Latest updates on France, French Wine, Food, Travel, Holidays and Events
FrenchDuck UK - Latest
If you happen to be in Paris on Sunday 25 June 2006 you can catch a superb “foodie” event called the “Le Grand Fooding d’Eté“. This is a great opportunity at very modest cost (€5 to charity) to enjoy a giant communal picnic (from 6pm -10pm) with dishes prepared by celebrity French chefs (including from the Paris Ritz and Le Chateaubriand) and accompanied by the Cabernet d’Anjou wines of Domaine Leduc-Frouin amongst others. Le GrandFooding is to be held in the 4th Arondissement in Paris at Village Saint Paul - rue des Jardins Saint Paul, 75004 Paris.
(see map)
Le Grand Fooding is also held in Marseille (18 June), Montpellier (11 June) and Lyon (4 June) - similar format but using local chefs - see http://lefooding.com
The Cabernet d’Anjou is a sweeter wine made from Cabernet Franc full of rapsberry, strawberry, apricot and peach flavours - an ideal summer wine, and also great with food - it shows a depth and complexity which is amazing, and despite being sweetish this does not detract from the wine in any sense - try it with food (especially spicy, oriental food) and you will be surprised.
Antoine Leduc’s 2005 Cabernet d’Anjou won a gold medal in the 2006 Loire Valley wine competition in France - i.e. voted best by his peers! See the new Leduc-Frouin website
This coming weekend (3-4 June 2006) France celebrates the humble “bicyclette” more often referred to as the “velo” (hence velodrome). This means various events, family rides, races, exhibitions across France - a country which takes cycling seriously.
Of course, it is best known for the annual 3-week Tour de France, when many French people tolerate huge inconvenience as main roads and town centres are closed for hours to allow the race and the accompanying “caravan” of commercial sponsors, officials and journalists to pass through - not forgetting the tarmac gang which goes on ahead to fill in any recent potholes; the gendarmerie who motorcycle ahead and behind to ensure nothing and no-one gets in the way of the race; and the army of litter collectors who do a great job clearing up every kilometer after the race.
But this passion for cycling is not confined to the young men (and women) with athletic prowess, lean bodies and strangely pale torsos - the lycra is often seen adorning (or constraining) much less pretty and young French bodies - there is a sizeable contingent of the elderly and overweight who do not hesitate to get on two wheels.
It should be applauded really, as France often seems better geared up to promote the use of bikes in town with cycleways and lanes - reducing pollution and promoting healthy living.
So wherever you are in France this weekend look out for local cycling events - for example in Créon (33 Gironde, Aquitaine),
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
Fronton (previously known as the Cotes du Frontonnais) is an intriguing and little known appellation in South West France (between Montauban and Toulouse, based on the small town of Fronton (31 Haut-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees). Its main claim to fame is its unique use of the local NEGRETTE grape which tends to give its wines a rich raspberry/strawberry character.
(NEGRETTE - The distinctive local variety of Gaillac and Fronton) producing wines with a wonderful perfumed aroma and delicate strawberry flavour; at its best when young.)
We first discovered the appellation through its rosé wines, which are superb - the most famous example probably being those of Chateau Bellevue-la-Foret..
However there are some increasingly good red wines (no white under the Appellation) - improving because the average age of the vines is increasing, which tends to give more depth of character and flavour. This is an interesting phenomenon which we’ve also seen in the Cotes Roannaises. Newly developing vineyards established in the 70s tended to produce pleasant, but light wines. 30 or so years later they can produce surprisingly good blockbusters.
At Allez Vins! we featured the excellent wines of Chateau Boissel. Our local wine specialist (Dorjes Wine Club) is now stocking the wines of Chateau Plaisance including his “tip top” rosé at £5.99 a bottle!
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
A proper French confrontation is envisaged over plans to drive a new autoroute connection around Bordeaux through the vineyards of Margaux. One of the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations (probably with a fair amount of political clout) could be seriously blighted by both concrete and fuel emissions. Three of the five proposed routes will either cut the Margaux appellation area in two or go around it. Other appellations that could be affected under the proposal include the Medoc, Haut Medoc, Listrac-Medoc, Moulis, Cotes de Blaye and Cotes de Bourg.
