Over in Alsace, the Hugel family are producing a daily video diary of the 2009 harvest, so that you can see the process and get some insight into the 2009 vintage potential. Hugel is one of the top names in Alsace and produce some really excellent wines. So far everything is looking very promising with ideal conditions for autumn weather and the condition of the vines – see http://blog.hugel.com/en/harvest/

Some of Hugel’s range can be found in the UK at Adnams and other independent wine merchants.

Alsace on the eastern border with Germany is a surprising region – sheltered from oceanic influence by the Vosges mountains, the Alsace wine region enjoys some of the lowest rainfall in France (just 400-500mm or 16-20 inches per year) and is blessed with a semi-continental climate—sunny, warm and dry. The key varietals – Gewurztraminer and  Riesling produced here can be extraordinarily intense and elegant, and despite the Germanic shape of the bottle (and often the labels too) the wines are dry (unless they are late harvest versions) – for more info on Alsace wines see www.vinsalsace.com/

There are numerous starting points ranging from Oslo to Barcelona and Turin. finally coming together for the last section down across the Alps to Monte Carlo. Strasbourg, Reims, Perpignan, Narbonne, Beaune and Avignon are all on one of the various routes which the classic cars will pass through – the cars all being models which participated in the Monte Carlo Rally proper between 1955 and 1980.

Over 120 cars will leave the Cathedral Square in Reims on the evening of Friday 30 January 2009.

For more info see www.acm.mc

For Reims see www.reims-tourism.com/

In a breathtaking position in front of Strasbourg Cathedral, this is one of the largest Christmas markets in France. The original “Christkindelsmärik” is in Strasbourg and dates back to 1570. It is dedicated to culinary delights and Christmas decorations and takes place at the Place Brogile. In its 431st year, this market in Alsace is the oldest Christmas market in France. Do not miss La Petite France, a cosy neighborhood of timbered fairy-tale buildings with Christmas shops and a gingerbread bakery.

Strasbourg adorns itself in its very best finery. Lights sparkle throughout the city and the atmosphere is one of meeting friends and sharing the festive spirit. Mulled wine is sampled in front of the opera or the cathedral, arms are laden with a hundred and one gifts and children are the centre of the celebrations.

From the Place de la Gare where visitors flock in their thousands into the city, to the historic heart of the city in Petite France; from the Place de la Cathédrale to Place Broglie, historic sites of the Christmas market; from Place Kléber where the Christmas Tree majestically towers over shoppers, to Place d’Austerlitz, transformed into a “Forêt de Délices” (Forest of Delights); tastes and scents mingle with sweet Christmas music, inviting visitors to enter a world of dreams.

For more info see www.noel-strasbourg.com

For a full list of Christmas Markets in Alsace see http://noel.tourisme-alsace.com

However, given free choice I would probably recommend Colmar, It is smaller than Strasbourg, but that makes it more intimate and atmospheric. It is also a very attractive town with its canals and timbered building  – and is in the heart of the Alsace wine region.

Colmar Christmas Market (Haut-Rhin, Alsace) runs from 22 Nov to 31 Dec 2008.

The annual Colmar Christmas market is regarded as one of the most unusual French markets with its special character. It takes place in the Old Town at 5 various venues: Petite Venise for children, Place des Dominicains, Place de l’Ancienne Douane, Place Jeanne d’Arc and inside the Koifhus, the old customs house.

The magic of Christmas in Colmar, first of all there’s the ambiance of the Old Town, illuminated and decorated like a fairy tale : a historic setting made magical by the Christmas illuminations which, in this festive period, blend harmoniously with the wonderful lighting designed to enhance the town’s heritage, and lay a soothing aura of light over the centre of Colmar.
Town centre which is essentially pedestrian, comprises numerous architectural treasures such as monuments, churches, museums and alleys, built for the most imposing from Middle Age to 19th century. Do not miss to be amazed by the Maison Pfister, the Koïfhus, Unterlinden museum, Little Venice, the House of the Heads and Saint Martin Collegiate church.
The whole town is decorated like a dream to turn the old centre into a veritable open-air theatre where the warm Christmas mood envelops the heart of the town

For more info see www.noel-colmar.com

Set in the historic heart of the city Mulhouse is the home to an impressive Christmas Market that has maintained its authenticity in a prestigious setting on the Place de la Réunion. Mulhouse offers a typical Alsatian market with half-timbered stalls featuring exceptional fabric and other French products. Sip spice-scented mulled wine and nibble on festive gormet treats such as “bredele” (small typically Alsatian cakes) or Christmas biscuits whilst shopping.

