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The Independent’s Simon Calder narrates an interesting and informative Podcast which you can download and take with you to the cosmopolitan city of Nice, an easy option with many budget airlines flying in from numerous UK airports - or take the TGV from London!
Beginning in the Promenade des Anglais, Simon Calder explores the Matisse Museum and admires the beautiful views of the hills of Provence. He also samples the region’s cuisine, trying traditional corn pancakes and dining at the luxurious Aphrodite restaurant, before tasting some locally produced wine.
The local wine is called Bellet AOC.The vineyards lie within the city limits in the hills above the town. Seldom seen in the UK, the whites are made from Rolle and some Chardonnay with Folle Noir for the reds with some Grenache and Cinsault. Rosé comes from Braquet and Cinsault. Yapp Brothers stock the Bellet AC wines of Domaine de la Source - the rosé 2007 being “a dry and fruity rosé with aromas of wild roses. On the palate, red berry flavours precede a clean, dry finish.”, whilst the 2007 Blanc is described as “An esoteric dry white wine with subtle hints of Provençal pine. The wine displays aromas of pear and wild flowers when young and quince and toasted almonds when it reaches maturity. The dry but fruity palate has balanced acidity and good fruit characteristics, preceding an alluring dry finish.”
Some Links:
Hi Hotel
Musée Matisse in Nice
Aphrodite Restaurant
Nice Official Tourist Office
Regular readers will be aware the the Lot Valley in the South West of France features frequently in these pages - in many ways the essence of “deepest France”, it is less crowded than the Dordogne to the north and yet offers a wide variety of landscapes, pretty villages, great cuisine - and is home to the often under-rated Malbec-based wines of Cahors. Hence an essential recent purchase has been the revised edition of Helen Martin’s Book Lot: Travels Through a Limestone Landscape in SouthWest France
Helen has kindly allowed us to print an extract of the section on Cahors and its wines…….
Lot: Travels Through a Limestone Landscape in SouthWest France
Chapter 8 The Lot Valley: West of Cahors
Below Cahors, the valley of the Lot belongs to the vignerons and the vineyards of the black wine of Cahors, châteaux-country in fact, but in times gone by it also belonged to the bishops of Cahors, who worked and played but mostly – in that great Christian tradition – fought along its banks.
Downstream of Luzech, the really wild cliffs you see to the east of Cahors become a thing of the past, replaced by gentler, graceful slopes, albeit with a certain grandeur to them, that, even though they may end in cliffs, are less formidable and are called cévennes. The river idles its way through the countryside in deep loops, or cingles, and was used as a major artery for transporting goods from the thirteenth century.
Along its banks grow the vines, and it was mostly the wine from these vineyards which used to be sailed downstream to the Garonne and Bordeaux and from thence to the world. The wine of Cahors may have had its ups and down in more recent times, but the Romans were making wine here in the third century and it had something of a reputation even then, so this river trade is very ancient. Finally, though, and in spite of the efforts of competitive Bordeaux wine-makers, it was phylloxera which put paid to the wine, and thus the trade, in the 1880s. By the time it had revived again, there were better means of transport. But even when the river was at the height of its usefulness, transportation was not always guaranteed. You would be surprised to know how many times the Lot froze right over in winter; the end of the eighteenth century was a particularly critical time – in 1766 it was frozen solid for two and a half months.
In the early nineteenth century, on a river much improved with the passage of time by locks and aids to navigation, 300,000 tonnes of freight was carried down it each year, including an astonishing 90 million bottles of wine – three times the number produced today. However, just as it was phylloxera that killed the river’s wine trade, so it was the coming of the railway that killed the river as a serious form of transport. In more recent years, though, it is coming to life again as leisure craft ply their way up and down, no doubt bringing new problems of pollution.
The villages along this western stretch of the river, unsurprisingly enough, are notable for their wine-producers’ houses – usually big and square with bolets or pigeonniers and sometimes both. You will notice, also, the use of decorative brickwork, the bricks being produced along the valley. Read more on this…
P&V have some special offers on their self-catering apartments in various parts of France - but these are limited time offers:-
Book 2 nights and get 2 free or book 1 week and get another whole week free! - offer closes 17th May. Available on 8 Pierre & Vacances residences - CLICk FOR DETAILS
25% off 2 week holidays in August - available between 16th and 30th August - CLICk FOR DETAILS
20% off luxury Adagio Tour Eiffel Aparthotel in Paris - available before 19th May. Includes this bank holiday weekend! 25% off 2 week holidays in August - available between 16th and 30th August - CLICk FOR DETAILS
15% off 4 night breaks at the Latitudes Beach Hotel in stylish Trouville (14 Calvados, Normandie)- available until 13th May - CLICk FOR DETAILS
In the heart of the Loire Valley there is an ideal solution for francophiles who are interested in wine. The Domaine de la Bellevue not only offers some stylish self-contained accommodation but also an opportunity to get really close to the process of transforming grapes into wine.
Surrounded by vineyards and sleepy hamlets our French/Anglo home is a delightful, peaceful retreat. Ideally located for discovering the Loire Valley and beyond, La Bellevue is conveniently close to Saumur, Chinon, Montreuil-Bellay, Fontevraud l’Abbaye and Angers.
