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Will Lyons has prepared a top 100 wines for the Scotsman - inevitably a personal selection, but nevertheless it includes some surprises amongst the French wine selection - e.g. several Beaujolais wines, which have been rather out of fashion in recent years.

From the fireside in Elgin to the trestle tables of St James’s, over the last 12 months I have swirled my way through the offerings of Britain’s wine trade on your behalf. My selection criteria are twofold: the wine has to be of interest and must always represent value for money. The results, my 100 best wines of the year, are below and include something for every palate.

• 2005 Beaujolais AC, E Loron et Fils ( £5.95) from my favourite old-fashioned wine merchant - Tanners >
• 2004 Côtes du Rhône Villages AC (£4.50) from Waitrose - “Fresh, ripe and very juicy. This is a vibrant, youthful wine bursting with cherry and raspberry flavours. It’s quite flexible - being light enough as a summer drink or an accompaniment to a winter stew”. Waitrose
• Côtes de St Mont VDQS Château de Sabazan ( £12.99) - “Wines from the Madiran region, in the south-west of France, received a thunderbolt of publicity earlier in the year when Professor Roger Corder published research that showed they were quite possibly the healthiest wines on earth. This is a rich, roasted, firm wine with an appealing smoothness that belies its complexity - a class act.” The Wine Society

Touraine Sauvignon AC, Domaine Octavie (£4.66) - a wine which we used to import for Allez Vins! “A little gem from one of the best estates in the Touraine. It has plenty of the gooseberry and mineral fruit that you’d hope to find in decent Sancerre.” Wines of the World (more on Domaine Octavie)

• Saussignac AC Clos d’Yvigne (£21.00) - by Patricia Atkinson (author of The Ripening Sun: One Woman and the Creation of a Vineyard) in Bergerac “A real gem. Full, rich, creamy and packed with honey, peach and apricot flavours.” Andrew Chapman Fine Wines

In deepest Southwest France you could be somewhat startled to discover a cricket match rather than a game of boules being played during the summer. In the sleepy village of Catus (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) a few miles north west of Cahors, the local cricket club (Catus CC) has acquired a new cricket ground with the help of the local Mayor (Maire) who has helped the club get a loan to purchase some municipal land, and who will also open the new pitch.

We are in a tourist area and our little town relies on this summer trade to boost the local economy. The mayor is pro British and for integration so it becomes a win win situation for everyone if he can boast a cricket pitch in the town. I’m sure other communes in France could adopt the same route for the same reasons, which could help the sport to develop.
The Mayor will open our pitch officially next Sunday with a fundraising meal and match. So all in all I’m hopeful we will be going from strength to strength!

In many ways Cricket and Boules (or Petanque) are not so dissimilar - they are very sociable games which benefit from being played on hot, lazy afternoons at a gentle pace.
For more info on French cricket - see www.cricketeurope.net

Now this could be taken to indicate how much the Brits have infiltrated parts of the southwest - but also how well they have integrated. Certainly the Sunday markets at nearby Cazals and at Montcuq are very popular with the English tourists and expats - there’s even stall selling English second-hand books! Certainly the incomers have tended to push up property prices, but equally they do support the local economy - few young French people want to stay in the countryside - few jobs and few opportunities.

The other factor which is impressive is the existence in most French villages of municipal tennis courts, football pitches etc, which are recognised as an important community asset. The village hall, often next to the Mairie, is heavily used for local functions - for although the French enjoy the privacy of their own homes, they do come together for local events and celebrations, sometimes for no obvious reason!

Catus has a number of nearby attractions - the Lac Vert (Green Lake) is an oasis of quiet tranquility (except in mid-summer, when it is a popular day out for the children); at St Medard Catus is one my favourite restaurants - Le Gindreau - a little extravagance, but we enjoyed several memorable and lengthy lunches on the terrace in the middle of the countryside. Le Gindreau was converted into a restaurant from a former school, which was also the case at Les Arques few miles further north) where the La Récréation Restaurant was created.

This was the subject of the book by Michael Sanders From Here, You Can’t See Paris which provides a fascinating perspective on this part of rural France.and the role that food and wine plays in the local way of life.

The restaurant has a good reputation - but somehow I was expecting something less grand - with tables in the courtyard in summer they can seat 130 people! However, we cannot report on the food - due I suspect to the 35 hour week, the restaurant is closed for 2 whole days midweek even in summer!!

Michael Sanders’ two books (the other about winemaker families in Cahors) do offer a great insight into life in the rural southwest - and whilst they may not be racy reading, they are well-written and describe the locals and their way of life with great affection.