True, Bordeaux can be a bit of a bottleneck on the route down the Atlantic coast towards the Spanish border, although recent work on the major bridge over the Garonne (Pont de l’Aquitaine) appears to have eased some of the problems of recent years.
Margaux is the most southerly of the major appellations on the Medoc - i.e. the west bank of the Gironde - and hence closer to the city of Bordeaux and where the Garonne and Dordogne meet. Hence the river crossing here will be the narrowest.Margaux includes 21 of the Medoc’s 60 Cru Classes including the prestigious first-growth Chateau Margaux. This is a classy wine area - no co-operative here! The wines tend to be very rich and long-lasting.
Oddbins has a small selection of Margaux including Château Pontet-Chappaz (Expressive aromas of red fruits, spices and mellow oak on the nose. On the palate the wine is mouthfilling and silky with lingering tannins) for £16.49
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
St Nectaire is one of those french delights which sounds very familiar, but it was a surprise to find that it comes from the Massif Central - indeed from the village of St Nectaire (63 Puy-de-Dome, Auvergne) south of Clermont-Ferrand.
The French are proud of their local produce and celebrate with festivals and competitions - and even “knighthoods” to protect and promote the products. In truth these are predominantly modern creations probably designed as a marketing ploy, but nevertheless they impart a certain ceremony and pomposity - and make for good entertainment. And besides, why not promote something which is special and unique to an area - and shout its virtues.
St Nectaire celebrates with a 2-day festival on 10 & 11 June 2006 when the village hosts numerous events including a gastronomic market and a competition for the best cheese.
(See www.ville-saint-nectaire.fr/)
St Nectaire certainly falls into the “smelly cheese” category - a softish textured round unpasteurised cow’s mike cheese from Salers cows, which is matured for 6-8 weeks to develop its distinctive smell and complexity of taste - and it acquires a bloomy rind displaying white, yellow and red mould. The best are “fermier” - i.e. made in a proper dairy on the farm, although it is also produced on a more industrial scale for the supermarkets.
Cheesemaker Paul Dischamp has a good website showing the production process at www.saintnectaire.com/
For a really useful and comprehensive guide to French Cheese see the DK Eyewitness Guide to French Cheeses
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
Now that does sound mouth-watering - Fete de la Framboise at Conceze (19 Correze, Limousin). in the quiet countryside north of Perigueux and Brive in what is known as the “Pays de Pompadour” - a rich fruit-growing area also famous for its horse racing.
We stayed in the region several years ago, and enjoyed its quiet gentle tranquility, The area is the setting for the novels of Claude Michelet Firelight and Woodsmoke
The area is promoted as being a natural paradise - quiet and peaceful with few large cities and a rich tapestry of unspoiled countryisde, hills, forests, lakes and river valleys - ideal for walking and cycling - and it is one of those areas you can get quite lost in - and realise how big France is.
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
Saturday 3rd June to Monday 5th June the town of Chalon-sur-Saone (71 Saone et Loire, Burgundy) welcomes nearly 100 hot air balloons and their teams. Each team is based in a nearby winegrowers house (tough job but someone has to do it!) and there are a total of five flights (weather permitting) over the three days.
The schedule is :-
Saturday 3rd June 0630 from the Prairie Saint Nicolas just outside Chalon-sur-Saone.
Saturday evening has flights from the villages hosting the balloon teams. This will mean that the whole area around the Cote Challonaise will be studded with colour.
Sunday 4th June 0630 from the Prairie Saint Nicolas. This is the flight that will feature the main prizes, see below.
Sunday 4th June 1830 - 1900. Mass take off from the Prairie Saint Nicolas
Monday 5th June (Bank Holiday here) 0630 from the Prairie Saint Nicolas.
The programme is listing 98 balloons of all shapes and sizes. As always there will be a large British contingent with Cameron balloons well represented. Don Cameron is piloting City of Bristol (very apt) with colleague David Littlewood piloting City of Bath. Annonay 1783 recalls the first balloon flight ever made by the Montgolfier brothers and is piloted by Roland de Montgolfier (could there be a link there??). On the fun front the shapes include a cockerel, bagpipes (piloted by Muir Moffat so there could be a Scottish link there), a lorry (?) Lion head and something entitled “Tomorrow Morning”. Whether the Jaguar piloted by Jim Howard is a car or a big cat is not stated and as for the intriguingly named “Special shape” from Spirit Balloons of Rutland - well, only time will tell.
