel good” factor or as a marketing ploy – sustainable vineyards and a healthy environment are needed to support the complex combination of factors (e.g. soil, climate, rootstock and people) which have to come together to produce consistently good wines.

For more info:-
Caroline & Sean Feely  E: caroline@wildearthvineyards.com
Chateau Haut Garrigue
24240 Saussignac
France
Tel: +33(0)553227271

The Quercy Blanc – named for its white stone – is a wild and sparsely populated area of rural France, squeezed between the great wine trading port of Bordeaux and the fizzing city of the south, Toulouse. It’s home to the goose and the grape, sumptuous foiegras, the mysterious black truffle and world famous Agen prunes. There are miles of walnut groves and, most important of all, acres of vines. The author introduces us to some colourful local characters, freezes from the kneecaps down whilst braving the famous winter truffle market in Lalbenque, throws herself with Gallic gusto into numerous fetes and uncovers traces of the luminaries who once called this place home. From Champollion, who translated the Rosetta stone, to the illustrious Eleanor of Aquitaine, whose marriage to Henry Plantagenet brought the area to the English crown.

Ideal winter reading in the UK, conjuring up the warmth and richness of life in South West France.

For more info – White Stone, Black Wine: OR get an Amazon Gift Certificates.

The Truffle Market in Lalbenque (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) takes place every Tuesday from the first Tuesday in December through to mid-March. For more info see www.lalbenque.net

For more on Quercy on FrenchDuck see http://frenchduck.com

It can be a bit of a surprise to discover just how cosmopolitan rural France can be – a tribute to its sheer attractiveness to many nations – so a small hotel/B&B run by a Dane and a New Zealander in a French chateau near Bordeaux could be an interesting combination with an intriguing mix of cultures and traditions. Situated in Meihan (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) within easy reach of St Emilion and the other less-pictureseque Bordeaux vineyards – and the vineyards of the Cotes du Marmandais and Cotes de Duras.

Chez Kelly is a Hip-Chic-Boutique hotel particuliere…in a chateau, appealing to discerning customers who enjoy a unique and discrete holiday experience in premium surroundings. Located in the famous 15th century “Chateau de Sauvin” bordering the Canal du Lateral, nearby the Garonne river and medieval town of Meilhan, the Chez Kelly concept is a mix of classic French and contemporary Scandinavian design.

Unlike other B+B offerings, hosts Brendan and Keld encourage guests to relax around the pool, play tennis, boules or billiards in the lounges, terraces and parklands enjoying “hotel like” daytime residency, without the maddening crowd. This is typified by the “New Zealand” friendly, casual style coupled with “Danish” reserve and respect for the privacy of our guests, making Chez Kelly your “home” for a holiday experience. The accommodation looks very stylish – a long way from the normal rustic French tradition. They clearly offer a different approach including “table d’hote” dining with style.

Being in the centre of some serious wine-making regions they are also offering an opportunity to get really involved with the wine harvest in September/October – so instead of just drinking wine; what about actually participating in the harvest, picking the grapes, be a part of the process! Learn a bit more about winemaking, get to know some of the local wines and have a good time to boot! The region also looks stunning as the early autumn colours start to kick in.

What are we offering? – Depending on the length of stay and picking days, we will arrange for you to spend 1-2 mornings picking grapes on one of our selected vineyards followed by participation in their harvest lunch. In addition we can arrange tasting sessions in different wine regions (we have Marmandais, Duras, Graves et Sauternes, Buzet and St Emilion all within 60km), a gourmet tour of a foie gras producer and a specialty oils producer. We can even arrange a chauffer driven service if you want to cut loose.

