Many visitors may feel squeamish or even disapproving about the spectacle of bull-fighting, but it is a long-maintained tradition in Provence and southern France, especially in the Camargue.  You can however still enjoy the spectacle (and avoid the risk of any gore)by seeing the noisy and colourful parades and bull-running through the town. My view is that if you really object to this form of “entertainment” then avoid the area.

The bull-fighting (corrida) takes place in the spectacular Roman Arena in Arles, and there are other options such as the  Course Camargaise, which is another local form of bullfighting without the drawing of any blood.

About course camarguaise:  It is a summer pastime practiced in many small towns around Arles and the area. There are local leagues which are reported in local newspapers..
This different kind of bullfighting is known alternately as “course libre” or “course camarguaise“. This is a bloodless spectacle (for the bulls) in which the objective is to snatch a rosette from the head of a young bull.

The participants, or raseteurs, begin training in their early teens against young bulls from the Camargue region before graduating to regular contests held principally in Arles and Nîmes but also in other Provençal and Languedoc towns and villages.
Before the course, anencierro — a “running” of the bulls in the streets — takes place, in which young men compete to outrun the charging bulls. The course itself takes place in a small (often portable) arena erected in a town square.
For a period of about 15–20 minutes, the raseteurs compete to snatch rosettes (cocarde) tied between the bulls’ horns. They don’t take the rosette with their bare hands but with a claw-shaped metal instrument called a raset or crochet(hook) in their hands, hence their name. Afterwards, the bulls are herded back to their pen by gardiens (Camarguais cowboys) in a bandido, amidst a great deal of ceremony. The star of these spectacles are the bulls, who get top billing and stand to gain fame and statues in their honor, and lucrative product endorsement contracts!

For more info on the Feria see www.arenes-arles.com

Arles is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its ancient Roman and medieval history: “It has some impressive Roman monuments, of which the earliest – the arena, the Roman theatre and the cryptoporticus (subterranean galleries) – date back to the 1st century B.C. During the 4th century Arles experienced a second golden age, as attested by the baths of Constantine and the necropolis of Alyscamps. In the 11th and12th centuries, Arles once again became one of the most attractive cities in the Mediterranean. Within the city walls, Saint-Trophime, with its cloister, is one of Provence’s major Romanesque monuments.”

Arles also has strong connections to Vincent Van Gogh who spent 15 months of his most productibe period in the town; also nearby is the Camargue, a largely unspoilt regional natural park lying between 2 arms of the Rhone delta. To the east are the charms of Les Baux de Provence, St Remy-de-Provence and the wines of Les Baux de Provence AC – where I would recommend a visit to Mas Ste Berthe to try (and buy) some of their wines and/or olive oil and to takes a walk around the signpost route around the vineyard.

For more info on Arles and the surrounding area see www.tourisme.ville-arles.fr
Arles is twinned with WISBECH in Cambridgeshire – although I doubt you will find much bull-running there! – although it is known as the Capital of the Fens which could be considered as comparable to the Camargue – flat, marshy and a haven for wild life.

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Those who thought black pudding was a purely Scottish affair need think again, as the international contest to find the best black pudding takes place next March in the historic French village of Mortagne-au-Perche in the Orne area of Normandy.
The 46th annual black pudding festival will celebrate the culinary traditions of the region, with local cook-offs, celebrity chefs as well as a host of gastronomic stalls and exhibits open to the public.
The main part of the festival is the black pudding competition which sees over 650 competitors from across Europe but there are also two fiercely fought culinary competitions open to professional and amateur chefs who reside in the Orne. They are charged with creating and cooking the best dish – fish-based for the professionals, and a desert for the amateurs – using local produce such as apples, calvados, cider, pommeau, cream, butter and cheese to create their dish.

Specialist butchers and delicatessens will be demonstrating the art of making a black pudding, and visitors may sample and be their own judge of the best recipe.

For more info see www.normandy-ornetourism.com

Where to stay (B&B) in Normandy?

