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WIne and Gardens - London and Beaune

Categories: Burgundy, Burgundy Beaujolais, France Events, France Visit, Gardens, Loire, Loire Valley Wines, Wine Festivals, Wines of France Updated May 31, 2007

Loire ValleyWines Open Square Gardens weekend in LondonJune sees the conjunction of 2 events which combine the magic of French wine with the joy of summer gardens.

In LONDON, over 160 otherwise private gardens open their doors (or gates) for 2 days on 9th and 10th June 2007 oin the Loire Valley Wines Open Garden Squares weekend.

You will be able to discover many of London’s hidden treasures, ranging from stately set-pieces and formal landscapes through to some of London’s more eccentric and unusual open spaces. Along the way you can sample a range of Loire Valley Wines.

Amongst the many gardens you can even visit those at Holloway and Wandsworth Prisons (ominously the website adds “special conditions apply”!) There is also Islington’s Canonbury Square which was named as the 2006 Loire Valley Wines Legacy Garden. Here the east side of the square received a major makeover including the planting of a small vineyard and rose bed as its centrepiece - reflecting the planting of the vineyards in the Loire Valley.

Beaune Water Garden FestivalOver in France from June 30 to September 2, Beaune, capital of Burgundy hosts its Water Garden Festival - an ideal way of enhancing a visit to a major wine centre, and interesting old town.

For its third edition, the festival Cours Water Gardens takes you along to discover the various districts of Beaune with many various and ludic animations: kitchen gardens of the residents, flowered meadows, transitory gardens designed by schools of landscape designers, visits of course deprived exceptionally open to the public, and a visit of “strange Beaune” through its various monuments and statues which marked out its History, without forgetting the spectacles of street for smallest and largest.

For more info see www.ot-beaune.fr

Cognac and Pineau des Charentes from Deau

Categories: 17 Charente-Maritime, Armagnac and Cognac, Cognac Armagnac, Gardens, fortified wines Updated May 27, 2007

deau cognacPineau des CharentesMaison Deau’s cellars are situated near Gemozac in the Charentes, between the town of Cognac and the sea.
This is a long-established family Cognac house, which until recently sold most of its production to one of the major marques in Cognac, but has now decided that it is proud enough of the quality of its products to sell under its own family name.
The quality outstrips that of the better-known brands at a most competitive price!
The domaine (Domaine de Chaillaud) produces fine Cognacs of various ages, including some very ancient vintages.

Madame et Mademoiselle DeauThe domaine also produces PINEAU DES CHARENTES - a delightful blend of unfermented grape juice and fine Cognac, similar in style to the Floc de Gascogne made with Armagnac in Gascogny.- “This cousin of Cognac is the most delicious drink in the world”THE TIMES - Saturday 26 July 2003
Pineau des Charentes is the result of the subtle blending of fresh grape juice selected at harvest time, and Cognac. It can be enjoyed chilled as an aperitif or as a pleasant accompaniment to melon or foie gras etc

The grapes ripen on the soft slopes of the Saintonge (the area around the town of SAINTES) hillsides. They benefit from the microclimate lent by their proximity to the Gironde estuary (intense luminosity and moderate temperature changes).The soils are hot, either of clay-chalk (as in Champagne) or a lean sand-silica filtering type permitting early growth. This blend of Cognac with unfermented Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grape juice is not dissimilar to a light port - good sweet berry flavours.

Parc Botanique The domaine also has an impressive Botantical Garden which is well worth a visit even if you are not interested in Cognac or Pineau. There is also a small museum and a tour of the cellars available.- see www.deau.com

Address details:-

Deau SVS, Le Chaillaud, 17260 St André-de-Lidon

Tel:05 46 90 08 10
Fax:05 46 90 04 01
E: info@deau.com

See more about Maison Deau on www.frenchduck.com

Vineyard Bed & Breakfast in the Côtes Roannaise

Categories: 42 Loire, Accommodation France, B&B,Chambres d'Hote, Cotes Roannaises, Loire Valley Wines, Pays de la Loire, Rhone-Alpes, Stay on a vineyard, Wines of France Updated

Domaine de Fontenay, VillemontaisIn the upper Loire Valley lies the appellation of the Côtes Roannaise AC - from the region around Roanne (42 Loire, Rhône-Alpes) - although a long way from the area most of us associate with the Loire Valley,
These are wines based on the Gamay grapes - best known as the Beaujolais grape. Here Englishman Simon Hawkins and his wife Isabelle have developed a very successful vineyard - Domaine du Fontenay.
But they also offer Bed and Breakfast (Chambre d’Hote) on the domaine - with 4 non-smoking rooms themed after different grape varieties - Gamay, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir - the rooms offering great views over the vines - and the opportunity to taste some of the vineyard’s wines and learn something about wine-making in France.