Mulhouse has a tradition of producing high quality fabrics and every year a special Christmas fabric inspired by the collections kept at the Museum of Printing Fabrics is produced to dress the City Hall and façades of the Place de la Réunion, the pedestrian streets and chalets on the Christmas market.

In the historical centre of Mulhouse there will be a traditional Hungarian Village of Arts and Crafts.
Customs and traditions of the “Pearl of the Danube” will have the place of honor. Let yourself be tempted by the pleasures and wealth of the Hungarian culture. (only until 21 Dec 08)

For more info see www.tourisme-mulhouse.com

With lots of razzamataz, commercial sponsorship, scandal and sporting achievement, it is a spectacle well worth seeing – especially as it is free. However, the downside is that the Tour can cause major disruption with roads closed for hours, hordes of people and traffic – and all hotel rooms along the route booked.
In 2009 the tour starts in Monaco on 4 July 2009, travels down the Mediterranean coast into Spain to Barcelona – then up through Andorra to the Pyrenees. With a skip to Central France the route heads east through northern Burgundy to Alsace, south the the Alpes and then heads for Paris and the final stage which finishes on the Champs Elysees on 26 July 2009.
Sat 4 July Monaco
Sun 5 July Monaco > Brignoles
Mon 6 July Marseille > La Grande-Motte
Tue 7 July Montpellier
Wed 8 July Le Cap d’Agde > Perpignan
Thu 9 July Gérona > Barcelona (Spain)
Fri 10 July Barcelona > Andorra
Sat 11 July Andorra> Saint-Girons
Sun 12 July Saint-Gaudens > Tarbes
Mon 13 July rest day – Limoges
Tue 14 July Limoges > Issoudun
Wed 15 July Vatan > Saint-Fargeau
Thu 16 July Tonnerre > Vittel
Fri 17 July Vittel > Colmar
Sat 18 July Colmar > Besançon
Sun 19 July Pontarlier > Verbier
Mon 20 July rest day – Verbier
Tue 21 July Martigny > Bourg-Saint-Maurice
Wed 22 July Bourg-Saint-Maurice > Le Grand-Bornand
Thu 23 July Annecy > Annecy
Fri 24 July Bourgoin-Jallieu > Aubenas
Sat 25 July Montélimar > Mont Ventoux
Sun 26 July Montereau-Fault-Yonne > Paris Champs-Élysées

For more info on the Tour de France see www.letour.fr

….It’s good to visit them, too, to get to grips with the subject properly. They need all the allies they can get in the battle against industrial dairy plastic. They’re also to be found in some of the remotest, greenest and loveliest bits of France. Here are five of our favourites. All have an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), which, as with wine, means that the item has to come from where it has always come from and be made as it has always been made. All will be glad to see you (and your money). Naturally, they might still drive you crackers with purple prose. You’ll just have to live with that. We’re travelling north to south.

So his tour encompasses Camembert (61 Orne, Normandy), Munster (68 Haut Rhin, Alsace), Epoisses (21 Cote d’Or, Burgundy), Comté (39 Jura, Franche-Comté) and the Auvergne which includes Saint Nectaire (63 Puy de Dome, Auvergne) – all of which are in beautiful parts of France and well worth a visit.

In the Auvergne there is a signposted Cheese route (Route des Fromages) - you can download a map and details at www.fromages-aoc-auvergne.com

In the Jura there is a Cheese Trail - details of creameries and farms open to visitors can be seen at www.lesroutesducomte.com

If you cannot get out to the farm, then these are French Cheese shops we can recommend:-

Fromagerie Marie-Anne Cantin, 12 rue du Champ de Mars PARIS – just off rue Cler in the 7th arrondisement – an overwhelming selection of delicious cheeses – very professional but also very helpful – also run tasting sessions.