In the company of a knowledgeable vigneron, wine-maker, discover the world of wine and enhance your understanding and recognition of an ‘inferior’/’superior’ wine. Spend time discovering how wine is produced at a stunning Domaine in the heart of the val de loire. Or perhaps try your hand at grape-picking during harvest.
With the added benefits that come with an English hostess and a French vigneron you can just enjoy the scenery and try the wines - or take a private wine tour with a winemaker - or have your own wine-tasting evening with expert advice and local knowledge - or if you are feeling really energetic (and no back problems) then get involved with the grape picking at harvest time.
Situated just south of Saumur, famous for its Sparkling Chenin Blanc, dry still white and the red Saumur-Champigny AC this is an area rich in chateaux, history and wine. The Domaine’s association with Domaine de la Paleine, a few kilometres away at Le Puy Notre Dame (49 Maine-et-Loire, Pays de Loire) gives you privileged access to a vineyard which has won recognition in the respected Guide Hachette des Vins de France, winning a Coup de Coeur in the 2008 edition for the red Saumur “Moulin des Quints” 2005 made from Cabernet Franc. They also produce Saumur Brut (sparkling), Saumur Blanc (dry white), Coteaux de Saumur (a dessert wine based on Chenin Blanc) and two rosés - Cabernet de Saumur (dry) and a Cabernet d’Anjou (medium dry) - see the website at www.domaine-paleine.com (there is more info on the French language version)
See our customised map of the Vienne département including the location of Domaine de la Paleine and Domaine de la Bellevue.
For more information on the Chambre d’Hote at Domaine de la Bellevue - see www.domainedelabellevue.com
Many of us dream of owning a property in France, and a surprising number of Brits already do.
Whilst the days of really cheap bargains are probably over, France (outside of the major cities at least) still represents good value, except for the most popular areas such as the Riviera and parts of the Dordogne.
In general rural property prices have weakened since the peak a year or so ago, but the strength of the euro against the pound has lessened the advantage that might otherwise have applied. And there is still a demand from other northern Europeans (mainly Dutch, Belgian and German) who keep prices from falling too steeply.
Rural France still offers a potentially great way of life, improved if you can speak French and make the effort to become part of the local community.
A selection of properties is available below:-
| October 30, 2008 | to | November 3, 2008 |
| November 7, 2008 | to | November 10, 2008 |
| November 14, 2008 | to | November 17, 2008 |
| November 27, 2008 | to | December 1, 2008 |
The Vignerons Independents, the body representing independent winemakers, holds a number of wine fairs (Salons) in Spring and Autumn each year, which are open to the public and give you the opportunity to taste from a wide selection of vineyards from every region of France, meet the winemakers and purchase wines at cellar door prices.
For autumn 2008 the dates are as follows:-
30 Oct - 3 Nov 2008 - Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) - Hall Tony Garnier
7 - 10 Nov 08 - Reims ( 51 Marne, Champagne) - Parc des Expositions
14-17 Nov 08 - Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) - Grand Palais
27 Nov - 1 Dec 08- Paris (75 Paris, Ile de France) - Porte de Versailles
For more info see www.vigneron-independant.com (in French)
If you are visiting Lille, there is a good B&B on the tram route to the city centre - see Alix’s Garden
Bordeaux is a vibrant and elegant city with its wine and maritime heritage and many improvements to make the place more visitor-friendly in recent years. With plenty of budget airline flights into Bordeaux from the UK and an untold number of vineyards and chateaux to visit (some within the city limits) this could make an ideal short break. In a pedestrianised street in the city centre is a beautifully presented 2 bedroom city centre apartment (sleeps up to 4) for short or medium term lets, for business or pleasure
WIFI and telephone available
Our apartment was selected for its location in the heart of the city on the fashionable Rue des Remparts. This pedestrianised street is situated between the prestigious shopping street “Cours de l’Intendance” and the city’s fine Cathedral “St. André”. Rue des Remparts offers a smart selection of bistro restaurants, cafés, boutique clothes and jewellery shops, delicatessen and specialised gift shops.
The apartment is on the second floor of a bourgeois ‘pierre du taille’ (cut local stone) 19th. century building. This beautiful apartment has been beautifully renovated and finished with all-new furnishings, fixtures and fittings.
Offering a beautiful and light, open plan living space of more than 50m². With original wooden floors, high ceilings, marble fireplace and 3 exquisite cast iron ‘Juliette’ balconies overlooking the street.To the rear of the main room a corridor connects to two separate comfortable double bedrooms and a modern shower room. The apartment is fully furnished and equipped to a very high standard, tastefully presented and modern, but in keeping with its period.
For more about the area - see map
For more info use the enquiry form below:-
Another of those books that leaves you yearning for the gentle pleasures of southern France, this one combines the story of setting up a classy B&B in the Tarn département and 100 recipes based on the food of the area. This is the land of Gaillac wines, Albi and the Tarn Valley on the border between the Languedoc and the SouthWest.