For more on the domaine see www.domainedufontenay.com

Markets in Haute Garonne

Categories: 31 Haut-Garonne, FrenchFood, Markets, Midi Pyrenees, Regions Departements, South West France, Wines of France Updated May 26, 2007

Toulouse is the capital of the département of Haute Garonne (31) and of the Midi-Pyrenees region. The area has a rich food heritage - including the Toulouse Sausage! Duck, Goose and pork are the predominant meats, but the area is also good for fruit and vegetables.
The indoor Victor Hugo market in Toulouse (Place Victor Hugo), was where Rick Stein investigated and raved about the Toulouse Sausage of Jean Marie Castet at the stall of Gilles Vidal - open Tuesday - Sunday mornings - a huge selection of other wonderful foods always available.

The following list of markets is accurate to the best of our knowledge - many may only operate in the summer - always check with the local tourist office.
Arbas - Sunday
Aspet - Saturday
Aurignac - Tuesday
Auterive - Friday
Ayguesvives - Wednesday
Bagnères-de-Luchon - Wednesday
Balma - Saturday
Baziège - Saturday
Beauzelle - Wednesday
Bessières - Monday
Blagnac - Saturday
Boulogne-Sur-Gesse - Wednesday
Bruguières - Sunday
Cadours - Wednesday
Calmont - Tuesday
Caraman - Thursday
Carbonne - Thursday
Castelginest - Saturday
Castelmaurou - Thursday
Cazères - Saturday
Gaud - Tuesday
Cintegabelle - Wednesday
Colomiers - Saturday
Cornebarrieu - Sunday
Cugnaux - Saturday
Eaunes - Tuesday
Escalquens - Sunday
Fenouillet - Saturday
Fonsorbes - Saturday
Fridayonton - Thursday
Gratentour - Wednesday
Grenade - Saturday
Labarth-sur-Lèze - Sunday
Lanta - Wednesday
Launac - Friday
Léguevin - Sunday
L’Isle-en-Dodon - Saturday
L’Union - Sunday
Marignac - Friday
Martres-Tolosane - Tuesday
Mazères-Sur-Salat - Friday
Mirepoix-Sur-Tarn - Tuesday
Mondonville - Friday
Montastruc - Sunday
Montesquieu-Volvestre - Saturday
Montgiscard - Sunday
Montréjeau - Monday
Muret - Saturday
Nailloux - Wednesday
Pechbonnieu - Saturday
Pibrac - Monday
Pinsaguel - Sunday
Plaisance-du-Touch - Saturday
Portet-Sur-Garonne - Friday
Ramonville-St-Agne - Saturday
Revel - Saturday
Rieumes - Thursday
Roques-Sur-Garonne - Friday
Roquettes - Wednesday
Seysses - Friday
St-Béat - Friday
St-Cézert - Friday
St-Félix - Wednesday
St-Gaudens - Saturday
St-Geniès-Bellevue - Thursday
St-Jean - Saturday
St-Lys - Tuesday
St-Orens-de-Gameville - Saturday
St-Sulpice-sur-Lèze - Wednesday
Toulouse - Place du Capitol - Tuesday- Saturday (organic)
Toulouse - Victor Hugo - Tuesday - Saturday
Tournefeuille - Sunday
Vacquiers - Sunday
Venerque - Thursday
VilleFranche-de-Lauragais - Friday
Villemur-Sur-Tarn - Sunday
Villeneuve-Tolosane - Sunday

B&B on a canal barge near Lille

Categories: 59 Nord, Accommodation France, B&B,Chambres d'Hote Updated

Peniche Fanrtasia near LillePeniche Fantasia in Wambrechies (59 Nord, Nord Pas de Calais) on the outskirts of Lille (see map)

This one offers wood-panelled rooms and air conditioning, and is moored in the centre of the town for easy access by bus into the heart of Lille in about 30 minutes.

The owners.Lucie and Julien, are enthusiastic about the canals and the history and culture of this corner of northern France, and apart from offering a unique opportunity to experience a special night on board the “peniche” will also share with you their knowledge and recommendations of the area.

