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The INAO, Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, is the body charged with approving and managing the French Appellation Controllée system - and not just for wine - meat, cheese, garlic, cream. black sausage, cider………
Andrew at www.spittoon.biz drew my attention to the recent creation of some new AOCs - for Orléans, Orléans-Cléry and Chaume.
Chaume (49 Maine-et-Loire, Pays de la Loire - see map) has until now been one of the Coteaux du Layon Villages - Premier cru des Coteaux du Layon - an area renowned for producing superb dessert wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. But now it is an appellation in its own right - Chaume AC! - somehow I think it sounded better as part of the Coteaux du Layon. And here lies the problem - the proud winemakers in Chaume will have worked hard and have lobbied harder to get their village’s wines recognised as being in a category of their own, and are doubtless rejoicing at their deserved success. Similarly for Orleans AC and Orleans-Clery AC, which I am sure are very palatable wines.
BUT - does it really make their wines any more marketable, especially as many consumers will never have heard of it?
I can see that elevation from a potentially humble Vin de Pays to the elevated rank of Appellation Controllée can make a difference, but these other sub-classifications and do not help anyone in the end - except for a little civic pride.
I suspect that if you ever get to taste an Orléans-Cléray AC (a cabernet franc-dominated red), it will owe more to an individual producer making a really good wine and getting some adventurous wine merchant (probably a small indpendent) to taste and then stock it. I doubt it will owe much to its AC status.
One such adventurous wine merchant who does the Loire well is Yapp, who stocks several wines from the Coteaux du Layon AC, a Jasnières AC and a Thouarsais! VDQS.

In France our favourite producer of Coteaux du Layon wines is Antoine Leduc at Domaine Leduc-Frouin.
Recommended Book on dessert wines: Stephen Brook’s Liquid Gold: Dessert Wines of the World

There are some things that the French just do differently. Breakfast in a French hotel is quite different to anything in the UK - and for most of us it is best to avoid the French version of a cooked breakfast - usually some disgusting scrambled egg and thin bacon kept warm for too long - and tea is never as good as at home.
So generally we enter into the sprit and go for the ham or salami and cheese - but seldom the “cake” or “brioche” which just does not seem like a breakfast item!
The Brioche is a yeast cake - a light but rich bread made from flour, yeast, milk, butter and eggs - and is what myth suggests Marie Antoinette was referring to when she said of starving peasants something along the lines of “well, if they’ve run out of bread, let them eat cake!”
It can be quite confusing - as it appears in a number of different guises - from an almost tradtional tin loaf shape, to the more ornate fluted brioche with a cap made in a special mould called “brioche à Tete”.
It is especially popular in France at breakfast time (as if fresh baguette, croissants, pain au chocolat, pain au raisins etc were not enough). In Nanterre (92 Hauts-de-Seine, Ile de France) 6-8 brioche buns are arranged in zigzag pattern, whilst the Brioche Parisienne has more balls of brioche arranged in circle.
One advantage of the brioche in France is that it does not go dry and stale as quickly as the traditional baguette.
In Provence they make a highly decorated and flavoured Brioche des Rois (of the kings) for Epiphany (early January) embellished with orange water, rum essence, lemon, apricot jam and glacé fruits.
You can find a recipe for Brioche in Elizabeth David’s English Bread and Yeast Cookery (Cookery Library)

Clamecy (89 Nièvre, Bourgogne - see map) is in many ways a very typical small provincial french town - and quite delightful - except that it when they choose to dig up the whole of the town centre to pedestrianise it! The French approach to road works seems to be to virtually close the town by attacking every street in the “Grand Projet Municipale” making it almost impossible to drive or even walk during the work.
However, I am sure the disruption we witnessed in the Spring has now passed, and the town is improved by the scheme.
It is on a Saturday morning market in such a town that you know you are in France - the market stalls thronging the centre of the town down narrow streets, the quality of the produce, the artfully displayed vegetables and fruit, the smell of the roasting chickens and the sheer hubbub of the locals meeting, talking, haggling and buying, the café tables on the pavement - all go to make it an enjoyable experience. We always buy some local cheese or charcuterie for our lunch as a memento of the visit.
Clamecy has all that on a Saturday morning - indeed it has a rue du Grand Marché and rue du Petit Marché which illustrate what an important part the market plays in local life.The rivers Beuvron and Yonne together with the Nivernais canal provide the town with a pleasant air of purpose and importance.
You are in northern Burgundy here so the wines are not always exciting - except for Chablis some 30-odd miles to the north east. The reds tend to be a bit thin for my liking - the local wine is a Vin de Pays Coteaux du Tannay - some decent Chardonnay is available from Chablis producer Jean-Marc Brocard.
The Canal meanders north towards Auxerre, and following the minor roads alongside the canal is delightful with some great places for that picnic. Take a detour into the village of Chateau Mailly for some great views of the valley from the top.
For more info see www.vaux-yonne.com

Markets in 62 Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Some markets only take place in Summer - check beforehand with the local tourist office or town hall.

