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As Christmas (and Winter) approaches we’ve been on the lookout for some French food delights for the festive season. Two objectives in mind - firstly some Foie Gras and maybe some rich warming winter dish from the South West of France.
Our first stop was Dordogne Direct near Cirencester who we’ve known for some time - only to discover that their name is now something of a misnomer - because their range of products now extends well beyond the Dordogne and South West - e.g. into the Languedoc and Provence. Here you can get hold of a jar of Petit Salé - a very French concoction made with proper Toulouse sausages, Puy lentils, herbs and garlic. This was one of the dishes featured in Rick Stein’s French Odyssey
From Provence they have some real gems - such as Rouille, the Spicy mayonnaise paste - made with chilli, mustard and pimento - which complements a proper Bouillabaisse (Mediterranean Fish Stew); an onion confit (Confit d’Oignons), an Aubergine Caviar! and of course a good selection of Foie Gras (fattened Goose or Duck Liver). I marginally prefer the Duck Foie Gras - it has more flavour, but Goose is definitely more refined and better textured.
Other UK sources of French Gourmet foods include:-
French Flavour in Wrexham, North Wales
Julien de Provence with a selection of products from Provence and the Lot Valley (SW France)
Devigne Wines & Confit Direct in Welshpool, wo have a wide range of products on offer.
easyjet has announced more flights to Bordeaux, this time from Bristol, starting in June 2007. This re-establishes a link between the two twinned cities, arising from the close relationship developed in the 19th Century with wine shipping. Numerous important wine merchants and importers were established in Bristol (e.g. Averys), with the facility of ships moving wine barrels directly from the heart of Bordeaux on the Garonne to the city centre of Bristol on the Avon.
Meanwhile www.flybe.com is offering Avignon as a destination from both Exeter and Southampton next summer, and nearby Marseille gets a www.ryanair.com service from London Stansted. Both these destinations are in a perfect position to allow you to indulge in the food and wine of Provence - Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras, Gigonas, Lirac, Cotes du Rhone, Tavel, Cotes de Provence, Les Baux de Provence…..
For more on French flight destinations see www.frenchduck.co.uk/travel/flights.html
| December 7, 2006 | to | December 10, 2006 |
Every year the city of Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) stages a remarkable festival of lights, its Fete des Lumières - this year the festival is taking place from Thursday 7th to Sunday 10th December 2006.
“A path of light will go all the way from the plateau of the Croix-Rousse down to the Place Carnot.” originally established to celebrate the anniversary of the unveiling of a statue of the Virgin Mary on the Fourvière hillside - a celebration of thanks to the Virgin Mary, who purportedly saved the city from a deadly plague in the Middle Ages. Every house on the route has a candle in the window which together with the torchlit parade provides a stunning winter spectacle. Other sites in the city will also be floodlit, such as the Church of Saint Nizier and the hill of Fourvière, City Hall (Hotel de Ville) and several bridges over the river Rhone.
Lyon, of course prides itself as being the gastronomic capital of France, so it is awash with plenty of restaurants and “Bouchons, small intimate bistros serving local Lyonnais fare - lots of local pork for the famous Lyon sausages; andouillette à la lyonnaise (a sausage stuffed with tripe, veal and served with fried onions), salade lyonnaise (lamb and chicken liver). For wine there is a wide choice from Beaujolais to the north and the northern Rhone to the south - the local Coteaux du Lyonnais AC is a light Gamay red, little seen elsewhere. (although the Wine Society stocks one) Parts of the old town (Vieux Lyon) are recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site with their narrow passageways (traboules) that pass through buildings and link the streets either side.
For more info see www.en.lyon-france.com
| December 3, 2006 |
On the first weekend of December (this year its on Sunday 3 December 2006) the Bandol appellation celebrates the new vintage. Bandol (83 Var, Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur) is on the Provencal mediterranean coast east of Marseille, with a pretty (and fashionable) port backed by steep hills where the vines are grown - the position is stunning - Provence light and sun, mediterranean harbour and beaches - and some excellent wines.