Wine competitions come and go, and generally provide little interest except for the producers and those few top wines which get all the glory, justified or not. However, for the lover of French wines there is an indispensible and comprehensive guide published annually which can be really helpful when planning a visit to any of the French wine regions (unfortunately only available in French). The Le Guide Hachette des Vins 2008 has just been published (in French) and I always look for their “coup de coeur” or favourites. This year several wines previously imported by Allez Vins! were awarded this accolade, including my favourite producer - Guy Cuisset at Chateau Grinou in Bergerac. This guide judges wines at blind tastings, and of the 35,000 wines submitted only 10,000 get a mention, and less than 10% of those are awarded the accolade of “coup de Coeur”.
Guy’s Bergerac Blanc Sec AC, Cuvée Tradition 2006 is the wine in question, and what is especially pleasing is that this is his “basic” dry white - a lovely blend of crisp Sauvignon Blanc and fruity Semillon - which we used to retail at under £5.00 a bottle (effectively our house wine) - so this is not a “special” cuvee or a “prestige” small quantity production at an inflated price - just really good quality wine for drinking!! As the citation reads “Quelle persistance! Quelle élégance!”
I think that is a justified tribute to a winemaker who has striven to produce really good wines, which concentrate the fruit characteristics of the grape, and I am really delighted to see this wine celebrated in the guide!
Regrettably since the demise of Allez Vins! in 2005 this wine is no longer stocked in the UK as far as we know - although Corney & Barrow stock a similar cuvée “La Combe de Grinou” and Private Cellar stock some of Grinou’s red wines.

In France you can visit the domaine at Monestier (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - see details

The Guide Hachette may only be in French, but even if you do not speak the language, it contains plenty of information on addresses, opening times etc.

Our list of toll-free autoroutes raised some interesting questions - what was the rationale for making some stretches of autoroute free, whilst others are charged.
It appears that there can be several reasons:-

• where the autoroute acts as a city by-pass allieviating traffic in the already congested city centre - so the A16 from Boulogne to the French Border would be a good example

or

• where the autoroute has effectively replaced the main N road leaving no realistic alternative - eg. large stretches of the A75 Meridienne south from Clermont-Ferrand

or

• where there is an economic reason where it is hoped that the autoroute will generate the local economy in an underdeveloped region - e.g the A77 (Autoroute de l’Arbre (trees)) from Pouilly to Nevers

However, word has it that the other significant factor has been the family connections of the President - both Chirac’s grandparents come from the Correze in the Limousin, which may explain why the A20 autoroute (L’Occitane) is toll free from Vierzon to Brive-la-Gaillarde. Given that the Lot département (46) in the Midi-Pyrenees is one of the poorest economic regions in France, it does seem strange that the toll section only starts south of Brive-la-Gaillarde (down to Montauban and Toulouse).

However, who are we to complain when in recent years the A28, A20 and A75 autoroutes have given us much better, safer and faster access to the south and southwest.

The toll-free element can make some difference to your budget - e.g. Calais-Montpellier using the A71 and A75 from Paris costs €58.50 in tolls, compared to the journey from Calais- Cavaillon (Provence), which is exactly the same distance where the toll charge is €71.00.

Current Fuel prices in France
The other thing you need to factor in to your calculations for a trip to France by car is the cost of fuel and the exchange rate.

Effective fuel prices have risen by about 6p a litre since the Spring caused in part by an increase in French fuel prices and a less favourable exchange rate (tourist rates currently about €1.36=£1 at Sept 07).

Unleaded (sans plomb 95) € 1.3190 = £0.97 per litre
Super unleaded (sans plomb 98 € 1.2690 = £0.93 per litre
Diesel (gazole) € 1.0490 = £0.77 per litre

These are best prices at a Hypermarket - you will pay significantly more at autoroute service areas and many branded petrol stations - the difference can be up to €0.10 per litre or more - or 7p a litre - so it is worth shopping around if you are filling the tank. Many local supermarkets (Intermarche, Champion etc) can often offer good prices - but not always!!

The beautiful and elegant Viaduc de Millau designed by Norman Foster is a breathtaking sight in the middle of an otherwise little-known region of France. The stunning photograph above comes from the Independent and Mercedes magazine Poise - available with the Independent (22 Sep 07) and available as an online ezine.