On the Sunday the prairie is given over to a fairground atmosphere with all sorts of activities. There’s live music, food stalls, things for the kids, exhibitions of balloon manufacturers Chaize & Camerons and how to tell the weather from Meteo France! The fun starts at 1400 well prior to the evening flight.
To make the best of the trip we’d suggest a leisurely breakfast at a good local B&B (see the website www.bandb-burgundy.com), a drive into Chalon to visit the Sunday morning market and stock up with a picnic, or alternatively, stop for lunch at one of the many restaurants on rue Strasbourg, on the Isle St Laurent. Stroll gently down to the Prairie and claim your place! Let those who wish to, be keen and active and work off all their excess energy and those who don’t, just relax!
If you want to get up for the early flights, they can send you on your way with copious amounts of coffee (or tea!) and then go back for breakfast later. Or, with a little notice, they can organise a breakfast picnic for you to take with you, if you’d prefer!
Other attraction around that time include an open doors day in one of the winemakers in the nearby village of Buxy on Saturday 3rd June (see http://www.bourgogne.cybercommunes.com).
For further info please don’t hesitate to contact John & Carolyn Scallan at bookings@bandb-burgundy.com or see their website at www.bandb-burgundy.com
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
When we started our wine business in 1987 we had less than a dozen wines on our list - but it did feature Alsace wines from Emile Boeckel in Mittelbergheim (67 Bas Rhin, Alsace) - a traditional independent winemaker who has made some stunning wines - see www.boeckel-alsace.com/
The main cellars run underneath the impossibly quaint house in the picturesque village north of Colmar. We enjoyed one of our first serious tastings on a cold wet March morning in 1988 and were generously entertained and educated by Emile himself.
I have always enjoyed Alsace wines - but they are notoriously difficult to sell in the UK - known in the trade as the “wine merchant’s wine”. Perhaps its the germanic bottle shape, names and gothic lettering which dissuades customers - but these are so different from the German wines just the other side of the Rhine river. They are dry and crisp for the most part, with an extraordinary depth of flavour. The Riesling is probably shown at its best in Alsace, with steely mineral character unmatched elsewhere.
Gewurztraminer is also an Alsace speciality - so very different from the Riesliing - perfumed, aromatic and spicy - a bit of an acquired taste but such a contrast to the normal run of Chardonnay and Sauvignon - excellent with spicy food - and also as a Vendange Tardive - a late harvest dessert wine with such intensity.
Alsace is also unique in France in allowing/requiring the grape variety to be on the label as part of the appellation - so you’ll find Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Tokay/Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc,Sylvaner, Muscat and Pinot Noir. There is also the “Edlezwicker” which is a blend of grape varieties - seldom very exciting.
Alsace also has its own Grand Cru - e.g. Boeckel has a Gewurztraminer Zotzenberg Grand Cru - which implies that the grapes come from a specified plot of land officially recognised as consistently producing top class wines - usually parts of well-drained hillsides with good aspect to the sun.
One wine we had great success with was the Crémant d’Alsace - a sparkling wine made from Pinot Blanc.
UK stockist for Boeckel wines is Sandhams Wine Merchants in Caistor, Lincs
However, one problem with Alsace wines is that other than Edelzwicker prices start quite high (usually about £5.99 for a decent bottle), despite the area having a large number of co-operative cellars - however this is one region where some of the best wines come from Co-operatives, e,g, Pfaffenheim
For more on Alsace wines see www.vinsalsace.com
The region is well worth visiting, despite being something off the beaten track for most of the rest of France - great landscapes, pretty villages, the Rhine Valley and the Vosges mountains - and plenty of vineyards to visit! Despite being relatively far north the region enjoys one of the highest numbers of sunny days in France!
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
Our friends John & Carolyn Scallan who run a classy Chambre d’Hote (sounds so much better than a B&B) at www.bandb-burgundy.com have provided us with an excellent introduction to the wines of the Jura, a less well-travelled area of France and one where the wines and grape varieties are even less well-known. To get this sort of insight from people who have the opportunity to get to know the area and its wines so well is worth a lot.
