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The winemakers of the Coteaux du Quercy VDQS celebrate their annual wine fair at Montprezat-du-Quercy (82 Tarn-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) on 8 August 2008.

Located between Montauban and Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees), these red and rose wines are unusually (for the south of France) based on Cabernet Franc (40–60% of the blend) with Malbec, Tannat, and Gamay being the other allowed varieties.

The name “Quercy” comes from the latin “quercus” for oak – and was the name given to a large area of South West France until the current departement system was introduced in 1790. The Coteaux du Quercy area was known as “Bas Quercy” and is dominated by the high “Causses” or moorland which still has a lot of “scrub oaks”.

The South West of France has strong connections with its Spanish neighbours on the other side of the Pyrenees.

These links were strengthened during the Spanish Civil War when many refugees sought sanctuary in the region and were welcomed. The traditions of bull-fighting, music and dance were keenly integrated in different areas. The Basque country traditions naturally span the border on the Atlantic side, but also Catalan and other influences have spread to the east.

Mont-de-Marsan (40 Landes, Aquitaine) holds its Arte Flamenco Festival from 7–12 July 2008.

Cahors with its Malbec (or Cot or Auxerrois) based wines remains one of my personal favourites – and these wines seem to improve year on year. This may be due to competition from South America, especially Argentina, where more overtly fruity and accessible Malbec wines are produced. However for me they lack the depth and intensity which good Cahors can offer. It’s also worth remembering that much of the Cahors vineyard is effectively less than 50 years old – the whole area was devastated by severe frost in 1956 which killed off most of the vines. Much changes in a vineyard in 50 years – vines mature, techniques improve, the best locations are revealed – and as exports increase winemakes have an incentive to strive to produce ever better wines.

You can try for yourself at the Fete du Vin de Cahors (Cahors Wine Festival) to be held at Puy l’Eveque (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) on 9 August 2008 – about 20 miles west of Cahors town on the river Lot. This opens in the Salle des Fetes at 5pm (i.e. after the worst of the heat of the day) and offers visitors the chance to taste the wines of local independent winemakers, but a few bottles (or more) all accompanied by music and a banquet!

The Vignerons Independants (independent wine makers) of the Vins de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne hold their annual wine festival in the town of Eauze (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) on 26 July 2008. More than 50 winemakers will be offering tastings. The Cotes de Gascogne is best known for making light fruity whites wines (90% of the production), typically from Colombard or Ugni Blanc grapes, but there are also some good Sauvignon Blancs and Gros Manseng.

However, many winemakers will also produce Armagnac and Floc de Gascogne which are also based on Colombard and Ugni Blanc grapes. Floc de Gascogne is a blend of unfermented grape juice and Armagnac which served chilled is a refreshing aperitif, available in white and rose styles.

The elegant city of Montauban gets its streets filled with Jazz for its 5 week long Fesitval de Jazz from 3 July to 9 August 2008 – and there will be other attractions such as the opportunity to taste the wines of the Cotes de Brulhois AC which come from just south of Agen (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) and are red wines based on Tannat, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet and Fer Servadou grapes – a potentially rustic blend which can produce some seriously good reds.

Running almost concurrently you can indulge in a feast of summer music with the Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) Blues Festival running from 15–19 July 2008. Amongst the attractions is Rolling Stone Bill Wyman (well musically perhaps)and a free “cocktail” jazz session. Be advised that the term “Blues” here encompasses jazz, rock, gospel and swing – so there should be something for every taste!

Meanwhile just 40 or so miles to the north, still in the Lot departement, but actually on the Dordogne river, the Souillac Jazz Festival runs 14–20 July 2008 – both with some events held in the surrounding villages.

For more info see www.cahorsbluesfestival.com or www.souillacenjazz.net or www.tourisme-gramat.com

Tags: music

From 1 July 2008 you will need to carry both a warning triangle and a hi-viz jacket in your car in France – and in the event of a breakdown or accident you must also switch on your hazard warning flashers.

The warning triangle must be placed 30 metres back from the vehicle in the direction from which traffic is approaching.

Personally I have my doubts about the triangle, but the hi-viz vest is a useful small and light safety precaution which should ensure that you are seen in the dark or poor visibility.