The appellation is distinctive in showcasing the Mourvedre grape - a rich and quite tannic variety used throughout the Languedoc and southern Rhone, but here it takes a major role. Mourvedre must comprise at least 50% of the blend, and can be supplemented with Cinsault and Grenache - although many winemakers will increase the amount of Mourvedre up to 100%. The same grapes make an excellent rose, whilst Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc form the basis of a delightful white wine.
At Allez Vins! we used to import the wines of Domaine BUNAN/Moulin des Costes - wonderfully intense rich wines - the domaine itself is well worth visiting being high up in the hills with stunning views towards the mediterraean. Their wines are available from the excellent Yapp Brothers in Mere, Wiltshire (and online, mail order)
Back to the festival - “Bandol wine lovers have no doubt about it: the Bandol New Vintage Wine Festival is not just another fair. It is a unique meeting with dedicated winemakers who, in 1982, had the idea of this unusual winter presentation of their recently made young wines, still raw and yet already full of promise.Since then, every first Sunday in December, the Mediterranean port from where, formerly, the precious barrels branded with the B for Bandol were shipped, is invaded by thousands of wine enthusiasts. They come to share the secret of Bandol wine and its legendary grape variety: the Mourvèdre.”
For more info on the Bandol Fete du Millesime see www.vinsdebandol.com
For more info on Domaine Bunan/Moulin des Costes see www.bunan.com
The Independent (25 Nov 2006) has another of its French blitzes this time with an excellent guide to the best museums in Paris and beyond and a guide to the French wine regions.
A useful and new reference is the Centre des Monuments Nationaux a collection of nearly 250 important monuments, many of them cathedrals, castles and museums. The collection includes famous names such as Mont-Saint-Michel, Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe and the Panthéon, as well as things like the ramparts around the medieval town of Aigues-Mortes.
Another discovery is the Maxim’s museum (see image above) where Pierre Cardin has recreated the rooms of a renowned courtesan in 1900 - 12 rooms furnished with articles and fine furniture by Tiffany, Majorel, Galle and others - all in the Art Nouveau style.
On the wine front there is a good set of links to the wine regions of France: ” Everyone has heard of French wine, particularly the reds of Bordeaux and Burgundy and the whites of the Loire Valley, but few people really know “wine France”. Just as there are wines for every occasion - champagne for a celebration, fortified Pineau des Charentes for an apéritif, smooth Armagnac to end a meal - so France’s 17 wine regions, from Alsace to Corsica, all have something different to offer.” See www.independent.co.uk
Englishwoman Patricia Atkinson at Close d’Yvigne has established a name for herself as a writer and a successful winemaker in the Bergerac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) - see The Ripening Sun: One Woman and the Creation of a Vineyard
There are 2 substantial properties available - Le Tabardy which can sleep up to 12 people and Madame Cholet’s Perigord Farmhouse which sleeps up to 8. Both are extremely spacious and well-appointed with large swimming pool.
Situated in the heart of the Bergerac vineyards (which also include Monbazillac, Saussignac, Pecharmant and other appellations) near the Dordogne river with plenty of interesting villages and countryside, there is plenty to see, do, eat (Perigord cuisine) and drink. Even the vineyards and attractive village of St Emilion is only just over an hour away.
For more details see www.cdywine.com
For wine enthusiasts there can be few more attractive options for holidays than spending part of the time surrounded by vines on a vineyard, with some preferential access to the winemaker, cellars and maybe even a few bottles of wine - it always tastes so much better on site.
