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The Independent (25 Aug 07) has a short guide to Toulouse (32 Haut-Garonne) by Simon Calder. By far the largest city in the Midi-Pyrenees it is a mix of ancient and very modern, French and Arab.
For me it is a great departure point for the whole of the South and South West – the Pyrenees, Canal du Midi, the vineyards of Gaillac and Fronton and to the east the splendours of Carcassonne. It has never felt an “intimate” destination like Cahors or St Emilion, but it does have an enviously varied cultural life and works well as a weekend destination.
One highlight for me has to be the Marche des Carmes, which is a real treasure trove of the very best of the produce of the southwest – duck, goose, foie gras, cassoulet……
The Marché des Carmes abounds with local produce: bread, fruit, vegetables and poultry (including vast quantities of foie gras de canard). It opens 8am-5pm daily except Sunday. Locals may suggest you buy crystallised violets from a confectioner; the city’s link to the flower began when Napoleon’s soldiers brought it back from Italy.
The picture above is of the Capitole in the heart of the city – now the home of the Town Hall and the Théâtre National du Capitole, this building is remarkable for its façade with its eight pink marble columns.
The SouthWest of France is predominantly associated with duck and goose, but in the Lot Valley above Cahors the town of Cajarc (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) prides itself as the centre of Saffron production. I tend to associate Saffron with more exotic climes in the Middle East being transported along the Silk Route since early times - but it does also thrive in this corner of France!
Saffron fell out of favour during the French Revolution as being too posh and expensive an ingredient, but Saffron was grown here for generations before. However it is only in recent years that the industry has been revived, with Quercy Saffron being recognised as a high quality product.
Saffron comes from a variety of crocus and its pungent stigmas impart a vibrant yellow hue to any dish, and a delicate flavouring from just a minute quantity (it is said to be the essential ingredient for a proper paella in Spain). It is hugely expensive - about €30 a gram, but then you do not need to use much.
Perhaps inevitably there is a Fete du Saffron every October (20th October in 2007) in Cajarc which includes a chance to visit a saffron field, a market selling saffron and other products which use the spice, including pasta, cheese, biscuits, jams and an aperitif. Local specialties include a Confit of Onions with Saffron, Mussels in Saffron - even a saffton-flavoured peach sorbet!! For more info see www.safran-du-quercy.com
Cajarc’s other claim to fame, other than being the gateway to the upper Lot Valley and Figeac, is as the location for the film of the novel Charlotte Gray
In the southern Cotes du Rhone a series of Jazz concerts at vineyards is now available – sounds an ideal combination of sensual music, verdant surroundings and an opportunity to taste good wines. Furthermore as the autumn approaches the autumnal colours of the vine leaves can produce a wonderful symphony of red and brown hues.
On 1st September 2007 the venue is Domaine Berthet-Rayne at Cairanne (84 Vaucluse, Provence) one of the named Cotes du Rhone Villages. In the UK the Sussex Wine Company stocks this wine “Berthet Rayne’s Cairanne is a rich spicy traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre with much of the fruit coming from very old vines indeed.”
In October the venue is Visan one of the lesser-known village appellations to the north of Cairanne. Great Western Wine stocks Domaine de la Guitrady, Cotes du Rhone Villages Visan AC – “The promising inky black colour is the introduction to a stunning bouquet of black fruits, violets and hickory. Rich and velvet smooth on the palate with complex layers of peppery flavours”
November the venue is back in Cairanne at Domaine Brusset – a domaine which receives high praise from Andrew Jefford’s The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)
For dates see www.frenchduck.co.ukand details of the venues and artists see www.jazzdanslesvignes.com
Nimes (30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon) like many towns and cities on or close to the Mediterranean coast, has a long tradition of bullfighting and many of their festivities are centred around the “corridas”..
Most Brits will find the idea very unappealling, but that is no reason to avoid the whole of these festivals, as they are but one element of the events, and what you will miss is a tremendous festive Mediterranean atmosphere.
19–21 September 2008 are the dates for the Feria des Vendanges (Wine harvest) A Feria is a feast day often associated with bulls in the south of France.
