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France has always been a good camping destination - the French themselves enjoy “le camping” and the autoroutes heading south are testament to what seems like a mass exodus of Dutch caravans every summer seeking the warmer climes of the Midi or Provence.
On a recent visit to Domaine Octavie at Oisly (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) we discovered a special scheme for motor-caravab (motorhomes?, RVs?, camping cars) called France Passion. In return for a small annual subscription (about £22) you get a map and guide to thousands of farms and vineyards across France where you can park up for the night free of charge.
You need to be self-contained for water, electric etc, as these locations are not campsites with all the amenities - often just a water tap and a bin for the rubbish.
Limited to just a couple of vans, the scheme offers the chance to stay in idyllic, peaceful surroundings - at Octavie this was amidst the vines!
And being effectively the winemaker or farmer’s guest, it is only polite to offer to taste the produce - be it wine, fruit, vegetables, honey, foie gras, snails, olives, even ostrich!
I have heard the French complain that many northern europeans visit their region only to be too self-contained - bringing their home with them and keeping themselves to themselves - but this scheme offers the chance to meet the French on their own turf and find out something about the life of a farmer or winemaker.
For more info on the scheme see www.france-passion.co.uk
We always enjoy visiting Domaine Octavie, where Madame Isabelle provides a warm welcome - their Touraine Sauvignon AC is always excellent - this part of France is ideal for producing top quality Sauvignon Blanc - the region includes Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Quincy etc.
We were also impressed with the Touraine Gamay AC, which had a remarkable depth of flavour and structure - ideal to accompany a grilled lamb steak (tranche de gigot. Another testament to the changing climate methinks - as Loire valley Gamay could never have reached such a level of intensity 10 years or so ago.
Domaine Octavie, Oisly, 41 Loir-et-Cher
One of the growing band of British winemakers in France is the Quinney family at Chateau Bauduc near Creon (33 Gironde, Aquitaine).
As well as delivering to private customers in the UK, we supply some of the country’s leading chefs: our Bordeaux Blanc has been the house wine at all Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants for eight consecutive vintages and a bespoke Bauduc red is the top selling wine in his three Michelin star establishment – still the only London restaurant with that accolade. Our white is also a ‘special selection’ at Rick Stein’s.
Since they bought the Chateau in 1999 the reputation of the Chateau has grown, not an easy task in the competitive marketplace that is Bordeaux. There is a 4-bedroom farmhouse on the estate which
…. is rented out on a weekly basis, overlooks the vineyards and backs on to the farm buildings and chais where the wine is made and aged. This 18th century stone dwelling was completely restored in 2002 with painstaking attention to detail and is a great place to spend a week or two in lovely surroundings.
For more details see www.bauduc.com
Chateau Bauduc, Creon 33670, France T: 00 33 (0)5 56 23 06 05 Email: team@bauduc.com
We keep coming across gites and Bed & Breakfast (Chambres d’Hote) on vineyards in France, but there are obviously some domaines that also offer camping, whether canvas or motorhome.
One such is Chateau de Pennautier in the Cabardes appellation (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) north west of Carcassonne. (see map). We have mentioned this chateau before, partly because its wines are a crossover between the Mediterranean and Languedoc to the east and the Atlantic and South West to the west and also because unusually for a domaine in one of the lesser known appellations, it has really worked on making a visit to the vineyard an all-round experience - rather more than a dank cellar with old vineyard tools and some stainless steel tanks.
They offer a wine bar/restaurant/shop as well as a cellar (not dank!) and now offer a campsite and mobile homes to let as well.
The wines are pretty good too - Majestic Wine (amongst others) stocks the red Château de Pennautier 2006 Cabardès AC, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah and Grenache - a true south/southwest blend.
“Aromas of fresh raspberries and mulberries follow through to a firm, tannic palate, showing the Cabardès appellation at its best.” £5.99
See our customised map of the Aude département.
In the heart of the Loire Valley there is an ideal solution for francophiles who are interested in wine. The Domaine de la Bellevue not only offers some stylish self-contained accommodation but also an opportunity to get really close to the process of transforming grapes into wine.