Several years ago, whilst still actively importing wine, I stayed at Chateau Gibalaux-Bonnet in the Minervois (near Laure-Minervois 11 Aude, Languedoc). Now in addition to some very good wines (especially their Cuvée Prieuré, an oaked red which rates as one of the most memorable bottles I have tasted) they also have a self-catering Gite and 3 B&B rooms (Chambres d’Hotes). The domain is wonderfully isolated in the scrubby moorland north of Trebes - ideal for walking and enjoying the scents of the “garrigue”. For more info on the accommodation see www.gibalaux.com/ and for more on their wines see www.gibalaux.on-web.fr
Other options include:-
Clos Montels at Caux in the Languedoc (34 Herault)
In Cahors you could stay at one of our favourites - Chateau les Hauts d’Aglan at Soturac (near Fumel) - no website I can find but email Isabelle Rey-Auriat or phone 00 33 565365202
in Bergerac Chateau Les Miaudoux offers a fine looking Gite
In the Gers (32 Midi-Pyrenees) Domaine de Lauroux makes Cotes de Gascogne wines, Floc de Gascogne and Armagnac - and has both self-catering and B&B accommodation on offer
Every autumn sees the publication of the annual “Guide Hachette des Vins de France“, something which winemakers and merchants await with interest. It is in many ways something of a bible as far as French wines are concerned, being a description and rating of some of the best wines from across France, selected at blind tastings - less than 1 in 3 of the wines offered get through. This year’s edition is even bigger running to 1400 pages - and a hefty €26.00 price tag. But there is much to gain - updates on the regions, selected “favourites”, a guide to grape varietals and new this year are details of B&Bs (Chambres d’Hotes) and self-catering accommodation (Gites Ruraux) on vineyard estates. The only problem is that the guide is in French - not available currently in English.
Within the pages the panel selects its “Coups de Coeur” (favourites) which represent some of the best wines tasted (at all price levels) - and these are distinguished by the display of the wine label on the page. So this year I find the Saussignac AC from Clos d’Yvigne is rewarded as a Coup de Coeur - made by Patricia Atkinson, author of “The Ripening Sun: One Woman and the Creation of a Vineyard
Saussignac is a dessert wine from the western part of Bergerac which is made from botrytised Semillon and sometimes Muscadelle grapes. The one we know best is from Guy Cuisset at nearby Chateau Grinou. Recognition has also come from UK wine writers such as Jane McQuitty in the Times - “It’s amber-gold colour and rich, honeyed, butterscotch-scented style delivers classy, creamy fruit - just right with strawberries and cream. …”.
To cap it all, the domaine also offers on-vineyard accommodation - 2 rather splendid looking houses (they look a bit grand to be called “gites” situated amongst the vines.
For more info see www.cdywine.com/
You can order the Le guide Hachette des vins
Can you teach one of the lads to appreciate wine? Well, the enthusiasm of Oz Clarke must stand a chance you would think - he is knowledgeable, articulate and distinctly non-snobby about wine; but when the “lad” is James May from BBC2’s Top Gear, then the prospects diminish.
BBC2 starts a 5-week series “Big Wine Adventure” on Wednesday 22 November 2006 (8pm on Wednesdays until 20 December) and attempts to introduce James to the joys of Bordeaux, Languedoc, Provence, Rhone, Alsace, Burgundy and Champagne during a month’s tour of France. As with much TV these days, I cynically expect that James will play to the camera and seek to maintain a laddish disdain for the finer points - and the interplay between the two characters and some stunning scenery will dominate.Will he or anyone else learn much? I doubt it!
However, despite my Bah! Humbug! response, it should make entertaining TV and I welcome more exposure for France and French wines - and yes I will watch it!
For more info see www.bbc.co.uk
Majestic Wine Warehouses and Majestic Online
have a good selection of French wines if you want to follow the journey!
Paris is such a walkable city, especially on a mild sunny autumn day. The metro is certainly the fastest way between any two points, the buses are good, but usually involve too many changes, you can do it by bike or even rollerblade - but walking seems best - the right pace, the ease of stopping and admiring the view or pausing for a coffee or window shopping.
Of all the many and varied guide books to Paris, a new concept seems to just fit with the practicalities of strolling - a series of 50 short walks each on a separate card with map and commentary. So just decide which area(s) you want, choose your cards (from a set of 50) and carry them in your pocket - no bulky books, or flimsy maps to unfold - perfect!
City Walks: Paris: 50 Adventures on Foot
One of the walks in the pack is a new “Promenade Plantée” in the 12th Arondissement (see map) which starts atop an old railway viaduct near the new Opera Bastille. Underneath in the arches are numerous classy emporiums selling very esoteric items such as intricate flower displays, antique and designer furniture, fashions etc, whilst above the old railway line has been planted with trees and shrubs and affords a high level view of the surrounding streets and even into the first and second floors of the adjoining houses and apartments. The route continues following the old railway line sometimes at street level, sometimes in cuttings or over and under bridges right out to the Boulevard Periperique - providing a green, traffic free route (and cycle lane) across the city.
The Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) is run by English couple Nick and Karen Kitchener, who also make wines and Floc de Gascogne on their 19 hectare vineyard in the Bas Armagnac region.
Their Armagnacs are made from 100% Ugni Blanc grapes grown on silica clay soils on slopes and plateaux in the gently undulating countryside of deepest Gascony. Here the climate is Oceanic (from the Atlantic), but tempered by the Landes Forest to the west and the Pyrenees mountains to the south.
Armagnacs are created slowly using traditional methods of continuous distillation in an “alambic” still. In autumn the Ugni Blanc grapes are harvested and fermented into wine which is then distilled on the domaine in November or December in the wood-fired still.
After distillation the “eaux de vie”, which is colourless is kept in new oak barrels or the first few years of ageing - it is at this stage that the Armagnac gains its colour. The spirit is still in its fiery youth but already has aromatic, fruity scents including pear and prune. Once it has absorbed the tannins from the wood it is placed in older barrels to develop complexity and extra sweetness arriving at a perfect state of blance between the tannins, aromas and alcohol. Ageing can last for decades and required enormous patience - only time can do the work.
During ageing a partial evaporation takes place - typically 0.5% vol.alc per year - known in Gascony as “the angels’ share”. As the ageing process continues the alcohol decreases progressively by evaporation and the spirit takes on a fine amber, then mahogany colour.
Armagnac does not age further in the bottle, and can be enjoyed immediately after purchase. The bottle sould be kept upright so that the alcohol does not affect the cork.
The domaine has a range of Armagnacs available:-
VSOP
10 ans (10 years aged)
Hors d’Age (literally “without age” but means at least 10 years ageing)
15 Ans (15 years aged)
25 Ans Special Edition (25 years aged)
Plus individual vintages including
1929, 1937, 1946, 1950, 1957, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1967, 1968, 1970, 1972. 1974, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982. 1983, 1985, 1986. 1987, 1990
For tasting notes and info on the Domaine de Lauroux’s 1967 and 15 year old Armagnacs see www.frenchduck.com
For more info on Domaine de Laroux - see www.lauroux.com
For more info on Armagnac (in french) see www.armagnac.org
For hints on tasting Armagnac see www.renchduck.co.uk
A few weeks ago we featured a satellite picture of France taken from space, which was fascinating in making clear the impact of the rivers and mountains on the geography, settlement and agriculture of France - esepcially vines.
The map was published by the Institut Geographique National (IGN) the French equivalent of the Ordnance Survey and main competitor to the ubiquitous Michelin maps.
IGN also publish a series of raised relief maps, which take the idea one stage further, especially in the mountainous regions, where you can really get an excellent appreciation of the landscape, slopes and peaks which dominate the country from the raised plastic contours of the map.
They range from a small map of the whole of France, to larger scale versions for specific regions - we used to have one of the Beaujolais region which was great to show customers where the cru regions were and how they connected to or were separated from adjacent vineyards. Unfortunately the wear and tear of a busy wine cellar, tastings and shows eventually took its toll.
However, such a thing could make a great Christmas present for an avid francophile, and properly mounted on the wall it should avoid the fate of our Beaujolais map.
Elstead Maps is offering a 10% discount on IGN’s range of relief maps to its mailing list customers - including the small France map above, the Beaujolais map and many more.
Alternatively you can see the range at the IGN website at www.ign.fr
from Dorling Kindersley.
Quercy is the ancient name of a region of South West France in the Lot and Lot-et-Garonne départements roughly centred on Cahors (46, Lot, Midi-Pyrenees). The Coteaux du Quercy wine appellation however lies to the south of Cahors down towards Montauban (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees). It is lassified as a VDQS ( Appellation d’Origine Vin De Qualité Supérieure), which is a category between “Vin de Pays” and full AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controllée or AC) and has similar but less stringent restrictions of grape varietals, yield etc.
