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The Languedoc is such a rich region to visit and explore - wine, history, food, glorious and diverse landscapes.But to get the best out of it you can always do with a knowledgeable guide to help to discover the best - and that is what tour organisers Wine and Food experiences in the Languedocpropose. They offer “epicurean tours for all the senses.”
Their information-packed website offers plenty of choices - B&B accommodation, vineyard visits, restaurants - all of which can be tailored into a package to suit your preferences.
As a flavour of what is on offer, the site includes articles and links to many of the best vineyards in the region - such as Chateau St Martin de la Garrigue in the Coteaux du Languedoc (who also produce the crisp white Picpoul de Pinet); Antech in Limoux ( who call themselves Maistres Blanquetiers - Master Blanquette producers - the “oldest” sparkling wine in the world made from the Mauzac grape.
For more info see www.wine-food-languedoc.com
As usual at this time of year we witness a lot of hoohah with the launch of the latest edition of the most revered guide to French Hotels and Restaurants Michelin Guide France 2007: Hotels and Restaurants (Michelin Guides)
This year is no different, with the spotlight on a female chef who has joined tradtionally very male ranks of the annointed - Anne-Sophie Pic’s seafood restaurant in Valence (26 Drôme, Rhône-Alpes - in the northern Rhone) - The restaurant is called Pic - stylish website at www.pic-valence.com. However, not everyone wants to pay £70+ for a meal - although I suspect it would be a really memorable experience.Pic also has a bistro (le Sept) and rooms if you wanted to make a really good stopover.
But back to the Michelin Guide - you would be wrong to think of the famous red Guide as merely a guide for well-heeled gastronomes seeking only the finest French food and luxurious accommodation. We have used it as an invaluable guide to great value hotels and restaurants throughout France - and have never found it to be less than reliable. Each entry provides price indications, opening times (or more importantly closed days) and contact details and can help you select both good value food (Bib Gourmande and menu economique) and good value hotels (Bib Hotel) from £30 or less per night. The guide also includes street maps of most moderate sized towns and all cities - something we found invaluable before SatNav came along.
There are however other ways of accessing much of the Michelin information - the website at www.viamichelin.co.uk can provide you with access to some excellent mapping, route planning and details of hotels, restaurants, tourist sights etc. 
The English print ersion of the 2007 Guide will not be available until early April - Michelin Guide France 2007: Hotels and Restaurants (Michelin Guides)
The French print version is available at the end of February -Guide Michelin France 2007
Majestic Wine Warehouses has some good offers on French Regional Wines - saving 20% on any 2 bottles over £3.99. Amongst the wide selection offered I’d be tempted by:-
Clos d’Yvigne Cuvée Nicolas 2004, Bergerac Sec AC from South West France - “From the best selling author of ‘The Ripening Sun’, the winemaker Patricia Atkinson brings us this fabulous wine, bursting with citrus, grapefruit and melon fruits. The palate then follows to complex herbal flavours brushed with vanilla.” (£8.49 down to £6.79)
For a very contrasting style from the Languedoc, try Les Douze 2005, Fitou AC - “In 2001 a dozen vignerons from the surrounding villages of Tuchan decided to collectively produce the finest Fitou they could. Each proffered the vintage?s best Carignan, Grenache and Syrah grapes from their respective vineyards to produce this awesome blend. The aptly named Fitou Les Douze is a testament to teamwork, with its gloriously spicy, full-bodied flavours.” (£6.29 down to £4.99!)
For something a little different try Château de Pennautier 2005, Cabardès AC which lies between the Languedoc and the South West - “An intensely fruity, individual wine, made by winemaker Bertrand Seube, formerly of Château Mouton-Rothschild, using a blend of Bordeaux and Southern French varieties. Aromas of fresh raspberries and mulberries follow through to a firm, tannic palate, showing the Cabardès appellation at its best.” Was £5.49 now £4.39
For such a long-established and very traditional and renowned wine producer, Hugel et Fils in Alsace have adopted modern technology with some va va voom! by offering online interactive maps of their famous vineyards around Riquewihr (68 Haut Rhin, Alsace).
There are a series of maps some of which can be overlaid, including aerial views, a geological map and the location of specific vines and “lieu dits”. Much of this can be zoomed in and out, and dragged in any direction. It gives a good sense of the extent of the vineyards and their impact on the landscape.
Alsace is quite a complicated region, and the terroir associated with some really quite small plots can make a significant difference to the character and quality of the wine.“This interactive map enables you to locate our estates in Alsace, to understand the geological complexity of the terroirs of Riquewihr, to visualise individual vineyards and grape varieties, and to measure the interface between vines and soils : Riesling in the Schoenenbourg, Gewurztraminer in the Sporen, finally Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir in the Pflostig.”
Oddbins stocks Hugel’s Riesling “Dry and crisp with underlying lime and kerosene fruit and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with a very long clean finish.”