Surrounded by vineyards and sleepy hamlets our French/Anglo home is a delightful, peaceful retreat. Ideally located for discovering the Loire Valley and beyond, La Bellevue is conveniently close to Saumur, Chinon, Montreuil-Bellay, Fontevraud l’Abbaye and Angers.
In the company of a knowledgeable vigneron, wine-maker, discover the world of wine and enhance your understanding and recognition of an ‘inferior’/’superior’ wine. Spend time discovering how wine is produced at a stunning Domaine in the heart of the val de loire. Or perhaps try your hand at grape-picking during harvest.
With the added benefits that come with an English hostess and a French vigneron you can just enjoy the scenery and try the wines - or take a private wine tour with a winemaker - or have your own wine-tasting evening with expert advice and local knowledge - or if you are feeling really energetic (and no back problems) then get involved with the grape picking at harvest time.
Situated just south of Saumur, famous for its Sparkling Chenin Blanc, dry still white and the red Saumur-Champigny AC this is an area rich in chateaux, history and wine. The Domaine’s association with Domaine de la Paleine, a few kilometres away at Le Puy Notre Dame (49 Maine-et-Loire, Pays de Loire) gives you privileged access to a vineyard which has won recognition in the respected Guide Hachette des Vins de France, winning a Coup de Coeur in the 2008 edition for the red Saumur “Moulin des Quints” 2005 made from Cabernet Franc. They also produce Saumur Brut (sparkling), Saumur Blanc (dry white), Coteaux de Saumur (a dessert wine based on Chenin Blanc) and two rosés - Cabernet de Saumur (dry) and a Cabernet d’Anjou (medium dry) - see the website at www.domaine-paleine.com (there is more info on the French language version)
See our customised map of the Vienne département including the location of Domaine de la Paleine and Domaine de la Bellevue.
For more information on the Chambre d’Hote at Domaine de la Bellevue - see www.domainedelabellevue.com
The heart of Gascony the Gers département (32 Midi-Pyrenees) offers what I consider to be the real “France profonde” - quiet, peaceful, gently rolling countryside with a distant view of the Pyrenees. You are miles away from the turbulence of the city and its traffic and fumes. The only very ocassional reminder is a speeding jet of the French Air Force and the high vapour trails of planes crossing the continent.
Yet this does not have to be a rural scene without modern facilities, nor without careful design and style as you will discover at the B&B Chambres d’Hote Les Chenes Verts de Gascogne:
Our Bed and Breakfast is a large restored 17th century gascony stone farmhouse set in 3 hectares of garden with four ensuite bedrooms and swimming pool. Situated in beautiful countryside with outstanding views, surrounded by vines and ideally placed for visiting the many historical sites, tasting the wines and armagnac at the local domaines, shopping at the local markets, visiting the Thermal Spa, house hunting or just lazing by the pool in its tranquil setting.
Here Julie-Ann and her family have magnificently restored an old stone farmhouse into a comfortable and elegant place to stay, with four ensuite bedrooms - 3 with kingsize beds and 1 with twin double beds. Outside there is 12mx6m swimming pool, a garden with covered shaded terrace and wonderful views over the countryside (see photos)
Although somewhat isolated from hustle and bustle (situated north west of Auch at Bezolles) there is nevertheless plenty to do in the region - follow the traces of the Three Musketeers and d’Artagnan, explore the charming towns and their markets or go wine- or Armagnac-hunting!
The house is surrounded by the vines of Domaine Camp du Haut producers of Madiran and Armagnac and Julie-Ann can introduce you to the owners of the Domaine for a tasting - and at least you could walk back afterwards!
In addition they have a very good and elegant website which offers online booking - see www.leschenesvertsdegascogne.com
Les Chenes Verts De Gascogne, la Bourdette, Gers France 32310
T:00 33 562 28 90 50 F: 00 33 562 29 28 51
see our map and more info on the area
cforms contact form by delicious:days
For more info and photos click Read more on this…
The organic vineyard of Chateau Haut Garrigue in the village of Saussignac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) near Bergerac has it all - a wonderful situation overlooking the Dordogne valley; a self-contained gite “The Grape Escape”, friendly English-speaking (well, Irish) hosts and a real opportunity to see and learn more about wine and wine-making (if that’s what you want!).