Amongst the bands appearing are the UK’s BBC Big Band, the French Band of the Republican Guard and a quintet of trumpets “Les Trompettes de Lyon“. There are also fringe events so the otherwise quiet town will be full of rich sound.

For more info see www.festivalcuivre.fr

Limoux is a good base for visiting the Pyrenees, Cathar country and the spectacular fortified medieval city of Carcassonne. Local wines include the still and sparkling white wines of Limoux (visit Antech), and furthe east you enter Corbieres country.

Interesting that the French refer to Brass in this context as “cuivrée” which is more literally “coppered” – in general the term “brass” does not necessarily imply that the instrument is made from brass, but it belongs to a group of instruments where the sound is made by “lip vibration” – and of course includes the Saxaphone which is promarily made of wood. Presumably the same applies to the French use of the term “cuivrée”!

Albi is perhapes best known for its pink brick Cathedral, the Toulouse Lautrec museum and the birthplace of the Albigensian Crusades which led to the Cathar heresy and battles.

However for a week in February the town goes into Carnival mode with Carnival Queens, Parades, floats, music etc to jollify the streets of the town.

I have stayed at the Mercure Bastides Hotel in Albi is centrally situated by the River Tarn with great views of the Cathedral.

Whilst in the area you can visit the vineyards of Gaillac AC. I can recommend the Domaine de Labarthe at Castanet which produces some very good Gaillac reds, dry and sweet whites. Sparkling and Gaillac Perlé ( a lightly petillant dry white).

For more info on the Albi Carnival see www.carnaval-albi.com

For more info on Albi see www.albi-tourisme.fr

For 4 days the Cloister of St Benedict in the Palais de Papes is bedecked with hundreds of varieties of roses,  including some new strains – making the whole place a riot of colour and perfume. There  is a competition for the best rose and the opportunity to buy or just enjoy.

However implausible it may seem even southern Provence has had snow this winter – so its not just the northern climes which have suffered – see www.avignon-tourisme.com for pictures of Avignon in the snow!!

Avignon is always worth visiting any time of year – a great combination of lively modern city, medieval walled town and Palace, the famous truncated Pont d”Avignon Bridge across the Rhone (real name Pont St Benazit) – surrounded by superb Provencal countryside (St Remy de Provence with its market and Van Gogh connections is only a short distance away- plus plenty of great wines and local produce to enjoy.

For more info on Altera Rosa see www.alterarosa.com

For more info on Avignon see www.avignon-tourisme.com

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The carnival processions, comprising 20 floats telling the story of the “Blue Planet” work their way up to a crescendo of gigantic decorations on the Place Masséna. These giant, colourful parades take place day and night, with entertainment provided by over 1,000 musicians and dancers from across the world.

In a unique setting, on the Promenade des Anglais, the elegant “flower battles” are part of the carnival not to be missed. On floats decorated with the most stunning floral compositions, extravagantly dressed characters throw out mimosas, gerberas, and lilies into the public …

Carnival provides locals and visitors with a chance to enjoy themselves before the privations of Lent and certainly brightens up the long dull winter days – although the Riviera is seldom dreary even in mid-winter.

For more info see www.nicecarnaval.com

The most famous, the nosiest, the most mental, but also the oldest, is the Dunkerque Carnival. For weeks on end, groups called fisherbands take the measure of each other, confront each other with sarabands and songs, disperse and liven up the town, and finally come together in one huge choir to celebrate their sailors, honour Jean Bart, and claim, with body and voice, their herrings thrown from the top of the belfry.
If you’ve never done Carnival here, you’ve never seen a real carnival !

For more info see www.northernfrance-tourism.com
Of course Dunkerque is directly connected from Dover with Norfolkline Ferries – but beware that the port (near Loon-Plage) is some 18km from the town centre

So bringing these two classic regional delights together should make for a great combination:

….. our first exclusive 2010 event in Château de Haute-Serre: “Truffle & Malbec Tuesdays” from January 12th to March 2nd in the restaurant La Table de Haute-Serre, with a special menu made of truffles. A perfect pairing between food and our wines has been set up by our 1 Michelin Star chef Philippe Combet. You can extend your stay in the land of the ‘black diamond’ with a visit to Lalbenque where the traditional truffle market starts every Tuesday in winter at 2 p.m. in the main street.

