Besançon Christmas Market (Doubs, Franche Comte) runs from 28 Nov - 24 Dec 2008.
Besancon the capital of Franche-Comté, has just been declared as a Unesco World Heritage site.
Fortified by Vauban, it has been recognised for its outstanding universal value by the World Heritage Committee.
The town’s Christmas Market offers carol singing, arts and crafts, local products, folk dancing and other street entertainment.
For more info see www.besancon-tourisme.com
Besancon is also famous for being the birthplace of celebrity chef Raymond Blanc, proprietor of the Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons in Oxfordshire and host of the BBC series “The Restaurant“.
Monsieur Blanc has just published a new book A Taste of My Life:
Raymond Blanc knows more about food and cooking than pretty much anyone else on earth, and his life to date has been a search for culinary perfection. Now, for the first time, he tells the story of that search and shares the secrets he has learned along the way.
North Berwick-based French specialists Devigne Wines and Confit Direct have some interesting Christmas offers on Champagne and some lesser-known French Sparkling wines such as Cremants from Burgundy (Cremant de Bourgogne Chardonnay), Jura (Cremant de Jura Rosé made from the Poulsard grape), Gaillac in SW France (Mauzac and Len de l’El grapes), a Methode Traditionelle from the Cotes de Duras (unusual, in that it is a white wine made from two red grape varieties (Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon) and a low alcohol Petillant de Muscat from St Sardos in the Midi-Pyrenees.
So you could try something a little different for your festive fizz. 10% off a mixed case of sparkling wines,
The other half of the business specialises in gourmet foods from SW France and beyond, including duck and goose products such as confit, rillettes, patés, cassoulet and soups, jams, bottled fruit, tapenade and anchoiades and even snails!
Devigne Wines and Confit Direct
Michael & Patricia Robertson, PO Box 13748, North Berwick
EH39 9AA
Tel: 01620 890860 Fax: 05600 756287
Arras Christmas Market (Pas-de-Calais) runs 27 Nov to 24 Dec 2008
Arras, with its impressive squares (places), holds a spectacular Christmas market on the Grand Place. This market has about 50 mini wooden chalets offering offer a wide selection of arts and crafts, as well as local delicacies such as “Les Coeurs d’Arras” (a heart shaped biscuit with ginger and cheese flavourings.
Craft exhibits from Poland, Vietnam, Morocco, Indonesia and Africa; regional food and drink from the Auvergne, Savoy, Holland and Southwest France as well as the local region.
For more info see www.ot-arras.fr/
Sad to report that SpeedFerries service from Dover to Boulogne has now closed, as the Administrators have not managed to sell the business as a going concern. All future sailings are cancelled, and your best hope for a refund of pre-booked tickets or vouchers is likely to be through the credit card companies if you paid by credit card (not debit card).
According to the Speedferries website (26 November 2008):-
The Joint Administrators regretfully announce the closure of Speedferries Limited (in administration). The Joint Administrators have been exploring every possible avenue to save the business since 12 November 2008 and it is unfortunate that a buyer for the business has not been found.
Speedferries Limited (in administration) will now cease to operate services between Dover and Boulogne and customers with pre-booked tickets are advised to seek alternative travel arrangements.
Customers who have booked by way of credit card should contact their credit card providers to determine if they are eligible to claim a refund for these now cancelled services.
All creditors, including customers who are affected by the cancelled crossings, will be contacted by the Joint Administrators in due course
Amiens Christmas Market (80 Somme, Picardie) runs from 29 Nov - 27 Dec 2008
Said to be the biggest and greatest Christmas market in Northern France, Amiens town centre is converted into a festive Christmas scene. Look our for stalls offering local eel, shrimp, duck and trout, as well as Beauvais chocolate and Amiens macaroons
This year Amiens will be hosting 125 woodstalls which will extend from rue de Noyon to the Hôtel de ville (city hall) and the Halles du Beffroi (Belfry covered market). From France and elsewhere, these chalets will provide you with many gift ideas – crafts, decorations and gourmet products – in an atmosphere filled with the sweet aromas and flavours of the Christmas and New Year celebrations.
More colourful than ever, these chalets will set the scene of this key event for young and old to enjoy! A huge arch set up on rue de Noyon is the entrance to the market and its magical village.
For the occasion the entire city centre will be immersed in the imaginary world of Jules Verne and invites visitors to explore this world of dreams and festivities.
Also throughout December the fine gothic cathedral is the centre of a dramatic light show each evening which illuminates the building and brings out is architectural splendour with la cathédrale en couleurs - the Cathedral of Notre Dame in colour!
