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An article in the weekend press draws a strange contrast between the history and the current state of Languedoc wines. In the Independent (2 June 2007) John LIchfield reminds us of the turbulent and often violent history of the Languedoc wine country starting with the riots in the early years of the 20th Century when the wine business and the workers’ way of life was severely threatened by the devastation of phylloxera. Narbonne, Montpellier and Beziers in particular witnessed rioting and the army militia being brought in to subdue the protestors.
It is tempting to dismiss all this as history, when the region was hugely dependent on wine, and where so much was produced. Every worker throughout France would have a glass of wine with his or her lunch, supper and often breakfast - especially in places where the water supply was suspect. It was cheap, rough and simple.
The 1970s and 1980s were also difficult times for the Languedoc vineyards - the arrival of the new World wines, a growing sophistication in wine drinking even amongst the French, and the threat of bulk imports from Spain and Italy led to a major restructuring of the vineyards - the EU paying many to uproot old, poor quality vineyards and encouraging diversification into other crops, tourism or light industry.
But elements of the rebellious nature remain, and even in recent years the vineyard workers have emptied tankers, set fire to various buildings and officers to highlight their campaign for higher bulk wine prices - i.e. the price for the surplus wine which often gets distilled into spirit alcohol. Along with French farmers, they are used to a significant degree of state support, and can get a bit nasty if they do not get what they want. Even in recent weeks it was deemed too risky for an EU bureacrat to visit the region to discuss their grievances.

And yet, at the same time the Languedoc is now producing wines of great character and good value - the innovation of the Vin de Pays d’Oc has led to a significant increase in the quality of good (and sometimes excellent) country wines, whilst at the middle and top end of the market the region has demonstrated that it can produce absolutely stunning wines in a range of different styles. Every appellation (and sub appellation) now boasts some superb winemakers - transforming previously rustic wines into really fine wines worth a place on any restaurant’s list. Hence the success of merchants such as Pic WInes and Stone, Vine & Sun and producers such as Charles & Ruth SImpson at Domaine Sainte Rose as stocked by Leon Stolarski Fine Wines