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Brittany is so different from the rest of France, especially the departement of Finistere (29 Bretagne) which stretches to the “end of the world” and the most westerly points of mainlaind France. It includes the most pleasant port of entry by sea into France at Roscoff on Brittany’s north coast. Served by Brittany Ferries from Plymouth and Cork in Ireland and by Irish Ferries to Rosslare, this is an unhurried and civilised gateway – a working fishing port with a medieval centre. The fishing industry is important, yet it does not dominate the town with large industrial estates and warehouses, and you can be tempted to tarry a while and enjoy the port, the town and the Ile de Batz just offshore.

The town has a number of good hotels, and even the Ibis, which I usually expect to be another functional forumula businessman’s hotel is in the heart of the town, with rooms offering a view over the harbour and beyond.

It has its tourist attractions, including boat trips to the Ile de Batz and the Onion Johnnies Museum ( La maison des Johnnies et de l’oignon de Roscoff), which features the history of the local pink onions and the farmers who went far and wide to sell their onions. often off the back (or front) of a bicycle. Every August the town celebrates this local delicacy with a 2–day Fete de l‘Ognon Rose (21–21 August in 2008) It has its share of tourist shops selling souvenirs and “genuine” local specialities and novelties.

Compare the town of Concarneau on the southern coast of Finistere – another busy fishing port in a favoured position and with a world-renown medieval walled city – the Ville Close. A little separate from the modern town over a narrow moated entrance (for defensive purposes) the historic city looks impressive from the outside. However, on entering the Ville Close, there is little sign of any civic pride or care – weeds abound, the walkway along the city walls is closed at points because it is dangerous; grassy areas which would make attractive parkland or picnic areas have been left as scrub. The superificially smarter parts are along the main street with its wealth of tourist shops which dominate the place.

I fo not want a Disney-type sanitised townscape, but compared to other smaller and less well-endowed places in France, the lack of any evident civic care, other than a few plants at the entrance, left me seriously under-impressed – indeed heartily disappointed. Which is why Roscoff made such a good impression.

To check Brittany Ferries timetables and fares for Roscoff and other French destinations CLICK HERE

Conveniently situated a kilometre or so off the main RN10 route (heading for Bordeaux, Aquitaine and the Basque country) near Limalonges (79 Deux Sevres, Poitou-Charentes) is an English run Chambres d’Hote run by Josie and Dave Duffield.
Situated in the heart of Poitou Charentes (roughly mid-way between Poitiers and Angouleme) bordering the Charente and Vienne departments, the area has a gentle climate and varied countryside “reputed to have the most sunshine hours away from the Mediterranean coast.”

When I can I prefer to use routes such as the N10 down to Bordeaux or the Dordogne - good quality roads, generally light traffic (away from the main towns),less frenetic (and cheaper) than the autoroute, and plenty of opportunity to break the journey with a little detour into a “centre ville” for a coffee or croissant, and a stroll around the shops to stock up for the picnic lunch. It does however take longer, but you are likely to arrive less hassled and more in tune with France.

The comfortable accommodation offered includes 3 large en-suite bedrooms (2 doubles, 1 of which can be made into a family room) and 1 twin) - each room has natural stone walls and wooden beams. Prices which include breakfast start at €30 for a single, or €45 for a double. An ideal overnight stop, a base for visiting the region (the Marais Poitevin, la Rochelle and Cognac are all within range) and perhaps a chance tp explore another region which too many of us hurtle through rather than savour. And of course, your hosts will be able to offer good advice on where to go, where to eat or the name of a good notaire if you are looking to buy property in the region.

They also welcome caravans and motorhomes for a night stop-over on the journey south (or north) which could be a welcome change from commercial campsites or motorway “aires”.
See our customised Google Map of Poitou-Charentes
For more info, availability and bookings use the form below:-

cforms contact form by delicious:days

Another major French spectacle takes place on 12 October 2008 with the annual professional cycle race from Paris to Tours in the Loire Valley. Starting on the outskirts of the capital the route extends over 250km (over 160 miles) and takes about 5-6 hours before arriving in the city centre of Tours.

There is always a great carnival atmosphere surrounding this prestigious race, which tends to attract many of the top names in the sport.