For more info see www.visit-amiens.com
Dijon is famed for its mustard (Moutarde de Dijon) and hence it comes as a shock to hear that the company Maille is closing its mustard factory in Dijon (21 Cote d’Or, Burgundy). Whilst that is sad for the 300 or so workers, it does transpire that in any case most Dijon mustard is made outside Burgundy; that Maille is owned by multi-national conglomerate Unileve; and that surprisingly Dijon mustard is not covered by any “Appellation Controllee”, which would otherwise protect the name from being used elsewhere or for non-standard products.
Dijon mustard is essentially a blend of brown and white mustard seeds mixed with wine vinegar. Purists argue that only wine vinegar made from good wine will do, and that cheaper wines produce poorer mustards.
Generally if a mustard is called “a l’Ancienne” it is a wholegrain mustard as distinct from a smooth mustard which tends to affect the texture rather than the taste.
The other well-known French mustard is from Meaux (77 Seine et Marne, Ile de France) the same area as the Brie de Meaux cheese - unfortunately they do not go well together! Here Pommery produce a mustard with additional spices (secret recipe of course) as a wholegrain mustard in distinctive earthenware crocks with a cork stopper - always looks good on the table.
Maille still has a boutique shop in Dijon at 32, rue de la Liberté - and one in Paris at 6, place de la Madeleine
in the 8th arrondisement - close to those other foodie meccas of Fauchon and Hediard.
For more info on Maille, its range of products and shops see http://www.maille.com
English mustard is ground mustard seed which is made into a paste often with just water, or sometimes beer or cider. It is much hotter than French mustard, and the best known example is Coleman’s in the bright yellow tin - Colemans is also owned by Unilever!
Alsace hosts many Christmas markets - building on its links and traditions with neighbouring Germany. Strasbourg hosts what is probably the biggest and best known
For a full list of Christmas Markets in Alsace see http://noel.tourisme-alsace.com
However, given free choice I would probably recommend Colmar, It is smaller than Strasbourg, but that makes it more intimate and atmospheric. It is also a very attractive town with its canals and timbered building - and is in the heart of the Alsace wine region.
Colmar Christmas Market (Haut-Rhin, Alsace) runs from 22 Nov to 31 Dec 2008.
The annual Colmar Christmas market is regarded as one of the most unusual French markets with its special character. It takes place in the Old Town at 5 various venues: Petite Venise for children, Place des Dominicains, Place de l’Ancienne Douane, Place Jeanne d’Arc and inside the Koifhus, the old customs house.
The magic of Christmas in Colmar, first of all there’s the ambiance of the Old Town, illuminated and decorated like a fairy tale : a historic setting made magical by the Christmas illuminations which, in this festive period, blend harmoniously with the wonderful lighting designed to enhance the town’s heritage, and lay a soothing aura of light over the centre of Colmar.
Town centre which is essentially pedestrian, comprises numerous architectural treasures such as monuments, churches, museums and alleys, built for the most imposing from Middle Age to 19th century. Do not miss to be amazed by the Maison Pfister, the Koïfhus, Unterlinden museum, Little Venice, the House of the Heads and Saint Martin Collegiate church.
The whole town is decorated like a dream to turn the old centre into a veritable open-air theatre where the warm Christmas mood envelops the heart of the town
For more info see www.noel-colmar.com
Lille Christmas Market (19 November to 30 December 2008) has to be worth a trip - at any time of year Lille is worth a visit, with its Vauban Citadel, Grand Place and Vielle Ville (medieval old town) there is always plenty to do - shopping, galleries, gastronomy.
The month-long Christmas Market in Lille is the largest in Northern France and has been a tradition for centuries. The market is extremely popular with the British because of the Eurostar link and proximity to the Channel ferry ports - especially the budget ferry Norfolkline terminal at Dunkerque.
Visitors to this market quickly get into the festive spirit. The whole of the Place Rihour, in the centre of town, is taken over by about 80 stalls selling arts and crafts and local cuisine. There’s entertainment for children in the shape of theatre and games and a chance to sample traditional French Christmas delicacies. A Big Wheel is set up in Grand’Place (Place du General de Gaulle). Visitors with children can have photos taken with Father Christmas, who attends the market and participates in a spectacular event on Saturday 20th December - when he ‘falls’ from the Belfry.
For more info see www.lilletourism.com
Reims (Marne, Champagne) is famous for Champagne, its Cathedral and its Christmas market.
A weekend here between 21 Nov and 28 Dec 2008 will offer an opportunity to indulge in all three.
During the run-up to Christmas, Reims’ Christmas Village combines street entertainment, magicians, carol singers and market stalls selling Christmas gifts, decorations and food.
