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There were just 7 wines on our first ALLEZ VINS! wine list in 1987, one of which was Cahors AC Chateau St Didier-Parnac 1985. So it was a surprise that some old friends of ours had discovered one of those very bottles in their cellar but also with some trepidation that I opened it. The label looked suitably aged, but to be fair to my friends they are not great wine buffs, and there was little likelihood that the bottle had been kept in the best of conditions for 20 years. The cork was inevitably a tad aged but did at least come out in one piece (very slowly) and the nose, whilst not powerful, was at least not pungent. The colour was surprisingly red rather than brown (a good sign) and careful decanting avoided the worst of the sediment.
The wine was perfectly drinkable, but somehow like visiting an ageing relative you’ve not seen for 20 years, it was a bit frail and lacking in some rounded robustness. The fruit character remained but the complexity and depth of the tannins was missing.
Now I have always claimed that Cahors wines improve with some ageing - but in truth it is not often that I get the chance to try something like this at that sort of age. Especially as this is not the Chateau’s top cuvée (which at the time was the Prieuré de Cenac) although 1985 was a good year. So although I would not recommend keeping such a wine for 20 or more years, it does give some confidence to the recommendation that well-made Cahors should be good for 10-15 years from a decent vintage. Always check with your wine merchant or the chateau.
The other wines on our early list were a Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Quercy (now a VDQS from the area between Cahors and Montauban); a couple of Alsace wines from Emile Boeckel at Mittelbergheim and some Beaujolais from Paul Beaudet. Quite fascinating that the Languedoc did not feature for some years, whereas I would expect it to be amongst the early choices if we were to start again!
As for Chateau St Didier-Parnac, this was really where Allez Vins! started - as wines such as Cahors, Cotes de Duras, Coteaux du Quercy etc were seldom seen in the UK in the 1980s. The Rigal brothers owned this and other domaines in some of the best parts of the vineyard at Parnac, in the Lot Valley west of Cahors.
Since the 1970s, Franck and Jacques RIGAL have been building up the family business by concentrating on the 135 hectares (310 acres) of their three great châteaux: Prieuré de Cénac, Saint Didier Parnac and Grézels
.
Their blend of 70% Malbec (also known locally as Auxerrois or Cot) and 30% Merlot with some barrel ageing produces a wine which retains it typicity whilst being quite approachable.
Now part of the huge JeanJean group since 2003, they remain one of the best Cahors producers.
In the UK Chateau St Didier-Parnac, Cahors AC (2003) is stocked by AVA wines in Northern Ireland (interesting, well-chosen list) and Whitebridge Wines (2001 vintage) in Staffordshire.
LINKS:-
Chateau Saint Didie-Parnac
RECOMMENDED READING:-
Paul Strang’s Wines of South-west France
Stephanie Alexander’s Cooking and Travelling in South-West France
Andrew Jefford’s The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)
| May 16, 2007 | to | May 20, 2007 |
Avignon’s Palais des Papes hosts a four-day exhibition dedicated to the rose from 16-20 May 2007. Subtitled “the roses you have never seen”, thee show launches thirty new species of rose each year and there are conferences and exhibitions around the theme of the much-loved bloom. In the heart of Provence, Avignon (84 Vaucluse, Provence) is a vibrant historic city around the Pope’s Palace (Palais des Papes).
The event is held in the magnificent surroundings of the Cloister of Benoit XII in the Palais des Papes, which stands as the mighty symbol of the church?s influence throughout the western Christian world in the 14th century. It is the biggest Gothic palace in all of Europe - see www.palais-des-papes.com
Note that this is a bank holiday weekend in France, as Ascension Day falls on Thursday 17 May 07.
A few miles north is Chateauneuf-du-Pape (literally the new palace of the Pope) which tended to be the summer home of the Pope and is of course rightly famous for its wonderful, rich red wines.
Links:
www.alterarosa.com
Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine site
Vaucluse Tourist office
The village of Rocamadour (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) , about 35 miles north of Cahors and the Lot Valley, is well worth a visit at any time - a medieval village perched high on the hillside of a small valley, strung out on the face of a sheer cliff - historically a place of pilgrimage (and on one of the Pilgrim routes to St Jean-de-Compostela). Nowadays it is a major tourist attraction, which unfortunately can get hideously busy in the height of the summer.
However on 27 May 2007 Rocamadour hosts its Cheese Festival (Fete des Fromages), which includes a Cheesefarmers’ Market, competitions,demonstrations, music and other jollities. Over 40 artisan cheese makers will be there from “le Grand Sud” (the southern half of France) with pride of place being given to Beaufort and Reblochon cheeses from Savoie and the Alps.
Beaufort. is a large round semi-hard cheese made with the milk of the mahogany-coloured Beaufort cows, whereas Reblochon is a softer cheese made from the thicker, richer milk from the second milking of alpine cows.
Rocamadour has its own AOC cheese - Cabécou de Rocamadour , a 100% goat’s cheese, made with whole raw milk.
Since obtaining the AOC, the production of this famous little round cheese has been strictly regulated: no more than ten goats to the hectare, cheeses matured in the proper conditions in the place where they are produced, and above all, no chemicals added to the curds.