While walking in South-west France, cook and journalist Orlando Murrin dreamed up the adventure of a lifetime: why not wave goodbye to the rat race and come to live in this rural paradise, where the only traffic is the boulangerie van delivering baguettes? His book tells the story of how he set up a boutique b&b and includes 100 amazing recipes. …. they set about transforming the dignified old manor house into a phenomenally successful boutique b&b with its own magnificent kitchen garden. A Table in the Tarn charts the discovery, acquisition and renovation of the property. Along the way, we learn about the local food scene, with its astonishingly rich heritage of ingredients and dishes, about working in France and coping with the famous French bureaucracy, and about the unforeseen delight of working with the locals.Four years on, with countless plaudits and a coveted entry in the classy Mr and Mrs Smith directory, the business attracts visitors from around the world and continues to be a gastronomic destination for anyone seeking peace, tranquillity and above all fantastic food.
As former editor of the BBC Good Food Magazine and Olive Magazine, the owners know something about food and the recipes sound very enticing - Roast Pigeon breasts in Armagnac!
So now you can read the book, try the recipes and stay in the Manoir! The Manoir des Raynaudes is near Carmaux (81 Tarn, Midi-Pyrenees) - see our map of the Tarn and its attractions
A Table in the Tarn: Living, Eating and Cooking in South-west France
Le Manoir de Raynaudes, 81640 Monestiès T: 0033 563 36 91 90 F:0033 563 36 92 09
www.raynaudes.com
In the vicinity you’ll find the delights of the cathedral city of Albi (home of the Albigensian crusades against the Cathar “heretics”, a Toulouse-Lautrec museum - and you could pop in and taste the wines of one of the best Gaillac AC wine producers (red, white, sparkling and rosé) at Domaine de Labarthe at Castanet.
The heart of Gascony the Gers département (32 Midi-Pyrenees) offers what I consider to be the real “France profonde” - quiet, peaceful, gently rolling countryside with a distant view of the Pyrenees. You are miles away from the turbulence of the city and its traffic and fumes. The only very ocassional reminder is a speeding jet of the French Air Force and the high vapour trails of planes crossing the continent.
Yet this does not have to be a rural scene without modern facilities, nor without careful design and style as you will discover at the B&B Chambres d’Hote Les Chenes Verts de Gascogne:
Our Bed and Breakfast is a large restored 17th century gascony stone farmhouse set in 3 hectares of garden with four ensuite bedrooms and swimming pool. Situated in beautiful countryside with outstanding views, surrounded by vines and ideally placed for visiting the many historical sites, tasting the wines and armagnac at the local domaines, shopping at the local markets, visiting the Thermal Spa, house hunting or just lazing by the pool in its tranquil setting.
Here Julie-Ann and her family have magnificently restored an old stone farmhouse into a comfortable and elegant place to stay, with four ensuite bedrooms - 3 with kingsize beds and 1 with twin double beds. Outside there is 12mx6m swimming pool, a garden with covered shaded terrace and wonderful views over the countryside (see photos)
Although somewhat isolated from hustle and bustle (situated north west of Auch at Bezolles) there is nevertheless plenty to do in the region - follow the traces of the Three Musketeers and d’Artagnan, explore the charming towns and their markets or go wine- or Armagnac-hunting!
The house is surrounded by the vines of Domaine Camp du Haut producers of Madiran and Armagnac and Julie-Ann can introduce you to the owners of the Domaine for a tasting - and at least you could walk back afterwards!
In addition they have a very good and elegant website which offers online booking - see www.leschenesvertsdegascogne.com
Les Chenes Verts De Gascogne, la Bourdette, Gers France 32310
T:00 33 562 28 90 50 F: 00 33 562 29 28 51
see our map and more info on the area
cforms contact form by delicious:days
For more info and photos click Read more on this…
The organic vineyard of Chateau Haut Garrigue in the village of Saussignac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) near Bergerac has it all - a wonderful situation overlooking the Dordogne valley; a self-contained gite “The Grape Escape”, friendly English-speaking (well, Irish) hosts and a real opportunity to see and learn more about wine and wine-making (if that’s what you want!).
Allez Vins! used to import wines from this domaine when it was run by its previous owners, but now it is being run organically under the title “Wild Earth Vineyards” by the enthusiastic and innovative new owners, Sean and Caroline Feely.
The Grape Escape, our well-equipped 4-person gite (self-catering holiday house) is surrounded by organic vineyards and offers fabulous views across the Dordogne valley. It is semi-detached from the main farmhouse facing onto the courtyard on one side and onto the vines on the two sides built out over the vineyard.
As our guests, you are very welcome to spend time with us to learn about our wine and winemaking, taste our wines and perhaps even take part in vineyard or winery activity depending on the time of year and your energy!
No chance for me to taste their wine yet - they produce red, rosé and white Bergerac AC wines and semi-sweet and botytised dessert Saussignac AC wines. (If you want to try them they will be showing their wines at the Real Food Festival at Earls Court, London from 24-27 April 2008).
For more info on the gite, wines and other offerings contact Chateau Haut Garrigue