110 wooden huts form the Christmas Market inPlace d’Erlon and along the rue Condorcet and rue Théodore Dubois. There will be numerous events held each weekend including parades, as well as orchestra and brass band concerts. You can also listen to live jazz performed every Wednesday and Friday afternoon. There will be a special visit with St. Nicolas on the 6 December, but Father Christmas welcomes the children every day in his chalet. For more information, visit the Reims tourist office website at www.reims-tourisme.com.
UPDATE: The boat Speed One has been released by the French authorities and can return to the UK, which should make it easier for the Administrators to sell the company, hopefully as a going concern. A further statement is expected on 26 November 2008,
According to the Speedferries website the ferry company is now “in Administration” , which as I understand it allows for accountants to try to rescue the Company’s assets and decide if the business can continue or be sold as a going concern. On an optimistic note, crossings are cancelled only until 18 November for now, and customers advised to keep any pre-booked ticket vouchers. Let’s hope that they can find a way to rescue the company and all those pre-booked and paid tickets. This should be in the interests of all concerned, including the Port of Boulogne and the Port of Dover.
The affairs, business and property of the Company are being managed by the Joint Administrators, A Swarbrick and T Burton, who act as agents of the Company only and without personal liability.
Customers
Crossings have been cancelled for 14, 15, 16, 17 and 18 November 2008 and customers are asked to wait for further information on future crossings and to keep any pre-booked tickets.We will continue to keep you updated with developments in respect of the long term plans for Speedferries and notify you as soon as possible via the Company website if changes are proposed to be made which will affect your current position.
For further enquiries please contact customer services on 0871 222 7456 or refer to previous statements.
Angela Swarbrick and Tom Burton
Joint Administrators
The recent news that Speedferries’ fast ferry service between Dover and Boulogne has been suspended has caused much consternation amongst travellers to France. One of the unique features of the Speedferries offer was opportunity to purchase books of up to 10 open tickets in advance at highly discounted prices, and this proved very popular with frequent travellers, especially ex-pats and those with property in France.
Unfortunately there is not much sign of the service being resumed. BBC Radio 4’s You and Yours programme ran a story on the problems on Wednesday 12 November, and even the intrepid BBC reporters were unable to get any new statement from the company. Hence everything is log-jammed whilst negotiations between Speedferries and the Port of Boulogne continue.
The Speedferries website merely has this update:
Wednesday 12th November
Talks are continuing in Boulogne between SpeedFerries representatives and the Boulogne Chamber of Commerce in order to reach a resolution. Any further updates will be posted here as soon as they become available.
Meanwhile, the Port of Boulogne has issued this statement (10 Nov 2008):-
Due to an important payment delay by SpeedFerries referring to port dues the shipbroker acting for the account of Chamber of Commerce had obtained since some time the agreement of the Commerce Tribunal an ordnance abling him to seize the ship in view to be paid.
The General Management of Speedferries has been advised by the Chamber of Commerce of this act long ago and has taken no measure after many promises.
Consequently the ship broker has taken the decision yesterday night to proceed to the seizing of the ship to guarantee the payments.
Speedone is immobilized in the port of Boulogne up to a agreement with SpeedFerries.
The Chamber of Commerce is opened to all solutions to solve favourably and rapidly this problem in view to resume the service as soon as possible.
The one point for optimism must be that it has to be in the interests of the French to retain this service. It has brought visitors to Boulogne and the surrounding area and coastline, who would otherwise have landed at Calais and would have been whisked by the autoroutes inland without stopping. As much as I do like Calais town (especially the Hotel de Ville), the arrival from the UK is not particularly welcoming and traffic is herded through an industrial landscape and onto the autoroutes - you have to make a real effort to divert into the town of Calais. Whereas the arrival in Boulogne is very central, and the views of the town entice you stop awhile and explore.
For the moment you can still get good prices on the alternative routes to Calais and Dunkerque - Seafrance, P&O and Norfolkline. But no indication that these companies will accept Speedferries tickets.
Norfolkline tends to have some of the cheapest fares, but the crossing to Dunkerque is a little longer, but the boats are all modern and comfortable.