Some think of Coteaux du Quercy as a minor “Cahors”, the Malbec dominated rich red, but it is in fact something quite different and somewhat unusual for SW France in that the main grape is the Cabernet Franc (between 40% and 60% of the blend) - the other varieties being côt (malbec or auxerrois), gamay, merlot and tannat, none of which can exceed 20% of the blend.
The terroir is typically on the high limestone “causse” or moorland between the Lot Valley in the north and the Aveyron and Tarn Valleys in the south. Only red and rosé wines are produced, which tend to be quite complex but less tannic than Cahors. The dominance of Cabernet Franc can suggests a more fruity style than their neighbours. Production is almost entirely by small independent winemakers, and it is really only in recent years that the wines have been exported outside the immediate region. There is a co-operative (Vignerons de Quercy) - Premier Crew wines in Warminster stock the “Bessy de Boissy” red.
If you are travelling through the region it is worth a small detour to David & Sarah Meakin’s Domaine du Merchien at Belfort-du-Quercy (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees - see map) where this couple are making some superb wines (and beers!!) which are rapidly gaining a well-deserved reputation.They also have an interesting blog at http://merchien.blogspot.com/
Down in rural Sussex n the centre of Hurstpierpoint High Street, 10 miles north of Brighton, just off the A23 you’ll discover South Downs Cellars - and behind the modest facade you’ll be greeted with an excellent choice of wines from South West France including some real classy and classic producers such as Chateau de Cedre in Cahors (one of the very best); Madiran and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh from Bouscassé; Bergerac from Patricia Atkinson at Clos d’Yvigne; and wines from Chateau Beaulieu in the Cotes du Marmandais! Their Alsace selection includes great names such as Hugel and Rolly Gassman; In the Loire they have gone for big names such as Couly-Dutheil’s Chinon and Henry Pellé’s Menetou-Salon AND some rarer sightings such as Valencay AC and Coteaux du Giennois - so a judicious selection of some of the best producers sprinkled with interesting lesser-known offerings. I would have no problem in putting together a rather good mixed case of quality interesting wines - other than to decide what to leave out.
They have a shop, online ordering and a wine club. Their Christmas tasting is on Sat 25 November 2006 - not to be missed I’d say.
For more info see www.southdownscellars.co.uk
Click for more on Patricia Atkinson and Clos d’Yvigne
Click for more info on the Cotes du Marmandais!
Market days in departement 24 - Dordogne, Aquitaine.
Based on local info - please check beforehand. Some markets only operate in the Summer months
* indicates irregular pattern - i.e not necessarily every week.
Audrix :- Saturday*
Beaumont :- Tuesday, Saturday
Belves :- Wednesday pm*, Saturday
Bergerac - Naillac :- Sunday
Bergerac - place de la Madeleine :- Friday
Bergerac - place des 2 Conils :- Wednesday
Bergerac - place du Marche :- Wednesday, Saturday
Bergerac - place Gambetta :- Wednesday, Saturday
Biron :- Wednesday*
Bouzic :- Tuesday eve*
Brantome :- Tuesday*, Friday
Cadouin :- Monday pm*
Domme :- Thursday
Eymet :- Thursday, Tuesday eve*
Issigeac :- Sunday
Le Bugue :- Tuesday, Saturday
Le Buisson-de-Cadouin :- Friday
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac :- Monday
Marquay :- Sunday*
Meyrals :- Thursday, Saturday eve*
Monpazier :- Thursday
Perigueux :- Wednesday, Saturday
Piegut-Pluviers :- Wednesday
Riberac :- Tuesday*, Friday
Salignac :- Tuesday*, Friday pm*
Sarlat-la-Caneda :- Wednesday, Saturday
Siorac-en-Perigord :- Wednesday
St-Amand-de-Coly :- Tuesday eve
St-Aulaye :- Saturday
St-Cyprien :- Sunday
Ste-Alvere :- Saturday*
St-Front-de-Pradoux :- Sunday*
St-Genies :- Sunday
St-Georges-de-Montclard :- Friday eve*
St-Julien-de-Lampon :- Thursday
St-Martial-de-Nabirat :- Thursday eve*
Thenon :- Tuesday
Thiviers :- Tuesday*, Saturday
Vezac :- Monday*