Michelin has also published a new Green guide (only in French at the moment) on the A75 Autoroute (la Meridienne) which runs down from Clermont Ferrand (63 Puy-de-Dome, Auvergne) to Pezenas (34 Herault, Languedoc) across the Tarn Gorge at Millau (12 Aveyron, Midi-Pyrenees).The whole area is ripe for exploring. So the guide has 12 suggested itineraries including one which focusses on the vineyards of the Languedoc and Auvergne - other attractions include the vulcanic landscapes of the Auverge, thermal spas, Templar castles…….

New Michelin Green Guide - France (in English)

Our love-hate relationship with France often ensures that we Brits enjoy the distress of the French when things do not go well. Admit it - a significant element of the national elation at winning the Olympics for 2012 was that we beat Paris to it!! Our trouble is that in many ways we are so alike - in others so different - vive la difference!!

So a brief trip to France, where the late summer skies were blue, and the sun was shining warmly was particularly welcome after an otherwise disappointing summer on both sides of the Channel. Except of course that as it was after 31 August, the French were all back at work (la rentrée) and winter opening hours of restaurants, chateaux and other attractions were operative.

The week started badly for the French, when they lost the opening match of the Rugby World Cup at the Stade de France in Paris - to a previously underrated Argentinian team. The incredulity of this disaster was summed up by one local who maintained: “That was not supposed to happen!” This could now lead to the French, proudly hosting the world cup, having to play a semi-final in Cardiff!!

The following day spirits appeared to have improved when the French football team secured a 0:0 draw against the Italians - the celebrations and relief suggested it was in fact a great victory. However, just a few days later they lost to the minnows of Scotland which no-one, probably not even the Scots, had predicted.

The week ended with everyone suddenly discovering and being knowledgeable about Judo, where the world championships were won by - a Frenchman called Teddy RIner, a name probably unknown to most French people. However, this week he is a real French hero!

It is difficult to be too smug about the French misfortunes, when we Brits can be only too aware that our glory days on the football and rugby pitch can be just as fleeting and vulnerable to upset - but whatever you do, never mention the 2012 Olympics in France - they were robbed!!

The differences and similarities between out two nations was also reinforced by my reading for the week.
A Year in the Merde by Stephen Clarke was the first choice. It is the amusing and lighthearted story of an Englishman working for a French company in Paris for a year - lots of predictable cariacatures, but told with humour and some affection.
My second read by Stephen Clarke Talk to the Snail seemed to get it wrong - more of a rant about the worst stereotypes of the French written by a francophobe - I could not finish it as it was written without affection.
On a more serious level, but nevertheless readable and entertaining was Rod Kedward’s La Vie En Bleu: France and the French Since 1900 which did much more to help to understand some of the contradictions that go to make the French - their history, pride and traditions.

This is a critical time in the winemaker’s year, and the only time when the vineyards and cellars seem really busy - choosing when to pick is such an important decision - too early and the grapes may not have reached optimum maturity - too late and the weather
Over in Alsace, the harvest at Hugel et fils is due to start on Monday 10 September 2007. Despite a generally poor summer, a good Spring and some decent weather in recent weeks has led to a promising early vintage.
Alsace is known as the “wine merchant’s wine” as they get to taste it and rave about it, but it tends not to sell as well as it should. But get beyond the Germanic names and bottle style, and these can be some of the finest dry white wines in the world, especially Riesling. There is no real entry-level wine to serve as a good introduction, but choose a good producer and you’ll not be disappointed with these elegant, dry and rich wines.

One of the best names in Alsace is Hugel et Fils, and to get winelovers involved with the harvest their website is running a daily diary of this year’s harvest in the form of a blog. This will give readers an opportunity to ask questions and make comments in a very interactive way.

Our 2007 harvest will begin on Monday 10 September and we have just posted our first comments on-line. These will be regularly updated and can be accessed directly at http://blog.hugel.com/en/

Hecules Wine Warehouse in Sandwich, Kent stocks some of the Hugel wines in the UK/

A new record-breaking trip this week as a fully-loaded test run was made using the new but uncompleted Eurostar terminal at London St Pancras and the new line under the East of London to the Channel Tunnel and down to Paris - just 2hours and 4 minutes. (actually it ran from Paris to London, but I assume similar speeds are possible heading south). The current run from Waterloo is two hours and 35 minutes - and scheduled services from St Pancras should be 2 hours 15 minutes city centre to city centre, with similar time improvements to Lille and Brussels.

The new route is due to open on November 14th 2007 with a new station just off the M25 at Ebbsfleet near Dartford opening on 19 November 2007. Eventually there will also be a new International Station at Stratford in East London.