For more info see www.peniche-fantasia.fr
Peniche Fantasia Au Port de Plaisance, 59118 Wambrechies

T: 06 82 27 92 61

B&B on a canal barge near Toulouse

Categories: 31 Haut-Garonne, Accommodation France, B&B,Chambres d'Hote, Midi Pyrenees, Regions Departements Updated

On the Canal du Midi there is a “peniche” (barge) offering B&B (or Chambres d’Hote). Peniche Soleiado is moored on the Canal at Ramonville-Saint-Agne - shaded by plane trees, breakfast (and supper) on deck and en-suite bedrooms.Situated just south of Toulouse (31 Haute Garonne, Midi-Pyrennes) this could be a novel place to stay - even the address sounds interestiing - Bridge of Eat Apples? (see map)
Peniche Soleiado, Pont-de-Mange Pomme. 31250 Ramonville-Saint-Agne T:06 86 27 83 19

B&B Chambre d’Hote in France on a boat?

Categories: B&B,Chambres d'Hote, Books Guides Images, France Travel, Midi Languedoc Roussillon, Paris North East Updated

Canal Barge Soleiado on the Canal du Midi. The French canal system differs from the British network, as they are wider - hence they do not need to use narrowboats. Wider boats enable the French to offer “hotel” boats which can accommodate up to 12 people in relatively spacious comfort and can cruise up and down the tranquil canals offering a different view of parts of la Belle France.
Down on the Canal du Midi there is a “peniche” (barge) offering B&B (or Chambres d’Hote). Peniche Soleiado is moored on the Canal at Ramonville-Saint-Agne - shaded by plane trees, breakfast (and supper) on deck and en-suite bedrooms.Situated just south of Toulouse (31 Haute Garonne, Midi-Pyrennes) this could be a novel place to stay - even the address sounds interestiing - Bridge of Eat Apples? (see map)
Peniche Soleiado, Pont-de-Mange Pomme. 31250 Ramonville-Saint-Agne T:06 86 27 83 19
Canal Barge Fantasia near LIlle
Nearer to home, there is another Peniche - Fantasia in Wambrechies (59 Nord, Nord Pas de Calais) on the outskirts of Lille(see map) This one offers wood-panelled rooms and air conditioning, and is moored in the centre of the town for easy access by bus into the heart of Lille in about 30 minutes.
Peniche Fantasia Au Port de Plaisance, 59118 Wambrechies 0 T: 06 82 27 92 61

For more info on French canals see www.vnf.fr (Voies Navigable s de France)


RECOMMENDED READING:-

Meursault appellations

Categories: 21 Côte d'Or, Burgundy, Burgundy wine, Grape Varieties, Meursault Updated May 24, 2007

The appellation system in Burgundy get confusing – whereas elsewhere in France an appellation usually covers quite a wide geographical area, in Burgundy an individual plot of land can be classified as a separate appellation. So for example in Meursault, one of the best white wine areas (Chardonnay) with some pretty good Pinot Noir reds, the following are the individual appellations:-

La Barre et le Clos de la Barre.
Les Casse-Tête.
Les Charrons.
Les Chevalières.
Les Clous.
Les Corbins.
Les Criots.
Le Cromin.
Le Limosin.
Les Luchets.
Les Marcausses.
Le Meix-Chavaux.
Les Millerands.
La Monatine.
Le Murger-de-Monthelie.
Les Narvaux.
Les Pellans.
Les Pelles.
Le Pré-de- Manche.
Les Rougeots.
Les Terres-Blanches.
Les Tessons.
Les Tillets.
La Velle.
Les Vireuils.

For more info see http://www.ot-meursault.fr/meursault/fr/lemeursault.htm

Vic’s Feria de Pentecote : 26, 27, 28 May 2007

Categories: France Events, South West France, South West France wines, Wines of France Updated

vicferia06.jpgDown in the Gers (32, Midi-Pyrenees) Vic-Fezensac holds its Pentecost (Whitsun) Festival - a Feria. The term comes from the latin for a “free day”, but is also associated in the Basque country (and other parts of southern France) with a version of a Bull-running/fighting festival. But don’t let that put you off - there is a real festival atmosphere with music and dancing throughout the 4 days.

Just about 25 minutes away is Nick & Karen Carpenter’s Domaine de Lauroux where this English couple are rapidly establishing a name for themselves and their Côtes de Gascogne wines, Floc de Gascogne and Armagnac. The Kitcheners have recently been quoted in the Telegraph (18 May 2007) as an example of Brits who have tackled the challenge of setting up a vvineyard in France! Great for visitors, as you can ask the questions about winemaking that you may be reticent to ask a Frenchman - and they have B&B and gite accommodation on the vineyard too!

FOR MORE INFO see www.vic-fezensac.com sponsored by Plaimont wines (www.plaimont.com), a large, successful co-operative producing excellent wines from the Côtes de St Mont VDQS, Madiran AC and sweet Pacherenc du Vic Bilh AC.