(Both items can be purchased in the UK from www.raymac.co.uk)

In other French road news, there are plans to change the style of French number plates from 2009, losing the last 2 numbers which indicate the departement of origin. This the cause of some protest in the French regions, and will be a blow to many British parents who will no longer be able to divert their child passengers on long journeys with the game of “where does that car come from?”

We have arranged with RAYMAC a special offer of a WARNING TRIANGLE + A HI-VISIBILITY VEST FOR JUST £9.99 PLUS VAT AND DELIVERY (usual price for the Warning Triangle alone is over £10) - CLICK HERE FOR THIS SPECIAL OFFER

UPDATE: Thanks to Albert, we have been able to clarify that the requirement for a warning triangle and hi-viz vest does not apply to motorcycles - and whilst stowing and carrying a warning triangle could be difficult for a motorcycle, a high viz vest might be a good idea - very lightweight and taking up little room, a vest would give you great visibility if you were to break down at night.

For more info (in French) see www2.securiteroutiere.gouv.fr/

Duck, Goose, Foie Gras, Cassoulet, Madiran, Armagnac and all the other good rich produce of the land feature in Martin Calder’s book A Summer in Gascony: Discovering the Other South of France which offers a good summer read if you are interested in absorbing a bit of “la France profonde”.
This is the story of a student summer working in Gascony a few years ago, based at the isolated Auberge in Peguilhan (31 Haut-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees)in the Comminges area of Gascony. Staying several months on a working farm and auberge gives a different and well-informed and affectionate view of the land, its people and traditions. I suspect many of us head south to try to capture just a glimpse of the essence of a place where people and nature seem to have found a natural harmony, enriched by the bounteous harvest of its farmers and winemakers. In between the story of the summer’s work and play Martin Calder offers you a wealth of snippets of information, whether it be about the wine (and Armagnac), the history (and the links between the Gascons and the British), the fiercely independent Gascon character (decidedly not French!), the Gascon beret and tradtional cooking. It is perhaps the sense of being distant from the pressures of modern city life which pervades the region - the rhythms of the seasons and the weather. I suspect that much has changed at the auberge since his days at Peguilhan (as suggested in his epilogue), but Gascony still has many quiet hidden corners; the people remain as down-to-earth and welcoming, the food, wine and Armagnac as good as ever.
A Summer in Gascony: Discovering the Other South of France

 The Fête des Vins (wine festival) takes place in the Place de la Republique in Perpignan (66 Pyrenees-Orientales) on 27 June 2008, where more than 50 local winegrowers from the Rousillon region will present their wines. The wines include Cotes du Roussillon AC, Maury AC, Banyuls, Fitou AC and Muscat de Rivesaltes and Collioure AC.

Tours and tastings are also being organised in vineyards from the end of June until the beginning of September, plus a tasting over the same period in the Palais des Rois de Majorque in Perpignan.

For more information, please contact: apvr@vins-du-roussillon.com or +33 4 68 51 59 99 or see www.vinsduroussillon.com

France has always been a good camping destination - the French themselves enjoy “le camping” and the autoroutes heading south are testament to what seems like a mass exodus of Dutch caravans every summer seeking the warmer climes of the Midi or Provence.
On a recent visit to Domaine Octavie at Oisly (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) we discovered a special scheme for motor-caravab (motorhomes?, RVs?, camping cars) called France Passion. In return for a small annual subscription (about £22) you get a map and guide to thousands of farms and vineyards across France where you can park up for the night free of charge.
You need to be self-contained for water, electric etc, as these locations are not campsites with all the amenities - often just a water tap and a bin for the rubbish.
Limited to just a couple of vans, the scheme offers the chance to stay in idyllic, peaceful surroundings - at Octavie this was amidst the vines!
And being effectively the winemaker or farmer’s guest, it is only polite to offer to taste the produce - be it wine, fruit, vegetables, honey, foie gras, snails, olives, even ostrich!
I have heard the French complain that many northern europeans visit their region only to be too self-contained - bringing their home with them and keeping themselves to themselves - but this scheme offers the chance to meet the French on their own turf and find out something about the life of a farmer or winemaker.
For more info on the scheme see www.france-passion.co.uk

