FrenchDuck UK - Latest

Clamecy (89 Nièvre, Bourgogne - see map) is in many ways a very typical small provincial french town - and quite delightful - except that it when they choose to dig up the whole of the town centre to pedestrianise it! The French approach to road works seems to be to virtually close the town by attacking every street in the “Grand Projet Municipale” making it almost impossible to drive or even walk during the work.
However, I am sure the disruption we witnessed in the Spring has now passed, and the town is improved by the scheme.
It is on a Saturday morning market in such a town that you know you are in France - the market stalls thronging the centre of the town down narrow streets, the quality of the produce, the artfully displayed vegetables and fruit, the smell of the roasting chickens and the sheer hubbub of the locals meeting, talking, haggling and buying, the café tables on the pavement - all go to make it an enjoyable experience. We always buy some local cheese or charcuterie for our lunch as a memento of the visit.
Clamecy has all that on a Saturday morning - indeed it has a rue du Grand Marché and rue du Petit Marché which illustrate what an important part the market plays in local life.The rivers Beuvron and Yonne together with the Nivernais canal provide the town with a pleasant air of purpose and importance.
You are in northern Burgundy here so the wines are not always exciting - except for Chablis some 30-odd miles to the north east. The reds tend to be a bit thin for my liking - the local wine is a Vin de Pays Coteaux du Tannay - some decent Chardonnay is available from Chablis producer Jean-Marc Brocard.
The Canal meanders north towards Auxerre, and following the minor roads alongside the canal is delightful with some great places for that picnic. Take a detour into the village of Chateau Mailly for some great views of the valley from the top.
For more info see www.vaux-yonne.com