“Now”, in the words of a famous TV programme of yesteryear, “for something completely different”. Wines of the Jura. There will be those who think “They’ve gone barmy. Jura makes excellent Malt Whiskies but wine???” Trust us. The Jurassian wines are, in our opinion, a virtually undiscovered gem. The whole production of the areas vineyards amounts to just less than 1% of the French annual wine production and that means that for the most part even the French remain blissfully unaware of the regions produce.
The Jura has three grape varieties that are grown nowhere else in France. Trousseau and Poulsard (or Ploussard if you’re in the village of Pupillin) produces grapes for red wines, whilst the Savagnin produces grapes for whites and the regions speciality wine, Vin Jaune.
Cotes du Jura is the regions standard. The white is made from the ubiquitous Chardonnay but tastes as unlike a Chablis as you can get. Here you start finding out that Jura wines are different. This wine should be drunk cool, but not cold. Approx 30 minutes in the fridge is enough. L’Etoile (approx 10 miles from here) is high on the list of best areas. The Chateaux at Quintigny, L’Etoile or Arlay will each supply you a tasting with pleasure. The red is made predominantly of the Pinot Noir grape with an addition of Poulsard to give a distinctive colour and slightly lighter body. There is some Pinot Noir made on it’s own and the best we have found is from Chevassu’s vineyard at Menetru Le Vignoble. This can be a strong wine in years of serious sunshine, e.g. 2003 but is also an easy going very fruity wine in other years. Try his 2004, the 2003’s all gone.
Poulsard and Trousseau both produce red wines although in years without a huge amount of sun these reds are more like Rosés they are that pale. Tending to be on the “thin” side they lack the full bodied power of Bordeaux or some Burgundies but are full of flavour and are best kept for about five years, at which point the colour can change again, especially in the Poulsard, to an almost onion skin hue. It is the Savagnin (not Sauvignan) which is the true king of Jura grapes. Blended with Chardonnay in the Caveau des Jacobins Saint Avoye wine it produces a distinctive tasting wine that just hints at the flavours to come. A 100% Savagnin is a wine full of character and strength, again drunk almost at room temperature most people are taken unawares by it’s taste and richness. This wine can easily be kept for 10 years or more, rare in a white wine. Now we get to the masterpiece, the Vin Jaune, the best of which is labelled Chateau-Chalon. Aged for at least 6 years 3 months in oak barrels (bought second hand from Burgundy!) this wine is never topped up to replace the wine that evaporates during this period. As a result the wine ages under a protective layer of yeast which imparts a taste not dissimilar to that of a dry sherry. Again drunk at room temperature the wine comes as a shock to those not expecting something completely different and as a result many don’t like it. We’ve persevered, it was hell but definitely worth it. Served with Comté cheese or smoked sausage the wine takes on yet another flavour and it is a feature in the cooking of many fine recipes. Not cheap by any stretch and sold uniquely in 62cl bottles called “Clavelins” it can keep for up to 100 years. It should be opened at least 12 hours before drinking and once opened will keep for about two months with the cork replaced (but not in the fridge!).
The specialist wines from the Jura are “Cremant du Jura” the local sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes. This is at it’s best from Chevassu’s with a slight taste of pineapple cubes (!!!!) but we really advise against “Vin Fou” from Henri Maire, not good at all. Served chilled as an aperitif or dessert wine it is stunning value for money and a really good wine. Macvin is not a wine served at French MacDonalds as some have thought but a fortified wine made by mixing grape juice and Marc du Jura, the spirit made from the pips, skins & stalks of the grapes. Again served as an aperitif or dessert wine. For a real treat try the Vin de Paille. This is made from grapes which have been left to dry for three months in lofts so that they lose 80% of their moisture. The resulting juice is very sweet and smooth. It takes 100 kgs of grapes to make 18 litres of wine which is why it is fearsomely expensive at about 15 Euros, or more for a half bottle! (It is never sold in whole bottles). Serve chilled (or room temperature) as a special occasion wine. We had some last year with the Christmas Pud - superb.
Should you wish we can arrange for tastings at various vignerons cellars. The Caveau des Jacobins is open daily but Chevassu’s needs an appointment (it’s well worth it).