The best advice is to avoid Tours city centre for the day, unless you want to see the event - although the main routes and the A10 autoroute should not be unduly affected.

For more info see www.letour.fr/

Register online before 30 November 2008 and you can get free tickets for the 2009 France Show (previously known as Vive la France) which runs from 9-11 January 2009 at London’s Earls Court and is the UK’s biggest France exhibition.

MORE travel ideas to explore
MORE French cuisine, including Jean-Christophe Novelli’s bistro
MORE wine theatres (4 instead of 2 last year)
NEW entertainment stage (Yes, the Can-Can girls are back)
NEW champagne and oyster bar within Property sector
and so many NEW surprises….

After 30 November tickets will be £10 each.

For more info see www.thefranceshow.com/

The Discovery of France by Graham Robb has proved to be a fascinating book on the history not so much of France as of the peoples of France. The book tries to make sense of the many contradictions and facets of France as we experience it as fellow citizens of Europe, and in its telling you learn a lot about French history.
We tend to think of France as a relatively homoegenous country and race - an assumption soon exposed when you consider the different outlook, habits and physical appearance of the people of Brittany compared to those of Provence or the Languedoc. To many “French” has been a foreign, imposed language and identity, an example of the rational and enlightened intellectual state imposing its will on disparate and wayward or even “backward” provincial or rustic peoples.
Unlike the UK, which being an island relatively quickly assumed a degree of national identity fairly easily, the French were until relatively recently much more parochial outside of the major cities. I recall talking to an old man in the Tarn departement some 20 years ago, who had never travelled more than 20 kilometres in his 78 years. The size of France, and the relatively late onset of modern industrial society with its roads, railways, trade and transport meant that many parts of the country were out of reach of the state, the national rule of law and way of life.
It is still evident that many parts of rural France in departements such as the Lot in the South West, were and are relatively poor. But what visitors, tourists and incomers view as a rural idyll, was inevitably for many of the local population an unbearably hard existence with little opportunity or inclination to enjoy the view, the peacefulness or nature. This was all compounded by the isolation imposed by the landscape and lack of means or affordability of transport.
I suspect that there is a similar story to be told of parts of the UK, but given the sheer size and nature of the topography of France, it was obviously much more widespread.
The book may not provide all the answers to the infuriating contradictions that the French display, but it is an entertaining and enlightening read, which will help anyone trying to understand our neighbours.
Thoroughly recommended reading in my view!

Illuminating, engrossing and full of surprises, “The Discovery of France” is a literary exploration of a country few will recognize; from maps and migration to magic, language and landscape, it’s a book that reveals the ‘real’ past of France to tell the whole story - and history - of this remarkable nation. ‘With gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people, places and customs, Robb, on brilliant form, takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of France’ - “Independent”. ‘Certain books strain the patience of those close to you. How many times can you demand: ‘Look at this! Can you imagine? Did you know that?’ without actually handing over the volume? This is such a book’ - “Mail on Sunday”. ‘An extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair traveller’ - “Daily Telegraph”.

The Discovery of France by Graham Robb

France always seems to be a little schizophrenic about new technology - rather backward and bureaucratic in some areas, yet at the cutting edge in others. France invented and rolled out Minitel nationally many years ago which was a pre-cursor to the web and an impressive technology, but sadly overtaken by the personal computer and Internet Explorer. Yet many more rural establishments in France do not accept credit/debit cards - especially if they are not French. Then there is the TGV high speed train network which is the envy of many other countries.

As for internet access the picture is patchy and a little unpredictable. Naturally the major cities are well provided with internet cafes and high speed residential connections. But even in the most isolated areas some high speed internet speeds are available, often supported by local authorities, seeing the web as a valuable asset in supporting the local economy and stemming population drift to the major conurbations.