We always enjoy visiting Domaine Octavie, where Madame Isabelle provides a warm welcome - their Touraine Sauvignon AC is always excellent - this part of France is ideal for producing top quality Sauvignon Blanc - the region includes Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Quincy etc.
We were also impressed with the Touraine Gamay AC, which had a remarkable depth of flavour and structure - ideal to accompany a grilled lamb steak (tranche de gigot. Another testament to the changing climate methinks - as Loire valley Gamay could never have reached such a level of intensity 10 years or so ago.
Domaine Octavie, Oisly, 41 Loir-et-Cher

Whilst French autoroutes tend to offer a more enjoyable drive than UK motorways, most are toll roads (peages) and hence the speed and ease of covering long distances in France has to be balanced against the costs. But traffic on autoroutes is lighter (except around the major cities) with rest areas (aires) every 12-20 miles or so. Some are quite basic offering parking, toilets and a telephone, whilst others offer a wide range of garage, food, drink and shopping diversions. The food tends to be mass-produced and a bit pricey (much as in the UK). One impressive “Aire de Service” is on the A16 near Amiens (80 Somme, Picardie) - Aire de la Baie de Somme (see picture), about 100km south of the Channel ferry ports of Calais and a bit less from Boulogne-sur-Mer. Accessible from both north- and south-bound carriageways, this offers a small haven of peace and tranquility with quiet parking and picnic areas away from the heavy good traffic - views over to the coast - and lots of wildlife (marshland, lakes, birds)so you can take a stroll to diffuse the stresses of driving. There is also a big modern shopping and dining area with clean toilets and other facilities. The A16 provides an alternative route from the Channel ferry ports to Paris - less crowded than the A26/A1 route via Arras. The route takes you in to the suburbs of northern Paris and can be a bit congested in rush hours. There are just 3 “aires de service” on the A16:- Aire des Deux Caps between Calais and Boulogne la Baie de Somme north of Abbeville HardivillersSouth of Amiens. The A16 also links to the A28 autoroute to Rouen and Normandie.

The Lot departement (46, Midi-Pyrenees) offers an attractive and varied landscape – sinuous valleys, quiet pretty villages, beautifully stark moorland (the Causses), forests and vineyards. As such it lends itself to photography so well that almost everyone can capture an idyllic view as a souvenir of the region.

But you could take it a stage further and enrol in a digital photography course in the village of Castelfranc, west of Cahors where the river Vert meets the Lot. In July the village celebrates its annual Fete (13 & 14 July 2008) when the village is in festive mood with theatre, music, dancing, a market of local produce etc. Every year there is also an exhibition of professional photographers (which continues throughout the summer).

To coincide with this a series of courses are being held in the village for anyone interested in digital photography under the title Itinerances Photographiques. Over the weekend there are 4 three-hour sessions for beginners – everything from using the camera through to using Photoshop to enhance your images and printing.

During the week (15–19 July 2008) there is a more in-depth course designed to help you perfect your skills, and visiting suitable locations for images and providing constructive critique on your photos of the region, whether it be moorland, vines, markets, local people, local and historical sites – with such a wealth of stunning subject matter within reach you could learn much and enjoy more! The 5–day course is offered on either a residential or non-residential basis.

For more info see www.itinerancesphoto.org or contact Maxime Bessieres

To learn more about the region I can recommend Helen Martin’s Book “Lot – Travels through a limestone landscape in SouthWest France” See also the local tourist office www.tourisme-prayssac.fr

Les Clos Perdus is a small winery founded by an unlikely combination of an Australian dancer and a Wiltshire farmer. Paul Old and Hugo Stewart estabished the vineyard in the village of Peyriac de Mer (34 Herault, Languedoc–Roussillon).

The name Les Clos Perdus (Lost Vineyards) reflects the discovery of select parcels of old vines, scattered throughout the hillsides.

Many of the small vineyards had been disregarded by larger producers because of their isolation, their low cropping potential and their inability to be machine worked.

The selection of grape varieties on particular soils, in differing locations gives the wine the complexities we are looking for.

Our aim is to produce distinctive well balanced wines of the highest quality.

The wines produced are within the Corbieres appellation from various blends of Mourvédre, Carignan and Grenache and sometimes Syrah - big rich wines which retail from £8.00 a bottle upwards. They are clearly getting it right, with their wines featured on the wine lists of restaurants such as Gordon Ramsay at Claridges, Club Gascon and Tate Britain.
Les Clos Perdus will be at the Bristol Wine and Food Fair 11-13 July 2008

Les Clos Perdus.