7-12 May 2008 are the dates for the Feria de Pentecote
Anthony Peregrine in the Telegraph (22 Aug 2007) provides an excellent introduction and guide to the city of Nimes and its nearby attractions such as the Pont du Gard.
From the point of view of wine, Nimes lies on the boundary between the Provence, Languedoc and Rhone, which is also reflected in the style of the local wines. But the Costieres de Nimes AC is classified as part of the Rhone appellations. The grape varieties for the red and rosé wines are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault. For the white wines: White Grenache, Marsanne, Roussane as well as Clairette, Bourboulenc, Maccabeo and Rolle.
Well worth a visit would be the Chateau de la Tuilerie just to the south of Nimes where Chantal Comte produces some excellent wines – a good tasting room experience is guaranteed – and they even have their own helicopter landing pad if you are planning to arrive in style!
For more info on Nimes see http://www.ot-nimes.fr/
| May 7, 2008 | to | May 12, 2008 |
| September 19, 2008 | to | September 21, 2008 |
Nimes (30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon) like many towns and cities on or close to the Mediterranean coast, has a long tradition of bullfighting and many of their festivities are centred around the “corridas”..
Most Brits will find the idea very unappealling, but that is no reason to avoid the whole of these festivals, as they are but one element of the events, and what you will miss is a tremendous festive Mediterranean atmosphere.
19–21 September 2008 are the dates for the Feria des Vendanges (Wine harvest) A Feria is a feast day often associated with bulls in the south of France.
7-12 May 2008 are the dates for the Feria de Pentecote
Anthony Peregrine in the Telegraph (22 Aug 2007) provides an excellent introduction and guide to the city of Nimes and its nearby attractions such as the Pont du Gard.
From the point of view of wine, Nimes lies on the boundary between the Provence, Languedoc and Rhone, which is also reflected in the style of the local wines. But the Costieres de Nimes AC is classified as part of the Rhone appellations. The grape varieties for the red and rosé wines are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault. For the white wines: White Grenache, Marsanne, Roussane as well as Clairette, Bourboulenc, Maccabeo and Rolle.
Well worth a visit would be the Chateau de la Tuilerie just to the south of Nimes where Chantal Comte produces some excellent wines – a good tasting room experience is guaranteed – and they even have their own helicopter landing pad if you are planning to arrive in style!
For more info on Nimes see http://www.ot-nimes.fr/
According to statistics issued by the Mutualité Sociale Agricole, around 47,000 grape pickers will work in the Beaujolais vineyards this year - that’s almost the equivalent of the population of Macclesfield and more than the number of people employed in the French Navy.
More than 115 different nationalities will harvest the future 2007 Beaujolais vintage by hand* across the 22,000 ha of vineyards in the region. Although 85% of the pickers are French, the remaining 15% are a truly international group, with workers coming from Turkey, Poland, China, Russia, Albania, Brazil, Kazakhstan and Australia.
47% are under 25, 37% are women, and 90% are lodged and fed by the winegrowers, carrying on a tradition that has been in place for centuries. On average, one grape picker harvests 500kg of grapes per day.
Beaujolais is the only French vineyard (together with Champagne) where hand-picking is the general rule. Beaujolais wines are made from the Gamay grape. Although best known for Beaujolais Nouveau, the region also produces more serious and elegant wines from the various “cru” villages such as Fleurie, Moulin a Vent, Cote de Brouilly.
Recommended producers include Paul Beaudet and Pierre Ferraud.. Nick Dobson stocks a good range of Beaujolais wines in the UK.
For more info on Beaujolais wines see http://www.beaujolais.com
Despite concerrns about the poor weather earlier in the summer, a survey by the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence (the trade body for Provence wines) has forecast a similar harvest potential for 2007 as for previous years, i.e. about 3.5 million hectolitres or 350 million litres!.
The harvest should take place between mid-August and the first week of September. The vegetative cycle appears earlier than normal. Flowering took place without problems over a longer period than usual in most of the areas of the vineyard. Some minor coulure (non-setting of the fruit) has been noticed and a strong Mistral wind damaged some plots in June and July. General parasitic pressure has remained low despite some isolated problems. Mildew and oïdium have been controlled. Overall the state of the vineyard is good.