For the traveller in France the picture is improving rapidly - internet cafes can be found in many towns and villages - the cafe owners recognising that this will give them an extra edge in attracting customers,
Most of the major hotel chains such as upmarket Mercure and Novotel and even budget hotels such as Ibis, Etap and Forumule One will offer Wi-Fi (pronounced “wiffee”). Of course, your needs will depend on whether you carry a portable PC or other device with you - but even then many hotels, including small independents, will offer a free terminal in reception with access to the internet.
Now campsites are following suit, such that the Michelin Guide to Camping in France now includes symbols for internet access. We recently visited an idyllic campsite on the Brittany coast where you could have a delightful view over the coastline, whilst tapping away on your computer catching up on your emails - all included in the campsite fee. But although its good to be able to do so, with scenery like that the keyboard and screen seem an unwelcome diversion.
There are other offerings from the main French mobile phone networks - including a wireless 3G USB key (cle internet 3G) similar to that available in the UK from networks such as Vodafone. Depending on your needs and budget you can purchase a pay-as-you-go Internet USB device with no contract - e.g. SFR offer one for €99 and for each day you want to use it the cost is €10 per day for 24-hour access; Orange and the other networks offer similar options - you may need a French bank account and/or a French address to sign up to some of the plans. However, roaming fees on the main UK mobile phone networks can be very expensive for data - check with the operator before you leave.

UPDATE The Geant Casino Hypermarket in Brest (29 Finistere, Brittany) offers free wi-fi throughout the shopping mall.

The French networks also offer a wide coverage on WiFi Hotspots - for many of which you can purchase airtime online or by subscribing to a network before arriving in France such as Freedom4Wifi

Green and Blue, winners of Decanter’s Small Independent Wine Merchant of the Year Award 2008 stock two wines which are seldom seen in the UK - Entraygues et du Fel AC and Marcillac AC. These wines are really from deepest Southwest France coming from the upper Lot Valley and the Aveyron
 

2005 Laurent Mousset Entraygues et du Fel’  (£9.10) Like the wines of Marcillac, the dominant variety here is Fer Servadou although Laurent Mousset chooses to add some Cabernet Franc for a bit of added weight and texture.  It is a wine typical of the reds from the southwest corner which we love so dearly.  The red fruit is bright and zippy and although there is some rustic grip (these are not slick, glossy wines), they are essentially light and fairly soft.  These are wines to refresh body and soul and indeed, they used to be drunk instead of water (which sounds like a recipe for a far more entertaining day than those we spend sipping piously on Evian).   Although there is fabulous earth and stone flavours underlying the red cherry and raspberry fruit, this is not a wine to be studied with reverence, rather knocked back with gusto.

2006 Domaine du Cros Marcillac ‘Lo Sang del Pais’  (£8.75) Marcillac is rarely seen outside its own little part of SW France between Rodez and the beginnings of the Auvergne. It’s not because the wines can’t be good, but there’s just so little to go round – only eight independent winemakers exist and the number can’t expand because all the best sites (particularly the incredibly steep south-facing slopes with their dramatic terracotta coloured soil) are already taken.  It’s the combination of soil and the mansois grape that gives Marcillac it’s particular taste, a sort of wild, vibrant, leafy, raspberry and bramble fruit that’s fresh and moreish.

Philippe Teulier makes two styles of wine, his basic, traditional style (which this is) and a oaked version from older vines.  While we love both, the purity of the gamey fruit in this swung it for us on this occasion

South London’s Green & Blue won Independent Wine Merchant of the Year in the Under 12 staff category. The judges praised the tiny two-shop chain run by former Conran sommelier Kate Thal, for its attention to detail, noting the fact that ’staff will even print out a tasting note’ if the wine is for a gift!

Green & Blue Lordship Lane, 38 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich London SE22 8HJ T: 0208 693 9250 F: 0208 693 9260

Green & Blue Clapham, 20 - 26 Bedford Road, Clapham. London SW4 7HJ   T: 0207 498 9648 F: 0207 498 9649

 Website: http://www.greenandbluewines.com

If you are ever lucky enough to get to the Aveyron, we can recommend some excellent cottages to rent owned by a couple of Californians – see wwww.frenchduck.com

Festival of the Wine Press

In Chenove (Cote d’Or, Bourgogne) they celebrate the wine press from 19-21 September 2008 - Fete de la Pressee

Some of the first wooden wine presses in France were constructed here in the 13th Century, and some of them are huge - capable of grapes to produce 23,000 litres of wine!

Over the three days they get one of these mighty machines working (it is harvest time after all) and supply the usual jollity, ceremony, music, dancing and the opportuinity to try good local food and wine!