Chez Kelly, Château de Sauvin (off the D113) Meilhan, 47180

from 11-14 September 2008

The name Salies comes from the “Sel” in the naturally ocurring saline water of the area, which is famous as a Spa town. The local salt is an important contribution to the quality of the waters, and is also used in the local cuisine and for curing meats. As often is the case in France, worthies are invited to join the Jurade du Sel

The Bearn region also gives its name to Bearnaise Sauce which is a sauce made of clarified butter and egg yolks flavored with tarragon, shallots, chervil and tarragon – served with steak.

www.tourisme-bearn-gaves.com/

Several major extensions of the network include:-

Tours to Bordeaux via Poitiers and Angouleme, bringing Bordeaux within 2 hours of Paris. Utlimately the high speed line will extend south to Bayonne and into Spain!

Le Mans to Rennes in Brittany – bringing Brest within 3 hours of Paris!

Bordeaux to Toulouse in South West France, reducing the travel time to 1 hour!

Marseille to Nice will complete the line to Provence and the Côte d’Azur

Montpellier to Perpignan and on to Barcelona in Spain!

It’s a great example of why domestic air travel in France becomes less and less viable with city centre to city centre times such as these in the offing – speedy and green!
You can book any train journey to and within France including Eurostar, TGV and local lines through RailEurope

However, my knowledge and passion for the region is completely overshadowed by Phil Hargreaves and his new book The Wines of Bergerac. This is a comprehensive and authorative guide to the 13 appellations (including Montravel, Pecharmant, Rosette, Monbazillac and Saussignac)and to ove 90 producers, each of which has a full page full of details of location, opening times, the nature of the “terroir”, how the grapes are grown and how the wine is made – plus details of UK stockists, contact details and tasting notes!

This has clearly been a labour of love, as I cannot imagine that anyone could do justice to more than a couple of vineyards a day to produce this amount of reliable detail -as always I checked out his entries on domaines which I know well such as Chateau Grinou, Chateau Haut Garrigue and Chateau Beauportail, and the entries are spot on! I share his affection for the Merlot and Cabernet reds, Sauvignon and Semillon dry and sweeter whites. His secret has been his career as a linguist and wine merchant – but also his sheer enthusiasm for the wines of Bergerac.

“..my love affair with the Dordogne started some 40 years ago when I was a student in Perigueux in 1968 . A few years later, my late father-in-law introduced me to the wines of Cahors and Bergerac and the seed was sown for an interest in wines that would lead to twenty years in the wine trade and ultimately, this little book.
1 have personally visited the vast majority of the producers in this guide and wines from every
winernaker included have been tasted by myself and my tasting team, drawn from friends and
colleagues at the Hengate Wine School and the Premier Cru Wine Club, based in Beverley,
East Yorkshire. I have resisted the temptation to give wines a star rating as I recognise that
taste in wine is a very personal thing and it does not pay to be too dogmatic. However, I hope
the tasting comments will help you establish which wines will most appeal to you.

There’s plenty of background to the region and its wines in addition to the individual producers’ pages, which makes the book both readable and an indispensible guide to visiting the region and its vineyards – I will certainly be taking a copy with me on my next trip to the Dordogne!

For more info on Phil Hargreaves, Hengate Wine School and the book “The Wines of Bergerac” see www.hengatewineschool.co.uk

The official launch of new guide “The Wines of Bergerac” will take place on Friday 26 September at 6 p.m. at Beverley Arms Hotel, Beverley, East Yorkshire. Book signing and free Bergerac tasting – see www.hengatewineschool.co.uk

A visit to Chateau Grinou (Monestier, 24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) south west of Bergerac, always takes longer than planned, and I always learn more than I expect.

On this ocassion it was to discover that Chateau Grinou is going organic! Now, whilst Guy Cuisset has a genuine concern for the well-being of the local environment and takes seriously his responsibilities as the current steward of the land and the flora and fauna of the domaine, he is no “tree-hugger”. His primary passion is to produce excellent wines. He does not compromise that objective, especially as there are so many other obstacles (weather, pest, disease) and constraints (bureaucratic, legal, financial) in the way. He is convinced that this approach, whilst being a good investment in the future health and viability of the vineyard, will produce better wines – wines which are more intense and show more of the real fruit character of the grape. The wines will evolve over the next few years as new techniques and fewer artificial interventions make subtle changes to the resulting wines.