To guide you in this wide field of cheese gastronomy Marie Anne Cantin and her husband Antoine Dias offer you tasting sessions.
According to the seasons , they will have you discover the different families of cheeses, their history, their making process , their character and particular flavour. You will learn how to choose your cheeses, eat, present and keep them.

Cremerie Marty Patrick, 160 rue Nationale CAHORS (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) – excellent choice, also includes butter, cream and fresh pasta (see video)

It all started in Paris with the Velib’ Scheme – an amalgam of Velo (cycle) and Liberte (free), which has been a tremendous success.

Vélib’ is a Self Service “bike hire” system available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Multi pick up and drop off location allows you to pick up your bike from one service point and drop off to another.

You need to subscribe, but for visitors there are 1-day and 7-day subscriptions and after the first 30 minutes you pay by the half-hour – e.g. a 90-minute hire will cost just €3 and you can pick up and drop off your bike at any of the hundreds of self-service stations across the city.

The Velib’ scheme has been based on a similar scheme VeloV in Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) France’s second city. The combination of these eco-friendly and fitness focussed schemes is now spreading throughout France:-
VeloCite in Mulhouse (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace) and Besancon (25 Doubs, Franche-Comté)
Vhello in Aix-en-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence)
Le Velo in Marseille (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence)
Velo in Toulouse (34 Haut Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees)
Nantes (44 Loire-Atlantique, Val de Loire)
Rouen (76 Seine Maritime, Normandy)
Bordeaux (33 Gironde, Aquitaine)
Velostan in Nancy (54 Meurthe et Moselle, Lorraine)
Velo+ in Orleans (45 Loiret, Centre)
Velomagg in Montpellier (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon)

This is clearly a popular scheme, mainly aimed at local residents but may also offer a different way of seeing some of France’s major cities from a different perspective. However, I would recommend choosing a city with good cycle lanes and paths – you do get the impression that traffic in many of France’s cities is not very forgiving with errant cyclists – so do not try cycling around the rond-point of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris!!

Inevitably there are some urban myths developing – such as the fact that there are always plenty of bikes at the bottom of the Butte de Montmartre, but none at the top – for obvious reasons. And you can get caught out in busy locations if you cannot find an empty slot in which to return your bike!

Buy at AllPosters.com

Information on domestic flights in France is not easy to come by, one reason being that Air France has such a dominant position in France and already have flights on most internal routes.
Plus the French market is not as competitive. The French Railway system between major cities is both fast and competitive, especially if starting from Paris.
I have only been able to uncover a couple of airlines which offer domestic flights in France:-
http://www.easyjet.com/ – Toulouse to Lyon, Paris, Nice to Paris; Lyon to Biarritz, Bordeaux; Biarritz to Paris

http://www.twinjet.net/
Toulouse (32 Haute-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) to Metz/Nancy, Mulhouse, Brest; Marseille to Metz/Nancy, Mulhouse; Paris - Perigueux, Cherbourg

http://www.airlinair.fr/ Brest,(29 Finistere, Brittany) Bordeaux (33 Gironde, Aquitaine), Agen (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine), Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes), Poitiers (86 Vienne, Poitou-Charentes), Brive (19 Correze, Limousin) Beziers (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) etc

http://www.ryanair.com/ now also has links from Marseille (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) to Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas de Calais) and Brest (29 Finistere, Brittany)

You can try sites like http://www.expedia.fr/ but even a price comparison site like http://www.baisse-de-prix.com/voyages.php seems to offer little new – it looks like Air France have cornered the market with little opportunity for discounting.

It’s a bit of a “marmite” car – you either love it or hate it – but it was nevertheless a most successful car getting many French people on the road with something that was functional and economic. It remains popular and is so evocative of France – just add a Gauloise cigarette and a beret and you have the image of France in the second half of the 20th Century.