Provence is probably best known for its Rpsé wines, but you really should try out some excellent and surprisingly full-bodied red and white wines from the Côtes de Provence, Les Baux de Provence, and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. For more info see www.vinsdeprovence.com
Majestic Wine Warehouses have a good offer on Rosé wines at 20% off if you buy 2 or more - e.g. Château Saint Roch-les-Vignes 2006, Rosé de Provence (£4.79 with discount) “A delicious rosé showing soft spice and attractive fruit.” or Château Pigoudet La Chapelle Rosé 2006, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence (£6.39 with discount) “The colour of bright pink petals, the nose boasts red apples and ripe cherries. Fresh and elegant, this aromatic rosé lingers on a beautiful finish. Enjoy with Salad Niçoise. “
If you’re in Provence try any of the wines from Mas Sainte Berthe at Les Baux de Provence.
The grape harvest began early in 2007, on 2 August grapes were harvested in Rombeau, Rivesaltes (Pyrennées Orientales) as reported on Europe1
This is the second time in less than 10 years that such an early harvest has happened in this region, the previous occasion being on 3 August 1999, one day later than this year. A mild spring and a rainy month of May accelerated the maturing process. According to first indications, Muscat 2007 shows an equivalent of 12% alcohol content with a sweet and aromatic nature. Producers have commented that this will allow them to make a fairly fresh white wine this year.
Rivesaltes signature wine is the Muscat de Rivesaltes AC, a Vin Doux Naturel (sweet dessert wine made by stopping the conversion of some of the sugars into alcohol by adding spirit alcohol to stop fermentation), which can be delightfully fragrant and perfumed oozing the grapey taste of the Muscat à Petit Grains grape (literally small grapes). Avoid cheaper versions though, which can be over-syrupy to my taste.
Also be careful not to confuse the Muscat de Rivesaltes AC with Rivesaltes AC which can be quite different. Muscat de Rivesaltes AC can only be made as a sweet white wine from Muscat à Petit Grains and/or Muscat d’Alexandria grapes.
Rovesaltes AC can be made from a wider variety of grapes - hence producing a wider range of styles: Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Maccabeo, Malvoisie,and the two Muscats - producing wines varying in colour from pale yellow to deep gold, and from pale rosé to chocolate or crimson.
One of the best producers is Domaine CAZES, who also produce Côtes de Roussillon and Vin de Pays d’Oc wines - see www.cazes-rivesaltes.com
Winestore.co.uk in Perthshire stock Muscat de Rivesaltes AC from Domaine Cazes.
Individual Wines in Oxford stock a Rivesaltes AC from Domaine Cazes “100% Grenache Blanc sourced from 50 to 55 year old vines that produce a miserly 20hl/ha. Traditional addition of grape spirit at the beginning of fermentation to increase alcohol and maintain natural sugars, then the wine is matured for 22 years in seasoned oak casks. Only 1000 cases made annually.” (£22.90 a bottle)
For more news on Muscat wines and the Muscats du Monde competition see www.spittoon.biz
| September 16, 2007 |
Fougerolles (70 Saone, Rhone-Alpes) is situated at the north of the Haute-Saône, at the foot of the “balloon” of the Vosges southwest of Alsace, reserves for itself the title of Pays de la Cerise – mainly for the production of Kirsch, which is a clear pure brandy made from cherries – not to be confused with Cherry Brandy which is a sweetened, flavoured version of simple grape brandy.
Kirsch is made from pressing the fruit, adding the ground cherry stones and allowing it all to ferment. The stones add a characteristically bitter note to the spirit, and also contain minute quantities of cyanide! The liquid is then heated in a still to distill the alcoholic spirit and then aged for a short time in glass “bonbons” or steel or earthenware vats so that the spirit remains colourless.
Often used as to provide an additional punch to desserts, it can also be taken lightly chilled as a refreshing after-dinner tipple – but preferably in small quantities.
This is one of those lesser-known parts of France – not really on any of the main routes to anywhere, and the proximity of the Vosges mountains limits a speedy transit of the region. But it may well be worth visiting in early July for the annual Fete des Cerises which celebrates the beginning of the harvest – or in September there is an annual fair of Cherry Dougnuts (Foire aux Beignets de Cerises) and Kirsch tastings which sounds like fun. (held on 16 September in 2007)
For more info see http://www.otsi-fougerolles.net
Understanding and appreciating the styles of cuisine in France can enhance the enjoyment of what you are eating (or cooking) – much like wine, where I find a little additional knowledge can helps me be more discriminating in my choices and combinations of dishes and wines.