The latest visit also included a walk through the vines, which demonstrate the complexity of the challenge. Every year is different, and every one of the 365 days of the year will be distinctively different from this year to last or next. This Spring was seriously wet with heavy downpours and sodden soil. This was followed by some very hot dry weather which dried the topsoil to an almost impenetrable concrete layer – making life very difficult when trying to get rid of the weeds between the vines – esepcially now that he can no longer apply selective weedkillers to deal with the problem.

Further on, he shows me his latest innovation – an organic water treatment plant – which collects all the waste water from the winery and treats it organically and aerobically before letting it flow into the local water course. It’s impressive with its bubbling air pumping through the water and the reed bed to filter the run-off. It may be a requirement of the EU, but few other vineyards are following his example.

It is easy to forget amongst all the hype, marketing and packaging that wine is an agricultural product, and that the winemaker is a farmer with his roots in the soil and environment of his domaine – he can see the benefits to local wildlife (some welcome, others not so), and recognises that his future and that of future generations is intimately invested in the “terroir” which makes his wines what they are.

Unfortunately the new Sauvingon Blanc (Bergerac Sec AC) is not yet available in the UK, so all the more reason to pay a visit to the domaine. English is spoken, but do not expect a fancy tasting room with award certificates, old barrels or ancient vineyard equipment – a plastic table in the middle of the stainless steel cuves is all you’ll get – plus a chance to taste some excellent wines and a small slice of Guy’s enthusiasm to take away!

For more info on Chateau Grinou and UK stockists – see www.frenchduck.co.uk/grinou.html

The port cities of Bordeaux and Bristol both played a distinguished role in the history of the wine trade, such that even in the 13th century more than 85 per cent of all imported wine came from South West France and as much as 3,000 tons (750,000 gallons) was being landed in Bristol.
The trade with Bordeaux fluctuated, dependent on our relationship with France (war, peace, occupation) but key names in the UK wine trade were established in Bristol, such as Harveys and Averys. Both Bristol and Bordeaux have the advantaghe that navigable rivers reach right into the heart of the city. In Bordeaux the “Quai des Chartrons” on the Garonne river front. In 2007 the cities of Bristol and Bordeaux celebrated the 60th Anniversary of their twinning.

Sadly little there remains little of that trade physically – no cargo ships leave the Chartrons quayside, and in Bristol only Averys of the long-established merchants remains in the city centre.
However, all that could change with a shipping company (CTMV – Compagnie de Transport Maritime a Voile) starting to use sailing ships to transport wine from Bordeaux, initially to Ireland, but later to Bristol. Initial consignments are of Languedoc wines, which are initially transported by barge on the Canal du Midi to Bordeaux and then loaded onto the sailing ship Belem for the 4-5 day crossing to Ireland. This trip with a load of 60,000 bottles will save over 18,000 lbs of carbon emissions – so a veritable eco-friendly wine.

UPDATE

The Telegraph (25 July 2008) has a report on the same company bringing a “Green Energy” wine to Ireland:-

The first commercial cargo of wine shipped from France by sail since the late 1800s arrived in Ireland on Friday aboard a British schooner, with almost zero petrol costs and carbon emissions.
Some 30,000 bottles of “green energy” wine, arrived in Dublin aboard the 108-year old Kathleen and May – the last wooden hull three-masted topsail schooner in existence – after leaving Brest a week ago with a stop at Penzance.

Each bottle carried has saved 4.9 oz of carbon dioxide emissions compared with a regular shipment. The wines come with the label: “Carried by sailing ship, a better deal for the planet.”

Furthermore the return trip is planned to be with an equivalent cargo of crushed glass for re-making into wine bottles back in France – sounds clever to me!

It promises to be fun – plus there are plenty of good winemakers in the area.