There is a charming video advertisement for the 2CV which is worth watching at
www.youtube.com

There is also a 2CV Museum in Alsace – “Created in 1998 by the Alsace Club 2CV, the museum aims to show visitors one of the greatest legends of the French car industry. The exhibition is dedicated to all people, children and adults, 2CV enthousiasts, 2CV friends or the curious. The museum wants to show the car that Citroën conceived and sold for 42 years but also wants to show the place that the car takes in people’s hearts and imaginations.- open every Saturday of the year. Entrance is free.

Musée de la 2CV, Route du Donon, Grandfontaine (67 Bas Rhin, Alsace)

The atmosphere which reigns in Strasbourg is unique. It is especially in the late afternoon, just as night is falling, that the magic sets in, as if the city, suddenly conscious of scene. There are also many treats to feast ourselves on : sweets, mulled wine, doughnuts…

For good measure, a giant Christmas tree is planted in Place Kleber, there are concerts, giving you a chance to appreciate the beauty of the cathedral and the city’s churches, and a whole host of activities allowing you to discover the rich Alsatian traditions. As for the children, they will love the delightful boat ride through the city.

This year it runs from 24 November to 31 December 2007,
For more info see www.ot-strasbourg.com

Kirsch is made from pressing the fruit, adding the ground cherry stones and allowing it all to ferment. The stones add a characteristically bitter note to the spirit, and also contain minute quantities of cyanide! The liquid is then heated in a still to distill the alcoholic spirit and then aged for a short time in glass “bonbons” or steel or earthenware vats so that the spirit remains colourless.

Often used as to provide an additional punch to desserts, it can also be taken lightly chilled as a refreshing after-dinner tipple – but preferably in small quantities.

This is one of those lesser-known parts of France – not really on any of the main routes to anywhere, and the proximity of the Vosges mountains limits a speedy transit of the region. But it may well be worth visiting in early July for the annual Fete des Cerises which celebrates the beginning of the harvest – or in September there is an annual fair of Cherry Dougnuts (Foire aux Beignets de Cerises) and Kirsch tastings which sounds like fun. (held on 21 September in 2008)

For more info see http://www.otsi-fougerolles.net

Regional influences
Each region of France has ingredients, recipes and style of cooking specific to that region. Although they may be exported to other regions of France (and the world), production is largely local and consumption is highest in the region of origin. For example, in Provence the food typically features olive oil, herbs and tomatoes; these are all locally produced and they feature in a surprising large variety of different recipes.
The evolution of regional cooking styles has been influenced by:
• Local availability. The French, a nation of gourmets, prefer to use local ingredients. Consequently, coastal regions (such as Brittany and Normandy, on the northwest coast of France) will favor sea fish and will use it more often and in more varied ways than inland areas. Likewise, areas where fruit or herbs grow easily, will incorporate these into their local cuisine.
• Neighbouring countries and immigration. Near the borders with other countries, the local cuisine incorporates certain dishes and ingredients of the neighbouring countries. It is not surprising to find Italian dishes near the Italian border. More notably, the French region of Alsace is similar to Germany in its food (sauerkraut is popular) and wine, partly due to it currently bordering on Germany and partly due to it having been part of Germany at various points in its history (the border has moved back and forth with various wars). In parts of the south which have a large North African immigrant population one can enjoy the cuisine which they have imported from their original countries.
• History and economic conditions. The culture, lifestyle and economic conditions over a long period of time have formed the development of local food traditions. The rich meat dishes and cream sauces of Burgundy are not only due to Burgundian excellence in raising cattle, but in large part to the economic prosperity of this region over several centuries. On the other hand, mountain regions excel in firm cheeses, which allow food to be preserved over the long and difficult winters, and can be produced from mountain livestock which historically were the main means of support for many families in economically limited areas.
Of course, throughout France one can find a range of dishes, both in restaurants and at home, which extends well beyond regional specialities. However, at the same time, the regional influences in terms of ingredients and style of cooking is marked. Consequently, for those who move to France, the choice of region will influence the types of food one will find.
Italian Influence
Culinary historians generally associate the development of high cuisine in France (as opposed to the existing rural traditions) with the marriage in 1533 of Catherine De Medicis (a Florentine princess) to Henry duc d’Orleans (who became King Henry II or France). At this point, France was not know for its food or food culture. Catherine brought an entourage of Italian chefs with her to France, who introduced to France a variety of dishes, food preparation and dining practices. Although France and Italy obviously have evolved very different food cultures, both before and since this contribution, much of France’s current food culture can be traced back to this time.

