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Coulommiers (77 Seine-et-Marne, Ile de France) celebrates its annual Cheese and Wine Festival 30 March - 2 April 2007.
Coulommiers cheese comes from the area South East of Paris where Brie, the better-known classic French cheese is also made. Like Brie, it is a soft uncooked, unpressed cows milk cheese which can be made with either pasteurised or unpasteurised (raw) milk - although there are moves afoot within France to ban the use of unpasteurised milk in cheeses. It is matured for between 4 and 8 weeks and is produced in smaller rounds than Brie. It has a rich and creamy body wiith a rather nuttier flavour and a thicker crust. As with all such soft cheeses it is vitally important to eat the cheese at optimum ripeness - too young and it can be rather tastless; leave it too long and the smell and taste of ammonia overwhelms the nose and palate. If in doubt leave the cheese out of the fridge (but in a cool corner) for a few days until the crust is bouncy. Better still buy from a proper cheesemonger who should be able to guide you.
The French do take their local cheeses very seriously - not only do they have a National Cheese Day (24 March in 2007) with events throughout France and elsewhere; but whilst the Brits have novelty Womens Institute calendars, the French produce one with 12 Fromage girls (see above)
LINKS
More info on Coulommiers and its Cheese Festival
More on French Cheeses
More on French National Cheese Day
RECOMMENDED READING:
French Cheese (Eyewitness Companions)
Northern France and Paris Region Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
Gers (32 Midi-Pyrenees) is a land rich in history (Three Musketeers), rolling countryside and home to Armagnac, Madiran, Côtes de St Mont and Côtes de Gascogne wines. It is predominantly quiet and rural with few major towns or through routes. Hence its weekly markets tend to be really good with lots of top quality local produce on sale - and a real atmosphere of deepest France. I can particularly recommend Nogara - where the Saturday market tends to take over the town, and Auch where the range of produce is impressive.
The information here is provided in good faith, but do bear in mind that some markets may not take place every week, and sometimes not at all outside the summer season. Its always best to check with the local tourist office - or with locals.
On 10 June 2007 French Railways opens the latest link in their high speed train network with the TGV Est Europeén which will link Paris with Reims, Strasbourg and points east - i.e. Germany (Munich) and Austria (Vienna) - all by high speed train.
Importantly it brings the travel time between Paris and Reims to just 45 minutes (previously 95 minutes) - so although an east-west route does not appear to be immediately useful for visitors from the UK, these timings make a day trip from Paris to Reims (for its Cathedral and the Champagne houses) more than possible.Or vice versa - a day’s excursion from Reims to Paris could enhance a long weekend in the capital of Champagne.
Similarly Strasbourg comes down from 4 hours to 2 hours 20 minutes from Paris, (and eventually to 1h 50m) providing faster access to the vineyards of Alsace.
Another example of an impressive approach to major infrastructure developments in France - made easier by the fact that France has so much more “elbow room” with twice the land area of the UK - and rather different planning laws.
LINKS:-
For more info see the LGV Est website with videos and information on the construction of the line
TGV Est website with information on train services, tickets, bookings, timetables
Recommended Reading:
Alsace Lorraine Champagne Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
World Encylopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine
As its name suggest Private Cellar tends to major on en-Primeur and vintage Bordeaux and fine Burgundy, Champagne and Cigars. It is therefore quite something that the only French wines they stock outside the traditional “fine” wine regions are those from Guy Cuisset’s Chateau Grinou in Bergerac, South West France. Well-crafted wines with great intensity of fruit flavour, they were a consistent feature of the Allez Vins! wine list, and one of my regrets at no longer importing wine is that I no longer have easy access to these great value wines, nor the opportunity to talk with Guy about his latest innovations.
Their selection of wines from other parts of the world looks to be equally well selected.