For more info see www.pays-de-bergerac.com 

The Peppers of Espelette are recognised with Appellation Controllee status. Needing a lot of sun and heat to ripen, the peppers are traditionally woven into garlands and hund from the roofs of houses throughout the town to dry. So, the town is decorated with garlands of bright red peppers, and there are stands offering a whole range of gastronomic delights based on the fiery pepper – plus music, feasting etc – all with a Basque accent.!

For more info see www.pimentdespelette.com

The Bristol Wine and Food Fair (11-13 July 2008) seems to have been a great success – lots of interest and many interesting exhibitors, including the English-owned vineyard at Domaine Chater in the Côtes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine):-

Domaine Chater is a small vineyard that nestles in the rolling hills around the historic town of Duras in South-West France. We are passionate about making great wines and no compromises are made in the vineyard or the winery. Our white wines are refreshing and full of fruit while our reds are complex with layers of fruit and spice. Our range of wines has already won a huge amount of international recognition.

Although they only began producing wine in 2004, they have enjoyed significant success in gaining recognition for the quality of their wines. The Cotes de Duras is particularly renown for its Sauvignon Blancs, which they do indeed produce good Sauvignon, but unusually for the region their Cabernet and Merlot reds have drawn most praise:-

….two styles of red wines are produced at Domaine Chater; traditional (a majority of the wine aged in our stainless steel tanks) and oak aged (made from old vines and aged in 100% French Oak). Our traditional wines have the emphasis upon rich fruit flavours with subtle tannins and are great with red meat dishes. Chater oak aged wines are made with 40-year old vines and barrel-aged for 12 months in French oak barrels with one-third of the barrels being renewed every year – producing complex wines with layers of fruit, liquorice and spice. Great with red meat and rich sauces.

Importantly their wines are consistently rated by the Guide Hachette des Vins de France - what many consider to be the French wine bible, as entries are secured by blind tastings rather than paid adverts.

You can order online direct from France as they have a UK warehouse – and you can visit the domaine in St Sernin-de-Duras – just give them a call beforehand to ensure someone is around.

Domaine Chater
Vignoble de la Lègue, 47120 St Sernin de Duras, France (see map)
T:0033 553 64 67 14
Email: info@domainechater.com

For more info on the Côtes de Duras wine region see www.cotesdeduras.com

For the diary; Domaine Chater will be at the Duras Wine Festival on 10 August 2008 – see www.paysdeduras.com

Bayonne is ablaze in red & white with everyone dressed in the traditional white shirts and trousers and red neckerchiefs and sashes. The festival opens on the Wednesday night at 10p.m. in the town Hall square. The mythical King Leon of Bayonne appears on the balcony and celebrates his return by throwing the symbolic keys of the town to the crowd. Music, shouts and colours invade the town centre. Les Fêtes de Bayonne is the most important moment of the year for the inhabitants…no one would miss it !!! If you come to the Festival, you’ll enjoy the incredible atmosphere and enthusiasm, running of the young bulls, bullfights, bandas (music bands) in the streets …

Created in 1932, the frequentation to the festival is rising every year with people coming from all over France and beyond.

On the last night, people gather once again in front of the town hall to sing the farewell hymn “Pobre de mi”, which also closes the Pamplona San Fermin Festival.

For more info on Bayonne see www.bayonne-tourisme.com

These links were strengthened during the Spanish Civil War when many refugees sought sanctuary in the region and were welcomed. The traditions of bull-fighting, music and dance were keenly integrated in different areas. The Basque country traditions naturally span the border on the Atlantic side, but also Catalan and other influences have spread to the east.

Mont-de-Marsan (40 Landes, Aquitaine) holds its Arte Flamenco Festival from 7–12 July 2008.