Cooking styles
As discussed above, each region of France has its own distinctive traditions in terms of ingredients and preparation. On top of this, there are three general approaches which compete with each other:
• Classical French cuisine (also known in France as cuisine bourgeoise). This includes all the classical French dishes which were at one time regional, but are no longer specifically regional. Food is rich and filling, with many dishes using cream-based sauces.
• Haute cuisine is classical French cuisine taken to its most sophisticated and extreme. Food is elegant, elaborate and generally rich. Meals tend to be heavy, especially due to the use of cream and either large portions or many smaller portions. There is a strong emphasis on presentation (in particular, vegetables tend to be cut with compulsive precision and uniformity). The finest ingredients are used, and the meal is correspondingly expensive.
• Cuisine Nouvelle. This style developed in the 1970s, as a reaction against the classical school of cooking. The food is simpler and lighter. Portions are smaller and less rich; the heavy cream sauces of the classical approach are particularly avoided. Cooking is less elaborate and quicker, with more emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients.
• Cuisine du terroir. This focuses on regional specialities and is somewhat more rustic in nature. Local produce and food traditions are the main focus.
Each of these traditions is strongly represented in France, each having its supporters and specialist restaurants. At the moment, Cuisine Nouvelle is less popular than it was, while Cuisine du terroir has grown in popularity in recent years.
For more on French Food see Doug Stweart’s site at www.france-property-and-information.com/easy-french-food-recipes.htm

The artist Margaret Loxton is very English, and very Yorkshire – as is her style, but she has neverthess produced some very atmospheric images of France, and particularly French rural life. With her buxom men and women it may be a style you love or hate, but these pictures are so French they could not be anywhere else.

She has a whole series of scenes, including wine-related ones such as the Pavement Café in Riquewihr (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace) shown above, but also Nuits St Georges (Burgundy) and the Luberon (Provence).

Limited edition prints are available online from La Provence Collections (along with a host of other gift items and fabrics on a Provencal theme) – thet also have a shop on the Square at Stow-in-the-Wold, near Cheltenham, Glos.

If you don’t want a print, you can see some of pictures in her book

Travels Through Burgundy

The Alsace Wine Route winds its way from north to south, for more than 170 kilometres, along the eastern foothills of the Vosges. This delightful itinerary runs across a succession of undulating hills, through pretty villages with narrow streets of flower-decked, half-timbered houses, clustered around their church steeple.
Visitors can easily explore the heart of the vineyards, along numerous vineyard paths leading to the crest of each slope, where signs explain the work of the winegrower and the diversity of the grape varieties.
They are welcomed into winstubs and tasting cellars to instantly discover the traditional appeal of the vine and the wine.

I keep an eye on a site called Trek Earth which is a photo repository, and which includes a France section see – http://www.trekearth.com/ which is where the above photo comes from. I often see photos on the site which are very evocative of the magic of France.

For more on the Alsace Wine Route (la route des vins d’alsace) see www.vinsalsace.com – but if you planning on spending any time on that site I suspect you may want to turn the sound off!

2007 is the three hundredth anniversary of his death, and hence numerous events are planned to celebrate this master of military invention. His physical legacy is of course the list of imitimidating fortresses to defend le Hexagone – the defensible boundaries of France from the northern border with Belgium down to the Alps, along the Mediterranean and up the Atlantic Coast. However, his military reputation initially was more concerned with planning and implementing sieges – so in many ways he was a poacher-turned-gamekeeper – if you are good as breaking sieges, then who better to design defenses to repel them? The hallmark of Vauban is his impressive use of massive angular pentagonal walls which prevented attackers targetting one section of wall without being at risk of counter-attack from an adjacent section. The classic examples are the Citadel at Lille, Briancon and Besancon, although many other examples exist.

