Armagnacs from Domaine de Lauroux
A recent invitation to taste a couple of vintage Armagnacs was something too good to miss, as I tend to prefer this brandy to the more widely available and commercial Cognac. One of the reasons is that most Armagnac is produced by small domaines rather than large multi-nationals, so you can establish more of a connection to place and people.
In this instance the people are an English couple, Nick and Karen Kitchener who took over the Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees – (see map) in 2004, whose red, white and rosé Vins de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne we have tasted before.
However, tasting Armagnacs (or Cognacs come to that) is not quite as easy as tasting wines (see www.frenchduck.co.uk) but we managed to rise to the challenge. We had 2 fine Armagnacs to taste – a vintage 1967 and a 15 year old – the first being Armagnac only from the 1967 harvest; the second a blend of Armagnacs which have been matured in oak for at least 15 years.
The Lauroux Armagnacs are based on wines made from 100% Ugni Blanc which are then distilled and aged in oak – initially new oak barrels to extract colour and tannin, and later in older barrels to allow for slow maturation. Once bottled Armagnacs do not develop further.
The colour of both Armagnacs was an attractice mahogany brown – the use of clear bottles helps here. What was noticeable with both bottles was that after the initial hit of the alcoholic spirit, they were both surprisingly delicate to the taste with discernible fruit characteristics.
The 15 year old came across a touch lighter and more floral but with nutty, almond tones – whereas the 1967 was noticeably richer with more depth of complex flavours – and almost a sweet edge (caramel) – and beautifully smooth in the mouth. I could happily drink both, although inevitably the older bottle had the edge. But compared to cheap brandies, these 2 bottles were akin to putting 2 classic vintage Champagnes against cheap fizz – it is quite a different level of exquisiteness!!
Nick and Karen are hoping to put their Armagnacs online soon, but in the meantime they can be found at Planet of the Grapes, Bentleys of Ludlow and at the Butchers Arms Pub/Restaurant in Priors Hardwick, Warwickshire.
For more info on the Armagnacs of Domaine de Lauroux – see http://frenchduck.co.uk
For more on Domaine de Lauroux wines see www.frenchduck.co.uk/lauroux.html
Domaine de Lauroux, Manciet, France



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