For more info see http://blog.hugel.com/
P&O Ferries are offering day trips from Docer to Calais from just £19 return for a car + 9 - and a free bottle of wine.
As long as you can get down to Dover early enough (bearing in mind the fact that France is 1 hour ahead of UK time) then you could have a leisurely lunch and do a bit of window and/or hypermarket shopping before an early evening sailing back to Dover. And Boulogne, Arras and Dunkerque are all within less than an hour of the ferry terminal.
Effective French fuel prices have risen slightly since January 07 but are still quite a bit cheaper than the UK - especially for diesel. With a tourist exchange rate of £1=€1.41 the following prices are likely to be found at the more competitive outlets (i.e. not autoroute service areas)
Unleaded (sans plomb 95) €1.179 = 83.4p/litre
Super unleaded (sans plomb 98) €1.229 = 86.9p/litre
Diesel (gazole) €0.998 =70.6p/litre
We opened another of our dwindling stock of the treasured Madiran AC, Cuvée Charles de Batz 2001 from Didier Barré at Domaine Berthoumieu the other night. This fabulous wine won a Gold Medal and the Tannat Trophy in the 2004 International Wine Challenge, and as you may expect it remains an excellent wine, with the tannins a touch subdued, but the fruit and balance enhanced with additional age. No signs of fatigue though - I’m sure it has another 10 years at peak - if I can resist the temptation to drink!
However, I was delighted to discover that the cherubic Didier Barré now has a very good website at www.domaine-berthoumieu.com. Really well-presented with good photos, a lexicon of wine terms, details of the wines etc - but sadly only in French.
Amongst the things which caught my eye was a highly unusual red dessert wine , a”Vin de Liqueur” called TANATIS - made from late harvested (end of October) grapes. These are 100% Tannat (the Madiran grape) from vines which are more than 50 years old. After 10 days of maceration to extract colour and tannins from the flesh, skin and pips, the fermentation is prematurely stopped by the addition of spirit alcohol - in the same manner as the making of Port. This stops the conversion of sugar into alcohol and hence retains a natural sweetness in the wine. After ageing for 8 months in oak barrels it is bottled quite young, but it is claimed it will last up to 15 years in bottle. The tasting notes suggest highly concentrated flavours of wild berries, black berries and a touch of prunes. The French of course suggest it as an aperitif, but I prefer the idea of it accompanying a Chocolate Tart.
Tanatis - Vin de Liqueur du Sud Ouest from Domaine Berthoumieu.
For something rather less unusual, but an excellent white dessert wine - his Pacherenc du Vic Bilh “Symphonie d’Automne” is a stunner.
Read more about Domaine Berthoumieu on www.frenchduck.co.uk
Domaine Berthoumieu at Viella (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) - see map
Didier Barré’s website is at www.domaine-berthoumieu.com.
In the UK the 2003 Cuvee Charles de Batz is available from Martinez Wines in Ilkley, West Yorkshire - shop or order online.
Through the post this week comes an update from one of my favourite Cahors producers - Isabelle Rey-Auriat at Chateau les Hauts d’Aglan. - but my passion is directed at her stunning wines rather than the lady herself, although she is very charming and rather beautiful.
Her top cuvée is the Cuvée “A” - an unfiltered, unoaked 100% Malbec which os a stunning demonstration of how good French Malbec can be - lots of fruit and deep complexity.
The vines of Chateau Les Hauts d’Aglan nestle on the high terraces of the appellation that gave birth to Cahors wine well before the phylloxera. The Martinet family in the 19th century owned and worked this exceptional site on the right bank of the Lot, facing due south so that it benefits from long hours of sunshine.
Isabelle’s grandfather Roger Martinet developed the market for the wines by sending them by barge to Bordeaux. This was the only practical way to reach larger markets at the time. He subsequently passed the property on to his daughter, Raymonde Martinet-Rey and her husband. They devoted themselves for a whole generation to remodelling the domain by regrouping neighbouring parcels of land with the same sub-soil. They created a property of 10 contiguous and homogeneous hectares and established the reputation of Chateau Les Hauts d’Aglan in 1985.
History repeats itself and the property has been handed down from daughter to daughter. Isabelle took over the property in 1994 and expanded the area of vines by absorbing Chateau de La Marjolière thus creating a property totalling 14 hectares, 
She brought back to life the “Cuvée A”, “a wine of wonderful memories of Sunday family meals with her grandparents, surrounded by their vines.”
The vineyard is in the commune of Soturac in the extreme west of the appellation (see map) at an altitude of 100 metres close to the boundary of the Bordeaux region. This means that the grapes mature 8 to 10 days in advance of those at the eastern limit of the appellation. The roots grow deep into the exceptional subsoil of the Old Quaternary Era, a soil of clay limestone (argilo-calcaire) containing flint and iron minerals which nourish the grapes and thus give the wines of Chateau Les Hauts d’Aglan their unique and refined character.