For more info see www.hauteserre.fr

The festival celebrates the piercing or tapping of the barrels of the Jura’s famous “Yellow Wine” (vin jaune) which has spent 6 years and 3 months maturing, to enable the vintage from 6 years ago to be bottled, sold and enjoyed for many, many years to come.

British locals John & Carolyn Scallan run a B&B (Chambres d’Hote) at Sens-sur-Seille  and have put together a special weeked offer for the Festival which includes a special Jura Discovery dinner and transport to and from the Festival. With their local knowledge of wine, food, markets and things to see this would be a great way of getting the very best out of the Festival and learning more about the local wines and region – all at a bargain price:-

Come and spend the weekend discovering the wines and foods of the Jura region, meet the producers and enjoy the festival, on a specially arranged weekend break, which includes two nights bed and breakfast accommodation in our comfortable B&B, a special Jura Discovery dinner on Fridaynight, and transport to and from the Percée festival on Saturday.
PROGRAMME

Friday evening, arrive and check into your room here in Sens sur Seille. Rooms will be available from 4pm onwards. Freshen up and then at 7pm join us for a special Jura Discovery dinner, with an introduction to different Jura wines from different producers, carefully matched with each course.
Saturday morning, after a copious breakfast, feel free to discover the local market in St Germain du Bois. 11.30am leave for the Percée festival – transport is provided.
6pm return transportation
The evening is free for you to try one of the excellent local restaurants. There are 2 here in the village, and several more in the nearby towns.
Sunday, depart after yet another copious breakfast.
PRICE PER PERSON €82
Price includes 2 nights bed and breakfast accommodation (based on two people sharing a double room) special dinner on Friday night (wines included) and transport to and from the wine festival.
Not included: Transport to Sens sur Seille, entry to the wine festival (€11), other meals.
Additional nights may be booked at a discount to the normal room rate. Please ask for more information.

For more info and an enquiry form CLICK HERE

From Thursday 14 January to Sunday 17 January 2010 Valloire in the French Alps  (73 Savoie, Rhone-Alpes) hosts an international Ice Sculpture competition

This is followed  from Tuesday 19 January to Friday 22 January 2010 by the  27th anniversary Snow Sculpture competition with traditional art from Canada.

Valloire is the only place in France to organise this international event.

With good snow conditions in the Alps this year the exhibits may last a little longer than some years

For more info see www.valloire.net

• January 1 (Friday) – New Year’s Day (Jour de l’An)
• April 4 (Sunday) – Easter (Pâques)
• April 5 (Monday) – Easter Monday (Lundi de Pâques)
• May 1 (Saturday(- Labour Day (Fête du Travail)
• May 8 (Saturday) – WWII Victory Day (Fête de la Victoire 1945)
• May 13 (Thursday) – Ascension Day (Ascension catholique)
• May 23 (Sunday) – Whitsun (Pentecôte)
• May 24 (Monday) – Whit Monday (Lundi de Pentecôte)
• July14 (Wednesday) – Bastille Day (Fête Nationale)
• August  15 (Sunday)- Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Assomption)
• November 1 (Monday) – All Saints’ Day (Toussaint)
• November 11 (Thursday) – Armistice Day (Armistice 1918)
• December 25 (Saturday) – Christmas Day (Noël)

Montrachet boasts two Grand Cru vineyards – Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet – and then there is neighbouring village of Puligny-Montrachet. These vineyards produce some of the most expensive and long-lived white wines in the world – here the Chardonnay grape is supreme,  although red wine is also made from the Pinot Noir grape.

For the weekend the village opens all its cellars for tastings; food stalls adorn the streets for snails, cheese, charcuterie and other burgundian gastronomic delights; a church service, parade and intronisation (induction)  ceremony – a lively scene in this otherwise  sleepy wine village.