Product of a long-established tradition amongst the goat-herds of the Quercy Causses, Rocamadour cheese can be eaten young and fresh, older and drier, creamy, warm with salad or on a slice of walnut bread. Dry, with a touch of sharpness and acidity, this cheese goes perfectly with a Cahors wine.
LINKS
Rocamadour, Gramat & Padirac Tourist Office
about Rocamadour Cheese
RECOMMENDED READING
Public Holiday in Alsace (not the rest of France which only treats 25th as a holiday)
Deuxième jour de Noël (Alsace)
| November 11, 2008 |
Public Holiday in France - Armistice Day (Armistice 1918)
With their usual flair for artistic extravagance, the French are launching a massive summer art exhibition along the 25 miles of the banks of the Loire estuary between Nantes and St Nazaire this summer.
Although we tend to think of Nantes being at the mouth of the Loire (the longest river in France), there is another 40km until St Nazaire where the last bridge crosses the river before it enters the Atlantic.
From June to 1 September 2007 (and again in 2009 and 2011) the Loire Estuary Project 2007 will link St Nazaire and Nantes with a series of 40 art installations along the river bank (some even in the water) including a massive duck (25 metres high) experimental architecture, dramatic water features and a floating house, all of which can be viewed free of charge - or take to the river for a 3-hour boat cruise with audio tour.
Visit the website (below) for a good video of the stretch of river between these two locations.
LINKS
For more info see www.estuaire.info
Nantes Tourism
St Nazaire Tourist Office site for lots of maritime history
RECOMMENDED READING
Brittany Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
Tour 2- Beaumes de Venise, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Cairanne and the Côtes-du-Rhône
After a gentle first day, this second outing is rather longer, but should be worthwhile. For here you will get a taste of essential Southern Rhône wines - and again pass though some great countryside and villages en-route.
An early-ish start is recommended to head east from St Remy on the D99 to Cavaillon - an otherwise unremarkable Provencal town, excepting for its deserved reputation as the centre of melon production!
(If you have time, you could make a small detour before reaching Cavaillon and the A9 autoroute - to another interesting wine and olive domain - Domain de Valdition - take a right (head south) off the D99 about 10km from Saint Remy-de-Provence to Eygalières, and .then left (east) onto the D74 towards Orgon - the domain is a few kilometres along on the left) - here they have some very well-made classy wines (despite being classified as Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône) - in a delightful chateau and tasting room. Unfortunately the website is over-engineered and does not work properly - but otherwise fully recommended - you could always do this as a short side-trip from St Remy if you have an hour to spare some other time)
From Cavaillon you need to find the D31 heading north towards Carpentras - the road network and signposting is not brilliant, so I would suggest going through “Centre Ville” as otherwise you may find yourself heading for Avignon, which is not be advised.
The D31 takes you past L’Isle-sur-Sorgues - a delightful town surrounded by the river Sorgue - and now famous as an antiques centre - excellent Provencal market on Thursday and Sunday mornings, although Sunday now gets very crowded with a major Antiques and Bric-a-Brac market. Worth a visit - but time may not allow on this day’s itinerary.
Continue on the D31 (ignore a right to Carpentras) but keep on through Monteux and Sarrians towards Vacqueyras. The D31 becomes the D21 which you need to follow through to Beaumes-de-Venise. Turn left(north) onto the D7 towards Vacqueyras, and on the outskirts of the village you will find on your left the Co-operative of Beaumes de Venise. It is admittedly not an inspiring sight, but it is a good place to get a sense of these wines, the prices are good and the staff are helpful. Beaumes-de-Venise is best known for its very delightful dessert wine made from Muscat, sometimes in a distinctive bottle shape. However, don’t overlook the fact that Beaumes-de-Venise is one of the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages AC and produces some excellent reds and rosés as well. Opposite the winery you’ll see the Dentelles de Montmirail - the jagged mountains which dominate this part of the Vaucluse as an extension of the Mont Ventoux range. “Beaume” apparently means grotto or cave. The “Venise” part of the name does not refer to Venice, but to the town Venasque (84 Vaucluse, Provence) which was previously the local capital of the area known as the Comtat Venaissin.
Back on the D7 head on to the village of Vacqueyras, and continue beyond the village on the D7 Route de Bollène. You will pass a right hand fork to Gigondas, but continue on the D8 for a few hundred yards where you will find Domaine la Fourmone on your right. This is to my mind one of the best wineries in the area, featuring Côtes du Rhône AC, Vacqueyras AC and Gigondas AC - and a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise AC - Cuvée Souleu. I am not alone - Robert Parker awarded their Gigondas 93/100 in 2007! Madame Combe is very welcoming to wine enthusiasts, and you will be treated to an excellent tasting in their small tasting room. If you like BIG reds, then you must try the Gigondas AC l’Oustau Fauquet - Cuvée Cigaloun has been my favourite - very rich and intense, but probably not to everyone’s taste.
As an added bonus Marie-Therese Combe also has an art gallery and studio on the Domaine with some excellent acrylics.