Carrot Festival - Créances, Normandy

Categories: 50 Manche, France Events, Normandy Updated May 22, 2007
August 9, 2008

carrots.jpgI should not be surprised, but the French do seem to have a propensity to celebrate almost anything that is food-related, and claim that it is only their village that can claim to produce the best examples in France, if not the world.
Hence, the humble carrot gets its day of glory at Créances on the Cherbourg peninsula (50 Manche, Normandie).

Thanks to the persistence of its members, the quality “Label Rouge” mark was awarded in 1962 to carrots grown in Créance’s sandy soil and since 1990 the town has organised a special festival dedicated to its “queen of vegetables”, held every second Saturday in August.

The programme includes a parade of carrot growers, the “Mougeous d’Carottes”, a cooking competition, a fair open to everyone and musical entertainment. Every year about 25,000 visitors come to join in the fun.

Créance’s market garden area produces approximately 35,000 tons of “carottes des sables” and 10,000 tons of leeks every year.
Further details from the Syndicat d’Initiative de Créances (in high season)

Tél/fax : 02 33 45 05 71
Contact : Créances Town Hall : 02 33 46 30 18

Presidential Residences

Categories: Rhone wines Updated May 21, 2007

Chateau de RambouilletNo. 10 Downing Street is by any measure a rather modest and functional residence for our Head of Government, compared to say the White House in Washington or the Elysee Palace in France. Of course the inhabitants of those palaces are also Head of State. But it must be a trifle frustrating to see the splendour of the accommodation available to the new French President, Nicolas Sarkozy.
First the Elysee Palace in the centre of Paris is very much a palace, somewhere you wpuld be proud to welcome foreign dignatories. But Monsieur le President, also has at his disposal another Chateau at Rambouillet on the outskirts of Paris (see photo) - just a tad more grand than Chequers, which is only a country house.
However, the French do not stop there - Hotel de Marigny is another fine house in Paris - and then there is the Domaine de Souzy-la-Briche a little further outside Paris near Dourdan (91, Essone, Ile de France)- but this is “just a private residence for the President”.
But to top it all there is a little islet on the Côte d’Azur - the Fort de Bregancon, near Bormes-les-Mimosas, in case you get bored with the splendour of the other residences.
Fort de Bregancon - see map. President Sarkozy has just spent his first Presidential weekend at Bregancon.
Unfortunately none of these buildings seem to open to the public - although there is a video tour of the Elysee Palace on the French Presidency website

Pagnol country - Aubagne

Categories: 13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Books Guides Images, Provence (PACA), Regions Departements, Rhone wines, Wines of France Updated May 20, 2007

Manon des Sources DVD PagnolFilm 4 is showing Marcel Pagnol’s Manon Des Sources [1986]this week (Wednesday 23 May 07 - 6.50pm BST) - part of a series of atmospheric films drenched in Provencal landscape and dialect. Fortunately there are subtitles! This is a sequel to the film “Jean de Florette”

For a time this was the most successful foreign film in British box-office history, and deservedly so. It’s a continuation of Jean de Florette, which told how a hunchback from Paris tried to establish himself as a farmer in rural Provence, only to have his water supply blocked off by a conniving neighbour (Montand) who wanted to take his land.

See full review of Manon Des Sources from Channel 4 Film.

Two other films in the series are Le Chateau de Ma Mère (my mother’s chateau) and La Gloire de Mon Père (my father’s glory) - all set in the Provencal hills above Aubagne (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) between Marseille and Aix-en-Provence. (see map)walks in Pagnol countryAubagne is proud to be the birthplace of Pagnol and whilst it cashes in somewhat with a “miniature world of Marcel Pagnol” with hundreds of Provencal figurines based on his characters, the house where he was born is now a museum to the great man.
However, what to my mind is better (if you are fit enough) is to take one of the signposted walks which take you up in to the hills (the Massif du Garbalan) where Manon and Jean de Florette were based and filmed. Here you can capture the essence of deepest Provence, both beautiful and stark, abundant with herbs and awesome views over the “garrigue”

The local tourist office in Aubagne has details of these walks, and there are some guided tours available with a coach to take you up the hills. Alternatively there are “threatrical excursions” which involve a local theatre company’s actors recreating scenes from the films in the original locations. But be warned, some serious uphill walking is required and it can be seriously hot in mid-summer. Best to make an early start to avoid the heat of the afternoon. There can also be some restrictions in the height of summer to minimise the risk of moorland fires - again check with the Tourist Office.