For more info see www.st-vincent-tournante.fr

Starting at 11PM, and lasting more that an hour, the Tower will offer a special show: an exceptional and one-of-a-kind lightshow that will disappear with the start of the New Year. After the last regular session, at 11:05PM, the Tower will repeat its light show at 11:30PM,followed by a totally new 20-minute creation using the technical possibilities offered by the new LED lighting to mark the symbolic countdown to 2010.
At midnight the lightshow, a popular highlight of Parisian nights, will provide a sparkling backdrop to the first minutes of the 2010.

Visible only from the Trocadero (Seine) side you can participate in the celebrations from the comfort of your computer by going to
http://31decembreaparis.com

OK – they are not real bears (although Bears have been reintroduced in some parts of the Pyrenees) but young men blacked up and wearing sheepskins as the “bears” which are then chased through the town by “hunters” – culminating in music and dancing in the town centre.

For more info see www.pratsdemollolapreste.com

An amazing new event for everyone who wants to enter the legend of Father Christmas. A unique, magical performance in front of the Palace of the Popes, a thirty-minute show featuring special effects, giant sets, fireworks and beautiful lighting to tell a wonderful story which takes place in Provence. After the show, young and old alike can meet Father Christmas and his elves, who will be distributing hot chocolate, Christmas crackers and surprises.

Whilst there you can also indulge in the Christmas Market(Marché de Noel)  in the Place d’Horloge (26 November 2009 -2 January 2010 ) with a village of 60+ chalets offering craft jewelery, candles, lamps,  specialities such as local wines, nougat, candied fruits, chocolate, honey, gingerbread, games and wooden toys.  Free entertainment, parades, concerts for children and adults accompanying the event.

Make a weekend break of it with Eurostar and TGV –
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For more info see www.provenceguide.co.uk

A multicoloured festival under the sun! The town comes alive on Sunday mornings, when coaches and cars dance through the streets, an endless farandole of people swaying down the alleyways to the sea. Laughter and joy shine from happy faces everywhere.

Today is a holiday! A wide-eyed child stares in wonderment at the confetti showering from the sea blue sky… Creative masks and sumptuous costumes abound; fanfares twirl and zigzag through the citrus-laden floats to the sound of traditional drums.

On Thursday nights there is a Moonlit Parade with more floats, music and fireworks! Then there is are displays of local crafts and stalls offering every variation on citrus fruit.  This area of the French Riviera enjoys a sub-tropical climate with a steady temperature of 6-13° C ,and is  shielded from harmful winds by the nearby mountains.

See www.feteducitron.com

….over 50 stands selling with an outstanding array of Christmas goodies and artisan produce. This cosmopolitan market welcomes sellers from around the world with products such as nativity figurines, foie gras, Christmas desserts, pain d’épices (like gingerbread), hippocraswine, traditional waffles, baby clothes, plants, art, clothing, leather goods and jewellery. The charmingly festive atmosphere really makes this a Christmas event to be relished and it is not by chance that Father Christmas himself has chosen Caen as his home for the entire duration of the market!!

See www.tourisme.caen.fr
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Over the 2 days you can taste wines direct from the producer and attend numerous masterclasses to enhance your appreciaton of wine. Unusually there is also a selection of Italian wines available to try. Bordeaux Chateau such as Chateau Laroze (St Emilion) will be there as well as producers from Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Corsica, Loire and Rhône etc.

Carrousel du Louvre , 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris – see www.grandtasting.com

In 2009 the Confrerie celebrates on Saturday 28 November with a parade of goats through the village and a banquet based on goat meat! The village  lies in a very rural part of France between Clermont Ferrand (50 miles)  and Limoges  (60 miles).

For more info see www.tourisme-creuse.com

One of the most important and well-known gardens in France at Chateau de Villandry(37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) has gone organic. No more synthetic seeds, chemical fertilisers or pesticides etc – just environmentally friendly insects and techniques.

In the heart of the Loire Valley on the south bank of the Loire west of Tours, the Chateau is well worth a detour.

The 16th-17th Century chateau and its gardens host “Kitchen Garden Days” (Les Journées du Potager) every September (25-26 September 2010) and the Night of 1000 Lights  (Les Nuits des Mille Feux) when the gardens are illuminated with candles each July (2-3 July 2010), both of which offer enhanced opportunities to view the spectacular gardens.