My favourite is on the island of Belle-Ile off the coast of Brittany, where the fortifications adjacent to the small harbout of Le Palais are most impressive. More familiar to visitors to France will be the fortifications at St Malo and la Rochelle. Vauban left his mark on most of the land and sea frontiers of France, although he was born in Burgundy which hosts only one of his constructiona. On the Côte d’Azur, Antibes, Villefranche, Cannes and St.Tropez. Toulon, Marseille, Collioure on the Mediterranean;

other sites are at Arras, Auxonne, Barraux, Bayonne, Belfort, Bergues, Bitche, Blaye, Bouillon, Calais, Cambrai, Colmars-les-Alpes, Douai, Entrevaux, Givet, Gravelines, Huningue, Joux, Kehl, Landau, La Rochelle, Le Quesnoy, Lusignan, Le Perthus (Fort de Bellegarde), Luxembourg, Maastricht, Maubeuge, Metz, Mont-Dauphin, Mont-Louis, Montmédy, Namur, Neuf-Brisach, Perpignan, Plouezoc’h (Château du Taureau), Rocroi, Saarlouis, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Saint-Omer, Sedan, Toul, Valenciennes, Verdun, Villefranche-de-Conflent. For more info see www.vauban2007-bourgogne.org and www.sites-vauban.org

For more info see www.vinsalsace.com

July 7th Nuit du vin DAMBACH-LA-VILLE (BAS-RHIN)
July 14th and 15th Fête des vins PFAFENHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
From July 13th to July 15th Foire aux vins BARR (BAS-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Fête du Pinot Noir RODERN (HAUT-RHIN)
July 20th Nuit des Grands Crus EGUISHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Husseren en fête HUSSEREN /CHATEAUX (HAUT-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Foire aux vins BLIENSCHWILLER (BAS-RHIN)
July 21st and 22nd Foire aux vins RIBEAUVILLE (HAUT-RHIN)
July 28th and 29th Fête du vin WETTOLSHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
July 28th and 29th Fête du vin MITTELBERGHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
July 28th and 29th Fête du Gewurztraminer BERGHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
August 2nd and 9th Du cep au verre BLIENSCHWILLER (BAS-RHIN)
August 3rd Nuit du Nectar OBERMORSCHWIHR (HAUT-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Fête du vin au pays du Brand TURCKHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Fête du vin ANDLAU (BAS-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Folles nuits du Crémant CLEEBOURG (BAS-RHIN)
August 4th and 5th Arts, Vins, Foie gras, Folklore EPFIG (BAS-RHIN)
From August 10th to August Foire aux vins OBERNAI (BAS-RHIN)
15th
From August 10th to August Foire régionale des vins d’Alsace COLMAR (HAUT-RHIN)
19th
August 11th and 12th Fête du Klevener HEILIGENSTEIN (BAS-RHIN)
August 11th and12th Fête du Silberberg RORSCHWIHR (HAUT-RHIN)
August 14th (19.30 pm), « Wielada » ZELLENBERG (HAUT-RHIN)
and August 15th (17.30pm)
August 14th and 15th Eurovin DAMBACH-LA-VILLE (BAS-RHIN)
August 14th and 15th Mariage de l’ami Fritz MARLENHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
August 18th and 19th Fête des portes des caves ouvertes GUEBERSCHWIHR (HAUT-RHIN)
August 25th and 26th Fête des vignerons EGUISHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
September 2nd Fête des Ménétriers RIBEAUVILLE (HAUT-RHIN)
September 23rd Fête des vendanges CLEEBOURG (BAS-RHIN)
September 23rd and 30th Fête du vin nouveau ST HIPPOLYTE (HAUT-RHIN)
2September 29th and 30th Fête du vin nouveau WISSEMBOURG (BAS-RHIN)
September 30th Fête d’Automne WINTZENHEIM (HAUT-RHIN)
September 5th and October 7th Fête des vendanges BARR (BAS-RHIN)
October 7th Fête du Vin nouveau STEINSELTZ (BAS-RHIN)
October 13th and 14th Grande Fête du Raisin MOLSHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
October 14th Fête du vin nouveau MITTELBERGHEIM (BAS-RHIN)
October 14th Fête du vin nouveau ITTERSWILLER (BAS-RHIN)
October 20th and 21st Fête d’Automne OBERNAI (BAS-RHIN)
October 21st Fête des vendanges MARLENHEIM (BAS-RHIN)

The grape thrives in Alsace’s warm, dry microclimate, where long dry autumns provide the hang-time essential for building up flavours. Old vines, high-quality terroir and very low yields (below 40 hectolitres per hectare) are also essential for a decent result.