A €13.00 euro (£11) wine pass will buy you 12 wine tastings, while a €70 euro (£58) pass will cover access to nine tasting routes through the region’s vineyards, spread over the four days. So you can choose between St Emilion, the Medoc, Sauternes and Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers PLUS trips to explore the wines of BERGERAC and COTES DE DURAS.
Within the city there will be plenty of opportunities to celebrate, taste and learn. Discover the nuances of the region and the wide range of wines, styles and prices which are on offer. It’s not all finest vintage, wallet-busting stuff, but some really good value interesting wines.

Amongst the other attractions (beyond the City itself with its rich history and cultural heritage) there will be barrel-rolling competition, numerous parades by different wine guilds, music, dancing, a food and wine village – every day there will be racing on the river with some of the old boats which used to bring the wine into Bordeaux and up the Gironde and onto ocean-going ships for export; and a competition to swin across the Gironde – definitiely not recommended if you have been imbibing!

For more info see www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com

You can book direct with Rail Europe for Eurostar and TGV tickets from London to Bordeaux

You can now enjoy a one of these very French machines by hiring one for a day or half-day in St Omer (62 Pas-de-Calais, Nord Pas-de-Calais).

Les Belles Echappees also hire out Citroen 2CVs, tandems and trikes and offer a number of packages which can include route suggestions, restaurant and hotel combinations etc.

Les Belles Echappées invite you to a journey off the beaten track in search of simple pleasures connected with emotion and collective memory.

You can find a video showing the 2CVs in action on You Tube Les Belles Echappees translates as a good time or break!

Les Belles Echappees, Chemin des murs, Ferme de l’Abbaye – 62500 CLAIRMARAIS
Tél : 03.21.98.11.72

There are other options for raking to the road “a la francaise” – e.g. the 2CV tours of Paris with 4 roues sous un Parapluie (4 wheels under 1 umbrella); Or hire a classic Citroen TA in the Loire Valley with Quart de Tours (37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre)

Further south Joffreny Tours offer classic and modern British cars (and others) for touring the French countryside from their base near Chalus (87 Haut Vienne, Limousin) – although helpfully they have an office in the UK

Lots to do and see – Hire a classic standard MGB Roadster, a V8 MGB Roadster, a BMW Z3 Roadster or a Triumph Stag (soft-top or hard-top) and take off on a sightseeing tour of the Limousin, Charente and Dordogne, in west central France, with all of its historic towns and picturesque chateaux, and sample some of the fine food and wine along the way. This is beautiful touring country and there are very few cars on the road…

As well as delivering to private customers in the UK, we supply some of the country’s leading chefs: our Bordeaux Blanc has been the house wine at all Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants for eight consecutive vintages and a bespoke Bauduc red is the top selling wine in his three Michelin star establishment – still the only London restaurant with that accolade. Our white is also a ‘special selection’ at Rick Stein’s.

Since they bought the Chateau in 1999 the reputation of the Chateau has grown, not an easy task in the competitive marketplace that is Bordeaux. There is a 4-bedroom farmhouse on the estate which

…. is rented out on a weekly basis, overlooks the vineyards and backs on to the farm buildings and chais where the wine is made and aged. This 18th century stone dwelling was completely restored in 2002 with painstaking attention to detail and is a great place to spend a week or two in lovely surroundings.

For more details see www.bauduc.com
Chateau Bauduc, Creon 33670, France T: 00 33 (0)5 56 23 06 05 Email: team@bauduc.com

It is hardly surprising then that a substantial proportion of the hundreds of thousands of Brits who own French property have been tempted by the apparently bucolic life of a vigneron……
Are there any French winemakers left down there?
I asked Walter McKinlay, whose Domaine de Mourchon southern Rhône wines are some of the most successful from a British domaine, whether his Domaine de Mourchon wines were financially viable. He frowned. “Just about,” he said cautiously, then smiled. “But it’s a lovely lifestyle though.”

My own observation would be that it can be incredibly hard work and despite the attractions of the climate, landscape and the French way of life, it can also be very stressful. And as with all winemakers, a bad harvest, particularly in the early years can be devastating.