Aire-sur-la-Lys Friday
Aix-Noulette Friday
Allouagne Wednesday
Ambleteuse Wednesday
Annay-sous-Lens Wednesday
Annezin Saturday
Ardres Thursday
Arques Tuesday
Arras Wednesday, Thursday , Saturday, Sunday
Auchel Tuesday
Auchy-les-Mines Saturday
Audresselles Monday
Audruicq Wednesday
Auxi-le-Château Saturday
Avesnes-le-Comte Friday
Avion Thursday , Friday
Bailleul-s-Berthoult Friday
Bapaume Friday
Barlin Wednesday
Beaurainville Wednesday
Berck Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday
Béthune Monday , Thursday , Friday
Beuvry Friday
Biache-St-Vaast Thursday
Billy-Montigny Wednesday, Sunday
Blendecques Thursday
Boulogne-sur-Mer Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday
Brebières Thursday
Bresmes-les-Ardres Sunday
Bruay-Làbuissière Friday , Sunday
Bully-les-Mines Thursday , Saturday
Calais Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday,Sunday
Calonne-Ricouart Thursday
Camiers Monday , Thursday
Carvin Saturday
Chocques Thursday
Condette Sunday
Corbehem Friday
Coulogne Monday
Courcelles-lès-Lens Sunday
Courrières Wednesday
Cucq Wednesday, Sunday
Cuinchy Saturday


Desvres Tuesday
Divion Wednesday
Dourges Saturday
Douvrin Monday
Drocourt Thursday
Écourt-St-Quentin Wednesday
Estevelles Tuesday
Étaples Tuesday, Friday
Fauquembergues Thursday
Fouquières-lès-Lens Friday
Frévent Tuesday
Friuges Saturday
Grenay Tuesday
Guînes Friday
Haillicourt Thursday
Harnes Thursday
Hénin-Beaumont Tuesday, Friday
Hersin-Coupigny Saturday
Hesdin Thursday
Houdain Thursday , Saturday
Hucqueliers Wednesday
Isbergues Thursday
Le-Portel Tuesday, Friday
Le-Touquet Monday , Thursday , Saturday
Lens Tuesday, Friday , Saturday
Libercourt Thursday
Licques Monday
Liévin Wednesday, Sunday
Lillers Saturday
Loison-sous-Lens Saturday
Longuenesse Wednesday
Loos-en-Gohelle Thursday
Lumbres Friday
Marck Tuesday
Marles-les-Mines Saturday
Marquise Thursday
Mazingarbe Wednesday, Friday , Saturday
Méricourt Saturday
Montigny-en-Gohelle Monday
Montreuil-sur-Mer Saturday
Noeux-les-Mines Tuesday, Friday
Noyelles-Godault Thursday
Noyelles-sous-Lens Wednesday
Oignies Tuesday
Oisy-le-Verger Wednesday
Outreau Monday , Thursday
Oye-Plage Wednesday
Pas-en-Artois Tuesday
Pernes Thursday
Pont-à-Vendin Thursday
Rinxent Sunday
Rouvroy Monday
Sains-en-Gohelle Wednesday
St-Martin-Boulogne Thursday
St-Omer Wednesday, Saturday
St-Pol-sur-Ternoise Monday
Sallaumines Monday , Saturday
Samer Monday
Sangatte Friday
Souchez Tuesday
Thérouanne Tuesday
Vendin-le-Vieil Monday , Friday
Vermelles Monday
Vimy Saturday
Vitry-en-Artois Tuesday
Wimereux Tuesday, Friday
Wingles Wednesday
Wissant Wednesday
Wizernes Sunday