Private Cellar was launched in April 2005 by a team of wine trade professionals determined to provide a unique wine buying experience for wine lovers
Private Cellar
51 High Street, Wicken, Ely, Cambridgeshire, CB7 5XR
T: 01353 721 999 F: 01353 724 074 e: orders@privatecellar.co.uk
Website: www.privatecellar.co.uk
Should you be crossing the western channel in mid June, you could stumble across the “Tour de Normandie” an annual French vintage car rally which runs from Wednesday 13 - Sunday 17 June 2007. This promises a cavalcade of classic french cars from vintage to 1970s which will be so evocative of the France of old films - such as Jean-Luc Goddard’s Weekend [1967]
The route starts at Epaignes (27 Eure, Normandie) north of Lisieux to Elbeuf (south of Rouen) via ont l’Eveque (home of Père Magloire Calvados); then south to Evreux, west to Orbec and finishing in l’Aigle (=the Eagle! 61,Orne, Normanide.
More than 100 vehicles are expected which should provide an interesting spectacle in the gently rolling countryside of Normandy, perhaps enhanced by a little of the local produce - cider, Calvados (apple brandy), cream, butter and cheese!
FOR MORE INFO:
Tour de Normanide (in French)
Normandy Tourism
RECOMMENDED READING:
The Rough Guide to Brittany and Normandy - Edition 9
Normandy Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
One of our favourite French wine producers is Guy Cuisset at Chateau Grinou in Bergerac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine), whose range of wines tick all the right boxes - well made, interesting top quality wines at competitive prices.So we were delighted to find another importer of his wines - Private Cellar in Ely in Cambridgeshire.
We worked with Guy Cuisset for more than 10 years and what impressed me was his continuing passion for producing wines of increasingly high quality - always looking to bring more intense fruit characteristics to the wine and looking for ways to better understand the factors which influence the development of the wine - whether it be the drainage in the vineyard. the way in which the grapes reach the winery or the fermentation and maturation process.
It is enthusiasm such as this which has helped to elevate the reputation of Bergerac wines above that of being a poor cousin of neighbouring Bordeaux. Personally I would always choose a decent Bergerac above an equivalent Bordeaux, as I suspect that a lot of Bordeaux is sold on the back of the reputation of the fine claret - and this can be a big mistake, especially when you consider the sheer volume of wine that is labelled as “Bordeaux”. Bergerac by contrast has to fight for its reputation and has recognised that this can only be done by producing wines of consistent high quality.
The Private Cellar list includes Bergerac AC Chateau Grinou Reserve: “Selected from the best parcels of Merlot within Château Grinou, the Rouge Réserve is aged in barrels to give added depth and complexity. The 2004 is deep red in colour, with a fresh, sappy blackcurrant nose leading to a finely balanced palate of soft red berries, subtle oak and ripe tannins. Great finesse.” (£7.95)
KEY LINKS:-
more on Chateau Grinou
Private Cellar
RECOMMENDED READING:-
Dordogne, Bordeaux and the Southwest Coast (Eyewitness Travel Guides)
Patricia Atkinson’s The Ripening Sun: One Woman and the Creation of a Vineyard
Dordogne Berry Limousin Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
The Domaine la Fourmone and its sister vineyard l’Oustau Fauquet produce top quality Vacquyras AC, Gigondas AC and Côtes du Rhône wines -
More info about the domaine
see map Read more on this…
It can be confusing trying to make sense of the medals which winemakers put on their bottles. Sometimes these medals are won in very small localised competitions, and hence mean rather less than those won in national or international competitions. However even with major competitions such as the International Wine Challenge or Decanter’s World Wine Awards, it is difficult to draw any real conclusions - so much depends on what wines are submitted and the criteria for judging them. The local competitions may be a good indicator of wines which are most typical of the appellation, as they are likely to be judged by local wine experts.
However, within France the medals which carry real prestige tend to be those from the Paris and Macon Wine Fairs (Salons).
So it may be worth planning a trip to Macon (71 Saone et Loire, Bourgogne) for their wine fair 20-22 April 2007. For just €5.00 you get a free glass and the opportunity to taste some of the best wines from all over France on any of the 87 stands.
The competition, Concours des Grands Vins de France takes place on 21 April 2007.
Macon is ideally situated for visits to both Beaujolais and southern Burgundy.