She works with two grape varieties: Malbec which accounts for 90% of the production, and Merlot. Malbec, also known locally as Auxerrois or more generally Cot Noir, is the original variety of the Cahors appellation. It brings structure, complexity and power to the wines. Merlot is a complementary variety which adds finesse, body and roundness, as well as an elegant bouquet in early years, later giving way to the powerful aromas the violets, liquorice,
spice and candied fruit of the Malbec.
The wines are vinified in stainless steelsvats, parcel by parcel in order to get the best from each. The wine remains on the skins for 15 to 20 days to extract the colour, aromas and structure needed for good aging, without including the coarse tannins, which are too astringent and can upset the balance of the wine. They have one overriding objective, which is to produce wines which are characterful, long lasting, full with finesse, elegance and complexity and which balance the characteristics of the Malbec with those of the terroir to give maximum pleasure!
After the blending, the wines are kept for 24 to 36 months in concrete vats to guarantee the harmonisation of the tannins and to allow the wines to begin to open out before going on sale. They will then be enjoyed with red meat, foie gras or fine cheeses - they are also good with spicy dishes.
I’m not aware of any UK stockist (let me know if I am wrong) - she does not appear to have a website, so you’ll just have to visit the vineyard - well worth a little detour.
Bazas (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) celebrates the local tradition of fatted oxen (Fete des Boeufs Gras) on 15 February 2007 (see www.ville-bazas.fr)
Bazas was the location where Rick Stein discovered the difference between beef from steers/oxen rather than cows during his last series - Rick Stein’s French Odyssey
Every year they celebrate this high quality marbled beef which is best expressed as an “Entrecote” literally “between the sides” - a boneless steak of beef cut from the sirloin best cooked quickly - either grilled or fried.
Inevitably the French take great and understandable pride in their specialist local produce - so there will be a festival, a procession, music and a competition for the biggest and best beast.
Should you happen to be in the area (between Bordeaux and Agen) then experience Bazas beef at is best at Le Bistrot St Jean in the Place de la Cathedrale.(see map)
The wines of Madiran have had quite a boost since the recent publication of Roger Corder’s book The Wine Diet
Leon Stolarski Fine Wines were ahead of the game and have been featuring Madiran wines for some time from Chateau Peyros.- bit now the increased demand for these wines means they can offer a wider range of cuvees, covering the range from a lighter, more approachable style through to a full-on blockbuster.
The lighter style is the Chateau Peyosr Tempo 2004, which is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet France and Tannat - and retails at a competitive £6.90.
At the top end is the new Chateau Peyros Greenwich 43N 2001 which is 95% Tannat - “aged in new oak barrels for 20 months. A deep, impenetrable purple core with a dark ruby rim - totally opaque. An intense nose - black and red fruits dominate (cassis, bramble and plum) together with spicy/peppery notes and some well-integrated coffee-infused oak. Immensely rich and full-bodied, with masses of dark fruit flavours, spicy, chocolatey tannins and excellent underlying acidity - well balanced, in a big sort of way. The tannins are undoubtedly winning at the moment, but this is not a wine for the short term. The fruit is multi-layered and concentrated and will definitely come to the fore after a few more years in the cellar. It can be drunk now, but definitely needs rich food to bring the best out of it - something flavoursome and fatty, such as a rib of beef, lamb chops or duck. An excellent wine for the long haul.13.5% abv.
These are wines for food, and often need a little time to come up to temperature and to breathe a little to reveal their true depth and splendour - these are not for the faint-hearted, but with the right food and company they can be glorious!!!
And full marks to Leon Stolarski for stocking such an exciting range of wines.
If there are is a slight intermission in new articles on the site for a few days, then blame the latest addition to the FrenchDuck bookshelf - Cooking and Travelling in South-West France
Amongst the recipes is a very traditional “Magret de Canard” - breast of fattened duck. This happens to be one of our favourite dishes, and as Stephanie Alexander points out, this is partly due to the contradiction of a rich layer of fat over some wonderfully flavourful and lean breast meat. She is right in saying that using British duckling, no matter how good the quality, really does not match the depth of flavour in the French fattened duck. (i.e. canard - duck, canette = duckling).The other bonus from properly preparing a magret, is the rendered duck fat which results - ideal for great roast potatoes - and low in saturated fats. However, back to the recipe - this includes all the garnish that makes the dish authentic - garlic, shallots, onions, carrots, potatoes - rather than the lazy option of salad and saute potatoes.
All that is needed to finish off the meal would be a bottle of robust red wine, such as Cahors, Madiran, Buzet etc.
Great photos, chapters on markets. foie gras and confit, prunes and plums, walnuts and chestnuts…. so a great read either for a bit of daydreaming or reminiscence, for recipes, or for planning your next visit to the region. By far the best book on the region I have yet to come across.