I can recommend the Alsace wines of Emile Boeckel in Mittelbergheim (67 Bas-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) but sadly cannot find a UK stockist these days.

In Alsace you can find really excellent co-operative wines, such as the Cave de Turckheim – the wonderfully named Blotto Wines in Somerset stock their Pinot Gris amongst other varietals.

To download a list of wine festivals in Alsace see www.frenchduck.co.uk

- the Toulouse- Lautrec museum in Albi(81 Tarn, Midi-Pyrenees) (www.musee-toulouse-lautrec.com);

- the Armagnac Museum in Condom (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) www.condom.org;

- the French Travelling Post Office museum (www.ambulants.fr in Toulouse ()21 Haute-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees)

Particularly interesting is the Chateau de Versailles, (78 Yvelines, Ile de France) where there will be a music and light show against the spectacular backdrop of the marble courtyard of the Chateau – see www.chateauversailles.fr/

Moreover entrance appears to be free and many are putting on other diversions (e.g. music, dancing, a pocket torch tour). Full details can be found at www.nuitdesmusees.culture.fr/

Recommended Reading:
Alsace Lorraine Champagne Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
World Encylopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Alsace is quite a complicated region, and the terroir associated with some really quite small plots can make a significant difference to the character and quality of the wine.“This interactive map enables you to locate our estates in Alsace, to understand the geological complexity of the terroirs of Riquewihr, to visualise individual vineyards and grape varieties, and to measure the interface between vines and soils : Riesling in the Schoenenbourg, Gewurztraminer in the Sporen, finally Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir in the Pflostig.”

Oddbins stocks Hugel’s Riesling “Dry and crisp with underlying lime and kerosene fruit and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with a very long clean finish.”

For more info see http://blog.hugel.com/

Le Coq Hardi (or the bold rooster) is a common feature in France – most commonly seen onthe French National Rugby and Football Team shirts – it is also the symbol for Wallonia – the French speaking part of Belgium.

Verdun was a major battle in the First World War – and became synomymous with huge losses from a war of attrition – and of particular resonance to the French as they took the brunt of the carnage. Its occupies a strategic position on the banks of the RIver Meuse and was where Marechal Petain earned his reputation, Despite the overlay of the battle and its consequences, it is a pleasant town and is well-positioned just about 250 miles from Calais.

In Alsace, for example, many of the best wines are produced by co-ops such as Turckheim and will offer an excellent tasting and range of wines.

In the Loire Valley, the Cave des Producteurs de Vouvray has a wide range of wine styles on offer and an interesting visit through the underground cellars.

In the Southwest, the co-op at Buzet (les Vignerons de Buzet) led the re-creation of the vineyard and established the appellation’s reputation for good quality wines. The visit to the winery also includes a demonstration of cooperage (barrel-making).
Another example of how good a co-op can be is at Plaimont in Gascony, deep in the heart of Armagnac country. A wide range of great quality wines from simple Vins de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne through to rich Madiran reds.

At Marmande the visit will be more basic, but the Cotes du Marmandais wines are fine and good value for money,
In the Languedoc one of my favourite Co-operative cellars is in the small village of Embres-et-Castelmaure in the Corbieres – some truly excellent wines in a delightfful if rustic surroundings.
Finally in the Southern Rhone valley I’d recommend the Cave de Beaumes-de-Venise for their well-known dessert Muscat wine, but also some very good red Cotes du Rhone.

Agen (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) 3-5 Nov 2006 (yes – November!) – see www.ot-agen.org/fr

Aix-en-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) 24 Nov – 26 Dec 2006 – see www.aixenprovencetourism.com

Amiens (80 Somme, Picardie) 25 Nov – 31 Dec 2006 – see www.amiens.fr

Boulogne-sur-Mer (62 Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) 9-10 Dec 2006 – see www.tourisme-boulognesurmer.com

Chartres (28 Eure et Loir, Centre) 2-24 Dec 06 – see www.chartres-tourisme.com/
Place des Epars, boulevard Chasles.