(One option could be to make this a 2-centre trip, as in Gigondas there is an excellent hotel at Hotel Montmirail (no website) Téléphone : 04 90 65 84 01 Fax : 04 90 65 81 50 E-mail : hotel-montmirail@wanadoo.fr )
From Domaine la Fourmone I would suggest heading north on the D8 to Cairanne - another Co-operative Wine Cellar just after the main road takes a sharp left turn in the village - Cave de Cairanne is on your right. Again a good selection of good value wines from this Côtes du Rhône Village AC - their Reserve red is silky and smooth.
Beyond Cairanne on the D8 for a couple of kilometres take a left (south) on the D978 towards Orange and then a left after a few miles onto the D41 signposted Camaret. In the village follow signs for Vaison-la-Romaine and as you leave the village watch for a sign to the left for rue Buisseron and Domaine du Vieux Chene.. Here Jean-Claude Bouche produces organic wines on a modest scale - but really excellent wines. We discovered the domaine many years ago when staying in the region, but were unable to import it as he had an exclusivity deal with another UK wine merchant. Jean-Claude and his wife Beatrice are charming and modest people who will give you a warm welcome in a rather sparse tasting room - try the Cuvée La Haie aux Grives (hedge of thrushes) Côtes du Rhône-Villages AC red.
If you are now heading towards late afternoon, then your journey back to St Remy-de-Provence holds a special treat. From Camaret head east back towards Vacqueyras, then south on the D7, Just after the village take a right onto the D52 then D21 to Sarrians, where you rejoin your outward route. Head south on the D31 through Monteux and on to Velleron. Here, just beside the D31 a farmers market (Marché Agricole) is held every evening from 18h00 from April to September (except Sundays and holidays), Predominantly small grower and producers of fruit, vegetables, poultry, olive oil and other goodies sell their produce often from the back of their cars - you will not find fresher unless you go to the farm.
Return south on the D31 to Cavaillon and then west on the D99 to St Remy-de-Provence.
Summary: About 140km (90 miles) travelling distance - about 2½ hours time.
CONTACT DETAILS:-
Domaine de Valdition Route d’Eygalières, 13660 Orgon; T: 04 90 73 08 12 F: 04 90 73 05 95 E:contact@valdition.com
Domaine la Fourmone Roger Combe et Filles, Route de Bollène, 84190 VACQUEYRAS; T: 04 90 65 86 05 F: 04 90 65 87 84
Les Vignerons de Beaumes de Venise Quartier Ravel, 84190 Beaumes-de-Venise T:04 90 12 41 00 - F: 04 90 65 02 05
Cave de Cairanne route de Bollène, 84290 Cairanne; T: 04 90 30 82 05; F:04 90 30 74 03
Domaine du Vieux Chene Jean Claude & Béatrice Bouche, Rue Buisseron
84850 Camaret; T:04 90.37.25.07 F:04 90.37.76.84
A southern Rhone Wine Tour - Introduction
A southern Rhône WIne Tour - Tour 1- Baux-de-Provence
A southern Rhône WIne Tour - Tour 3 Lirac, Tavel and Chateauneuf-du-Pape
For those of us accustomed to driving in France it is easy to forget how strange it seems to be driving on the wrong side of the road! This is especially the case nowadays when the exit from many Cross-Channel ferry ports is straight onto a fast dual carriageway which takes you away from the town - so it can be several hours until you really have to start thinking about navigating things like roundabouts the wrong way round.
The biggest danger is pulling away after a break, like a picnic or a petrol station - especially on quiet roads in the countryside, where the only thing to signal that you are on a foreign road will be that idiot coming towards you on your side of the road, flashing his headlights and gesticulating something about foreigners, which fortunately you cannot understand. I suspect we have all done it. I went one better a few years ago - after a couple of weeks driving around France I drove back (alone) through rural Hampshire, and after a brief stop pulled off onto the wrong side of the road in England!! - very embarassing, but fortunately no damage done except to the nerves of the poor motorist coming the other way! The best thing is to always park or pull-off onto the right-hand side of the road and/or delegate one of your passengers to do a “pre-flight” check at the start of any journey or after a stop!
There is an article in the Telegraph (21 April 07) about the town of Flers (61 Orne, Normandy) where they have put up signs in English reminding drivers to drive on the right! This follows a couple of fatal accidents caused by british motorists, for whom Flers is but an hour or 50 miles south from the ferry terminal at Caen/Ouistreham - and offers a convenient coffee stop after the overnight ferry.
There is plenty for the foreign motorist to be aware of in France - especially the notorious “Priorité à Droite” rules which still apply. especially in towns and rural roads - although fortunately not on autoroutes or other major routes (nor on roundabouts, where the traffic on the roundabout has priority).
The sign at the top of this page is not just a “crossroads” sign as we know it in the UK - it is the sign for a junction (not necessarily a crossroads) where you do not have priority - the vehicle coming from your right has priority!!
On the panel below the two signs on the left indicate that you do have priority - those on the right say you should give priority to traffic coming from the right! If in doubt - be prepared for some sticky moments!
For more on driving in France see www.frenchduck.co.uk