LINKS:-
Aubagne Tourist Office and Pagnol walks

Manon Des Sources [1986]

Stay on a vineyard - Coteaux du Languedoc la Clape

Categories: 11 Aude, Accommodation France, Coteaux du Languedoc, Gites/Villas, Languedoc Roussillon wines, Languedoc-Roussillon, Maps France, Stay on a vineyard, Wines of France Updated May 16, 2007

Gites at Chateau RicardelleChateau Ricardelle produces an excellent range of Coteaux du Languedoc AC la Clape and Vins de Pays d’Oc wines and has some rather classy self-catering accomodation on the vineyard at la Clape between Narbonne (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) and the Mediterranean coast.

see map

To come in Sospel!

Categories: France Travel, France Visit, Regions Departements, Rhone wines Updated May 15, 2007

Sospel in the Alpes MaritimesWhilst researching the Alpes-Maritimes Département in Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, I landed on the website of the beautiful medieval village of Sospel close to the Italian border on the high hills back from the French Riviera. This is a great place for hang-gliding (so I am told), on the old “route du Sel” (salt route) from Nice to Turin - and with a good market on Thursdays and Sundays (cheese, honey, vegetables, cake, spices…).
BUT, to find out more I tried the local tourist office website , where the original French version of the site has been totally mangled by some translating machine which produces the following example of gobbledegook:

Located at 15 minutes of Chin and 30 minutes only of Nice, Sospel has a site of coasting flight very appreciated with 1000 meters of altitude.
Easy and pleasant for a flight of the morning in school, 750 meters lower, a vast grassy ground, allows the beginners as with the pilots experienced to improve their landing.
The same site becomes during the morning a starting point interesting for the avid pilots of distances. Directed Southern South-west, this site with broad generous thermics will propel you easily worms of pretty ceilings.
All the year, come to discover the joys of the coasting flight! “

Other sections include “To come in Sospel”, “To be restored” and “Reserve your Leisures” and the “MIddle Ages” or (”Moyen Age” in French) comes out as Average Age! - and “Our Producers will open the doors of their exploitation to you and will make you with pleasure discover the fruit of their work with nature. Contact them!!”
I get used to the ocassional inappropriate translations - usually due to a failure of a dictionary to identify the nuances of definition in English, but this has to be worth a prize for total garbage, My own grasp of French is reasonable rather than expert, but I will always decline the english version of a restaurant menu, as at least with the original French version I do know where my limitations are. The classic for misinterpretation (due to both languages seeking to find euphemisms for some dubious bits of offal) is “Sweetbreads” in English and “Ris de Veau” in French - both are often literally translated and could provide a severe shock to the diner when his/her “Veal Rice” turns out to be an ill-defined dish of a calf’s pancreas.!
John Scallan at www.bandb-burgundy.com/ has set up a business translating French websites for English-speaking audiences, as too many website owners rely on pigeon-English and a dictionary.
But back to Sospel - my suggestion would be to avoid the English-language version of the site - and struggle with the original French version - believe me it is easier to understand even if you only have very basic French - see www.sospel-tourisme.com/
Better still see Linda Cookson’s article in the Independent (5 May 2007) which in impeccable and entertaining English describes a trek through the region around Sospel.

A lot of Gardens in the Lot

Categories: France Visit, Gardens, South West France, South West France wines, Wines of France Updated May 14, 2007

Cahors secret gardenWine from Cahors the first thing I tend to associate with the Lot département in South West France (Midi-Pyrenees), but is has so much more to offer and discover. For example there are numerous interesting gardens - and whilst they may lack the grandeur of gardens further north, they are arguably more interesting and diverse. For example:-
Medieval Garden (Jardin Médiéval) at Cardaillac north of Figeac
Garden of the Senses at Castelfranc in the rue des Jardiniers (Gardeners Road) - between Puy l’Eveque and Cahors on the northern bank of the Lot River - formerly an allotment now transformed into a peaceful haven of colour and scents
Gardens of Chateau de la Treyne (Labyrinthe des Roses) at the Chateau de Saint-Dau in Figeac - over a 1000 climbing roses (50 varietals) constructed by an Australian to create a sort of rose maze
The Secret Gardens (Jardins Secret) in Cahors (see www.mairie-cahors.fr) a series of themed >gardens and displays throughout the town.
There is a more formal Chateau garden at Chateau de la Treyne at Lacave, north east of Gourdon - which is also a rather grand hotel see www.chateaudelatreyne.com, whilst at Gramat the Grand Couvent (convent) offers “a haven of relaxation ..ideal for contemplation and reflection.. a garden of colours, aromatic herbs and medicinal plants”

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