* Basilique et colline de Vézelay (1979) 89, Yonne, Burgundy _ Basilica and Hill
* Cathédrale de Chartres (1979)
* Mont-Saint-Michel et sa baie (1979) including the bay
* Palais et parc de Versailles (1979) Palace and park
* Sites préhistoriques et grottes ornées de la vallée de la Vézère (1979) - prehistoric sites and caves in the Vezere valley in the Dordogne
* Abbaye cistercienne de Fontenay (1981) Cistercian Abbey
* Arles, monuments romains et romans (1981) monuments
* Cathédrale d’Amiens (1981) cathedral
* Palais et parc de Fontainebleau (1981) palace and park
* Théâtre antique et ses abords et « Arc de Triomphe » d’Orange (1981)- the ampitheatre and Triumphant Arch
* Saline royale d’Arc-et-Senans (1982) Royal Salt Works
* Abbatiale de Saint-Savin sur Gartempe (1983) Abbey
* Golfe de Porto : calanche de Piana, golfe de Girolata, réserve de Scandola (1983) #
* Places Stanislas, de la Carrière et d’Alliance à Nancy (1983) City squares
* Pont du Gard (1985)
* Strasbourg – Grande île (1988)
* Cathédrale Notre-Dame, ancienne abbaye Saint-Remi et palais de TauReims (1991) Cathedral, Abbey and Palace
* Paris, rives de la Seine (1991) - banks of the Seine
* Cathédrale de Bourges (1992) Cathedral
* Centre historique d’Avignon : Palais des papes, ensemble Episcopal et Pont d’Avignon (1995) Popes’ Palace and the Avignon bridge
* Canal du Midi (1996)
* Pyrénées - Mont Perdu (1997, 1999) *
* Ville fortifiée historique de Carcassonne (1997) 11, Aude, Languedoc - fortified medieval city
* Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle en France (1998) - the pilgrim routes across France towards St Jean de Compostelle
* Site historique de Lyon (1998) - historic centre
* Beffrois de Belgique et de France (1999, 2005) * 20 (Aire-sur-la-Lys, Armentières, Arras,, Bailleul, Bergues, Béthune, Boulogne-sur-Mer, Calais, Cambrai, Comines, Douai, Dunkerque (Dunkirk), Gravelines,Hesdin,Lille, Loos, Abbeville, Amiens, Doullens, Lucheux, Rue, St Riquier (belfries of Northern France and Picardie - and Belgium)
* Juridiction de Saint-Émilion (1999)
* Val de Loire entre Sully-sur-Loire et Chalonnes (2000) The Loire Valley between Sully and Chalonnes
* Provins, ville de foire médiévale (2001) medieval fair town
* Le Havre, la ville reconstruite par Auguste Perret (2005) - the rebuilt city centre

The weekend of 7-8 October 2006 sees the 21st Oyster Festival (”Foire aux Huîtres“) at Dunkerque (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais). There will be a huge marquee on the Avenue de ‘Université in the commercial port (see map) where you can taste oysters and other regional foods to the accompaniment of music and street theatre - free entrance and undercover in case the weather turns. (Interestingly the English language version of the local tourist office site does not mention the Oyster festival, but instead features a Beer & Food festival on another date - sounds a bit like stereotyping - I do know Frenchmen who hate oysters and Englishmen who don’t drink beer!)
Dunkerque is probably one of those towns that most of us avoid, largely because the approach to the Norfolk Line ferry terminal (several kilometres to the west) or from the A16 autoroute from Calais presents an unappetising image of a seriously industrial town. However, the town centre and port have its attractions, much arising from a strong maritime history (before 1940).
Along with other medieval towns in the region it boasts 2 impressive belfries, and together with another 21 in northern France and 32 in Belgium they are recognised as a joint UNESCO World Heritage Site” Built between the 11th and 17th centuries, the belfries showcase the Roman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles of architecture. Originally, a belfry was “erected as a sign of communal independence obtained by charter, and as the very symbol of freedom. Compared to the keep (symbol of the seigneurs, i.e. feudal lord) and to the bell-tower (symbol of the Church), the belfry, the third tower in the urban landscape, symbolizes the power of the aldermen. Over the centuries, they came to represent the influence and wealth of the towns.”
The Belfy at the Hotel-de-Ville in Dunkerque. For more info on Dunkerque (Dunkirk)see www.ot-dunkerque.fr
For a full list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in France CLICK HERE

From the autumn of 2007 when the second section of the new high-speed rail link that runs from just south of Gravesend to London St Pancras opens, there will be a new international station at EBBSFLEET for Eurostar just off the M25 and A2 near Bluewater and Dartford , which will provide high speed services to Lille in 1h10 and Paris in 2h05. With 9000 parking spaces this promises to provide a good departure point for those who do not live in Central London and makes flying from London in these times of lengthy security delays quite unattractive.