For more info see www.ville-chenove.fr

The weekend of 20/21 September 2008 are designated as European Heritage Days (Journees European du Patrimoine), an event which the French approach with huge enthusiasm, Naturally proud of their history, heritage and local traditions, this annual weekend offers all manner of insights into French life and culture - whether it be artists, architecture, craft skills, food and wine production.

For example you could visit a Paris Bus Interchange at Montrouge, and learn something of the history and future of bus travel; In Brittany at
La Bosse de Bretagne (Ille-et-Vilaine) you can catch demonstrations of the skill of the stonemason; in Marseille there is a display and explanation of Le Corbusier’s approach to town planning. In fact in almost every corner of France you will find some special event which will enlighten and entertain. - consult the local tourist office or the national website (in French), where there is a searchable map of all the events and timings at www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr

I remain of the view that Picardie is an area that is often overlooked or passed by or through on the way to somewhere else – Paris and south! But given its proximity to the UK (both from Calais/Boulogne/Dunkerque – and the LD lines terminal at Dieppe) it does offer an attractive and interesting destination for a short break. Apart from the glorious coastline and abundant wildlife you can also indulge in a bit of retail therapy! 

The Rederies in Amiens – Sunday 5 October 2008

Amiens is not only a great city to visit with its fine Gothic cathedral, it also holds one of the best markets in northern France. IndOver 2000 stall holders, professionals and Amiens inhabitants take part in the “Réderies”.which attracts visitors from all over northern Europe.

Fouquerolles (near Laon) hosts an annual Book Festival (Fete du Livre) from 20-28 September 2008 which celebrates the written word in all its forms. There are about 10,000 people every year participating in this event with second hand books, rare books, 40 to 50 writers meeting the public and signing their books and participating in conferences. There will also be entertainment for the whole family thorough the day: street entertainers, musicians and story tellers, everything you need to spend an excellent weekend.

There seems to be increasing evidence that the Loire Valley is producing ever better Sauvignon Blanc wines - especially from the Touraine (south of Tours) and east towards Sancerre (which is technically from the “Centre”, but is nevertheless in the valley of the river Loire!) There is a significant area from the southern Touraine eastwards to the appellations of Quincy, Reulilly and Menetou-Salon, which consistently produce some of the most exciting Sauvignons and at reasonable prices. Whether this is due to climate change, or more likely improved techniques in the vineyard and cellar is a moot point.

If it is climate change, then this may cause a little concern, as the best Sauvignon Blancs are cool climate wines - so maybe England may come into the reckoning in another 10-20 years!

I confess to being a little cynical about Wine Awards – there are so many awards that it ends up a bit like Google searches – you know that just because a wine is at the top of the list does not necessarily mean that it is in any objective sense the best – but also how many of us bother to read the results on the 3^rd,4^th or lower pages, which just might hide the “nugget” which is what you are looking for.

However a quick skim of the International Wine Challenge results 2008 did reveal an old favourite - a wine which I first imported over 10 years ago – Domaine Joel Delaunay’s Touraine Sauvignon 2007.Domaine Joel Delaunay is situated on the valley sides above the river Cher – a small family run domaine, which always offers a warm welcome.

Majestic are offering their Domaine Joel Delaunay 2007 Touraine Sauvignon AC – “Rich, steely Sauvignon just bursting with gooseberry fruit, from a superb small grower.” and it won a Gold Medal in this year’s Wine Awards.

http://www.joeldelaunay.com/

Other examples of great Loire valley whites include another Touraine Sauvignon from Domaine Octavie at Oisly, and the wines of Michel Gendrier at Domaine des Huards in Cour-Cheverny.

It began in 1972 when a journalist challenged Fleet Street to “Bring Back the Beaujolais” to London copying the similar “race” to get the first bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau wine to Paris. In those days the new vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau could not by law be allowed to leave the producers’ cellars near Macon until midnight on the first Thursay in November. Hence numerous serious (and not so serious) attempts were made by car, train, plane etc to get the first bottles to London but the RAF rather spoiled the party by using a Harrier Jump-Jet and broke all records!