Doug Stewart at www.france-property-and-information.com offers some insights into some of the nuances behind the rich variety of French Food
Regional influences
Each region of France has ingredients, recipes and style of cooking specific to that region. Although they may be exported to other regions of France (and the world), production is largely local and consumption is highest in the region of origin. For example, in Provence the food typically features olive oil, herbs and tomatoes; these are all locally produced and they feature in a surprising large variety of different recipes.
The evolution of regional cooking styles has been influenced by:
• Local availability. The French, a nation of gourmets, prefer to use local ingredients. Consequently, coastal regions (such as Brittany and Normandy, on the northwest coast of France) will favor sea fish and will use it more often and in more varied ways than inland areas. Likewise, areas where fruit or herbs grow easily, will incorporate these into their local cuisine.
• Neighbouring countries and immigration. Near the borders with other countries, the local cuisine incorporates certain dishes and ingredients of the neighbouring countries. It is not surprising to find Italian dishes near the Italian border. More notably, the French region of Alsace is similar to Germany in its food (sauerkraut is popular) and wine, partly due to it currently bordering on Germany and partly due to it having been part of Germany at various points in its history (the border has moved back and forth with various wars). In parts of the south which have a large North African immigrant population one can enjoy the cuisine which they have imported from their original countries.
• History and economic conditions. The culture, lifestyle and economic conditions over a long period of time have formed the development of local food traditions. The rich meat dishes and cream sauces of Burgundy are not only due to Burgundian excellence in raising cattle, but in large part to the economic prosperity of this region over several centuries. On the other hand, mountain regions excel in firm cheeses, which allow food to be preserved over the long and difficult winters, and can be produced from mountain livestock which historically were the main means of support for many families in economically limited areas.
Of course, throughout France one can find a range of dishes, both in restaurants and at home, which extends well beyond regional specialities. However, at the same time, the regional influences in terms of ingredients and style of cooking is marked. Consequently, for those who move to France, the choice of region will influence the types of food one will find.
Italian Influence
Culinary historians generally associate the development of high cuisine in France (as opposed to the existing rural traditions) with the marriage in 1533 of Catherine De Medicis (a Florentine princess) to Henry duc d’Orleans (who became King Henry II or France). At this point, France was not know for its food or food culture. Catherine brought an entourage of Italian chefs with her to France, who introduced to France a variety of dishes, food preparation and dining practices. Although France and Italy obviously have evolved very different food cultures, both before and since this contribution, much of France’s current food culture can be traced back to this time.Cooking styles
As discussed above, each region of France has its own distinctive traditions in terms of ingredients and preparation. On top of this, there are three general approaches which compete with each other:
• Classical French cuisine (also known in France as cuisine bourgeoise). This includes all the classical French dishes which were at one time regional, but are no longer specifically regional. Food is rich and filling, with many dishes using cream-based sauces.
• Haute cuisine is classical French cuisine taken to its most sophisticated and extreme. Food is elegant, elaborate and generally rich. Meals tend to be heavy, especially due to the use of cream and either large portions or many smaller portions. There is a strong emphasis on presentation (in particular, vegetables tend to be cut with compulsive precision and uniformity). The finest ingredients are used, and the meal is correspondingly expensive.
• Cuisine Nouvelle. This style developed in the 1970s, as a reaction against the classical school of cooking. The food is simpler and lighter. Portions are smaller and less rich; the heavy cream sauces of the classical approach are particularly avoided. Cooking is less elaborate and quicker, with more emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients.
• Cuisine du terroir. This focuses on regional specialities and is somewhat more rustic in nature. Local produce and food traditions are the main focus.
Each of these traditions is strongly represented in France, each having its supporters and specialist restaurants. At the moment, Cuisine Nouvelle is less popular than it was, while Cuisine du terroir has grown in popularity in recent years.
For more on French Food see Doug Stweart’s site at www.france-property-and-information.com/easy-french-food-recipes.htm