So, here’s our list of British vineyard owners (and 1 Irish couple) – that we are aware of (not an exhaustive list I am sure). Visits can be much more informative if the language is no barrier:-

Domaine de Laroux – Cotes de Gascogne, Armagnac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) – Nick and Karen Kitchener
Chateau Haut Garrigue - Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Sean and Caroline Feely (the Irish couple running an organic vineyard also known as Wild Earth Vineyards)
Domaine de Fontenay – Cote Roannaise AC (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) – Simon and Isabelle Hawkins

Chateau Richard – Bergerac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Richard Doughty

Domaine de Merchien – Coteaux du Quercy and beer! (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees – David & Sarah Meakin

Clos d’Yvigne – Cotes de Bergeac, Saussignac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – Patricia Atkinson

Chateau des Milles Anges – Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Cadillac AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Heather van Ekris

Chateau Lezongars - Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Philip and Sarah Iles

Chateau Teyssier – Saint Emilion Grand Cru AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Jonathan and Lyn Maltus

Chateau de Sours – Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Esme & Sara Johnson

Domaine Gourdon – Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) – John Coulthard
Domaine du Grand Mayne – Cotes de Duras AC (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) – Andrew Gordon
Domaine de Begude – Limoux AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Catherine and James Kinglake
Domaine de Mourchon – Cotes du Rhone Seguret AC (84 Vaucluse, Provence) – Walter McKinley
Maison des Bulliats – Regnie AC Beaujolais (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) – Fred and Helen Lockwood
Chateau Méaume – Bordeaux Superieure AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill

Domaine a Sauvageonne – Coteaux du Languedoc AC, Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc – Roussillon) – Gavin Crisfield

Domaine Sainte Rose – Vin de Pays d’Oc (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Charles and Ruth Simpson

Chateau Bauduc - Bordeaux AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Gavin and Angela Quinney

Domaine Sainte Croix - Corbieres AC (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) – Jon & Elizabeth Bowen

Chateau Monplaisir – Bergerac AC (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) – David and Helen Baxter

Chateau du Seuil  – Graves AC (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) – Sean and Nicola Allison

However on 8 May 2008 you could indulge in a full day ramble of about 5 miles around the 5 organic vIneyards with the opportunity to taste on the way! Take a picnic lunch and it could be a wonderful day – accompanied by winemakers and finishing at Chateau Haut-Garrigue aka Wild Earth Vineyards run by an Irish couple, Sean and Caroline Feely:-

Saussignac Dessert Wine Seduction 2006 The saussignac botrytis dessert wine is truly a labour of love. The yield from a hectare of Saussignac is about 25% of the yield the same hectare would deliver of dry white. Unfortunately the price is never 4 times but fools like us continue to make it because it is truly exquisite. The grapes are hand-picked (sometimes individually) and deliver up a juice that is golden and heavenly. Once fermented a complex set of aromas develop… I’ll let our tasters give us an inkling of the future… Tasting Notes June 2007: Golden and unctuous. Honey, passion fruit and a hint of almond on the nose. Notes of honeysuckle and orange blossom. Apricot and passion fruit the palate with an intense, long finish. Our tasters also wrote ‘Outstanding’ & ‘this is a €100 a bottle wine’

For more info on the walk see www.hautgarrigue.com

The event takes place on Sunday 18 May 2008 and includes a banquet, sheep dog demos, “meet the sheep”, sheep shearing, a Spring market, boat trips, an art exhibition and a chance to buy a beret!

Lamb is a specialty of the area, as there are marshy areas near the river which are totally unsuitable for vines, but excellent for rearing saltmarsh lamb. It makes Pauillac quite a contradiction and rather more lively than much of the Medoc – especially as there is the incongruity of an industrial port and oil terminal juxtaposed with some of the most valuable and celebrated vineyards on the planet.

For more info see www.pauillac-medoc.com