The new service and timings will make rail travel to Paris and much of France a more attractive option - and the move to St Pancras will make life much easier for rail connections from the north and midlands - St Pancras being within 5 minutes walk of both Kings Cross and Euston, and not much further from Marylebone.

Ebbsfleet will also suit car travellers from the North and East in particular.

There is a lot of background and useful information on the Eurostar website.with maps of the route etc.

Cotes de St Mont VDQS and Madiran AC celebrate significant anniversaries in 2007 – 25 years for St Mont and 100 years for Madiran. These anniversaries coincide with the recent interest in the Tannat grape for its health-giving properties. The Plaimont Co-operative has been key to the development of these appellations.

The French Paradox in South-West France is based on a unique combination of terroir, growing practices and grape varieties. In concrete terms:
• a growing process, described in the winegrower’s production specifications set up some 30 years ago - disbudding, leaf plucking, yield control through cluster thinning, health status control, etc. -, which enables the grapes to reach perfect maturity,
• “privileged” grapes: the grapes growing in the Pyrenean area have the advantage of late bud break and flowering. They are thus protected from bad weather in Spring, frost and poor berry set, and enjoy cool nights and sunny days during late Summer, which gives rise to the particular maturity that is specific to the region. Grape harvesting is left until late in September,
• in-depth knowledge of plot soils.

Also associated are traditional winemaking methods:
• beginning of vinification through slow fermentation, which promotes extraction during the non-alcoholic phase (pre-fermentation maceration under controlled temperature),
• traditional vinification with temperature control and long maceration,
• maturation on lees with controlled aeration (such wines require much oxygen).

The current techniques respect and reinforce these principles of traditional winemaking.

Within the framework of his work, Professor Roger Corder has analysed many wines from around the world. The results are to be found in his book The Wine Diet.

Among the wines analysed in this region, the following have been awarded an “excellent standard” rating:
• St-Mont, Château de Sabazan, Château de St-Go, Château du Bascou, Le Faîte.
• The Plaimont producers’ Madiran Plénitude
• Madiran Château de Crouseilles and Château d’Arricau-Bordes from the Crouseilles wine co-operative.

 Dr Roger Corder has a new book coming out in September 2007 – The Red Wine Diet

Plaimont wines in the UK are stocked by (amongst others) the Wine Society – the Chateau de Sabazan Cotes de St Mont VDQS has been a favourite of mine – a good oaked tannat red, but with a touch more fruit than many Madirans “A gorgeous ripe tasting red from Gascony” (£9.50)

Most French autoroutes between major towns and cities are toll motorways, which whilst often offering fast and uncrowded dual-carriageways, can nevertheless add significantly to the cost of a trip through France - e.g over €90 (over £60) on a one-way trip from Calais to Nice (1226km of motorway driving about 760 miles).

However there are significant sections of autoroute which are toll free - most often these are around major towns and Cities (Paris, Bordeaux, Lyon etc).

In the North, the A16 is toll-free from Boulogne (J29) to the Belgian border (J36) via Calais and Dunkerque. The A25 from Dunkerque (J20) to Lille is free, so you can reach Lille from the main Channel ports without paying a toll!. Also all routes from Lille to the Belgian border.
The following autoroutes are toll free (as at September 2007)
A16 (part of the Autoroute des Estuaires (estuaries)) from Boulogne-sur-Mer (J29) to the Belgian border(J36)
A20 (L’Occitane) from Vierzon (J6 junction with A71) to Brive-la-Gaillarde (J53) via Chateauroux, Argenton and Limoges
A25 from Dunkerque (J20 with A16) to Lille
A28 from Abbeville (J1) to Rouen (J14)
A30/A31 (Autoroute de la Vallée de la Fensch) from Thionville (J1) to Toul (J12) via Metz and Nancy
A38 from Dijon (J33) to Pouilly-sur-Auxois (J24 and the junction with the A6)
A63 (Autoroute de la Cote Basque) from Bordeaux to Bellin-Bellet (J20)
A64 (la Pyreneenne) from St Martory (J20) to Muret (J25)
A68 (la Tarnaise) from Monastruc (J3 NE of Toulouse) to Albi (J11) via Gaillac
A75 (la Meridienne) from Clermont-Ferrand (J15) to Pezenas (J59) (except for the Millau Bridge) via Issoire
A77 (Autoroute de l’Arbre (trees)) from Pouilly (J26) to Nevers (J37)
A84 from Caen (J46) to Rennes (J25) via Avranches