France has big rivers and great bridges – the spectacular Viaduc de Millau on the A75 autoroute(12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees) and the Pont de Normandie on the A29 autoroute between Le Havre and the Normandie coast (14 Calvados, Normandie) being great recent examples.

Almost simultaneously the birth of 2 other spectacular bridges is being celebrated – the medieval Pont Valentre in Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) celebrates 700 years, whilst the latest Pont Gustave Flaubert (see picture) is due be opened in time for the Rouen Armada (4–5 July 2008).

Rouen’s latest crossing of the River Seine is in the heart of the city and will take the A154 autoroute from the nothwest (Dieppe) through the city to connect with the A13 Autoroute from Normandie to Paris.

Because is is a city centre site, and the Seine carries ocean-going ships (and was a Transatlantic Cruise ship terminal) there is not enough space to build a traditional high span bridge, so this will be the largest vertical lift bridge in the world. When high masted ships need to pass, both dual carriageways will be lifted by cable to allow the ship underneath. For such a massive task the structure seems remarkably elegant – each roadway is 18m wide and 120m long and weighs 1300 tonnes.

When opened in the next few weeks (early July 2008) the notorious congestion in the city centre will be eased considerably.

Meanwhile in Cahors the South West, the fortified medieval Pont Valentre celebrates its 700th anniversary – and this was open to road traffic until only a few years ago, But now the city will pay homage to its most distinctive landmark On 4^th July 2008 there will be a banquet on the bridge itself prepared by some of the best chefs in the region – with music and dancing. From Wednesdays to Saturdays from 17 July 2008 to 9 Augusr 2008 the bridge will be lit up every night from 10.30pm for 2 hours with a sound and light show which promised to be spectacular.

There is a website about the bridge’s 700th anniversary which has been inviting photographers from around the world to show their images of the bridge in all its moods – www.lepontvalentrea700ans.com.

Joanna Simon in the Sunday Times (1 June 2008) helpfully provides an explanation of the appellation rules for the Cotes du Rhone, which produces such a wealth of good wines, but where the nomenclature can confuse rather than illuminate. You can find a cheap basic Cotes du Rhone for well under £5.00 but get something really special for £10 and over - but the label will often not enlighten you. Furthermore the region is split into two - North and South, which are quite different in style - the north (which is home to Hermitage, St Joseph etc) is more dominated by Syrah, whereas the south (the larger and better known region) tends to be more dominated by blends of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault.

So, let us begin with Côtes du Rhône. This is the basic AOC and the largest - a status reflected in low prices. The difference comes when the word Villages is added, as in Côtes du Rhône-Villages. It signifies superior land and stricter production rules, and it shows in the quality.

The next step up is to the 20 communes allowed to append their own name, for example, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret, or Cairanne or Rasteau. These can be great value. Finally, over time, four villages - Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes de Venise and Vinsobres - have been promoted to AOC in their own right, and so have dropped the Côtes du Rhône moniker entirely.

In essence the better wines are made on the higher ground on the sides of the valley, which is where the “villages” and individual appellations are located. Here the soil drains better, there is more breeze to mitigate against the blistering heat which the region can experience.

Amongst our recommendations would be
Any of the wines of E Guigal, real Rhone specialist negociants - e.g. Cotes du Rhone AC from Majestic Wines

Domaine du Vieux Chene where the Bouche family contradict my claim that the best wines come from the sides of the valley - these are superb organic wines from Camaret near Orange (84 Vaucluse, Provence). Justerini & Brooks stock their wines in the UK - try the Cuvée des Capucins (A 90% Grenache 10% Syrah cuvée, really lively red and black forest bery fruits, warm generous and juicy with a lovely bitter sweet touch. Delicious.) £7.55 a bottle

Domaine de Mourchon at Seguret, run by Scot Andrew McKinlay, who has established an awesome reputation for himself in the appellation - try the Tradition 2006 from The Big Red Wine Company - “an enticing freshness with good upfront fruit and great texture and length. Lighter than the 2005 and, as such, more approachable in its youth with lovely sweet cherry fruit (more noticeably red fruit in character when tasted alongside the 2005) and good mouthfeel. A decent tannic structure to give the wine a real lift. Very friendly wine.” £8.95