Allez Vins! used to import wines from this domaine when it was run by its previous owners, but now it is being run organically under the title “Wild Earth Vineyards” by the enthusiastic and innovative new owners, Sean and Caroline Feely.
The Grape Escape, our well-equipped 4-person gite (self-catering holiday house) is surrounded by organic vineyards and offers fabulous views across the Dordogne valley. It is semi-detached from the main farmhouse facing onto the courtyard on one side and onto the vines on the two sides built out over the vineyard.
As our guests, you are very welcome to spend time with us to learn about our wine and winemaking, taste our wines and perhaps even take part in vineyard or winery activity depending on the time of year and your energy!
No chance for me to taste their wine yet - they produce red, rosé and white Bergerac AC wines and semi-sweet and botytised dessert Saussignac AC wines. (If you want to try them they will be showing their wines at the Real Food Festival at Earls Court, London from 24-27 April 2008).
For more info on the gite, wines and other offerings contact Chateau Haut Garrigue
At Saint Bauzille de Montmel (34 Herault, Languedoc) north east of Montpellier the Mas de Martin is a well-established vineyard (Coteaux du Languedoc AC) which also offers 2 Gites under the Gites de France scheme.
These are both well-appointed (one sleeps 4, the other 6) and well-situated to explore the vineyards, coast and the surrounding countryside, being within sight of the Pic St Loup, the iconic mountain crag which is at the centre of some of the best regarded vineyards of the Languedoc. The domaine also produces its own olive oils.
Contact:-
Gîtes de France Hérault Maison du Tourisme
34184 MONTEPELLIER CEDEX 8
Tél. : 04 67 67 71 62 ou
contact@gdf34.com
For more info on the wines of Domaine Mas de Martin see www.frenchduck.com
For more info see www.premiumwanadoo.com/masdemartin/
The Chateau Rieutort de Blanville at Saint-Pargoire (34230 Herault, Languedoc) is a very stylish chateau surrounded by vines – the chateau estate producing classy wines in the Coteaux du Languedoc and Grès de Montpellier appellations as well as some Vins de Pays Vicomté d’Aumelas.
Sitauted just 10 minutes from the medieval town of Pezenas (34 Herault, Languedoc), and not far from the Mediterranean coast at Narbonne, many of the best Languedoc vineyards are within easy reach
The Chateau offers classy Bed & Breakfast (Chambre d’Hote) accommodation.
Rieutort is not an hotel. It’s a home open to you and where you will feel welcome, the home of the owners of Blanville Wine Estate.
Blanville produces high-quality wines ( red and white), in particular Château Haut-Blanville, regularly rated amongst the best brands in Languedoc.
For more on the B&B - see Chateau Rieutort
For more on their wines see Blanville Languedoc wines
One of Cahors’ top wine chateaux is the Chateau de Mercuès, which is also a top class Michelin restaurant and hotel - the barrel-ageing cellar is under the hotel and is sometimes used for functions - such as a wedding breakfast of bread and Cahors wine!!
Owned by one of the top Cahors wine families - Georges Vigouroux, the wines are consistently amongst the best Cahors wines.
Situated on a promontory to the west of Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) at Mercuès, it offers stunning views over the Lot Valley. see www.relaischateaux.com
More on Chateau de Mercuès and Cahors
In the upper Loire Valley lies the appellation of the Côtes Roannaise AC - from the region around Roanne (42 Loire, Rhône-Alpes) - although a long way from the area most of us associate with the Loire Valley,
These are wines based on the Gamay grapes - best known as the Beaujolais grape. Here Englishman Simon Hawkins and his wife Isabelle have developed a very successful vineyard - Domaine du Fontenay.
But they also offer Bed and Breakfast (Chambre d’Hote) on the domaine - with 4 non-smoking rooms themed after different grape varieties - Gamay, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir - the rooms offering great views over the vines - and the opportunity to taste some of the vineyard’s wines and learn something about wine-making in France.
For more on the domaine see www.domainedufontenay.com