Colmar (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) 25 Nov-31 Dec 2006 – see www.ot-colmar.fr/

Dijon (21 Cote d’Or, Burgundy) 1-23 Dec 2006 – see www.dijon-tourism.com

Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) 22 Nov – 27 Dec 2006 – see www.lilletourisme.com/

Marciac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) – 17 Dec 2006 – see www.marciactourisme.com

Montbeliard (25 Doubs, Franche-Comte) 25 Nov – 24 Dec 2006 – Christmas Markets and Lights – see http://lumieresdenoel.fr

Mulhouse (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) 22 Nov – 30 Dec 2006 – Place de la Réunion, Square Steinbach – see www.ot.ville-mulhouse.fr/evt/marchenoel.php

Nancy (54 Meurthe-et-Moselle, Alsace-Lorraine) 24 Nov – 24 Dec 2006 Place Maginot – Rue Notre Dame – Passage Saint Thiébaut – see www.ot-nancy.fr

Nantes (44 Loire-Atlantique, Pays de Loire) – 24 Nov – 24 Dec 06 – see www.nantes-tourisme.com

Niort (79 Deux-Sevres, Poitou-Charentes) 2-24 Dec 2006 – see www.niortourisme.com/

Noisy-le-Grand (93 Seine St Denis, Ile de France) 6-10 December 2006 – Place Galliéni – see http://english.pidf.com/

Reims (51 Marne, Champagne-Ardennes) 24 Nov – 24 Dec 2006 – see www.reims-tourisme.com/

Strasbourg (67 Bas-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) 25 Nov – 31 Dec 2006 – see www.noel-strasbourg.com/pages_prov/GB.html The original “Christkindelsmärik” dates back to 1570.

Unleaded Petrol (sans plomb 95) is €1.17/litre (83p)
Unleaded Petrol (sans plomb 98) is €1.20/litre (85p)
Diesel (Gazole) is €0.999 (71p)

Autoroute options
Dunkerque – Paris toll (péage):£11.17; 293km(183miles) journey time 03h00
Boulogne-Paris via A16 and Amiens toll: £12.03; 254km (159m) time 02h37
Calais – Paris via A26/A1 toll:£13.17; 289km (180m), time 02h50
St Malo – Bordeaux tolls:£17.30; 539km (337m); time 05h12
Paris – Toulouse via A20 tolls: £20.78 678km (424m); time 06h20
St Malo – Toulouse – tolls £28.26; 772km (483m); time 07h21
Calais – Strasbourg – tolls £29.04; 622km (389m); time 05h28
Paris – Bordeaux tolls £33.74; 590km (369m); time 05h31
Calais – Avignon via Reims tolls £36.80; 988km (618m);time 08h49
Calais-Nice via Reims tolls £62.70; 1238k, (774m);time 11h02

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Throughout France the grape harvest is getting underway, accompanied by various celebrations and festivals ostensibly to celebrate the new “vendange“. However, it always perplexes me that these diversions occur around what will be the busiest time of the year for winemakers – grape-picking, fermentation and maturation all require much intensive effort over short periods – whereas for the rest of the year fining, racking, cleaning, pruning, spraying etc tend not to have the same urgency and tight deadlines in the way Autumn does. In truth of course it is probably more to do with moving last year’s stock to allow for the new wine harvest – but that may be me being a tad cycnical.
In Alsace over 3 weekends in September (2-3, 9-10, 23-24 September 2006) Riquewihr (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) joins the celebrations. Riquewihr must be both one of the prettiest villages in Alsace with its half-timbered houses and narrow medieval streets – and home to some of the very best producers (Dopff au Moulin, Hugel, Dopff et Irion). Alsace Riesling and Gewurztraminer tend to be the finest expression of Alsace, but you should not overlook Tokay Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc or Sylvaner which can be extraordinarily concentrated and delightful.
For more info on the Fete des Vendnages see www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com
Other websites to visit include Dopff et Irion, Dopff au Moulin and Hugel
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