LINKS:-
Macon Salon des Vins
Macon Tourist office
Recommended Reading:-
Greater Burgundy: Chablis, Chalonnais, Maconnais and Beaujolais v. 1 (Mitchell Beazley Classic Wine Library)
Wines of Burgundy (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)
Jon Catt is an Englishman living in the Champagne region who offers guided tours in the region - and he offers some tips to get the best out of your wine tour of the region.
“In the big houses if you take the basic tour you get the basic tasting. It’s what one of my clients described as wedding champagne.
Mercier. Take the train and learn nothing! In Mercier once you’re in the cellars you see nothing. The guide’s commentary is never complete because the train is too fast. The tasting room is an equivalent of an airport lounge and a mortuary.
Castellane. They just want to get you through and out. The tasting is in what looks like a large dance hall. There’s little help with the details of the different champagnes.
Moet et Chandon - the best big house visit in Epernay. If you take the basic tour the tasting is in an underground room that’s as damp and warm as a changing room after a football match. Pay a bit more and it’s class.
Pommery. The tour of the former quarries is very impressive. If you take the basic tour you do the tasting in the large impersonal welcome area. I once had champagne there that was like a drink you find after a party.
Ruinart. You have to book but it’s worth it and the champagne is always very good.
Small growers. First get the guides from the different tourist offices. There’s always one in English. They’ll tell you if the owner speaks English. There’s always a family welcome. You’ll often be guided in the tasting by the person who made the champagne. Find one you like and you’ll want to come back. When you visit a small grower you’ll often see English clients who come regularly to fill the boot of their car. Small growers are the proof that the best champagne is not the most expensive.
Try for example Leclerc Briant in Epernay or Roger Brun in Ay.
Don’t forget the Aube (the most southerly Champagne producing see map region - often overlooked). This department has some of the top small grower champagnes”
See more about Jon Catt’s Champagne Tours
Recommended Reading
Alsace Lorraine Champagne Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne and Sparkling Wine
Key Links:-
Official Champagne wines website
Aube en Champagne website
Cahors from South West France claims to be the birthplace of the Malbec grape, known locally as Auxerrois or Cot, now more familiar to UK wine enthusiasts as a result of the growing popularity of South American Malbecs.
Jonathan Ray in the Telegraph (24 Mar 07) features Dominique Perrin’s Chateau Lagrezette. Perrin was head of Cartier, the luxury goods company, hence his arrival in the provincial Lot departement was quite a complement.
Producing top end wines he brought modern packaging and marketing strategies to the project with great success.
But it appears he has fallen out with the other top prodcuers (such as Chateau le Cedre, Clos Truguedina) and has left the “Seigneurs de Cahors” (Lords of Cahors) group and is now “prefers to go it alone and promote Lagrézette as Lagrézette rather than as a Cahors.”.
Now there is no doubt whatsoever that Chateau Lagrezette produces excellent wines - Robert Parker has awarded an impressive 95 points for Le Pigeonnier 2001. But therein may lie the problem. For one thing Parker tends to prefer a rich oaky style of wine in the tradtion of the best of Bordeaux. Secondly whilst it is clearly possible to create a great and very marketable wine in Cahors, does the result really reflect the essential character of Cahors wines??
This can be a real dilemma for distinctive appellations such as Cahors. I suspect that most tasters will be able to differentiate an Argentinean Malbec from an equivalent quality Cahors. The Cahors.will tend to be more complex with more evident tannins - but that then is the nature of Cahors and gives it distinctiveness.
Using modern techniques it is possible to refine and smooth the wine to produce something which has wider or more sophisticated appeal - but is it Cahors??
This is a real dilemma for traditional wine and food producers - if we are not careful we could homogenise the wonderful diversity and idiosyncracies of local produce into something which no-one can dislike.
However, do try Chateau Lagrezette, I am sure you will find an extraordinarily fine wine - but also try other Cahors wines such as those offered by Advintage Wines
LINKS:-
See the Telegraph article
Website for Chateau Lagrezette
UK stockists include Four Walls WIne Co, East Sussex
Other Cahors wines from stockists such as Advintage Wines
Recommended reading:-
Andrew Jefford’s The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)
South West France - The Wines & Winemakers