Château de Villandry
37510 VILLANDRY

In the heart of winter, Lille sparkles and glows with “joie de vivre”! With the wave of a magic wand, the city takes on a festive atmosphere and welcomes you to a winter wonderland. On Place Rihour, more than 80 chalets teem with gift ideas, nativity figurines, Christmas decorations and festive food. You can find regional specialities here, and you can also find arts and crafts from Russia, Poland, and Québec, as well as products from Native America. And that’s not to forget the gingerbread and other delicacies which you can take away or eat on the spot with a glass of mulled wine…
On the Main Square, amidst the sumptuous decorations and as Christmas carols fill the air, the Big Wheel turns majestically. Its height of 50 metres ensures guests have a stunning view of the city.

See our other articles Le weekend in…. Lille and Lille’s Christmas celebrations
For more info see www.noel-a-lille.com

If you have time and inclination then it is worth a visit to la Piscine at nearby Roubaix, which is a converted municipal art deco- swimming pool which retains part of the pool as a centre piece, whilst the old changing cubicles hold exhibits. The building houses the Museum of Science and Industry which celebrates the town’s industrial heritage when it was a centre for the textile industry – see www.roubaix-lapiscine.com/

From a spectator point of view it promises a good day out in the Medoc – as although you miss the momentary flash of 100+ professional cyclists zooming past, you get to see ech rider individually and can make a whole day of it with the race taking 2 hours or so to pass.

For more info see www.letour.fr

What better way to rediscover the magic of France than by immersing yourself in the colours, the culture and the party atmosphere that is the France Show 2010 – the UK’s largest celebration of all that makes France such a special place.

The Show includes a wide variety of French themes including cookery demonstrations; Travel, Language and French property seminars; the UK’s largest French property exhibition; Top French restaurants to eat at and a French Market selling produce and fashions,

For more info see www.thefranceshow.com/

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

Get the best rates for other hotels in Lille

Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

An unmissable wine-themed rendez-vous involving encounters with winemakers, exhibitions, lectures, cultural activities and traditional local markets…

For example on Saturday 10 October there is a traditional market featuring local produce in the streets of the town centre;music; the pressing of the grape harvest by schoolchildren; taste workshops and an evening firework dispay.Festivities will end with a flourish on Sunday 11 October with tasting of the 2008 vintage, the arrival of the grape harvest by sea and traditional music and singing. – and a barbecue on the beach.

Banyuls AOC is a sweet fortified dessert wine made from older vines on the foothills of the Pyrenees close to the border with Spain. It is made mainly from the Grenache grape.

For more info on Banyuls wine see www.banyuls.com and on the wine festival

Paris plays host to Nuit Blanche with trails starting in the North of the City, with the artistic installations at the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. These works will cast new light on the Jean Jaurès Gymnasium, the Pailleron Swimming Pool and the CENTQUATRE artist hub. The courtyards located in the Marais and the Châtelet district will form the centre of the event. From Notre-Dame, a beautiful pedestrian trail will take you towards numerous places located between Luxembourg and the Quartier Latin on the left bank, normally closed to the public.

The three trails (Buttes-Chaumont, the centre of Paris and the Latin Quarter) are all connected throughout the night – e.g. metro lines 11 and 14 will run a frequent service all night – free between 2.00am and 5.30am.

For more info see www.paris.fr
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The Fourme de Montbrison has only a small number of mould veins throughout and has a reddish rind. Its flavour is very mild with light nut and mushroom flavours.

On the weekend of 2-3-4 October 2009 the town of Montbrison celebrates its “Journées de la Fourme”

To accompany this mild cheese the local Cotes du Forez AOC wine which is made from Gamay would make a good choice – and this is also likely to be available to taste on the “Cheese Days”

For more info on Le Forez see www.foreztourisme.fr/

For more info on the cheese see www.fourme-montbrison.com

For more info on the Cotes dy Forez AOC wine see http://cotesduforez.fr