Clearly there are a lot of anxious and angry people - here are some of the comments on this website:-
“I find it amazing that speedferries sold me a block of ten tickets for £250 on October 21st knowing that they had problems, luckily I bought with a credit card so if they go under I should be ok.”(J G Harrison)
“having spoken to a very rude speedferries rep… i was told that my prebooked tickets are not refundable ,,, told to basicially to read the small print.. I have sixteen outstanding so i will issue proceedings against speedferries if they don’t or can’t honour them..” (donluigi)
“Why do people do this? Speedferry was a fantastic service that encouraged lots of people to explore further down the French coast. Think Audressele, Ambleteuse & Wimereux. You had to go through Boulogne which made us, if not others, want to explore more. If the French Government, or the Boulogne Chamber of Commerce, want to favour their own operators, why would we still be loyal? Although Speedferry was Britsh registered, it was Danish in originality and it brough a lot of trade to Boulogne who had been loosing out massively to Calais - think Citi Europe - not everyones cup of tea but a huge money spinner. We would be so sad to see it go - hope people see that is is more than about money, it is about competition! “(Laura)
“Will i be refunded for for the 130 euros i had to find to get back to the UK and what will happen to the rest of my block tickets of which i have 9 left?” (M K Hill)
“Bonne Chance Speedferries. Speedferries was, hopefully will be again, a brilliant service and a brave little company which deserves to succeed. I found their staff polite and cheerful, but I can understand that recently they may have slipped a bit. We all get a bit tense when it looks as if we might be about to join the unemployed. When they started selling blocks of tickets I thought about buying some, but decided against it. I guessed that they were trying to bring in cash. This indicated they might be having cash flow problems. The safety annoucements for Speed One always made me smile, having realised that there wasn’t a Speed 2, 3… The main ferry operators were obviously out to get rid of them. Yesterday, a ferry operators representative ‘put the boot in’ on Radio 4’s You and Yours. If it was in my power to help them, I would.” (Ash)
“Speedferries is a great service that has reduced ALL fares across the channel. I use every year Speedferries to visit Boulogne. My six year old daughter loves swimming and skating at the excellent sports centre at St Martin Boulogne and eating at Flunch. For those of us who can’t afford skiing it made an excellent winter break. Let us hope these problems can be resolved and the customers continue to use the service and show some loyalty to a company that has saved us all money during the last four years.” (Adam Wray)
I can understand the attraction of fishing, but have never dabbled, always arguing that I do not have enough time to indulge in an activity which is so quintissentially time-consuming. Like all the best leisure pursuits, I suspect fishing enables you to escape into another world which is virtually timeless and far removed from the pressures of modern life.
To be able to pursue this interest in the heart of France in a beautiful setting, dominated by a fine chateau, looks even more tempting - and this is what is on offer at the Chateau de Tigny at Pouilly-Sous-Charlieu (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) north of Roanne near Charlieu.
Here Tony and Lorraine Dicks bought the chateau some 18 months ago, since when they have been renovating the chateau, preparing and stocking the lake and coping with French bureaucracy. The result looks to be stunning, with some gite acccommodation also coming on stream in 2009!
The charming medieval village of Charlieu is steeped in history and was founded in 875 by Benedictine monks from the Touraine. Charlieu has many attractions such as the Abbey Benedictine, a beautiful church, museums, plus many bars, shops and restaurants. Surrounded by country lanes and woodlands Charlieu is an idyllic place suitable for walking, cycling and enjoying the fresh country air. There are many local town markets open during the week so there is always plenty to do.
The enchanting Chateau de Tigny is a 16th century French Bourguignon style castle complete with two towers and a beautiful pigeonnier. The Chateau is surrounded by a moat on three sides.
Situated in front of the Chateau is a tranquil, 12 acre lake stocked with large Carp making Chateau de Tigny a most desirable place for Carp fishing holiday’s. The lake is for 1- 6 anglers.
Either stay in our luxury bed and breakfast accommodation or you can choose the “Drive-and Survive” package. The Chateau offers two luxury suites of accommodation. The Queen Ann suite has a romantic four-poster bed and the Rococo suite, comprising of a double and two single beds, which can sleep up to a family of four. The rooms are both en-suite and a continental breakfast is included.
And, whilst the main attraction may be the carp fishing for some, there is plenty for non-anglers to enjoyThere are resident Barn Owls in the front Tower, Red Squirrels , Eagles and Hawks around the grounds with kingfishers on the lake, ducks on the islands and the occasional deer in the fields behind the lake - ideal if you are in to photography, painting or just enjoying the tranquility of the French countryside!
For more info see www.chateaudetigny.com
For more info on Charlieu see www.ville-charlieu.fr
Amanda Lawrence’s new bookWhite Stone, Black Wine: focuses on part of deepest South West France, and although subtitled ” Life Among the Ancient Vineyards of the Quercy Blanc” it is about so much more than wine, as important as this is. Quercy is the ancient name for an area which includes the departements of Lot (46) and Lot-et-Garonne(47) in the Midi-Pyrenees, with the town of Cahors at is heart. The white limestone of the area gives the landscape and buildings of the area their distinctive style. Much of the countryside is and was covered with various types of oak trees (latin:quercus) and the predominant wine is the deeply coloured (black) wine of Cahors.
The Quercy Blanc - named for its white stone - is a wild and sparsely populated area of rural France, squeezed between the great wine trading port of Bordeaux and the fizzing city of the south, Toulouse. It’s home to the goose and t