There will be another “International” station at Stratford in East London which will open later, and Ashford International will still be a stop for some trains. When the new sections are completed a full 20 minutes will be cut from the current journey time from Central London to Lille and Paris. The current best time from London (Waterloo) to Paris (Gare du Nord) is 2h35 and to Lille 1h40,
Lille will become even more important in the network as it provides high-speed train TGV connections to many destinations in France without having to change stations in Paris - and of course Eurostar run some services direct from the UK to Avignon and the French Alpes.
For more info see www.eurostar.com/

Cabernet Sauvignon (red)

One of the three most widely seen varieties both in France and across the world. Its French home is the fine wine lands of the Medoc and Graves in Bordeaux , where it is generally blended with other varieties such as Merlot. Cabernet Sauvignon is very reliable for ageing, more often improving into a truly great wine than any other single varietal. With age, it’s distinctive blackcurrant aroma can develop bouquet nuances of cedar, violets, leather, or cigar box and its typically tannic edge may soften and smooth considerably. It is also grown across the south of the country in the Languedoc producing single varietal wines or again blended. The variety is renowned for it structure, longevity (if of sufficient quality) and for its ability to demonstrate “terroir” characteristics. It has a particular affinity with oak and offers flavours of blackcurrants.

Cabernet Sauvignon the noble red grape producing rich, blackcurrant-loaded red wines - other keywords include capsicum, cedar, vanilla and coffee!

CABERNET SAUVIGNON offers a wide range of aromas and flavours. It tends
towards herbaceousness when not fully ripe with capsicum and grassy undertones, but
as it ripens it develops flavours of blackcurrant. It goes well with oak which lends secondary characters with a range of vanilla, cedar, sandalwood,tobacco, coffee, musk and spicy notes.
Best with roast red meats, mature hard cheeses
Cabernet Sauvignon: grown in Bordeaux , Loire , Languedoc -Rousillon, Bergerac, Buzet, Marmandais, Frontonnais, Gaillac, Madiran and Vins de Pays.

On 8th October 2006 the village of Odenas (69 Rhône,Rhône-Alpes - see map) celebrates a concoction called “Paradis” a sweet blend of 50% grape juice and 50% unfinished nouveau wine made from the local Beaujolais grape - Gamay.
Centred around old traditions of horse-drawn wagons and old wine presses in the middle of the Brouilly vineyards, the festivities start at midday and last into the night, accompanied by music and dancing.
I have enough trouble appreciating Beaujolais Nouveau which is often such a disappointment, so this brew sounds quite bizarre - but who knows in the right atmosphere with jovial French company it could be fun.
Brouilly is to my mind one of the better Beaujolais appellations - as it is a “cru” recognised as a specific area which produces wines of character and quality. The basic wine is just “Beaujolais AC” which can come from anywhere within the region; Beaujolais-Villages AC is a higher quality from any of the named villages, whilst the likes of Brouilly, Moulin à Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, Regnié are restricted to specific village areas. Brouilly is distinctive for its hill - Mont Brouilly, and there is a separate appellation for Côte de Brouilly AC for those wines made from vines grown higher up the slopes of the “mountain” - and these tend to have rather more mineral character and depth than the usually juicy Brouilly.

Recommended producers - Paul Beaudet a respected negociant who stocks a great range of Beaujolais wines in their winery at Pontanevaux (71 Saone et Loire, Bourgogne - see map) including Domaine de Chardignon Côte de Brouilly AC. Paul Beaudet wines are available in the UK from Stevens Garnier, who have a shop in Oxford also from - e.g. Beaujolais-Villages 2005 Chateau de Maladrets (just £4.79)

The new A85 autoroute runs for 140 miles through the heart of the Loire Valley vineyards and joins the Centre vineyards and the A71 autoroute at Vierzon west to Angers where it connects with the A11 (on to Nantes) via Touraine (and Tours and the A10 autoroute), Cheverny, Bourgeuil, Saumur and Anjou. Eventually it is planned that the A85 will extend south and east from Vierzon and Bourges to Nevers and Chalon-sur-Saone!
Various sections of the route are finished but the whole stretch will not be completed until Summer 2008.
From the East at Vierzon, the motorway is complete to St Aignan. It is then a bit patchy westwards to Tours - using sections of the new autoroute or the old N79 road. The stretch from west of Langeais west to Angers is complete.
When complete this offers drivers from central, southwest and western France an improved choices of routes, and in conjunction with the new A28 allows you to avoid Paris completely in reaching the Channel ports - whether it be Caen, Le Havre, Dieppe, Boulogne, Calais or Dunkerque.
For more info see www.cofiroute.fr
I am still trying to find out the name of the new Autoroute - e.g. the A6 south to Provence is the “Autoroute du Soleil”, the A77 is the” Autoroute des Arbres” (trees).