Of course, in the meantime, the popularity of Beaujolais Nouveau has plummeted, so much so that it can be difficult to find in the UK, and many wine merchants do not bother to import it. Our tastes have changed in the last 36 years and we now have such a wide range of more interesting and better value wines to choose from. The tragedy is that much in the way that Liebfraumilch tarnished the image of much better German wines, so Nouveau led consumers to avoid proper Beaujolais, which whilst still a ligher fruitier style than say Syrah, can nevertheless offer some classy drinking and some wines of depth and complexity.

However, there is still a celebration of Nouveau and its Anglo-French tradition with a charity event using classic British cars, and focussed more on fundraising and the shortest distance rather than speed. The only drawback of this approach is that many classic sports cars have precious little boot space for those cases of wine!

In 2006, by kind permission by Lord March, The Beaujolais Run® made its spiritual home at Goodwood. In the same year, the event became a five day event showcasing the best the UK and France has to offer. Hackett is synonymous with this as overall event sponsor.

For 2008 The Beaujolais Run® hits London and Paris. Starting by kind permission of Sir Terence Conran from Bibendum in Kensington. The ‘Run then halts in Paris for a reception at the British Embassy before the following day sees the navigational shoot out at the heart of the event en route to Macon. A black tie prize giving dinner awaits competitors in Paris on the return leg, before returning to London to light up the King Road to celebrate the return of the new harvest.

The Beaujolais Run ® has evolved to become a navigational shoot out over a cryptic checkpoint course in deepest Burgundy. This format ensures Austin and Aston, Jaguar and Jalpa and Porsche and Prius can compete on a level playing field. Maps, Sat Nav and Laptops are all acceptable modes of navigation on the event. Teams compete for the honour of achieving P1 on the grid the following year (highest fundraising team) and P2, the team that covers the shortest distance on the navigational trial.

For more info on The Beaujolais Run ® see www.beaujolaisrun.com

For 2008 Beaujolais Nouveau day is Thursday 21 November 2008. A reliable supplier of decent Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau is Nick Dobson Wines

UPDATE - I hear from Ed Green that there is at least one other Beaujolais event:-

Hackett is not the only “Charity Bojolly Run”. We have been running an event for over 20 years and for the past decade we have offered Quality Crus to match trhe Crews and Cruise. We run our event from deep in Beaujolais (Blace to be precise)and use local producers including those in Fleurie. Hackett is an event for the well heeled who can afford anythingand they don’t seem to actually go into Beuajolais (ie they stop in Macon and Paris?). Our event will be covering the Beaujolais Crus and making a visit to Champagne while working for two charities. Anyone interested in the 2009 event - get in touch with me (tedgreen49@yahoo.co.uk). And furthermore it is NOT a race. It’s a navigation skills event.

It can be a bit of a surprise to discover just how cosmopolitan rural France can be – a tribute to its sheer attractiveness to many nations – so a small hotel/B&B run by a Dane and a New Zealander in a French chateau near Bordeaux could be an interesting combination with an intriguing mix of cultures and traditions. Situated in Meihan (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) within easy reach of St Emilion and the other less-pictureseque Bordeaux vineyards – and the vineyards of the Cotes du Marmandais and Cotes de Duras.

Chez Kelly is a Hip-Chic-Boutique hotel particuliere…in a chateau, appealing to discerning customers who enjoy a unique and discrete holiday experience in premium surroundings. Located in the famous 15th century “Chateau de Sauvin” bordering the Canal du Lateral, nearby the Garonne river and medieval town of Meilhan, the Chez Kelly concept is a mix of classic French and contemporary Scandinavian design.

Unlike other B+B offerings, hosts Brendan and Keld encourage guests to relax around the pool, play tennis, boules or billiards in the lounges, terraces and parklands enjoying “hotel like” daytime residency, without the maddening crowd. This is typified by the “New Zealand” friendly, casual style coupled with “Danish” reserve and respect for the privacy of our guests, making Chez Kelly your “home” for a holiday experience. The accommodation looks very stylish – a long way from the normal rustic French tradition. They clearly offer a different approach including “table d’hote” dining with style.

Being in the centre of some serious wine-making regions they are also offering an opportunity to get really involved with the wine harvest in September/October – so