For more info on Jura wines see www.jura-vins.com/
A good UK stockist of these wines is Devigne Wines (Nationwide mail order)
www.bandb-burgundy.com offers excellent B&B with added wine knowledge and advice!!
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
Bergerac on the River Dordogne is the capital of the Dordogne departement.
It was a centre for tobacco production, and is an important wine centre. The appellations of Bergerac, Saussignac, Montravel, Pecharmant and Monbazillac are all near the town on both sides of the river
See location map of Bergerac
Amongst the vineyards and vignerons we can thoroughly recommend are Guy Cuisset at Chateau Grinou (Bergerac and Saussignac wines) and Fabrice Feytout at Chateau Beauportail (Pecharmant wines)
A little aside from our main focus on France, we have come across a good UK producer of Duck products - www.somersetducks.co.uk!
We are great enthusiasts for duck, especially from South West France and it reguarly features on our menus when in France - magret de canard (fattened duck breast) , confit (conserved), stews etc etc. And although readily available in the big supermarkets (grandes surfaces) in France, those bought at the local market always seem to have more flavour. We usually bring back a supply of magret de canard for the freezer, and whenever it’s on the table we tend to think of France.
Somerset Ducks produce a wide range of duck products down on their farm near Taunton in Somerset - and sell direct to the public through local farmers markets and some of the bigger Shows such as Romsey and the Three Counties Show (Malvern). They also sell by mail order/internet - see www.somersetducks.co.uk.
Their speciality food includes boned, stuffed and cooked duck; two highly recommended stuffings:- apricot with peppers and celery; and apple cider with honey - not to forget the duck sausages!
For authentic duck, goose and other South West French recipes see Goose Fat and Garlic: Country Recipes from South-West France
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
Everyone is recommending Provence at the moment - the latest being Nigel Horne in the Telegraph who argues that this is the best time of year to go (mid-May to mid-June) before the heat gets excessive, before villa prices become extortionate, and before the 3 of the red/pink icons of the region go past their best - cherries, poppies and Provence rosé wines!
I confess to being a cherry addict - we stayed at a gite in South West France in late May/early June which had its own cherry tree, with the owner telling us to help ourselves - I did find out that you can have too much of a good thing! But the range of cherries available in France is wonderful - ranging in colour from an almost peachy pink to deepest crimson in colour, and gloriously gently sweet to ones with a crisper bite and a touch of acidity. In the markets you will see them under different names including burlat, bigaroux, cerise - ideal by themselves but also an essential element of Clafoutis (a sort of cooked cherry gateau) - and provided it is not oversweetened and freshly prepared and does not drown the meat, cherry sauce is a superb accompaniment to roast duck.
We tend to think of Poppies as a northern French phenomenon, echoing the battlefields of Flanders and Picardy - but in the south the poppies seem to acquire another dimension of colour, especially when set in a field against the backdrop of the dramatic Alpilles mountains near Les Baux de Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) - even the most basic camera can capture great views! (NEW - see Map)
As for Provence Rosé wines, almost any of them will be enjoyable under a southern summer sun, but many will pale on a March day in Manchester. The best offer some really serious and enjoyable tasting with real depth of flavour and structure from the red grape varieties used - mainly Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault et Cabernet Sauvignon. These wines deserve to be taken more seriously at any time of the year and challenge the rather flippant image of the appellation - and sometimes the best are not even in the skittle-shaped tradtional bottle, which I have always thought of as a bit gimmicky.
One of the best we know is from Mas Sainte Berthe - in the UK Oddbins has an excellent example in their Côtes de Provence Rosé Château Cavalier. One thing to remember though is to serve them just slightly chilled - too cold and none of the aromas and flavours will evolve to enhance your drinking pleasure.
Another stockist of Provence rosé wines is Devigne Wines for mail order
Nigel Horne is also spot on in recommending an early season visit to the impressive hill-top town of Gordes(84 Vaucluse, Provence) - an interesting medieval village with narrow alleyways and stunning view - and plenty of places to eat lunch to suit most pockets - but avoid in high summer when it is overwhelmed by coaches and tourists! It is also something of a mecca for artists taking advantage of the Provencal light and magnificent views - so there are plenty of galleries to escape into! The only thing you might miss by going early is the glorious sight of the lavender in full bloom! - see http://www.gordes-village.com
Montelimar (26 Drome, Rhone-Alpes)is best known for the production of Nougat - the rather exotic confection made from sugar, Provencal honey, egg white, vanilla, roasted almonds,and pistachios. There is even an “Appellation Controllée” for Montelimar Nougat which specifies the percentage of almonds and honey which makes this nougat distinctive.
However on 25 May 2006 the town will celebrate aromatic plants in all their guises, with Garlic (l’Ail) taking the place of honour. The local producers even have their own “Guild” - the Confrérie de l’Ail de la Drôme.!
With displays and demonstrations, there will also be a free market with stalls showing and selling honey, lavender, garlic, tapenade, onion jam, garlic sauce, aubergine caviar., fruit, local goats cheese (picadon) - and I guess nougat!
See www.montelimar-tourisme.com
Montelimar is also regarded as one of the gateways to Provence, and if you are making the long journey down the A7 (Autoroute du Soleil) from the north, Montelimar does tend to mark the beginning of the hot sunny and bright climes of Provence and southern France. But for that reason most of us keep on the autoroute without detouring into the town, nor the neighbouring Ardeche region for its dramatic valleys and canyons - ideal for hiking, canoeing and other less sedentary sports.
Also known as the French “Green Venice” (Venise Verte) the Poitou Charentes region (north of Bordeaux, south of the Loire, by the Atlantic is another of those under-valued regions, which can be well worth visitng. Other than Cognac, it is not particularly well-endowed with fine vineyards, although the local white wines are often very palateable - the one exception being the excellent wines of Haut Poitou (especially Sauvignon) - although these wines in the north of the region tend to be an extension of the Loire vineyards.
Cognac of course is well worth a visit, with an attractive location on the banks of the Charente river. However, it is rather dominated by the big Cognac houses (Martell, Hennessy, Remy-Martin etc) - and there are plenty of smaller distilleries throughout the region which can provide a good introduction to the mysteries and joys of fine brandy. - e.g. Deau near Gemozac, which in addition to a tour of the cellars and a tasting offers a small museum and an impressive Botanical garden!!
Oddbins has a selection of decent Cognac, including an interesting Grande Champagne Cognac Reserve from Paul Ferrand.
The Poitou-Charentes region is sliced through by rivers such as the Charente and offers great opportunities for walking and cycling - see www.poitou-charentes-vacances.com Poitou-Charentes has endless signposted footpaths and cyclepaths by the Atlantic Ocean, along rivers, across nature reserves, marshes such as the Marais Poitevin and through pretty hamlets..The website has walking and cycling guides to download.
La Rochelle is an impressive fortified harbour town with some good beaches within easy reach - and the islands of Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oleron are both very attractive with lots of sandy beaches and flat walking of cycling - not to mention the very best and freshest seafood.
Several low-cost airlines fly direct to La Rochelle and Poitiers - see www.frenchduck.co.uk
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
Isle-sur-Sorgues (84 Vaucluse, Provence) keeps featuring in these pages by happenstance recently, and now the Indpendent has a Provence fest on its travel and food pages. Firstly Simon Calder takes a bike ride from Avignon to Orange via Isle-sur-Sorgues and Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Oddbins has a decent collection of Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines - big meaty numbers that are the best in the southern Rhone.)
The there is The Travellers Guide to the Flavours of Provence which suggests a nice little restaurant for a lazy lunch in Isle-sur-Sorgues and market stalls selling little honey sweets, olives and herbs. However, St Remy-de-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) is recommended as a foodie magnet with its Wednesday and Saturday markets and its experimental artisan bakery Le Petit Duc and its Master Chocolatier - www.chocolat-durand.com/!! The town is well worth a visit anyway, with its tree-lined boulevards and real Provencal feel. Just a few miles south over the impressive Alpilles mountains you’ll find Les Baux de Provence and the excellent wines (red, white and rosé) olives, olive oil and tapenade of one of our favourite vineyards - Mas Sainte Berthe.
The Independent also has an Avignon and Provence city guide, a guide to outdoor activities and family day trips in the area,and an article on Paul Cezanne and his home town of Aix-en-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) as it celebrates the centenary of his death.
For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel try our SEARCH feature
Also see our calendar of events in France
